Red Cent

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About Red Cent

  • Rank
    Leatherworker.net Regular
  • Birthday 10/01/1941

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  • Website URL
    http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
  • ICQ
    http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    McLeansville, NC by way of WV
  • Interests
    SASS (cowboy action shooting)29170L
    Cowboy/western leather
    Firearms
    and a little Dickel
    Life is too short to argue with stupid people and drink cheap booze.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Cowboy
  • Interested in learning about
    filing the gourd with knowledge

Recent Profile Visitors

4,716 profile views
  1. What the heck is antstreak?
  2. 3500 rpm works good although I have seen a wisp of smoke now and then. You will find it is the leather that determines a good burnish, not any reasonable rpm. If you have an 8-9 ounce piece of leather that has been beveled, you can get a slight brown and glass like look with water. A nice slick burnished edge with water provides the surface you can dye easily. I use a dauber to dye the edges and it glides smoothly and snag free creating a good even line. I never use anything till the first water burnish. Someone spoke to the edge the beveler leaves. Don't sand the outer edge off. Burnish and dye. That cut edge will actually stop a reasonable amount of dye from flowing into the leather surface if you dye the edge with a contrasting color. If you have access to a drill press/milling machine and a machinist vice and a couple of rattail files, you can make burnishing tools. Drill a hole lengthwise in a dowel rod. Insert a tight fitting bolt and nut. Tighten. Place in the drill press. Place a rather fine tooth rasp (at first) in the vice. Spin the dowel rod and adjust vice to remove the stuff that makes the dowel rod wobble. Then use a more fine tooth file. The some sandpaper would be nice.
  3. He needs to get that translated to English I draw my cheap Tandy bevelers (3 & 4) across 1000 grit on a board a couple of times. On the other side of the board is another strip of 1000 with red rouge smeared on it. I push the beveler through the rouge, with some downward pressure, around 4-6 times and wipe off. Cuts great. Bianchi would not be pleased, though. You can hear the beveler cut the leather.
  4. That is a solid looking holster. That would excite some of the speed demons in SASS. While I am always impressed with the tooling and other workmanship, I sure like those edges. Good to see someone else doing nice edges without using Edge Kote or dye. Did you do the burnishing slow and by hand? Gettin' pretty good with that new fangled machine.
  5. Denatured alcohol, also called methylated spirits or denatured rectified spirit, is ethanol that has additives to make it poisonous, bad tasting, foul smelling or nauseating, to discourage recreational consumption. In some cases it is also dyed. Denaturing alcohol does not chemically alter the ethanol molecule. Rather, the ethanol is mixed with other chemicals to form an undrinkable solution. For many of these solutions, there is no practical way to separate the components. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol I use the cheaper stuff and don't see any difference. Then again, I don't use deglazer either.
  6. The dowel rods do hold the leather for you. It makes cutting thin leather very easy and straight(er). I sometimes use 3-4 ounce veg tanned as a liner and it cuts it very well. 8-9 ounce is real easy. They also free up a finger or two. Stumbled onto a another trick that be done to the wooden strap cutter. I started using the blades for the safety beveler and fixing the tool so that the blades are placed at an angle. Either bottom back or top back. I ran out of the strap cutter blades and accidentally put the beveler blade in the slot and did not know it was at an angle. Amazed how easily it cut 8-9 ounce leather. Trox, since that picture, I rounded the edges. I saw the parallel shiny mark too.
