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  1. I'm making a western cartridge belt, about 8 oz with 3 oz liner. I sewed it up but when I bent it into a circle (like when being worn) there are a few wrinkles on the liner from being crunched. I'm wondering what to do. 1. Glue liner to main belt. 2. Wet belt and wrap around a barrel and let the liner dry and conform to shape. 3. Something else. 4. Nothing, with time the liner evens out? And...if I use glue, what glue? Tandy Leather weld? It is water based- not sure it is waterproof?
  2. Repetitive leather stamping

    Well, not to reply to my own question but I figure we are sharing ideas. I took a pair of dial calipers and set the spacing and used the sharp points to mark out-lightly- both the spacing between stamp marks and the distance of the stamp from the grooved line. I then put the corner of the stamp over the mark which then disappears when the stamp is hit. That's about the best I have come up with so far. My idea about clamping a ruler had troubles. You clamp at both ends but the middle is unsupported and the leather can bend in and out. I did a row with the clamped ruler and when I took the ruler off the marks were bowed away from the grooved line. Some stamps are easier to use. An arc or crescent has two points and you can line them up pretty good. A triangle with a flat base, any little error in any direction is very noticeable. I may try that pencil idea. As recommended, I'm practicing on scrap pieces.
  3. Hi, I'm making a an old west cartridge belts. These often have a line of stitching, then a groove, then a stamp mark that is repeated all along the edge. I'm using Tandy stamps. It requires some skill in using these stamps. One stamp may be higher or lower (along the edge) from the others, or the spacing between the stamps could be off. Then the stamp itself might be slanted left or right. A lot to go wrong. I epoxy glued a popsicle stick on the shaft at right angles to the mark. That helps me in not slanting the marks left or right. I thought maybe I'd clamp down a straight edge to keep all the stamp marks even on an up and down along the edge and maybe mark the guid to keep the spacing even. I'm sort of new at this. How do the rest of you do this type of stamping? Just eyeball or do you use some sort of guide?
  4. Cartridge Belt Liner

    Pretty heavy, I'd say about 9 oz give or take 1 oz in either direction. BUT this is for real world use so I want something substantial.
  5. I want to make a western style cartridge belt with sewn on bullet loops and to stiffen the belt a little I thought a liner would be a good idea. My problem is a similar thickness of leather would make the belt too thick. Suede seems to pick up dirt and dust. I think what I need is just a lighter weight oak tanned leather. Any suggestions appreciated.
  6. Thoughts on Western Holsters

    Thanks, will check them out
  7. I have just finished a buscadero type holster. To date I've made two Mexican double loop holsters, two California types, and one Tom Three Person's style. I thought I'd throw out some thoughts with the idea of some suggestions as to how I might have done a better job. On the Slim Jim or California type holsters, I made my own fish scale stamp and stamped the whole thing and then added a suede liner. This got the thickness about right. On the Double loops I did not use a liner but the skirt seems to stiffen up the holster. On my last effort, it started out as a Mexican double loop. I glued together two heavy pieces of leather- rough side to rough side but this was actually too much of a good thing. It was so thick that I didn't think I'd ever get the pouch through the loops. I had not yet cut out the loops on the skirt so I ended up turning it into a buscadero style with a band which wrapped around the pouch and then through two up-down slots in the skirt- secured in back with 2 Chicago screws (I lapped the ends over each other. On previous holsters the area around the trigger guard always seemed too tight and so this time I put in a welt. This welt, I think, is a good idea, it adds more room for the trigger guard and more room at the muzzle. One mistake I made was that I should have skived this welt so that I had full thickness in the front- next to the gun but at the back, along the seam, there was no thickness, or very little. If you use two heavy pieces of leather and a welt you end up with an edge about 3/4" thick. I sanded, burnished this until it looked okay but I think if the welt and the edges of the sides were all skived, to reduce the edge- that would be an improvement. In wet forming the holster to the gun, I wrapped up the gun in plastic, foil and plastic- so no water induced rust, but I worked the leather too much. On a lot of modern holsters the leather conforms to the shape of the gun, the cylinder, etc. standing out but on a western holster this doesn't look like the originals, the leather should not be worked around the gun but left rather smooth. Another issue was the bend between the pouch and skirt. The leather wants to wrap around the gun however the wrap should be in the other direction to conform to the body. I have thought about a wood shim, bent somewhat to the body's shape- put though the belt area when forming this part of the holster. This holster I left open on the bottom but on others I sewed a plug, which I think is better. Any comments or suggestions appreciated.
  8. Cartridge Belt Help

    Thanks- that shows the detail I needed. To me, on the buckle strap, when you fold or double over the end after wrapping around the center bar of the buckle, the loop over the main part of the belt goes between that doubled over portion of the buckle strap. This probably strengthen matters because if you pulled on the buckle strap the loop will stop movement before stress is put on the stitches holding the buckle's strap to the main part of the belt. Once again- sorry if I'm getting the terminology mixed up. And- that is a super good looking belt.
  9. Cartridge Belt Help

    I'm planning to make a western cartridge belts. In the front the main belt will fold under itself. I see these with a big loop into which one end of the main belt is run. Unfortunately I can't tell where to attach this big loop? Should it fit between the doubled over end of the buckle strap or be directly attached to the main belt? Any help appreciated.
  10. Gunbelt loops

    I am making a western cartridge belt. I am not sure of the terminology but there is the main belt with the cartridge loops and this doubles over itslef in front with a loop. Then there is the buckle strap with buckle and tongue for the buckle- both sewn in front on the main belt. The buckle strap has a belt loop for the tongue which is identical to a normal dress belt. There is then a second loop for the main belt. This second loop- that is my issue and photos don't show the detail. Is this loop attached to only the main belt, under the buckle strap OR... is it connected to the buckle strap and goes over the main belt. In other words- where do you connect the larger loop? Thanks.
  11. Bleed-proof dye job

    Thanks for the help. What exact Fiebing's dye do you use? On the oil- straight neatsfoot? The top coat- what do you use? The buffing- I have not done that, maybe that is the source of my trouble. Thanks again.
  12. Bleed-proof dye job

    I've made quite a few leather holsters and sheaths. If it is for "show" I'll go ahead and dye the leather but so far the dye always leaks or bleeds if the leather gets wet. I've asked a lot of knowledgeable leather workers who always give the same answers but I don't think they comprehend what I'm talking about. There is having a leather item subjected to a light rain and then there is the "wear every day" knife sheath that gets totally soaked many times and dries while you wear it. So far all I have come up with is a 50/50 wax/neatsfoot oil- which is okay however if I could get a chocolate brown that stood up as well- that would be nice. All help appreciated.
  13. Holster Pouch Formation

    Thanks, I've used some alcohol dyes that really dried out the leather too much.
  14. I'm making a western style holster and I want to form fit the gun to the holster. In the past I have always soaked the leather with water, wrapped the revolver in plastic and put it in the holster. I have so far never had any water get to the gun and rust it however it is always a worry. Someone told me to wet the leather with rubbing alcohol instead of water. Any comments appreciated.