sandyt

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About sandyt

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 06/08/1977

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    netherlands
  • Interests
    car upholstery, handcrafting leather, old machinery, polishing metals.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    beginner
  • Interested in learning about
    everything
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    google
  1. Maybe glue? Helpes me out sometimes in these kind of cases.
  2. For what it's worth. If you are going the epoxy route. I would reinforce the piece with a bracket. Epoxy the broken piece and epoxy the bracket. Secure the bracket with two bolts if you have the space to tap threads. Hope you find a satisfying solution for your machine. Sandy. (Hope my masterpiece of a drawing makes sense)
  3. Haha, why not indeed. Too bad I don't have a spare hook. If I can't fix (re-time) my machine, I will try the same probably. It's strange though. All the shafts are pinned. The timing can't be off. Maybe the previous owners placed the wrong hook in it? I don't know. Hope I have time soon, so I can play with the Adler Thanks. Sandy.
  4. VanRhodes, Have you solved this issue? My longbed Adler 20 has the same issue. After a good cleaning it went better. But sometimes the hook doesn't 'fall' back past the needle and sits still exactly in front of the needle resulting in a missed stitch. Not working on the machine right now, but just curious how/if you handled it. Sandy.
  5. Could it be the bottom thread twists once in a while and so doesn't give thread? Or the top thread jumps out of the tension disks a stitch or two and then 'falls' back in place? Looks like irregular tension to me somehow.
  6. I don't have enough experience with different brands. So I can not recommend a certain machine brand. But it looks to me, a machine with double feed (drop and needle) sounds perfect. Sandy.
  7. Is this what heaven looks like?? Then I am not afraid anymore......
  8. I hope wizz is just joking! I think wizz thought the machine was for the husband. He read the first post to quick maybe and didn't understand it. He doesn't have to apologize to anyone. He never showed disrespect to anybody. Never. Wizz is one of the most respectfull and helpfull people on this forum. Hoping you fooled me Wizz. Sandy.
  9. It looks the same as my Adler 20 and 21. Should it move after loosening screw 3? I never managed to move them. They where realy realy stuck stuck stuck. Maybe I wasn't mad enough? Should give it a try next time. Sandy.
  10. I guess I am rich after all.
  11. With a paper shim, you could move the shuttle race to the needle. I have read this in an old adler manual. Don't know how many play you have to the needle though when you push the hook sideways to the needle. Is it almost touching already? Looks like it. I did this a few years back with an Adler. When I pushed the hook manually towards the hook, they would touch. But when sewing, I never had a problem. They didn't touch. But this was in my case though. I wouldn't recommend it to someone else, but it worked for me. Sandy.
  12. You are correct, CowboyBob. Left and right a little screw. Middle a small hole for oiling. See picture. On my adler 220 it's just open. But no wick material or dust build up after cleaning. So there should be wick material in the reces? I have never bought a new hook, so I don't know if it's in there brand new. Sandy.
  13. Hi people, I recently bought a bunch of used spare parts. Among them where pfaff hooks. While I am sorting them, a question came to mind. I always used to clean the little groove in the hook, see picture. I always assumed it was dust build up. Now, I looked at a few hooks and they look to be packed with a felt like material. Is this the way it should be? Is it an oil wick? Or is it dust built up? Sandy.
  14. It took a while, but I finally had some sewing machine time. That 221 manual is great!! Why did I not find that one. Found a few, but not as detailed as this one. I walked it through and it seems to be the same machine as the 220 as far as I can see. It explained all the adjustment 'thingies'. The machine is sewing smoother now. I did all the adjustments what needed to be adjusted with the same measurements. The eccentric for the feed dog fork can be adjusted Uwe. I thought one screw should be in the groove of the shaft, but the manual said it can, but it doesn't have to be. I think that was why I kept heaving 'trouble' before. Only thing left, is the numbers on the stitch length adjuster are not corresponding to the real stitch length. 1 to 5 are almost 0. The adjustment is between 6 and 10. Not a big deal excualy. In the future I will look to it when it's getting annoying, haha. Just for information: The original feet are a little big. Great for big work this machine is build for, but for fine work to bulky. I changed them with durkopp feet (from a normall size compound feed machine) I had laying around. They fit almost 100%. Only needed very little tinkering. To everybody, thank you for your time! This realy is a great forum. Sandy Tjokrowidjojo.
  15. I have never owned a Sailrite. So I am just guessing, sorry. But from what I have read about them, it's possible you are just asking to much from this little motor. Are you using a sharp and correct leather point needle with the correct thread size? This could also help a lot if it's wrong. Sounds to me the motor is struggling to punch through at low speed (less power). But again, I never owned a Sailrite. Sandy.