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About sheathmaker

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  • Birthday 04/17/1933

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  • Location
    108 Briarwood Lane W---Kerrville, TX 78028

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Custom knife Sheaths and general custom leather work

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  1. Finishing edges when the inside is lined

    The suede is NOT going to finish exactly like the veg tan. You will always see at least a texture difference. Any finish (bees wax, saddle soap etc. will darken if not stain the suede. For the application intended for these two pieces, I believe I would finish both pieces of the veg tan completely and then glue up the lining and then trim it flush with a #11 Exacto blade and leave it with the very sharp cut edge with no further finish. When in actual use the suede will become almost "invisible" any way Placing the mats between two flat surfaces under weight should take care of the curling. In fact, if they are just damp, not wet, that would be even better. Just let them dry completely under the weight. If you are lining something else, knife sheath, holster etc. the process is entirely different. Paul
  2. Line 24 Snap Question

    Well. I don't know for sure because I've never tried them, but I'll bet big bucks that they will work. The Ligne 20 and Ligne 24 snaps are uniform from just about any source and the dies are produced to the same tolerances. I have the Tandy press and dies which are now many years old (It's so old, it's blue instead of red) and I have run snaps through it from many different sources. Paul
  3. What should I use to cover this book?

    My experience along this line is that 2/3 veg tan is just about perfect for the task. I make a piece for the outside consisting of 2 layers of 2/3 cemented flesh to flesh and then the end "sleeves" are just one piece of 2/3. Finished product shows no raw flesh side and remains thin enough to work and use comfortably. Bends nicely at the spine and ism easy to use thereafter. Paul

    Well, my friend, I read your bold type resume, and I'm here to help................except, like the others, I'm not sure what kind of help you need. A little more detail and specifics would be helpful. I take it from your resume you must be quite elderly, because to have done all that you should be at least 160 years old, No? Anyway, all that aside with a little more specificity, how may I help you? Paul
  5. Directors Chair

    Rocko, that's Axis Deer. Indigenous to India, but now we almost have as many here in the hill country as the White Tail deer, (and probably as many as India)! Paul
  6. Directors Chair

    @Alane, A few years ago I hit on the idea of custom "Arena" chairs and used the bar stool height director's chairs for the purpose. They were just right to pull up to the area fences and sit comfortably and watch the Equine and Bovine shenanigans take place. They were very popular, generally sold in pairs and I sold something over 100 of them before I just got tired of making them. I used NuBuk leather7/8 Oz. where there was usually canvas and then overlaid 7/8 Oz veg tan skirting for the decorative and custom parts. This allowed sufficient thickness and strength to prevent sagging The NuBuk was just right to fit in the slots on the seat with the metal rod I used to replace the dowel. From that point the only limit was your or my imagination regarding the custom work, tooling, inlays, etc. They sold for almost unbelievable prices and it seemed like once the first couple showed up at a show, then every body had to have a pair. Ah, the good old days! Any way you might get an idea or two for your project. Good luck! Paul
  7. Glossary

    Bill, there is one book you should get if you don't already have it. "Leathercraft Tools" how to use them, how to sharpen them by Al Stohlman. I believe theTandy stock number is 61960. The book deals with tools, not stamps. I don't know if I've ever seen a complete, all in one place, glossary of stamps, but there has been over the years a wealth of information concerning stamps and their individual differences and uses in the "DoodlePages" which are no longer produced, but Tandy has them for download for a price. (they used to be free and came out once a week or so and could be picked up a the Tandy stores). Stohlman's "Figure Carving" book Also has a wealth to stamps and their individual use. With regard to different bevelers, there are plain, lined and checkered. Within each of those there are deep (steep),rounded, pointed, undercut, and within those there are many different sizes from small to very large. Each has a use or it wouldn't exist, your experience level and the type work you want to do dictates whether or not you either need or want a certain type. This general theme repeats itself throughout the various categories of stamps. First you have general categories, Bevelers, Seeders, Crowners, Border, etc, etc, etc. then within that you have the plain, checkered, lined, etc., then within even that you have various sizes, yet all are called bevelers, or seeders and so on. If you decide to do figure carving. you need to "specialize" your tools to accomplish that best. Sheridan style carving also requires some specialized tools but they also fall within the general categories of Bevelers, Pear shaders, Background etc. Don't try to get them all at once. One to two here and there as the need arises when you spot one you need or one that will do the job with more precision and in 50 years or so you'll have over 400 (like me) Good Luck Paul
  8. Stitch unbalanced every few stitches

    Try an #18 needle and see what happens. My 69 thread likes the 18 much better. Paul
  9. Gun Belt leather

    I go one step further. I layout the belt width I want and then block cut that out with about 1/8" margin and then cut the back piece about 1/8" larger than that on both sides and then cement it flash to flesh, and then I cut out the actual belt width. Nice 90 degree edges and ready to edge and burnish. it wastes a little bit of leather, but the quality of the finish is worth it. I line everything I make so I use this procedure on just about everything,' holsters, knife sheaths, belts, head stalls spur leathers, whatever. Paul
  10. 20" Splitter Question

    That is correct, one blade, and on the Cobra 14, unless they have changed something recently, a straight blade screw driver and the correct size Allen wrench is all you need to remove the blade and insert a new one. Paul
  11. 20" Splitter Question

    @bikermutt07, the Cobra 14 is below the strap cutter, scroll on down. Paul
  12. @Dun, reference your baby cousin's scissor case. The leather is not really all that important. Could be either Veg. Tan or Chrome Tan. Think about how the case will be used, scissors in and out multiple times a day. The interior will burnish fairly quickly. The Exterior will pick up oil (ever so slight) from the operator"s hand and will fairly quickly glaze slightly and patina naturally. The case will likely spend its life in a clean climate controlled environment, therefore any concern about leather care will, in fact, be minimal and any conditioning efforts will be few and far between If veg. tan a very light coat of either Neatsfoot Oil or Virgin Olive Oil every few years is about all it would need. If Chrome, leather cream or some other "balm" same time table. If I were building it, I think I would use 2/3Oz veg. tan cemented flesh to flesh so the case would be self lined when finished. Just stack it up front panel, back panel, and welt would not even be necessary. Long life, low maintenance. Paul
  13. Just a little curious...

    Well, I guess so far I'm the elder of the bunch. Will be 85 in April this year. @Ferg I guess you're the closest. One thing I can say for sure is "gettin' old is NOT for SISSIES!" Paul
  14. @Dun, Long term storage and any effect any leather has on the contents stored therein depends on the average temperature and relative humidity at the location. In a very warm and or damp climate, it would probably be prudent to store your knives/guns/other metal items outside their sheathe or holster. I find that I have much more trouble with Verdis Gris, (that green crap on Brass and Nickel), but that seems to happen just as frequently in Veg Tan as Chrome Tan. In any case if you have any reason to believe the sheath or holster might have been wet or even damp remove the knife or gun and make sure it has dried thoroughly before any subsequent use. Paul
  15. @Rossr, I answered your private message. I specialize in high quality, relatively expensive knife sheaths which are made for knives from $1000 to $20,000 and are now scattered all over the world I am neither advocating for or against Chrome Tanned leather. I have used Chrome Tanned ( and possibly other tanning) Deer skin for over 20 years for lining my knife sheaths. I have also used it for personal items. In all that time I have never had, nor heard of a problem in any of my work attributable to Chrome Tanned Deer skin or other Chrome tanned leathers Paul Long