CowboyBob

Contributing Member
  • Content count

    1,631
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About CowboyBob

  • Rank
    Sewing Machine Dealer

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    sewmun@aol.com
  • Website URL
    http://www.tolindsewmach.com/
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Toledo,Ohio
  • Interests
    We sell New & Used
    Leather Sewing Machines
    Parts,Needles &Thread

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Can help w/sewing machine questions & supplies
  • Interested in learning about
    People needing help with machines

Recent Profile Visitors

32,202 profile views
  1. The largest one is a Singer model # 3-1 & supposed to sew 1/2" of leather? Sails or whatever needed sewn.I think they needed the big wheels to keep the momentum going has they were treadled.
  2. I wished I knew more about these old machines too! The smallest machine is Singer first Industrial model & the ser# on it dates to 1858 so it might of done some civil war sewing?? The 2nd one back is a Standard or #2 & the larger one is #3 for harness work. They all use a wooden pitman arm to the treadle pedal insead of a belt like the newer machines & they are pretty hard to treadle !
  3. We use a grinder & then buff them or you can use a Dremel to smooth them down.
  4. Our neighbor had a big oak tree & it seemed like every winter after we fist moved in a branch would fall off ,hit the wires & we'd be out of power.We after the 3 or 4 time I got tired of it so I bought a 2000 watt Honda & when the power goes out I shut off the main breaker,plug it into an outside outlet & have enough to run the furnace & a few lights.It's handy to have because I've deal w/the Amish & take it with me to run machines.We had a storm 2-yrs ago in the summer & need it too.I guess what you get depends on how much power you need.I think the one I got set me back under $1,000.00.
  5. Look up model# 66
  6. The roller foot that everyone buys for the 31-15 was standard on some 17 class,like 17-30 (I think) that have a higher shank,that's why you have to raise the pressure bar to install it on a 31-15.If your doing designs where you need to make tight turns the smaller roller works better & the larger roller is what the shoe people like to go over seams.
  7. Yes,you loosen the 4-bolts,it helps to have someone holding onto the table top so it doesn't drop all the way down.
  8. That's a great way to change a belt,I always would take the nut off & do it the slow way & then adjust with the washers!
  9. I would much rather have you call than fight a problem that you don't know or understand how to fix! Looping underneath is usually a threading issue,you need to make sure you have the thread wrapped around the 2nd tension 1&1/2x,also ALWAYS hold your needle thread when you start sewing the first 3-4 stitches so it doesn't loop underneath too.Many times when it loops underneath people loosen the top tension thinking it's too tight when all it was is the threading or not holding the needle thread.
  10. If I don't answer it's cuz I'm talking on the phone ..so leave your ph # & I'll call back ASAP !! Thx
  11. They called me towards the end of the day yesterday wondering why the belt pulley was turning & the machine wasn't.I asked them if they were sure to line the 2-bolts in the grooves before tightening the handwheel,she didn't know.Apparently it wasn't.All these larger machines are shipped w/the handwheel off.
  12. The belt tension is pre-set,so it's best not to loosenthe reducer or motor.Just take your hand & start pulling the belt off on the back & turn the handwheel towards you & it'll slide off,you can also roll it back on the way by starting it on as far as it will go & trun the wheel towards you.
  13. Yes,the split threads on the upper tension got pinched together alittle & the nut won't grip it good enough now.If your real lucky you might5 be able to pry it apart to work,it might break but it needs replacing anyways .You probably aren't getting enough upper tension so it loops underneath.
  14. I shoulda asked you what have you done to the machine?? But you can see the difference now.
  15. Since there's no electronics involved a simple one is real easy to make.I made one for our Bridgeport mill yrs ago & it still is working.All you need is an old 3 ph motor large than your motor ,run 2-110 v separate lines to it & continue on the the clicker motor.Then we hooked up a starter motor that spins the convertor motor.So we get the starter motor spinning first ,then turn the 220 on ,shut the starter off & the 220v convertor motor keeps running & as it runs it puts out the 3 phase.This does only work w/Deltawound motors(for the convertor).But the spare motor we had laying around just happened to work after we got it wired up. PS. I did try a static convertor w/condenser in it & had some much power loss it wouldn't work,did an online search about convertors & found out about this.