sheathmaker

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About sheathmaker

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  • Birthday 04/17/1933

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    108 Briarwood Lane W---Kerrville, TX

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Custom knife Sheaths and general custom leather work

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  1. Cobra class 18 or 20

    Hey Trav, The 20 is so new to me that I don't know anything about it, however the 18 will do what you have described just fine and will also handle inlay work nicely. As you know the 18 is what I use and you've seen the work it produces. Paul
  2. Belt Tip with no hole

    I have secured many, many belt tips like yours with epoxy. I use JB Weld brand, the 5 minute variety. Never had one come off, but I have taken a few off and it was difficult. I don't think just losing the tip would be a factor to be concerned about. Paul
  3. Stitching Troubleshooting Cobra Class 4

    Don't want to beat a dead horse, but if you did everything you saId and are still getting the bobbin pulled up like on pass 6, then there has to be a bind somewhere in the thread track from spool to needle. A silly question, but are you sure you threaded the machine correctly? What you are experiencing is quite common with the thread track from spool to needle hanging up on a screw, or an unintentional extra wrap around the secondary tension on the way to the take up arm, or a little bit of bind going through the last "screw" loop or the last hole before the needle. I have had similar temporary problems, but they all traced back to pilot error and a bind somewhere in the thread track. I know it's frustrating. I'd give Steve a call and see what he might suggest. Good Luck Paul
  4. Landis Splitter - leather catching on knife

    It appears that your blade has been poorly sharpened in the past, with both ends rounded slightly. The blade should be straight across end to end. it should either be replaced with a new blade or re-profiled and sharpened by a competent sharpening professional. (if that competent professional is you.....have at it!) Paul
  5. Removing the horn from a saddle... is it possible?

    I would suggest, (if you have not already) you check out Australian stock saddles. pretty much like the western saddles, but no horn. Paul
  6. Material For Template

    I solved this problem at my local sign making shop. They use thin PVC stock for making their signs such as you see for "No Trespassing", "No Hunting", "For Sale", etc. It cuts easily and literally lasts forever as a template/pattern. I bought a 4X8 foot sheet and and that also lasts a very long time. While it costs more for the 4X8 it's a lot less expensive per square foot than buying the ready made signs at the hardware store. Paul
  7. Do yourself a favor and get on the phone to Leather Machine Co. and then hop in your truck or van and make the very short drive to pick up your brand new , in warranty machines set up and tuned perfectly and enjoy years of trouble free use. If you are doing enough volume to warrant the machines in the first place, they should pay for themselves in saved time and quality very shortly.......and Yes, I practice what I preach, I have three machines from them and have had for four years. They are a great company and have a great track record for excellent after the sale service. Paul
  8. Belt/Pocket Clips

    nealverde found me, but for the benefit of others who may need or want the clips. Paul Long 830 367 5536 or pfl@cebridge.net. Thanks. Paul
  9. The Search for Colorful Leather

    Those wallets you show could be made from two layers of Kid skin which comes in just about any color you can imagine. You simply cement flesh to flesh with Black on the inside and whatever color on the outside and then cut out your patten. Top grain both inside and outside and will be about 2/3 oz total thickness. His wallets appear to be clicker cut. Getting the custom made rubber bands will probably be a bigger problem. Good Luck Paul
  10. Dixons unbranded army surplus tools...

    Very interesting, Martyn. Would you happen to have an eBay link, or vendor eBay name? Thanks in advance. Paul.
  11. This is what I do, but to each his own. I buy Wickett&Craig utility grade saddle skirting and have it split to 7/8 oz. I buy five colors. When the sides arrive I "square up the side", (Cut of the belly leather) and run it through My Cobra 14 splitter taking it down to about 2 OZ., which I then use for linings my custom sheaths etc. I have found the top grain of belly leather is for the most part equal to the top grain anywhere else on the side. This means I no longer have to have additional sides split to 2/3OZ. so my overall inventory of leather has gone to about half, and I don't have trash cans full of belly leather. It works fine for me, you are welcome to try it too! Paul
  12. Sandy Morrisey?

    Sandy is 10 years and one day older than I am so he will be 93 on April 16th this year. He is no longer doing commissioned work and while he has slowed down, he's still active and makes the semi local knife makers round ups around his home turf. I call him every year on his birthday and we wish each other Happy Birth Day. He's still in Blairsville, Ga. Email me if you want his contact information. pfl@cebridge.net Paul Long (sheathmaker)
  13. Thinning Wyosheen

    I apply it the same way Bob does, but if you ever do have an occasion to need to thin some, common hardware store Lacquer Thinner will get the job done, and the ratio is whatever pleases you. Paul
  14. Windham Cub

    Any machine that requires the constant use of one of your arms in order to operate will become a real pain sooner if not later. There are times when you absolutely need both hands to manipulate the leather being sewn and unless you have three arms that could be a major problem. I appreciate your concerns on noise, but unless you are just hyper sensitive I think you'll find the modern servo motor machines are not all that noisy. Another point to consider is the price. $1495 for a manually operated machine is a MAJOR step toward the price of a 441 clone type machine. Even more major if at some point in the near future you decide the manual machine isn't quite what you thought it would be and decide to upgrade to a motorized machine. I think you owe it to yourself to reconsider the 441 clone machines and specifically have a discussion with Steve or David at Leather Machine Co. (Cobra brand). They will advise you and try to work with you regarding product and pricing and their after the sale customer service is the best I've ever experienced. They are also supporters of this site. I've traveled both roads and I speak from experience. http://www.leathermachineco.com Paul
  15. I met Ray once and I was a good friend of Bob Dellis who was also closely associated with Ray years ago. I believe Bob learned a lot from Ray. If my memory is correct they both were carving for a famous saddle maker in Arizona at the time, and were either room mates or stayed at the same boarding house. Their styles are very similar, but I think Ray came fist so Bob probably learned from him. Bob is deceased, and I don't know about Ray. Most of their work was in fact free hand although Bob did use "tap off" flowers on a lot of his Sheridan style work. The free hand scrolls on the back of the belt was kind of a trademark for both of them. They both used a lot of tri color technique using the natural leather color, under a resist and oil and one dye producing three distinct shades on the belt according to the pattern. As to the current worth of Ray's work, I have (a few years ago) seen a few of his belts for sale at Clint Orms Silver Smiths shop selling in the neighborhood of $800 to $900 to go with his very high quality and high dollar custom buckle sets. Depending on condition being like new, your belt could be quite valuable to the right person. That's all….Iv'e strained my memory. Paul