Sugarkryptonite

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Everything posted by Sugarkryptonite

  1. Hi guys I just got this as my first machine from my uncle who had it sitting in his basement for the past few years. He had it for a while and used it to fix horse blankets for people at shows when my cousin was into the horse game. I'm excited to have it and love how it looks! We turned on the motor and it ran well in his basement. My plan is to just do quick cleanup on the machine (while leaving the original patina), clean up the table with new paint on the legs and a wood treatment for the top (also keeping the patina), and hopefully get it running nicely to sew some stuff! Some pics attached. So far I've cleaned up the machine, oiled it up, disassembled the whole table, sandblasted the legs, painted them (now letting them dry). Next step is going to be applying the wood treatment for the top which I will hopefully do in the next few days. Oh and btw, from another thread I made, with the help of some members here, we were able to determine that this machine was built around 1943 in Bridgeport, USA!
  2. Measuring new v belt length woes

    Thanks all, I got a 42" and it fits like a glove. Note for newbies, do NOT measure inside the sheaves like I did with your string if you do it that method. I suggest the calculators shown here and online for calculating V belt lengths (as well as lambchop's formula, calc is just easier).
  3. Hi guys I recently installed my servo motor on my machine, having trouble measuring the belt for it. I used a string, got it decently tight wrapped around both pulleys in their loosest position (as in no tension would be on the belt), measured the string on the ground and got 39 inches. Later that day I went to buy a 39 inch belt, got home and it's not even close! A few inches short at least. It clearly says on it 39, and I measured with the string multiple times to be sure. Now after that, I used a couple calculators online for v belt length where you put in both pulley diameters and the center to center spacing between the two, and I get roughly 41 inches, which sounds like it could work, but why such a big difference with the string? When I measured the pulley diameters I used the outside diameter, not the inner sheave portion, it is unclear on all these sites where you must measure exactly. Any thoughts?
  4. Singer 111W153 & table resto project

    Not at all, Yours is still a simple, elegant solution my friend. I kinda wish I had made it wider now and put a real bearing in it. I think the larger surface area as seen in the posts above when rolling helps it out.
  5. Hi guys I'm trying to do the techniques shown in Alexander's video here, specifically at time 9:28 where he lifts the foot up and moves it back slightly to sew over the existing stitch: Whenever I try to do that, I lift up the foot slightly as he did, but the thread feels tight in the material, and I can't move the material back like he does freely, maybe only half the distance that he does if I'm lucky. _____________________________________________________________________________ On another note, when I go to take my material out after a stitch is finished, sometimes I need to rotate the machine by hand until it seems the thread is released in the bobbin case area so that I can pull the material away to cut the threads, that's normal, right? I have to rotate it manually pretty much every time I'm finished a stitch. If it makes any difference I have a 111W153 which is a walking foot model, unlike the needle feed 111W151 like he's using the in the video. _____________________________________________________________________________ Thirdly, is there a way to adjust the tightness of a stitch in material? I have my tensions set perfectly to not have any looping showing, but if I put a pick under a single stitch say in the middle of a stitch I did and I lift it up slightly, that stitch will get slightly looser and stay loose.. Is that just built into the machine or something I can modify?
  6. Backstitch without reverse & freeing material questions

    You're right that is another option! Albeit a more time consuming one and harder if you're dealing with bigger projects. I'd like to learn both ideally.
  7. Backstitch without reverse & freeing material questions

    Thanks, that is a good article if you have puckering, but what if you don't? How do we know if the seams are tight enough? I've been attempting to do more of the back-stitching shown in my first post, but having a hard time getting the holes to line up when I go over it again...any tips? Or is it not 100% necessary?
  8. Singer 111W153 & table resto project

    Thanks to DSloop's idea, and seeing pics of the Consew 226B lift arm which has a similar bearing on the end, my dad and I decided to make our own. I included some pics of the machining process for those interested. Seems to work well. Also added its own tire on the wheel
  9. Backstitch without reverse & freeing material questions

