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About Wizcrafts

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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  • Location
    Burton, Michigan, USA
  • Interests
    Leather work, sewing and sewing machines

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Handgun holsters, tooled belts, custom made to order items, sewing, alterations, repairs
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  1. Need Custom Rolled Leather Dog Harness

    I don't know what "a Martingale" means. Would you care to elaborate? I am a general category leather maker. I don't specialize in horse tack.
  2. Hand punch for holes for Blevins buckles?

    Thanks for your info. This helps. I will probably order a #153-10 frame with a #10 punch tube and get a #9 tube with it (both work in a #10 frame).
  3. Hand punch for holes for Blevins buckles?

    I found that Osborne makes single hole punches in these widths. They are expensive at Weaver Leather, but available in sizes up to #10, which is 5/16" diameter. Their #8 tube is 1/4" I.D. What is the diameter of your #12 punch that you use for Blevins?
  4. Does anybody know if there is a drop forged hand pliers hole punch available, or custom built, to punch the big holes used on wide, thick stirrup straps for Blevins buckles? I think the holes are either 1/4" or a smidgen wider. I sure could use one to add holes up the top end of a strap where it gets harder and harder to position the strap on a punching block on the end of a table while the customer holds the saddle just so. I already have regular forged hole punch pliers and they cannot accept a huge hole like I need for a Blevins stud. Even if they could, the anvils are too small. I'm hoping for a link to one for sale. Thanks in advance, Wiz
  5. FWIIW: I have a room full of industrial sewing machines and at this moment, not one has a safety clutch. The only time I jam the top thread in the bobbin case or shuttle race is when I don't hold back the starting threads with enough tension. This usually only happens when I am starting to sew a large patch onto the back of a vest and can't quite get enough thread out of the armhole or bottom when I start. But, the jam is obvious and I stop very quickly and clear it with snippers and/or tweezers, then move along. I have never thrown out my timing from a thread jam and I have two old Singer walking foot machines that are still sewing every day.
  6. Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, and presumably all other Consew dealers, sell a less expensive flat bed triple feed machine, labeled: Consew P1206RB. It has a forced feed oil pump system, which is a plus. But, it lacks the safety clutch mechanism the the 206 models have. It lists at just under a grand, US.
  7. 111W113 Outer presser foot problem

    Aside from manually increasing the resting position of the outside presser foot and trying to set the inside to outside foot lift positions with the big screw on the back, that's about all the adjustment your machine has. You are best off balancing the lift of the feet, with the presser just barely making contact with the top of the throat plate when the feeder drops below the top. There are much later model 111 machines that have an internal foot lift ratio adjustment inside the body. In fact, I saw a mention of it in a recent topic on this very forum. But, your older model probably doesn't have that collar, which is inside the machine. Modern triple feed walking foot machines have a different method of alternating the feet and most allow a wider range of alternating foot lifts.
  8. First of all, 12 ounces is really light for #277 thread. It is hard to hide the knots that are fairly large, as you can see. But, the knots should not be changing altitude in a continuous stitch line. Something is intermittently letting go or tightening up and causing the knots to move up and down. Let's consider the usual suspects. Investigate these one at a time until you identify your culprit. Improperly wound bobbin, or bobbin inserted feeding the wrong way. Try reversing the bobbin orientation. Thread fragment under the bobbin tension spring business end, causing the bobbin tension to drop as the thread feeds past the scrap. Out of round bobbin ends Moving up ^^^ top thread is over-bonded and comes off spool like a coil spring, changing its tension as it feeds or binds along the path, then lets loose. Top thread not staying centered in the top tension disks, thus changing the tension. This can be caused by twisty thread. Needle too big for thread/thickness combination. Try a #24 needle. Thread too thick for thickness being sewn, Try #207 thread instead, with a #24 needle Top thread flipping over guides or rollers on the way to the needle. Rawhide or weak sections in the leather can affect the stitches. It is obvious that the problem is too much tension on top and not enough on the bottom. You might solve the problem by tightening the bobbin tension screw a bit, then compensating with the top tensioner. This is a big boned machine that doesn't mind being rode hard.
  9. Cowboy 3200 vs 3500 vs 4500

    The inline feet are so constructed that the inside foot sticks up about 1/4 to 5/16 inch above its bottom. Whatever the amount, it is that much less that you have left for the needle to work with before the bottom of the needle bar makes contact with the top of the inside inline foot. It's not so bad if you're using the standard throat plate that comes with the machines. But, if you need to use one of the raised throat plates (to get around stirrups or next to hardware or leather that protrudes down on the left side), you will lose their height above the base plane (feed dog or standard slotted plate) height in addition to the loss from the oddly shaped inside inline alternating foot.
  10. Singer 96K51 tension question and....

