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About TheCyberwolfe

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  • Birthday 05/31/1972

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    The Great Wet NorthWest

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    SCA gear and archery tack

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  1. TheCyberwolfe

    New Prototype Belt Key Holder

    @Retswerb, I had rivets on the small strap pinning the hook down, and that snapped. About a week later the stitching holding the hook on lost grip and started pulling out. I guess the best advice is to use lots of backstitching or tie a really good knot somehow, and don't use too thin a piece for the strap holding the hook down.
  2. TheCyberwolfe

    New Prototype Belt Key Holder

    Made one very similar myself, lasted about a year. I think the solid body clip puts too much stress on the seams and it might be better with a rotating clip. It also dug a hole in my upholstery in the car.
  3. The most-versatile method is to put away the punch and just use a sharp knife. Cut about a zillion 4" straps to practice with, and by the time you run out of practice straps it will be muscle-memory. The technique is to hold the edge of a razor-sharp knife vertically and perpendicular to the edge of the table with your 'off' hand, and then you take the strap in your other hand, place it flat on the table with the side against the edge of the blade, and with a bit of a "swooshing" motion rotate that strap against the blade. Now flip the strap over and repeat. The resulting cuts should give you a nice English point. At the start of this "swooshing" motion, the strap should be touching the blade at an acute angle, and the natural motion of your wrist pulls the strap through in such a way that the angle rotates through and traces the bottom of a Nike "swoosh" emblem, from the tip of the long end through the curve at the front, and eventually all the way trough the leather. When you flip it over and do the other side, the two sharper ends of the curve cuts come together in the middle to make the point. The biggest trick is making sure you start both cuts at the same "longitude" of the strap and use the exact same motion.
  4. TheCyberwolfe

    Airbush dye for leather?

    Airbrush is a great way to control exactly how much dye you use to achieve a certain look, and for doing multi-shaded designs like the "sunburst" effect or to help fine-tune areas around a resist. If you just want the same color over the entire piece, then dip-dye is the way to go for consistency. And because I love to show this bad boy off, I did everything but the white on this with an airbrush.
  5. TheCyberwolfe

    Horizontal Phone Case - - questions

    My own humble submission to the horizontal-carry pantheon: That one has lasted through three phones so far, still wear it daily.
  6. TheCyberwolfe

    Pictures Please? How do you store your hardware?

    I'm currently working off of what used to be my computer desk, but my original plan was to be portable. I never buy more than about a dozen of anything and have it all in a mix of small parts boxes and Altoids tins. That Husky organizer is darn slick. I may have to get one.
  7. TheCyberwolfe

    Note/Bill section for bi-fold wallets

    Well, one layer has to be shorter than the other to allow the wallet to fold, so it's kind of the nature of the beast that final assembly is a pain. If you don't have one, I highly recommend that you get a stitching pony / horse / clam - the clamp really helps hold things stable while you sew and takes a lot of the aggravation out of it. Or you can go "minimalist bi-fold" like this one I made for my brother. Those slots hold 3 or 4 cards in a stack.
  8. TheCyberwolfe

    Clamping edges while gluing up?

    +1 for Binder clips
  9. TheCyberwolfe

    Leather sporran and Atom Wax

    That Leather Balm isn't a finish on it's own, but more of a polish that you apply to the finish. Think of it more as a Kiwi shoe polish in that you apply it, wear or use the item for a while untill it gets a little bedraggled, and then you polish it up again. What you want is a sealer. I would recommend Acrylic Resolene or something in that same category, and then you can apply the Leather Balm on top of that, and then buff it out to a nice shine. The Resolene will seal the dye on the leather and (hopefully) prevent transfer to the wool. I would recommend testing it first - dye some scrap, finish it, and then get a scrap of wool and rub the two together as hard as you can to see just how long it takes to wear through the Resolene. If it takes more than two hours of hard rubbing, then you're in the clear
  10. TheCyberwolfe

    Non Flammable Glue

    From a kitchen hygiene perspective, anything that can't be thrown through the wash has a possibility of becoming the breeding ground for bacteria, so I would be very hesitant to permanently mount leather onto a cast iron pan. I would instead recommend a quilted slip-on or one of the silicone ones. We used to have a really big knife in our camp kitchen that had a bad habit of not getting washed properly before being stuffed back into the scabbard, and when I cut the old scabbard apart to make a template for the replacement, I discovered a layer of mold inside. Ever since then I've been extra-paranoid about washing anything I can't see into.
  11. TheCyberwolfe

    What's going on here?

    I was taught to oil before dye, and I haven't had much problem with edge curl. I don't do a lot of thins stuff, so maybe that's helped me. If that sheep leather reacts like that to surface dye, perhaps a dip-dye method would help.
  12. TheCyberwolfe

    tassel finish stitch

    I would have gone with an "X" stitch rather than the baseball stitch, myself, that would keep both surfaces of the band ends hidden. To do that you'd probably want to sew the band separate and then stuff the tassel into it with some glue though.
  13. I would put resist on the fish and the two high ridges in the border and then antique with Fiebing's paste. ...or maybe find a way to thin out silver paint to put a silvery highlight on the fish. Hmm...
  14. TheCyberwolfe

    How do I get this finish

    Atom Wax or Carnauba Cream, a couple of those sheep wool remnants, and elbow grease. Take picture immediately after complete
  15. TheCyberwolfe

    Gussets On Bag

    In my experience, changing the width of the gusset will not affect the operation of the bag. I can't imagine why they narrowed it - seems to just be a stylistic choice. The taper on the flap is to avoid being squished by the straps, as you suspected. While being able to do the front, back and flap from one piece of leather is impressive, doing it in sections makes it easier to get the piece out of the hide without any blemishes if you don't happen to be working with an A-grade hide. My only suggestion there is to not cut the end that gets sewn on straight across if you can help it - cutting that like a curly brace ( this thing: { ) dresses up the backside, especially if you're not putting on that back pocket. Do a matching curve on the bottom of the front side where it wraps back under, and that'll be snazzy.