Wizcrafts

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About Wizcrafts

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    Burton, Michigan, USA
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    Leather work, sewing and sewing machines

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  1. I called my Cowboy dealer, Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, and asked about the synchronized binder for the CB4500. Bob said he may have to contact CowboySew in China directly about them. I have dibs on the first one he imports! There are a lot of details about binders that aren't obvious from watching a video. I once had a custom binder made to lay double folded tape over the edges of honeycomb vinyl safety vests for road workers. It cost just under $500 in 1988. Off the shelf binders/folders did not work properly.
  2. CowboySew/Hightex has a synchronized, wide mouth binder attachment set for the CB4500. I've seen videos of it, but don't know who, if anybody carries it in North America or Australia. It doesn't look cheap though.
  3. There aren't any commercially available. You would have to hire a machine shop to make them for you. The 441 and its clones have very few presser feet to choose from.
  4. Union vs. Cylinder Arm?

    I looked at the Union Lockstitch machine in the CL ad and it is immaculate compared to most I've seen or owned. I saw a manual/parts list and a threading rod. The seller didn't show any other accessories, like bobbins, needles, awls, or the proprietary adjustment tools. If missing, they could be purchased from Campbell Randall, in Texas. They now own the Union Lockstitch brand and all parts.
  5. Union vs. Cylinder Arm?

    I would definitely NOT recommend a Union Lockstitch as a first sewing machine, unless the seller (or somebody else nearby who owns one) is able to give you some instructions on its use. In this case, it appears they cannot do that. Proceed at your own risk.
  6. Compression spring for Ferdco Pro 2000

    This is a 441 clone. It will likely take the same foot pressure spring as a Cowboy CB4500.
  7. Tension

    Aw shucks; it twern't nuthin'
  8. Yep, those screws secure the presser bar in position. Try raising the feet with the hand lift lever and see if you can get a screwdriver into the hole for one screw and under the hole for the other. If you can't get a bead on the screws, remove the 3 big screws and pull off the crank shaft.
  9. Help needed with Singer 331K4

    I just looked at a picture of a Singer 331k4 and see that the check spring is simply attached to the same shaft as the tension disks. The spring itself could be rusting. It is not too hard to replace with a screw driver and some smarts.
  10. Help needed with Singer 331K4

    Debbie; Sorry for being late to notice this post. I play music on the weekends and don't get to sleep before 3 or 4 am. Your thread must be picking up rust off something along the way, between the thread spool and the needle. Start troubleshooting by unthreading and inspecting the thread itself. If good, move along as follows, inspecting each piece of metal for rust. Check the thread guide on the thread stand Check the top post if you thread through it. Inspect the three hole thread guide before the top tension disks. Unscrew the tension nut and remove the top tension spring, opener and disks. Chances are this is where you'll find rust and maybe even grooving from long term usage. If the disks are okay, run a length of white thread through the check spring assembly (under the top tension disks). If that assembly isn't the cause of the rust, it's better left alone. The next item to inspect is the take-up lever. Run clean thread back and forth and see if it picks up rust (hope not). After that, look at the few thread guides going down, then the last guide on the needle bar. Last, check the needle for a rusty eye! If you find a part that is rusted, and it is easily replaced (e.g., top tension disks or thread guides), replace it. If it is in a difficult location, try using rust remover where it is rusting. If the hole in the take-up lever is the culprit, have a dealer replace it for you, unless you care to undertake a very difficult task.
  11. Tension

    Your high top tension is causing the click on the take-up cycle. You can reduce or eliminate this by backing off both the top and bottom tensions, re-balancing the knots, and increasing the amount of slack in the top thread, via the check spring bottom stopper. The less downward travel, the greater the slack. Moving the check spring frame counterclockwise also feeds more thread to the take-up lever. But, don't give it too much slack or the needle will catch and pierce the top thread. If none of this helps, the machine might be slightly out of sync between the top and bottom shafts. The easiest way to see if this is true is to remove the cover from the hook and bobbin area, hand wheel a stitch and stop with the take-up lever at BDC. At that position the thread should be half way around the bobbin case. If the thread hasn't made it half way, the timing is retarded. If it is past half way, it is advanced. If your machine has a rubber or cloth belt connecting the top and bottom shafts, it could be out by one tooth. Or, the hook might need to be moved to advance or retard the timing to get the thread half way around at BDC. Retiming the hook may require adjusting the needle bar to get the eye at the correct distance below the oncoming hook.
  12. You have to lower the presser foot bar to get the short foot to hit the leather and cause the inside foot to alternate. The bar needs to come down about 1/8 to 3/16 inch. I created a topic all about this foot set, including a video, under the topic: Inline Cowboy presser feet on Cowboy CB4500
  13. Any Cowboy machine dealers near New Jersey?

    There is another Cowboy dealer a little closer to you. He operates as Neel's Saddlery, in North Lima, Ohio. His days, hours and phone number are on the bottom of each page. The owner's name is Ryan. It looks like you could take I-80 right there.
  14. What is the best 29k

    I recommend that later models of Singer and Adler patchers. I have (and will sell) a long arm, big bobbin Singer 29k172. It has universal feed (as do all patchers), takes up to #138 thread and has an 18 inch long arm with a narrow snout. I also have an Adler 30-7, which is similar, but lifts higher and sews a little thicker. The only real difference between the two machines is that the Adler 30-7 takes a much longer needle system, 332 LLG, than the Singer 29 machines. Also, I was fortunate enough to get the Adler on a power stand, whereas the Singer is on a treadle base. This is a photo of the Singer 29k172 (one of the last model 29k, made in Japan).
  15. Tension

    Take off the top tension assembly. Check the hole in the head for a steel rod that is pushed towards the front when you lift the presser foot lever, or foot pedal. The rod should protrude out of the head and move at least 1/16" (more is better) when the feet are lifted all the way. If the rod is missing, order a replacement. If the rod exists and moves forward with the lifting of the feet, go to note 1. If it exists, but doesn't move forward, troubleshooting needs to happen on the back of the machine (report back here). The top tensioner assembly probably has a flat piece of bent steel that pivots against a screw on the back side of the assembly. When the rod moves forward with the lifted feet, the tip should make contact with the bent steel bracket and it should push towards the front, moving a little narrow steel pin, inside the split shaft, that separates the tension disks. If the rod isn't moving enough to engage the bracket, bend the bracket towards the body of the machine, until it just clears the tip of the rod, with the feet down. Lifting it should cause the bracket to push the little pin and separate the disks. If the pin inside the split shaft is missing (lost on the floor, or not shipped), order a replacement. You may also need the little steel piece that slides over the split shaft and gets hit by the moving pin.