Colt W Knight

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About Colt W Knight

  • Rank
    Leatherworker.net Regular
  • Birthday 01/16/1984

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    https://www.facebook.com/knightguitars

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West "by God" Virginia
  • Interests
    University, Luthiery, Firearms, and leather work.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Guitar straps, padfolios, and purses
  • Interested in learning about
    Leather tooling, sewing machines, and leather
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Google search for leather working forum

Recent Profile Visitors

9,244 profile views
  1. Just picked up a Consew 206RB-2 for $300

    I have some #25s I bought for mine(206-rb1) to sew biothane. I never could get 206 thread to work on mine, so I use 138 with a 23 needle. Have a hard time sewing with a #22 needle. But my machine has definitely been used hard for 40 years. Oh yeah, edge guide is a god send, especially on long belts. I turn the speed up and mine actually sews better. It will sew very slow, but it prefers fast.
  2. Avoiding machine stitching hypnosis

    Im so worried about going off the line, I don't have to worry about spacing out. When I sew long straight runs, I use the edge guide and trust the "force";
  3. DSC_0645.JPG

    Fantastic, wish I could do that. I can't seem to do much better than tracing shapes of the face. I can't make them look real.
  4. what can I do with a gifted singer 66?

    I bought an inexspensive Singer 66, and I did all the "internet" recommended upgrades to make it sew "leather". I bought a bigger motor, pulley, new belts, walking foot attachment, right needles, thread, etc. etc. Best it would do consistently was sewing wool felt to one layer of 5 ounce vegtan. It was terrible about skipped stitches and keeping an even stitch length. It just didnt have the mechanical control to feed thick material reliably. I used it sew guitar straps, and it worked 80% of the time, but every 5th time, it would scrunch the stitches up and make it look awful.
  5. Are sewing machines worth the money

    I paid off my first sewing machine, Consew 206 within the first month of owning it by selling guitar straps and padfolios, which prior to the sewing machine took me 4 hours to sew by hand, and my hands would ache for days. The machine allowed me to do the part I enjoy and zip through stitching in under 5 minutes. The wear and tear on my hands ( I have issues with my hands) that the machine saved me was worth the price. I would have had to have given up the hobby without it. I bought a 4500 to do commercial work building GPS tracking collars for cattle. It also paid for itself very quickly. I see a lot of folks wanting to sell leather work, and they all make the same old Tandy/Stohlman etc patterned wallets, belts, and the like. I don't know how anyone makes money selling that stereotypical stuff. If you have something now that you can sell, you will be able to sell a lot more with a machine. If you love the hobby, but the hand stitching is killing you, the machine is amazing. If you are on a shoe string budget trying running a leather shop, the machine is not going to save you.
  6. Hi Colt!

    Thanks for your posts about the MT900.  I am about to make the plunge thanks to you. Wanted to ask you how you punch holes for the buckle prong to go through, and also what do you use to finish the ends?  Weaver recommended the Self Centering Punch, but that is way more $ than I want to spend right now.  Thanks for any help you can give.  I make dog training equipment and wanted to make things look more professional. 

    1. Colt W Knight

      Colt W Knight

      Hello Susan, 

      You probably wont like my answer, but I bought the self centering punch Weaver sells. It has my holes and english points built into the die.   Prior to that, I was using oblong punches, and that was pits if you are doing more than one at time. Plus, you are constantly pounding all the time. I routinely make 30 Cattle collars at a time. I can build the collars in less than hour with the rivet press and centering punch. 

    2. Susan Kennedy

      Susan Kennedy

      Thank you Colt!  I appreciate you taking the time to reply to me.  It's hard to get first hand info about making things with Biothane.  I will definitely consider buying both, as time is money. I am also looking at Beiler's catalog which has some of the same types of machines but are less expensive. Beiler's has a self centering Guide to be used on a foot press, but not a self centering punch like Weaver's. I can definitely see the advantage of Weaver's self centering punch. I  have a Cobra Class 4 sewing machine so I could survive without the MT900 for a while, and just sew things, while I save up for a MT900 to do the riveting : )   Thanks a zillion!!  Susan

    3. Colt W Knight

      Colt W Knight

      I also added a lube pot to my Cowboy 4500( same machine as a Cobra Class 4) That darn biothane is hard to sew, especially when I am making multiple collars. The thread and needle heats up quickly. The lube pot really helps, but it is messy - splashes a lot of silicone around. Not good if you are painting or glueing in the same area. 

       

  7. Yet another which machine to buy topic

    7mm length is huge. You would never need to go that long on leathercraft projects. The reason SPI is shorter on thick material is because of the compound feed walking foot design. The needle is pendulous, so the higher up, the shorter the stroke.
  8. Consew 226 Sewing machine

    I used a size 25 needle in my consew 206 with #138 thread when I was sewing biothane/brahma webbing for GPS tracking collars and padding material. The smaller needles just wont do it. I now have a Cowboy 441 clone, so I don't do it anylonger
  9. **Help Identify Machine**

    Ive seen those same pictures on Ebay - These are not leather machines, and wont sew anywhere near as nice as those pictures in real life leather applications.
  10. And it aint even April Fool's yet ...

    I feel your pain. I use to be extremely active in the custom electric guitar market, and posted on the the guitar forums a lot. I finally quit the guitar forum because I was constantly getting asked questions from around the world about guitar building. I didn't mind the questions at all, but what really pissed me off is no one wanted to put the effort forth to make high quality stuff. I would lay out the labor intensive steps on how to apply a high gloss lacquer finish or build nice guitar necks, and people would always me to make up short cuts or easy ways out. If you can't afford the tools you need, you need to get creative. If you want to half ass it, it will come out half ass. Don't even get me started on famous guitar players or pickers who worked for famous people. Always wanting something for nothing. The worst ones were nobody bands that no one knew telling me I should give them a guitar because they are the next big thing in music, and me giving them a guitar will be good for me. I always told them I would give them the "artist" price, which to me was 30% more than I normally charge.
  11. Glue pot

    I bought the one Weaver sells. It does work well, but these are what I don't like: My brush bristles keep falling apart, and super heavy stopper/brush is inconvenient for me to use. Unless you use it steady, it sets up and becomes a pain.
  12. Cobra 4 backstitch problem

    I had this exact same problem making my GPS collars. I added the lube pot filled with silicone and the problem went away. Don't ask me what the problem was ( I suspect the thread was getting hot).
  13. Using Wax Lube Pot on a 441

    I was running great, and sewing my GPS collars without any troubles, at last. I decided to turn the speed up on the servo, so I could get through quicker. Now my silicon lube is sloshing out of the pot. Anyone have any remedies for this problem, besides slowing the speed down? I bought the machine to increase production efficiency, not slow it down.
  14. Using Wax Lube Pot on a 441

  15. Using Wax Lube Pot on a 441