    Right, I have that under control. I was referring to a different kind of tightness in the stitch but I guess it isn't possible. Yup thanks, but I'm having trouble with that, see post 1.
  10. Backstitch without reverse & freeing material questions

    Thanks. So if I increase the tension on the bobbin and needle thread (while still keeping them regulated in terms of loops in middle of material), the stitch will be tighter? How do I know when a stitch is tight enough? Never seen much info on that. I'm just testing right now on some thinner vinyl, as well as some thicker leather that I have, tried all 1 layer, 2 layers, etc. It seems to sew just fine, but not sure on the actual stitch tension that it should have. You're talking about moving the material back for the backstitch, right? Thanks I'll keep it in mind.
  11. Singer 111W153 & table resto project

    Great idea, thanks!
  12. Singer 111W153 & table resto project

    Thanks! and I believe he was talking to me Thanks my friend
  13. Singer 111W153 & table resto project

    Thanks. Did you use the fine stone on the top of the hook or the bottom curved portion?
  14. Singer 111W153 & table resto project

    Nice! Thanks for your help. I saw your thread about your rebuild, not sure if you painted yet, but when I do powder coating we use plugs like these ones: https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Silicone-Rubber-Tapered/dp/B00XYD2760/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1548300925&sr=8-4&keywords=tapered+silicone+plugs They're made for plugging holes temporarily while painting or powder coating (or anything else really). Just a suggestion from my experience. I just guess it would suck to have to wait for them when you already have everything prepped for paint!
  15. Singer 111W153 & table resto project

    You're right! I was just testing sewing some different stuff. I guess no reason to do 1 layer in the real world. I noticed that when doing pleats in for example, motorcycle seats, they use scrim foam as a backer behind the vinyl. In your case, when you sew it yourself, does it work good, or still some problems? And yeah I was just going with 92 for the "look" of the bigger stitches/thread.
  16. Singer 111W153 & table resto project

    Thank you Wiz and Katit. I saw the thread you made regarding tension issues...I can say you had a lot of the same questions as I do, and they were answered in a way by others that still left you and I both confused. Thanks for your tips about the vinyl. What do you mean when you say 1 layer is not a "real world" scenario? As in usually you will be sewing through 2 layers of something at least? I guess you're right. I have the machine sewing quite well through leather, 1, 2 layers quite easily. Even 2 layers of the vinyl I have it does OK (loops are still slightly visible on the bottom...but as you mentioned, thread might be too big, etc) And you're right maybe I should try a #19 or #18 needle, I have #20 right now (all I have, I just started).
  17. Singer 111W153 & table resto project

    So I timed the machine again just to be sure, it's not so bad now. I realize now why I couldn't pull the material out half the time...it's because you need to turn the hand wheel until the needle thread has come off of the hook (if you stop while the thread is wrapped around the hook, you'll never get it out). The machine sews through leather quite well, 1 layer, 2, even 3 layers without adjusting the tensions, but man, I have some lighter upholstery type vinyl (still not THAT thin), and I just can't seem to get it to put the lock in the middle. It's extremely finnicky, sometimes it'll be fine, then you do another row of stitch and the loops will be showing (on one side or the other), it's never consistent compared to the leather. Is it just the thread that I'm using? Too thick? I've seen others on YouTube sew this stuff easily with even larger thread than I'm using...boo. Like in this video, Alexander seems to be able to sew through many different types of materials without adjusting anything. Although we don't see the locks of the stitches in the video, I'm guessing there aren't any...
  18. Singer 111W153 & table resto project

    Thanks. Yes I followed Uwe's video. I wouldn't say the hook is extremely pointy, but not extremely dull either, could probably do with a sharpening. I actually found this thread which is quite interesting, and I believe to be the exact cause of the problem I'm having. http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/70546-thread-gets-caught-under-hook-occasionally/ Also was just curious how you guys set your thread tensions when you only have 1 color of thread? Right now I'm using 2 to be sure of the tensions and get it set up, but don't want to have to do that every time.
  19. Singer 111W153 & table resto project

