TheCyberwolfe

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About TheCyberwolfe

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 05/31/1972

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.rogueleather.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    The Great Wet NorthWest

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    SCA gear and archery tack
  1. Horizontal Phone Case - - questions

    My own humble submission to the horizontal-carry pantheon: http://www.rogueleather.com/2014/03/smartphone-holster/ That one has lasted through three phones so far, still wear it daily.
  2. Pictures Please? How do you store your hardware?

    I'm currently working off of what used to be my computer desk, but my original plan was to be portable. I never buy more than about a dozen of anything and have it all in a mix of small parts boxes and Altoids tins. That Husky organizer is darn slick. I may have to get one.
  3. Note/Bill section for bi-fold wallets

    Well, one layer has to be shorter than the other to allow the wallet to fold, so it's kind of the nature of the beast that final assembly is a pain. If you don't have one, I highly recommend that you get a stitching pony / horse / clam - the clamp really helps hold things stable while you sew and takes a lot of the aggravation out of it. Or you can go "minimalist bi-fold" like this one I made for my brother. Those slots hold 3 or 4 cards in a stack.
  4. Clamping edges while gluing up?

    +1 for Binder clips
  5. Leather sporran and Atom Wax

    That Leather Balm isn't a finish on it's own, but more of a polish that you apply to the finish. Think of it more as a Kiwi shoe polish in that you apply it, wear or use the item for a while untill it gets a little bedraggled, and then you polish it up again. What you want is a sealer. I would recommend Acrylic Resolene or something in that same category, and then you can apply the Leather Balm on top of that, and then buff it out to a nice shine. The Resolene will seal the dye on the leather and (hopefully) prevent transfer to the wool. I would recommend testing it first - dye some scrap, finish it, and then get a scrap of wool and rub the two together as hard as you can to see just how long it takes to wear through the Resolene. If it takes more than two hours of hard rubbing, then you're in the clear
  6. Non Flammable Glue

    From a kitchen hygiene perspective, anything that can't be thrown through the wash has a possibility of becoming the breeding ground for bacteria, so I would be very hesitant to permanently mount leather onto a cast iron pan. I would instead recommend a quilted slip-on or one of the silicone ones. We used to have a really big knife in our camp kitchen that had a bad habit of not getting washed properly before being stuffed back into the scabbard, and when I cut the old scabbard apart to make a template for the replacement, I discovered a layer of mold inside. Ever since then I've been extra-paranoid about washing anything I can't see into.
  7. What's going on here?

    I was taught to oil before dye, and I haven't had much problem with edge curl. I don't do a lot of thins stuff, so maybe that's helped me. If that sheep leather reacts like that to surface dye, perhaps a dip-dye method would help.
  8. tassel finish stitch

    I would have gone with an "X" stitch rather than the baseball stitch, myself, that would keep both surfaces of the band ends hidden. To do that you'd probably want to sew the band separate and then stuff the tassel into it with some glue though.
  9. I would put resist on the fish and the two high ridges in the border and then antique with Fiebing's paste. ...or maybe find a way to thin out silver paint to put a silvery highlight on the fish. Hmm...
  10. How do I get this finish

    Atom Wax or Carnauba Cream, a couple of those sheep wool remnants, and elbow grease. Take picture immediately after complete
  11. Gussets On Bag

    In my experience, changing the width of the gusset will not affect the operation of the bag. I can't imagine why they narrowed it - seems to just be a stylistic choice. The taper on the flap is to avoid being squished by the straps, as you suspected. While being able to do the front, back and flap from one piece of leather is impressive, doing it in sections makes it easier to get the piece out of the hide without any blemishes if you don't happen to be working with an A-grade hide. My only suggestion there is to not cut the end that gets sewn on straight across if you can help it - cutting that like a curly brace ( this thing: { ) dresses up the backside, especially if you're not putting on that back pocket. Do a matching curve on the bottom of the front side where it wraps back under, and that'll be snazzy.
  12. Double card pockets

    I actually have the CCD-07 pattern from this supplier, and it uses the first method, giving you this result:
  13. Finally Done!!

    Chuck Dorset over at Weaver Leathercraft has your answers for most of the dye topic in this video. The 'stumbles' he has with "Pro Oil" and just "Pro" is that Fiebing's has dropped the word "Oil" from the name for some reason, but the formulation is the same.
  14. Help salvaging a project with USMC black?

    USMC black has a couple of specific uses where it does a good job, provided you prep the leather properly. Dip-dying is really not one of those uses, unfortunately.
  15. Help salvaging a project with USMC black?

    Buff the nubbly side with a shoe brush and that should help get the particles out of the fibers. If the project is already sewn, you might need to use a toothbrush instead due to space limitations. I'd do this outside if you can, and wear a carpenter's mask or respirator.