Colt W Knight

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About Colt W Knight

  • Rank Regular
  • Birthday 01/16/1984

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    West "by God" Virginia
  • Interests
    University, Luthiery, Firearms, and leather work.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Guitar straps, padfolios, and purses
  • Interested in learning about
    Leather tooling, sewing machines, and leather
  • How did you find
    Google search for leather working forum

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  1. I drove from Arizona to West Virginia, all highway, but the roads do suck in New Mexico and Arkansas.
  2. I drove mine across the country with the head on the table. All the welds in the table broke loose. Had to re weld the table when I got to my destination.
  3. A 227 isn't big enough for holsters, I'd look at Cowboy 3200 or 4500.
  4. My Consew 206 will sew that combo without any trouble. I think what you really want to ask yourself is what size thread do you need/want/ While my consew will sew webbing onto 10-12 ounce leather without much trouble, it can only sew with #138 thread, which I consider kinda small for heavy duty applications. Do you need a cylinder arm, or will a flat bed do? Also, will you be limited by throat space? A lot folks need that extra space between the needle and arm to make turns or manipulate bigger items. Are you just sewing straps? or making bags? etc... I believe, Cowboy, Cobra and techsew all make a smaller version of the 441 (Cowboy 3200) that will sew 1/2" thick with heavy thread for about $1000 less than their full size 441 clones.
  5. Most folks use a swivel knife to carve leather. It has a thick blade that leaves a wider groove to set your beveled, and ball bearings to make cutting curves much easier.
  6. Looking to pick one of these up and add a roller foot setup for some more decorative stitching on my bags . Anyone know what the going rate is? I see them on ebay for 150-500$ and a leather site on facebook says 900, which sounds ridiculous.
  7. Those made in Japan Consew 206RBs are outstanding machines. One of the industry standards. They sew with up to #138 thread and 3/8" thick . I have one just like it, and I really enjoy working with it. Going strong decades after its manufacture.
  8. I bought the Weaver rivet press with autofeed hopper. Works great, but it was expensive.
  9. Exact same steps I laid out earlier. That piece just doesn't have contrasting dye or paint
  10. What happened is your leather had some residual grease and oil on the surface from tanning and handling. Applying an alcohol based dye basically creates an oil slick on the leather. To avoid this in the future, simply clean the leather with saddle soap while you are wetting the leather for tooling or casing. You can also take a demo tag with some saddle soap and wipe it off now.
  11. I think you are doing more smooshing than leather tooling. Leather looks to wet when you were tooling. I would suggest looking up some more info on Casing leather
  12. You want to use water based acrylic paints on leather, in my opinion. They are available at wal marts, hobby stores, and just about any where. Even cheap acrylic work on leather, however, cheap paints require more work. A lot of artists paints are really thick and need thinned a little with water to make the brush strokes flow out smooth and for the paint to get a bite into the leather. You end up having to do multiple thin coats to get good even coverage. The best I have used for leather so far is Angelus brand acrylic paints designed for use on shoes and leather. Most even come with a brush built into the lid, which is nice when you are painting letters and such. Angelus colors tend to be more vibrant and cover better with less coats. I am sure there are other brands that work equally as well, airbrush artists use a lot of water based acrylics, so I am sure there a lot of good brands marketed to those folks as well. Here are a few of my Angelus paint jobs
  13. I would do it like this. 1. Print out your design on computer paper. 2. Case the leather 3. Lay the paper on the leather, trace the edges. 4. Use a swivel knife to cut the trace marks (half teh depth of the leather) 5. Use a beveler to bevel the edges. 6. Apply a sealer. 7. Apply an antique 8. Apply sealer 9. Paint design with a contrasting color.
  14. I too shunned gloves at first. The folks at work all started telling me they knew when I was doing leather work by my hands. I now keep a box of nitrile gloves on the bench.
  15. What size thread and what size needle and needle point?