    Thanks. I had it like that, but then messed around with it a bit. I think I'll take it out again and set it. I had it so that if I hung the bobbin case from the thread vertically, if I jerked it vertically it would fall a slight amount and stop. Does that sound about right? I'll double check all the points the thread runs through, also will recheck my timing tomorrow as I believe it had changed a bit since I reinstalled the thread tension release slider. As for the thread take up spring, I did exactly as you mentioned, wound it around once clockwise until it seats on the little nub that sticks out to hold it. How much tension and at what angle do you set yours at? I'd say mine is at medium tension right now. This is how I have it oriented: Thanks for all your help.
  20. Singer 111W153 & table resto project

    Thanks, I'll try that. Were you able to fix it on yours? I'm having a hell of a time finding a medium between the top and bottom tensions. Sewing through 2 layers of leather or vinyl seems to work pretty well, the lock is in the middle of the fabric (can't be seen anyway), but as soon as I try to sew one layer, I get loops. Adjusting does help but still not perfect. It seems extremely finicky, with even an 1/8 turn on the top tension wheel makes a crazy difference, is that normal? I'm using a #20 needle with 92 thread. Are we suppose to set the bobbin tension first, and then go from there adjusting the top? How much is normal on the top tension adjustment? Mine is almost backed off all the way. Also here's more pictures of the thread getting caught in the bobbin area that I was talking about: When this happens (almost every time sewing), after I'm done sewing, I lift the presser foot and attempt to pull my piece out, but its stuck in there, locked in with the top thread that has gotten pulled and caught in the bobbin area. After I cut them all I can pull it out obviously. I can then get the small piece of top thread out of t he bobbin area by turning the machine backwards slightly until it gets loose and I can pull the short piece of thread out. Bobbin thread and needle thread are still loose during this whole ordeal, it's just that small piece that keeps getting stuck in there for some reason. I have tried putting different amounts of pressure on the threads at the back when starting with my hand, but no difference. Also, where should this piece be in relation to the bobbin case? There is a slight adjustment and I'm not sure where to place it exactly. Also I think an adjustment for the thread take up spring is in order as well. Right now I have it only slightly sprung, and it is parallel with the machine lengthwise if that makes any sense.
  21. Singer 111W153 & table resto project

    Yup! I made sure to do that. Also I noticed that on the stitches, the thread is at a slight angle between each hole, maybe like 10-15 degrees. Probably unrelated but still a problem. Brand new needle.
  22. Singer 111W153 & table resto project

    Got it back together today. Had to take the new wrong thread release slide that I was sent, cut it in half, and weld it to my old one to make a functional piece. Also had to add some weld to the tip of the thread release pin because it was worn down from so much use. I'm now having an issue where part of my top thread is getting caught under the bobbin case. I can still sew fine (although top tension appears to be way too tight, even backed off all the way, bobbin tension seems to be good), until the end, when I lift the presser foot and try to pull my piece out. It's jammed in there, with 4 threads attached to the material and the machine, all a big mess. I had timed the machine and adjusted the bobbin tension a few weeks ago, but this is the first time I use the machine with a motor. Anyone have any ideas? Timing off? Need to check it again.
  23. Singer 111W153 & table resto project

    Dad was able to get all my packages yesterday at our P.O. box in NY. Got some small parts, screws, bobbins, and my new servo motor. I had bought a new belt this past week, the same size as my old one, thinking that it would fit the servo motor, but nope.... Was able to make up some parts with my dad to get it to fit temporarily with this belt. Unfortunately some problems with the parts I got...was sent the wrong thread tension release slide, and the switch on the servo motor was broken out of the box.
  24. Singer 111W153 & table resto project

    Glenn, I'm not sure what you mean exactly. When I raise the foot, the spring gets loose, not under tension, is that what you meant?
  25. Singer 111W153 & table resto project

    Good idea, thanks! I think that might be the problem, too. If I hold the top of the rod where the second bend is and stop it from twisting, it's much smoother. Any idea about setting the spring height/tension with the set screw on the rod itself? Thanks Gregg! Appreciated.