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About DJole

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  • Birthday 02/13/1965

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Tacoma, WA
  • Interests
    Fiddles, books, big trees, leather, swords, and keeping the house intact.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Dark Age and Medieval European inspired designs, pouches and boxes
  • Interested in learning about
    shoe-making, tooling, hand stitching

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. WIP. Wallet with Floral design (but not Sheridan)

    That's some lovely work! I like the curves in the border design, and that asymmetric closing strap looks great!
  2. Library Display

    That's really nice--- for both you and your community! What you display here is the kind of thing that should make a lot of people say, "Hey, I should be able to do that!"
  3. Elbows and Gorget WIP

    That's a nice looking gorget piece there. As a person who wears a gorget (I got stabbed in the throat just last week -- hurray for throat armor!), I like the protection of this one more than your previous one. I envy your use of the machine to stitch all this together! Also, for the elbows to really work, they probably need to be dished if they're going to protect all three points of the elbow. That dishing is what I'm working with on a gorget project of my own: . I'm doing articulating lames -- this is the front. Using the heat gun, and my fingers, I bent the lip of the top lame over. Just like dishing metal, I had to go back and re-work the C-curve of the lame. I still need to go back and fine-tune some flatter spots. But I found the articulation would be better if I could also dish the Kydex: It's a subtle dish, but the lames curve into each other. It sure takes a long time, though! This is where a form would be useful. I know that Kydex can be dished into a deeper bowl shape, but I don't think I want to try doing it by hand!
  4. steps for finishing

    Angelus leather paint is acrylic, so it should act as a resist to any dye you apply over it. The dye should not affect the paint color --but you should test this, of course, using a scrap piece of the same leather as your project. If the results are not what you wanted, then you should do the dye first. For the project below, I didn't use paint--I used the colored dyes first (that white is actually Fiebeing's notorious white dye, which actually worked well for the weathered, old-fashioned look of this project.) The eyebrows and mouth were done with a fine point black Sharpie marker. Then I carefully applied Fiebing's Resolene over the dyed areas (white, red, black and other), let it dry, then used antique black for the rest of the wallet. The antique wiped clean from the resist-covered dyed areas. < Wallet/SamuraiWallet.htm> I used white acrylic paint in another project: <>. But I didn't use antiquing. I think the antique dye should be first, then the paint (since that will cover any dyed areas), then the finish (Resolene or whatever).
  5. Hand sew elastic to leather

    Try safety pins, perhaps? They should lock the elastic in place.
  6. Hand sew elastic to leather

    Assuming that you have already made stitching holes in the leather, you should be able to stretch the elastic then push pins (like for fabric sewing) through both the hole and the elastic to hold it in place. I did this while stitching a cloth liner inside a bag, and I had to find a way to keep it taut while stitching.
  7. Mixing dyes and multicolor pieces

    I am no expert on the chemistry of dyes and dye mixing, so I don't know why your dye is splotching. I look forward to an expert chiming in to explain the problem. In the meantime, perhaps you can try another dye manufacturer. I find that Angelus works just as well as Fiebing's dyes. Maybe Angelus has the dye color that would match what you want-- there is a dark Navy Blue dye available: Dharma Trading has a lot of colors available: <> Or factory direct: <> I use a small paint brush frequently when dying leather. I haven't thinned the dyes out (although I do have a bottle of Angelus Solvent/ dye reducer for this purpose). 2 important things: (1) wipe excess dye off the brush! Don't load the brush with a lot of dye, because once you touch the brush to the leather, suddenly a flood of dye will rush into the leather pores! (2) work from the center of the area to the edge, to avoid dye going past the edge lines. it's not really painting, but more like carefully daubing. As far as intricate dye application, small areas of dye shouldn't appear uneven. Big areas of dye have that problem.
  8. Beginners Leather

    You should get in contact with Ian Atkinson, who lives up in Leeds. He's got a website here: <> His website also has a lot of video instruction about a lot of different topics-- tools, techniques, and materials.
  9. I think this guy won the contest! Did he have a purpose for such a collection, or is it just compulsion?
  10. Radio bucket

    You are certainly right about box stitching being tough to learn, especially the 45 degree miter jointed pieces. It looks like you decided to not use miter joints, and instead used flaps? The stitching looks pretty good, and the red thread looks great here. Looks like a hefty piece that will hold up to abuse in the field! An interesting array of straps on there -- what's the third one for, the one that hooks to the belt behind the back?
  11. Spartan short sword sheath.

    Ah, for some reason I thought it was UNDER the sheath! Woops...
  12. Spartan short sword sheath.

    Nice use of period design motifs, and excellent handwork. As the leaf-shaped blade is wider at the 'waist' than at the hilt, the scabbard sides can't all be sewn up (or else the blade wouldn't go in/come out). Is there a slit on the "top" edge of the scabbard? And finally, Is the scabbard based on a surviving historical piece?
  13. Study in Mushrooms

    Those are great! A very unusual subject matter, and they look great! That's some champignon leatherwork! (heh!)
  14. First attempt at tooling

    Well, it depends on what you are doing. If you are doing long straight lines, or gentle curves, a wide beveler will work. Some are *really wide*. But if you are doing sharp curves, or intricate lines close to each other, a small thin beveler is what you want. And then there are textured bevelers, in different widths. Then there are undercut bevelers, to make a deeper bevel. Then, for very specific patterns, you can get curved bevelers, and even triangle bevelers! I don't have any of these. Just starting out, you need to take the time to learn the basics of how to create a smooth beveled line, how to walk the tool and angle it correctly. Of course, those things only work if you case the leather properly, and if you are using a good quality tooling leather! See the graphic below for a quick overview: So, it makes sense to start out with a "vanilla" beveler which you will likely use most of the time, of medium width, like the one labeled as craftool B-200 shown above (which may not be the current number). The one I started with is a Craftool B203, purchased over 25 years ago. Later on, once I figured that I needed them, then I added the very thin B935, then later on the textured B936. Just this last year, at a sale I picked up the undercut bevelers B892 and B60). But note the key point: I didn't buy those other ones until I decided I needed them for a project.
  15. Working Chaps (Bison)

    Is that part of your range land in the one picture? No wonder you guys get torn up riding through the brush! You need arm chaps, too!