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About TheCyberwolfe

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  • Birthday 05/31/1972

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  • Location
    The Great Wet NorthWest

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    SCA gear and archery tack
  1. Edge painting

    It would appear that what you have bought is a suede, not a top-grain leather like that which is normally used by folks here. If that's what it is, yeah, it's never going to burnish and you'll want an edge paint like the one you linked. If you don't want to buy a filetuese, then edge paint is a process of layers - apply a coat, sand it smooth, apply another coat and repeat until you have the edge you want. I don't know how well it will work with the leather you have here, or how long it will last on something that's just glued together instead of stitched along the length. Experiment and post your findings!
  2. getting the 2 different veg tanned color pieces to match

    If you want a very close color match for undyed leather, it all has to come from the same hide since each cow will have a slightly different color just like people do. This is where owning a leather splitter comes in handy, so you can take a thick hide and split down certain sections as needed. If you go the conditioner/oil and sunlight exposure route, be aware that you may get the pieces to match to start with, but age and additional exposure will darken the leather further, and each piece will likely darken at different rates so some months down the road the pieces likely won't match again. Leaving a project natural is always an experiment in aging and color change.
  3. Vegetable tanned watch strap lining and sweat?

    I used plain veg to line this one, and the second pic is one year later. Not sure what caused the splotch. I don't show folks the inside, so I'm not really concerned.
  4. Stiching holes

    Egyptian Leather on Etsy sells 5-packs of JJ needles, and Ritza thread in both full spools and sample lengths. They're in Washington State USA and their page doesn't mention international shipping, but Canada shouldn't be a big deal.
  5. Minor correction, that would be Egyptian Leather, on Etsy apparently I just tracked them down. Ritza 25 Tiger Thread by EgyptianLeather on Etsy
  6. Sunglasses Case

    I'm with Sofaspud - I made a pocket case for my computering glasses and used a spare lens cloth as the liner to prevent scratches.
  7. Bench Burnisher vs Drill Press Burnisher

    Bench grinder types generally spin faster, which means they build up heat in the workpiece faster and therefore allow you to do your edging faster than a drill press. So, if yours is a professional shop concentrating on output, then the grinder type is probably a better investment. If you're doing this for fun and maybe just some side profit, maybe you need the versatility of a single tool that can be an edger and a drill press.
  8. Edge dying

    Some folks like the idea of a contrasting edge color, but using a different color of dye may get odd results due to the way leather soaks up fluids. Edge Coat isn't a dye as such, it's more of a paint, and is designed to stick to the surface rather than soak in. It also dries to a kind of rubbery consistency, and if you have a very steady hand, you might be able to get away with not doing anything else to the edge, so it can save time in production. It also resists wear a little better than a standard edge, so something that's going to get rubbed or bashed around a lot may benefit from it. Belt edges are a good example, since pulling them through the belt loops and through the buckle wears on the edge after a while.
  9. Groover tool question (new to leatherwork)

    It's true that a skilled craftsman can make even crappy tools work for them, but someone new to the trade like yourself I would really recommend you get a better tool so that later on when you think you're good enough to buy better tools you don't have to re-learn how to do it without compensating for poor quality tools.
  10. Carved dragon

    I think the general rule seems to be "don't buy leather from Tandy". Every time I go in there, the best hide I can find is still only a low-B grade.
  11. wet forming and tooling question

    The thing to remember is that the molding process is going to stretch the leather, which will probably distort your tooling. If you're a stickler for straight lines, build solid molds and tool it while it's being formed. If a little stretch here or there isn't going to make a difference on the finished design, then maybe you can tool it first. Your mileage WILL vary, on each and every piece of leather Be sure to test your theories.
  12. The best way to cut straps

    You'll probably need a combination of both - that side may not come with a clean straight edge, so you'll need to make one with your trusty rotary cutter and a long straightedge. (I recommend clamping that edge down, I tend to slip on long cuts). After that, those little wooden strap cutters do an amazingly good job for such an inexpensive tool. The trick is making sure you set the thickness of the leather properly at the blade end of the cross-piece so the leather doesn't try to roll up on you.
  13. Good belt leather

    Weaver Leather has a pretty broad selection of belt blanks if you're doing one-offs or small quantities, and their prices beat Panhandle's - about $10 a belt. Quality is very good - they run it through a strap edger for you, so it just needs a little bit of light sanding before finishing the edges. I've bought three so far in different orders, and they've all been very good. They stamp very well and take dye in evenly. Springfield sells what they call a "Belt Bend" for $159 that's good for between 16-18 belts, which works out to under $10 per belt for materials. It's a Premium grade Hermann Oak.
  14. Using a dremel to skive leather?

    I went down to Harbor Freight a while back and bought a buffing wheel and a set of sanding drums that range in size from about 1" up to 4" in diameter. They mount right on the arbor and use common sandpaper rolls for refills, so I can use any grit paper I need. It works well for thinning larger sections evenly without excessive tool marks, and the largest drum is pretty good for sanding edges prior to finishing. For strap ends and other small bits I typically use a knife though, since it's right there on the bench vs. going out to the shed where my sander is. As with any leather knife, trick #1 is making sure the skiver is wicked sharp, and then you're better off going for multiple shallow passes rather than a complete skive in one pass.
  15. That's one piece of advice I keep hearing and never quite pay enough attention to: _light coats of dye_. Don't get impatient, and like 'Mutt says, walk away after the first coat and come back tomorrow for the second (if it needs it). Unless, of course, you're using black dye - then you do want to saturate it. But still walk away after that first coat and give it time to soak in.