• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Wizcrafts

  • Rank
    Leatherworker.net Regular

Contact Methods

  • MSN
  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Burton, Michigan, USA
  • Interests
    Leather work, sewing and sewing machines

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Handgun holsters, tooled belts, custom made to order items, sewing, alterations, repairs
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Google search

Recent Profile Visitors

34,588 profile views
  1. Help! I'm reaching the end of my tether!

    First of all, buy a pack of new needles in the correct "system:" 29x3 or 29x4, or 135x16 or 135x17. These have the correct length from stem to stern. The wrong length would impede feeding. While these are on order remove the needle and adjust for the best possible feeding of 8 ounces of leather. The foot should pull back then lift off the leather as the needle bar moves up and down down. The lift is determined by a sliding block that rides along the end of the leaf pressure spring. There must be enough pressure applied by that spring to hold the foot down as the needle ascends to for stitches. Too little and the leather will lift with the needle, causing skipped stitches. Too much and the leather will have deep marks and you'll stress out the ancient mechanism. Lower the stitch length adjuster gib with the foot lifted up all the way via the hand lift lever on the back. This is the longest stitch length setting. You can verify if your needle is the correct length by opening the throat plate sideways, rotating the hand wheel (c.c.w.) and watching the hook as it passes the needle clockwise, then reverses and intersects it about 3mm above the eye. The needle should go all the way down, make a slight upward jog, halt for the hook's arrival, then continue lifting. If the needle is too short, the hook may never intersect it above the eye as it makes its jog.
  2. Needles And Threads

    Kevin; You will probably get more answers if you start a new topic in this section of the forum, rather than adding to an old pinned topic that has nothing to do with your brand of machine. There are several Landis owners here that can assist you. Just start a new topic.
  3. To add to my last reply, knife sheathes need stronger thread than an upholstery grade machine can handle. I use #277 on the top and bottom for sheathes and holsters up to 3/8 inch thick, then move up to #346 for anything thicker. Upholstery machines max out with #138 thread (22 pounds test). Here is a thread and needle chart that defines the sizes and how they work together.
  4. Unless a dealer has experience with real leather sewing machines, they will try to sell you an upholstery grade machine as a "leather sewing machine." As far as this forum is concerned, this is a real leather sewing machine for knife sheathes and holsters. Compare its specs with those of the machines you have been looking at. The differences should be obvious. I consider this an entry level real leather sewing machine. To answer your question about adding a walking foot to a non-walking foot machine, NO. A sewing machine is either a walking foot machine, needle feed machine, or bottom feed machine. While walking foot machines come in several flavors, they all have three bars coming down and two alternating feet, as opposed to just two bars and one foot on a straight stitch machine.
  5. PFAFF 1245 tensioner issue

    I never said anything about the thread size a #18 needle fits. That would be #69 (T70) bonded nylon. I was in fact replying to Shoepatcher's comment.
  6. Yet another question

    Most of the good quality hemmers are designed to fit onto full size industrial machines. The right angles binders that do inside curves require a special presser foot set and a throat plate with a cutout for the mouth of the folder. Some even have a special feed dog that goes with the set. Chances are somewhere between null and void that anything like that will fit your portable walking foot machine. I think your best bet is to contact Sailrite and see what they can sell you that they have for their portable machines (LS and LZ series).
  7. I have to agree with Katit here. I too have servo equipped machines without reducers and it is sometimes hit and miss with using my foot alone to stop dead up or down. That means I have to use the hand wheel to find the perfect rotational place . A needle positioner would speed things up by letting one sew fast, do a motion to affect the needle's position at the stop, then either pull out or resume sewing. The machines that have 3:1 reducers are hard to turn by hand unless the brakes are removed from the servo motors. Clutch motors are easier to hand crank for precise needle placement.
  8. PFAFF 1245 tensioner issue

    Once you get down to a size 18 needle the point isn't so important and can affect the lay of the thread. The way I decide on a point change is if the needle makes an unpleasant noise, or squeaks going into the leather. That tells me that the friction is excessive. I keep three types of point in stock: round, DI (triangle) and slicing (LL or LR). Some points go through with less drag than others. Experiment!
  9. Help with info on unknown machine

    There is a coil spring inside the head, around the presser bar. You need to push down on the bar to get more pressure and hold it down until the locking collar secures it in place. This is a domestic sewing machine for cloth. This forum is for discussing industrial leather sewing machines.
  10. Help with info on unknown machine

    If it is, as I suspect, a clone of the Singer 15-90, it can likely sew 1/4 inch of cloth and about 1/8 to 3/16 inch of soft to medium temper veg-tan leather or vinyl. Seeing as how this is a drop feed machine, it will need help to pass leather under the foot. There are two ways to accomplish this: a roller equipped foot or a Teflon foot. While Teflon feet are easy to find and cheap, they mark easily and will be chewed up if one comes in direct contact with the feed dog.
  11. Union lockstitch in action

    Unbeknownst to many used to modern sewing machines, the Union Lockstitch machines can be adjusted to lay down the tightest stitches in the World, followed by Campbell-Randall Lockstitch machines. The take-up mechanism is capable of locking the top thread 100% near the top of the upstroke. It is usually also set to a certain amount of lift to position the knots in the dead center of the layers.
  12. New guy and Singer 31-15

    You can read the specifications for the Consew 206R, here.
  13. Union lockstitch in action

    That Union Lockstitch is music to my ears. I've owned two so far and sold both of them off. I wouldn't be surprised if I end up with one more.
  14. PFAFF 1245 tensioner issue

    Yep. Thread through all of the holes.
  15. Luberto Wyndham Cub

    Try to locate Tony Luberto. He might be willing to build one for you. Or, he may have one left from the final run.