    The hook, race and bobbin case clearances will determine the maximum thread diameter. It is what it is. Be prepared to stop at #69 bonded thread, for trouble free operation.
  11. Singer 96K51 tension question and....

    Answer 1: Loosen the bobbin tension spring, or up the needle one size. Answer 2: When I had a Singer 96k40, the thickest thread it reliably used was #69, using a #18 leather point needle. I found I could put #92 on top, but had to stick with #69 in the bobbin. This required a #19 or #20 needle, which was the largest I could find back then. Answer 3: You can raise the presser bar a bit in the static working position for more clearance. But, once the bottom of the needle bar makes contact with the top of the foot, it's game over. Also, the knee or foot lifter should raise the presser foot to its maximum lift, disengaging the top tension disks and releasing the hand lift lever, if it was used before the knee/foot lever. It is normal for the knee or foot lift to exceed the hand lifter height. You need to realize that your 96k51 is a tailoring machine. It's intended work in gaberdine pants, ladies dresses, suit jackets and Army uniforms. It was never built to sew leather. Any leather sewing on it should be done using the wheel foot and feeder set.
  12. Help With Juki 341N

    It's remotely possible, but highly unlikely you will find a dealer or private person who has a smooth feed dog for your machine. So, take it off the machine and braze across the teeth, then grind/sand it down flat. Make sure you smooth out the needle slot and round the edges with round Emory cord. If you can't braze, try using liquid steel from two squeeze tubes.
  13. Missing from my list of sewing machines are two Union Lockstitch Machines I have owned and sold off. I started in this business as a greenhorn to sewing leather. I did have garment experience because my Father was a Tailor. But, finding a true heavy leather stitcher was more of an adventure than I ever imagined when I set out on the unexpected Journey to Middle Earth! Several times I thought I had found a big enough machine to sew holsters with #346 thread. But, I was sadly mistaken. Even a Singer 132k6 couldn't do a proper job sewing a half inch along the side seams. When I literally fell upon a ULS, everything changed for me. A half inch? No problem! 3/4 inch? No problem! I sold my second ULS in 2011 and used the money to buy a long body Singer 109 walking foot machine and a Fortuna skiver. It was a good deal, considering that I already had a Cowboy CB4500 for heavy work and thick thread.
  14. No kidding Gary! I have had to do some work on every machine in my shop. They all go out of adjustment from time to time, or need to be tweaked for a special thread, or complicated job. The older machines need the most work. Some are more reliable than others. But, I know with certainty that when I turn on my Cowboy CB4500 that it is going to sew. I may need to tweak the tensions, but it isn't going to sit there and spin without picking up the thread at all. Yes, I occasionally need to slightly reposition the hook, or move the needle bar, or lower the presser bar, but it's all part of the game. If I wanted a machine that is set it and forget it, I'd drive to Weaver Leather and buy an Adler 969 ECO for about 13 grand!
  15. There are YouTube videos showing how to adjust, tuneup and operate most of the leather sewing machines we are using today and yesterday. These machine are based on proven designs that have persisted for decades and in some cases, over a century. Most are built to perform one task and do it well, unlike modern domestic machines that try to be everything to everybody. In order to maintain and adjust an industrial sewing machine you need screw drivers, hex head wrenches and open end wrenches, in SAE and Metric. Most adjustments can be done by hand-eye coordination while moving a part. The dealers who setup the new Chinese and European sewing machines are capable of talking a buyer through an adjustment. Email and private messages allow the sending of pictures, manuals and links to videos. In the rare instances where a repair cannot be described to or done by the customer, the head needs to be shipped back to the dealer. If parts are needed, the dealer will put them in, reset and sew off the machine before returning it to the customer. This is better than going too far and making matters worse on one's own. But those cases are few and far between. Serious repairs tens to occur more with used machines than new ones. Lack of oil on critical moving parts, or using the wrong oil are contributors to seizing problems. Most leather sewing is done at very slow speeds, generating small amounts of friction and heat, far below the rating of most shafts and bearings. This is why most of our commonly deployed sewing machines have manual oil ports. Regarding your option of buying directly from China, that would make YOU the dealer and repair depot. Nobody else would be obligated to assist you, unless they do it out of the goodness of their heart. Importers and dealers of Chinese machines take care of their customers or else get bad reputations. They make a markup to cover their time and shop charges. I was told that when a new major brand 441 clone arrives in a wooden shipping box, after being picked up at the dock, that it takes anywhere from 4 to 6 hours on average for the dealer or his hired hand to uncart and degrease it, mount it to a table (that had to be assembled first), tighten loose screws and nuts and bolts, adjust the needle to hook timing and balance the alternating feet, then oil it and sew it off, making further adjustments as that machine dictates. Or, you could learn to read and write in Chinese and ask the manufacturer for assistance!