Red Cent

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About Red Cent

  • Rank Regular
  • Birthday 10/01/1941

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  • Gender
  • Location
    McLeansville, NC by way of WV
  • Interests
    SASS (cowboy action shooting)29170L
    Cowboy/western leather
    and a little Dickel
    Life is too short to argue with stupid people and drink cheap booze.

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
  • Interested in learning about
    filing the gourd with knowledge

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  1. The leather will make a lot of difference in the success of your burnishing. Realize that we talk as if we all buy the exact same leather from................ A piece of leather that is "conditioned" with NF oil or EVOO before you do anything else may not have good edge results. Saddle soap has a number of ingredients depending on the recipe you are viewing. Some or all off the following: lanolin, Castile, NF oil, hand soap, flake lye, and gum turpentine. Pick up a small piece of evenly cut veg tanned leather, preferably 8-9 ounce. With a damp rag, BARELY wet the edge. About six inches long or so. Buff or machine burnish. You should get a glass smooth edge in about 10 seconds. When you get the edge damp, there is a small window when the leather will re-act to the heat of the burnishing. Dampen three to four feet of leather and you will not have the same result the full length. If you machine burnish you may get away with it. This slick edge is the ticket to get an even dye application. And the dye (alcohol) will make the edge dry and may crack. I use a big dowel rod to burnish immediately after I dye. I don't let it dry. This will show all the problems with your edge. This will smooth the leather more even if it is dry, it will be smooth. If it is too dry, then rub on a glycerin bar lightly. No water. The glycerin will provide moisture and really slick the edge. A machine burnisher may not make it shiny. Do not despair. This is probably the leather. After you finish, the best thing in any case is to get a piece of towel and buff the edges. Some leather will crack at this point if you bend it. Use a small amount of water at the bend before you bend and lightly apply more glycerin and get out the old dowel rod. The last application is a 50/50 of beeswax and paraffin. Machined burnished. You don't want to know how much time I put into my edges.
  2. This is interesting. Lets see. I took the hand lift lever and ball off when I got the Cobra 4. What gravity thing? Works great. OK. Trying to "step out of the box". That new fangled Rube Goldberg edge guide seems to be an answer to what question. Betcha I can buy a whole side from Zack White with the price. I use the old roller guide all the time especially with the end of a belt. Its a killer for doing round things=equally spaced stitches. And it hasn't moved yet. Getting miserly in my old age. When I make a ranger belt I sew one piece of leather around the main belt. When I sew this on, there is a little mark for me to place a 5-6 ounce strip of leather under the front of the guide that raises it to the perfect height. I guess I don't do the stuff that would require the new thingy. Why doesn't Al take a hack saw and cut the side off the plate. Then he could get his ball back.
  3. Most of my SASS holsters are 4 layers. Two 8-9 and two 6-7 here. JL, what has three layers of 8-9?
  4. What is the raw rough edge? Won't sand smooth or burnish?
  5. I use the glycerin bar on dry firm edges only. And I use it after sanding and burnishing. If your edges have the look of a sponge, you got it too wet or it is spongy leather. The bar won't help. After beveling and sanding, a light wipe with a wet rag should set you up for burnishing and a glassy smooth edge. Nothing else is needed. After I dye the edges I burnish with a well used dowel rod that will smooth the edges surprisingly well. If the dye causes some roughness, I will get out the glycerin bar. I never use saddle soap.
  6. Looks good Colt. I agree with Bikermutt. I was busy also: children and grandchildren Ashamed to say I struggled like an addict to stay out of the shop.
  7. Won't be able to get anything shipped until after July 1 from W&C. Tried to order last week and they could not promise delivery until then.
  8. Putting an acrylic finish on and then trying to get the leather to absorb a conditioner is really counter intuitive. Aussie contains beeswax and is a "resistant" finish besides being a conditioner. I dye and the next day, rub on some Neatsfoot Oil. After I finish the product, I add the M&G.
  9. 8-9 outer and 5-6/6-7 liner here. John Bianchi, in his tutorial, suggests using a one ounce lighter weight for the liner. These weights apply to western and field carry holsters.
  10. Would have to be, I believe. Tie a square/reefer knot, turn so the knot is somewhat flat, wet, then roll flat(er). When dry, it ain't gonna come loose.
  11. The food vacuum gives me decent definition. I carry some of it a little farther. I do not spend a lot of time getting detailed definition. I still think the simplicity (other than construction) of the box works. I may not be satisfied but I want to put one together. Need to do some research on controls.
  13. Excellent.
  14. Mike516, the chuck opens up the use of a lot of stuff. I use a belt/disc sander for initial sanding but I use this: to fine tune the edges with the grinder. .
  15. Cheap grinder with all the safety stuff removed. Screw on keyless & ready to go. I use a cheap milling vise and a drill press to make burnishers from dowel rod. Rat tail files are good.