chuckgaudette

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About chuckgaudette

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Los Angeles, California
  • Interests
    graphic design, model airplanes, computers, leather working

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    watch bands and small leather goods
  • Interested in learning about
    improving my skills

Recent Profile Visitors

2,712 profile views
  1. Bell Skiver Feed Roller Replacement

    I figured it out. You have to remove the roller bracket arm. You'd think they'd tell you in the manual.
  2. Bell Skiver Feed Roller Replacement

    I have the new roller and the shaft. That's as far as I've gone. I can position the roller in the bracket at the front of the machine but I can't get the shaft back in between the roller and the drive shaft bracket in back. I don't know if I need to remove some additional parts to do that and, if so exactly which parts.
  3. The feed roller on my Consew Bell Skiver literally broke. For some reason, the leather got bunched up between the roller and the knife and the roller shattered. I have a replacement roller but I need some help with the steps involved in replacing it. With the roller in place on the shaft and in the bracket, I can’t seem to get the shaft positioned between it and the drive shaft joint. Are there some parts that need to be removed to facilitate replacing the roller? The manual isn’t much help in this. Thanks
  4. So Cal leather splitter/skiver?

    These people are in Los Angeles and have a Camoga splitter. they charge $45 an hour. http://losangelesleathercraft.com
  5. Bell Skiver technique question

    Here is an example. This is both ends of an 8 " strip skived with the exact same settings. It is a embossed leather and closer to the belly area. The blade was just sharpened. The one on the left had an original thickness of about .97mm and it skived down to .95mm. On the right (the opposite end) it was originally .95mm and it skived down to .23 mm.
  6. Bell Skiver technique question

    Matt, I'm skiving fairly thin soft leather used mostly for handbags. Its typically embossed and dyed and maybe 1.5 - 2 mm and I like to take it down to around 1 mm. I do have a digital thickness gauge I can use. Gigi, Yes I am skiving both the left and right side of one piece so when I rotate it I get a different result through the bell skiver. Once I get it adjusted to where I want it on one side, I rotate the piece and get a different result on the other side.
  7. Bell Skiver technique question

    Not sure if this question should go in the machinery section or technique. If I cut a 1 foot square of 2mm leather and skive a half inch along one side it will come out as I intended. Then if I turn the leather to skive the opposite side with the exact same settings the second side may barely skive at all. does this have something to do with the grain of the leather? If so, how do I correct this without readjusting the skiving depth for each side? Thanks
  8. Sewing Machine conundrum

    Uwe, do you make a flatbed table conversion for this machine?
  9. For sale: Riri zippers

    I've been looking for Riri zippers in sizes 8 and 10 with metal black teeth if you have any
  10. no I only work with soft thin leather for bags and some wallets
  11. I work mostly with soft leather about 2 - 3 mm thick. The 65 watt laser will cut it but the resulting charing of the edge takes a lot of work to clean up. If you cut thinner leather than this it often shrinks from the heat. So I often just use it to score where I want to cut and then use a knife to complete the cut. At least that way I can get the exact same pattern line every time. Engraving works better but its always a lot of trial and error on each material to get it right. I run my machine from my Mac using Parallels emulation software. The Laser Works software comes with the machine and works fine. When I first got the machine the water pump didn't work. Boss sent me a replacement immediately. So I have no complaints about the customer support. Overall using a laser is a learning curve and you go through a lot of material figuring it out. I don’t think its actually paid for itself, but then it cost a fraction of what a Trotec or Epiloq cost.
  12. I have the small hobby laser from Boss Laser https://www.bosslaser.com/boss-ls-1416.html 65 Watt. It's a good machine. I bought it to cut leather but found it's better for engraving. Of course, the bed is often not quite big enough. It does have pass-through doors on all 4 sides which helps. I'll attach a couple of examples
  13. 130 Watt CO2 Laser

    Very clever idea Brian. I was talking to some guys who were cutting belts with a laser. They put them in the washing machine to clean them up. It worked but the soft thin leather I'm using didn't look so good afterward.
  14. 130 Watt CO2 Laser

    Brian - I'm running a 65 Watt machine. I've tried many different combinations of speed and power. My machine has automatic focusing so that's not a problem. I have used light tack tape to mask off areas I'm cutting. The tape mainly keeps the soot that's being generated and blown around from the air assist from staining the leather. I've done some fairly intricate cutting as well and a laser is probably the only way to do some of this sort of cutting. But you spend time weeding out the tape after cutting. Another problem with the charring is if you paint the edges with brighter color edge paint like a red or blue, the charring will darken the paint
  15. 130 Watt CO2 Laser

    I've been disappointed with cutting leather with the laser. I'm using mostly soft leather about 3mm and the charring is just too much work to get off. What I do is use the laser to score the pattern on the back side of the leather and then finish the cut with a knife. That way there is much less clean up. It's more work than if I had a clicker and some dies but at least I can get the pattern outline on the piece accurately.