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About Wizcrafts

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    Burton, Michigan, USA
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    Leather work, sewing and sewing machines

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    Handgun holsters, tooled belts, custom made to order items, sewing, alterations, repairs
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  1. Ferdco Pro-2000 ... Which Machine Base?

    Probably a Seiko frame.
  2. Thread breaking Seiko SK-2B-1-20

    Yes. The hole will be round, not slot shaped, or oval, or triangular. Round point needles are meant for paper, canvas, cotton, denim, vinyl and most other non-leather materials. Leather point needles are specifically designed to penetrate leather for the best results in otherwise difficult material. A benefit of using round points is that the stitches will lay flatter on the top and bottom surfaces, rather than getting pulled in on the leading and trailing edges, as slicing needles tend to do.
  3. Thread breaking Seiko SK-2B-1-20

    Okay, no harm done. Buy some #23 needles (round point!) and use #138 bonded nylon (22 pound test), or bonded polyester (21 pound test). That should hold a 3/8 inch stack of book papers together. If you need more strength, buy #207 (aka: T210) bonded thread and use the #24 needle you already have. Just make sure you use round point needles, unless the covers are of leather.
  4. Thread breaking Seiko SK-2B-1-20

    Please, for the love of God, do not put a #27 needle in that machine. It is meant for use with a #24. You may be able to squeak in a #25, but watch out for impacts with the feed dog hole and hook. If you break the machine it will be very costly to ship and repair it. The hook clearance is insufficient to pass 1/2 mm thread of any kind. Your idea of buying #138 thread is fine. It may even handle #207, which is what the #24 needle is sized for.
  5. Crazy stitching

    Yes, I lower that thread guide as far as possible. Some machines will have more room to move the guide than others.
  6. Thread breaking Seiko SK-2B-1-20

    If you must use 1/2mm thread (aka: 4 cord, or #277), you'll need a machine meant for heavy thread, like the Juki TSC-441, or the Cowboy, Cobra and Techsew 441 clones, or the Adler 205 heavy stitchers, or a Union Lockstitch, or Campbell Lockstitch machine, or even a Puritan chainstitch machine. The latter three machines are actually built for use with linen thread. If you need a flatbed machine, look for a used Adler 204-370 (long out of production, but out there), or a new Cowboy CB243 - both of which sew at least 3/4 inch with thread sizes up to #415 (.7mm), using needles up to a #27. These machines have an open frame shuttle and huge cylindrical bobbins.
  7. Thread breaking Seiko SK-2B-1-20

    I found the pdf with the specs for your machine. It is not clearanced for that size of thread and is only rated for up to a #24 needle. You must use smaller thread than 1/2 mm. I would go down to 3 cord linen (Chinois #832), or #207 bonded nylon.
  8. Thread breaking Seiko SK-2B-1-20

    I looked up your thread and found that it is a little over a half millimeter in diameter. Your size 532 hand sewing thread is about the same as #277 bonded nylon. This calls for a #25 needle. In your case, you may need to move up to a #26 needle to poke a large enough hole for the take-up system to pull the lockstitch knot into the stack of paper. Lockstitch sewing machines with a standard closed eye needle are not meant for use with any prewaxed thread. The thread path, guides and tensioning disks are not optimized for sticky thread. Use bonded nylon, bonded polyester, or even heavy cotton or poly core button hole thread.
  9. Crazy stitching

