TheCyberwolfe

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About TheCyberwolfe

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  • Birthday 05/31/1972

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    http://www.rogueleather.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    The Great Wet NorthWest

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    SCA gear and archery tack
  1. Some folks like the idea of a contrasting edge color, but using a different color of dye may get odd results due to the way leather soaks up fluids. Edge Coat isn't a dye as such, it's more of a paint, and is designed to stick to the surface rather than soak in. It also dries to a kind of rubbery consistency, and if you have a very steady hand, you might be able to get away with not doing anything else to the edge, so it can save time in production. It also resists wear a little better than a standard edge, so something that's going to get rubbed or bashed around a lot may benefit from it. Belt edges are a good example, since pulling them through the belt loops and through the buckle wears on the edge after a while.
  2. It's true that a skilled craftsman can make even crappy tools work for them, but someone new to the trade like yourself I would really recommend you get a better tool so that later on when you think you're good enough to buy better tools you don't have to re-learn how to do it without compensating for poor quality tools.
  3. I think the general rule seems to be "don't buy leather from Tandy". Every time I go in there, the best hide I can find is still only a low-B grade.
  4. The thing to remember is that the molding process is going to stretch the leather, which will probably distort your tooling. If you're a stickler for straight lines, build solid molds and tool it while it's being formed. If a little stretch here or there isn't going to make a difference on the finished design, then maybe you can tool it first. Your mileage WILL vary, on each and every piece of leather Be sure to test your theories.
  5. You'll probably need a combination of both - that side may not come with a clean straight edge, so you'll need to make one with your trusty rotary cutter and a long straightedge. (I recommend clamping that edge down, I tend to slip on long cuts). After that, those little wooden strap cutters do an amazingly good job for such an inexpensive tool. The trick is making sure you set the thickness of the leather properly at the blade end of the cross-piece so the leather doesn't try to roll up on you.
  6. Weaver Leather has a pretty broad selection of belt blanks if you're doing one-offs or small quantities, and their prices beat Panhandle's - about $10 a belt. Quality is very good - they run it through a strap edger for you, so it just needs a little bit of light sanding before finishing the edges. I've bought three so far in different orders, and they've all been very good. They stamp very well and take dye in evenly. Springfield sells what they call a "Belt Bend" for $159 that's good for between 16-18 belts, which works out to under $10 per belt for materials. It's a Premium grade Hermann Oak.
  7. I went down to Harbor Freight a while back and bought a buffing wheel and a set of sanding drums that range in size from about 1" up to 4" in diameter. They mount right on the arbor and use common sandpaper rolls for refills, so I can use any grit paper I need. It works well for thinning larger sections evenly without excessive tool marks, and the largest drum is pretty good for sanding edges prior to finishing. For strap ends and other small bits I typically use a knife though, since it's right there on the bench vs. going out to the shed where my sander is. As with any leather knife, trick #1 is making sure the skiver is wicked sharp, and then you're better off going for multiple shallow passes rather than a complete skive in one pass.
  8. That's one piece of advice I keep hearing and never quite pay enough attention to: _light coats of dye_. Don't get impatient, and like 'Mutt says, walk away after the first coat and come back tomorrow for the second (if it needs it). Unless, of course, you're using black dye - then you do want to saturate it. But still walk away after that first coat and give it time to soak in.
  9. I would just assume that the darts would always have a tip attached, and make that bottom pocket enclosed. Make loops like on a gun belt for the barrels, and then have a flap that lays over the top sort of like you do with a tool roll. The other option would be to build it with the hinge at the top rather than the side, similar to this screwdriver case I made.
  10. I think I'm with Matt S on this one - while it's nice to be able to make use of the leather you have on-hand, you may be better off just buying the thickness you need for the project rather than trying to split down thicker stock.
  11. The sharpest thing you can get your hands on. After that, it depends on how small an area you need to cut. Denny over at SLC recommends using a straight punch or chisel (or maybe a sharpened flat-blade screwdriver) as a way of avoiding those little fuzzy fibers you sometimes get even with the sharpest knife. Then there's laser cutters...
  12. Then there's the lazy man's solution - the Point 2 Point divider: http://www.garrettwade.com/point-2-point.html Pick the number of holes you want, stretch it out until it covers the distance you want, and voila! No crazy fractions to worry about.
  13. I like to have the fit be just snug before setting - you should feel the cap snap into place and have it snug against the leather. On those longer rivets, as long as the hole isn't too big and you keep things lined up, you'll be OK.
  14. Take a piece of heavy paper or a chunk of manila folder and use it like a washer around the rivet when you're setting it. Pull it out when you're done, and the rivet won't be so tight on the leather and will allow for movement.
  15. Colt's got it - a little soap, dry it, buff it with some carnauba cream. I ran into this with one of my early projects, before I switched to oil-based dyes. Here's a link to that post from my blog. http://www.rogueleather.com/2009/07/trouble-with-dye/