  7. "I have been wanting to get one and use it for punching and border tools. Does it make punching quicker on repetitive tasks? And do the tools stay sharper longer? " I take a belt and lay it down the side of my table and mark, with a pencil, each hole. Then I take a pair of wing divides, find center and make a press mark at each pencil mark. Move to the C press and place the punch over the mark and punch. Very quick. And I don't need an anvil or plate steel to take the force of the blow. I doubt they stay sharper, but you will be able to punch a lot more holes before you sharpen them. I don't use it stamping borders or other such tasks. That would take more movement than a deadblow hammer and a stamping tool, I think. "Are you using clicker dyes with that? Have you gone up to 1 5/8 x 1/4 oblong belt slots?" When I do the belt slots in a pancake holster (8-9 ounce times two) I use the C press to punch round holes at the end s of the proposed slot. Then I go over to the 20 ton press and cut out the center material of the slot using a 1 1/2" slot cutter. I can do it with the C press but it takes a lot of muscle to get the slot cutter through. I guess I could get the slot cutter ultra sharp and it would do the job. Air over hydraulic and clickers for the 20 ton press are in the "coming soon" category The little press is a whiz doing eyelets and I use it for putting snaps on the leather. I believe the press will earn its value quickly. Hint. The slotted wheel that sets under the ram is not conducive to leather making. Put it aside and get a 1/4" or so piece of steel to span the "U" shaped cavity in the base when the wheel is removed. Probably a 6" x 4" by 1/4". Place a piece of cutting board on top of that and go at it. Don't get a 1/2 ton. Get the one ton.
  8. With the filter, you will get a mist that lands all over the place. Not noticeable until cleaning up. Cover your leather. I use a box fan with the filter in front and spray in the direction of the fan. The oil dye will have fumes that will choke you. If you do much spraying, get a good mask.
  9. Mighty small footprint. I don't use blunt instruments anymore. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-arbor-press-3552.html
  10. Get the wooden draw cutter and do this to it.
  11. The easiest way to retain retention is a screw.
  12. I lay the gun on a piece of poster board. I draw an outline of the gun. Then I sketch the style/form of the back piece around the gun. I usually add suede to the back and turn the slick side of the leather in so it looks lined :). I cut apiece of leather strategically from the cow side, cut the appropriate throat of the pouch, wet the leather, throw it on the gun and stick both in a food vacuum bagger. Instant mold. After about thirty minutes, I cut the bag and gingerly place the leather in the sunshine. Meantime I sew the cosmetic edges of the holster. Sweat guard and sometimes the toe and the throat. Suede has been glued on. I don't do stiffeners. I don't like them. 'Course money talks. Place dry molded leather on the back, looks OK then glue. Cut off everything that doesn't look like a holster, sand and burnish, dye and burnish, then stitch front to back.
  13. Some people are turned off a little by the looks of the aluminum gun. It is not as "neat" and clean/detailed as the blue gun. You can see where an employee has taken a sander/grinder to certain spots to remove mold marks or a bump. Dimensionally, they are as good as the blue gun. And JSL's point about retention is a good one. I have a few of the aluminum ones. .
  14. "I like the gp100 is because it resembles the old six shooters." Ohhhh, such irreverence.
  15. "......to only cover the cylinder and frame and not the entire gun. That's the only part that's holding the guns in." The single action handgun contacts on each side of the front edge of the cylinder. The ejector rod and/or the barrel also makes significant contact with the holster. If one makes a holster with the old fashioned trigger guard cover, the front of the trigger will have contact and if one makes a holster with a welt, they usually depend on the trigger guard to stop movement of the gun into the holster. The "holster" you are describing seems to fit a Yaqui slide configuration. While legal, I would bet most SASS shooters would not use them. That holster would be somewhat flimsy and without barrel support may allow the gun to rotate. Or make it 2 ply and very stiff. The rule book simply says that we should use something that will retain the six guns during the rigors of the match. Retention is deceptive and a holster can be made to retain the six gun during the sprints to each long gun and still be perceived as "dangerous". Most all SASS shooters look for the very stiff holsters and some demand metal or kydex to retain the stiffness. A good holster built for speed and a modicum of retention will be 2 ply totaling around 12 to 14 ounces, very, very hard and stiff in the pouch and very little "flop" from hanging over the belt. Some of the purists (not a derogatory term) demand a holster that covers most all the handgun. These holsters are usually single ply and are not for the speed demons. Hello, my name is Red and I am a gamer. Some reading this will understand. I build holsters for speed and ergonomics.