    It kept the thread deep inside the disks, which was not happening before. Bonded nylon and polyester thread is much more slippery than unbonded thread. Slippery thread that moves around in tension disks needs to have a greater angle of entry and exit from the disks to keep it centered. If the angle can't be changed, double wrapping it will help. The theory of the multi-hole top post on some industrial sewing machines. Because some sewing machines, like 441 and 205 types, have their tension disks on the top of the head/faceplate area, the incoming angle of incidence of the top thread can be almost inline. This is horrible for maintaining dependable top tension. Bonded thread is not only slippery, but is often twisty. That is a two way fight for the guide in front of the disks. So, vendors of these machines usually hammer in a thread guide post that has 2 to 4 holes, drilled at different angles. The idea is that if the thread is moving around in the disks, providing some back pressure will predispose the thread to stay down in the disks. By feeding the thread through holes at different angles, you build back pressure. The closer the wrapping and greater the angle of wrap, the greater the back pressure. It can be so great that it overrides your tension spring entirely. That is counterproductive. So, if your machine has a top post with even one hole going through it, feed the thread through the hole and turn the post with pliers so the exit angle is not inline with the tension disks. If it has 2 or more holes, feed it in the top, then around, then out the bottom hole. Back off the top tension spring to balance the knots. If you back it off all the way and the knots are too high and the bobbin spring can't bring the knots down, go back to using one hole with an offset angle. If your machine lacks a top post with holes, try to move the steel loop thread guide in front of the tension disks down as far as it will go. I did that on my CB4500 and it really helps secure the thread inside the disks. When really twisty thread causes trouble, I feed it through the top hole, around the post, then down and out the lowest (4th) hole, which is inline. I can still use the top tension and bobbin tension springs to fine tune the knots. IHTH.
  10. You can add a custom signature to the bottom of your posts by going to your profile and clicking on "Edit Profile." The signature field is on the bottom of the page. Some accounts have the signature field under Settings instead of Edit Profile. You get there by clicking in your Profile on the down arrow next to your small profile photo in the upper right corner, then select Settings. It will be in the left sidebar under Account Settings. You can use some HTML/rich text and even upload a photo to your signature.
  11. Why don't you head on over to the 3D Printers and Lasers forum and start a new topic there?
  12. hand wheel - balancing wheel difference

    I have owned two Union Lockstitch machines. The driving wheel on the back weighs about 50 pounds. I called it a flywheel.
  13. No comment of the 15 class clone, other than the presser foot, which is a roller foot. Good luck! The Singer 31-15 is a tailoring machine. Yours is missing a lot of parts. It must be set in an industrial sewing machine table that has a 7" x 17" cutout, four rubber corner pads, hinges and hinge mounts for the head, a tilt back peg, an oil pan, a parts drawer, a knee lever for a 31-15 and a floor pedal with a motor linkage, plus a clutch or servo industrial sewing motor rated at between 1/3rd and 1/2 horsepower, with a 2" pulley. Additionally, the table to will need a thread stand, flex lamp and bobbin winder. I believe that you can buy an entire table setup for your machine for about $350, plus shipping. Upgrading to a servo motor will add another $50 or more over a clutch motor. Considering how many parts are missing from the 31-15 head, you could buy a reconditioned sewing machine for what you are going to have to put into this one. Even if you totally rebuild this machine and buy a table for it, the poor thing will still be a tailoring machine. It can only sew a few ounces of soft leather, and only up to #69 bonded thread.
  14. Crazy stitching

    Ah yes, the old thread stub trick.
  15. Crazy stitching

    @Clintock Try this. Pull the top thread out of the second hole in the top post and just run it through one hole. Then loosen the screw on the thread loop in front of the tension disks and push it as far down as it can go, then lock it in place. The rational is that by lowering the thread guide it will feed the disks from a greater downward angle, better securing the thread inside the disks. Pay attention to whether the disk separator is interfering with the full closure until you lift the feet. It should not push them open at all until you lift them, nor should the point hit the thread as it feeds down to the roller disk. Resetting the tensions means remembering how tight they were when you got the machine. Just set the bobbin tension for a moderate pull (not too tight, nor too loose), then balance the knot position with the upper tension nut. You can play with the bottom roller tension to see if it makes any difference. But, to have any tensioning affect, it needs at least 1.5 full turns before it exits over the pin. Anything less and the thread will just slide around the roller disk.