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About Wizcrafts

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    Burton, Michigan, USA
  • Interests
    Leather work, sewing and sewing machines

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Handgun holsters, tooled belts, custom made to order items, sewing, alterations, repairs
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  1. Which sewing machine ?

    Metwar would be a German brand name from yesteryear (Metwar is now Groz Beckert). #200 is the same as a US #25 needle. It is the size needed to sew with #277 bonded thread, or 4 cord linen thread, top and bottom.
  2. My understanding of Floyd's reply is that while Adler walking foot machines are among the cream of the crop for upholstery use, few if any working upholstery shops can afford them, especially when equipped with the extra electronics panels shown in the OP's photos. NB: In my younger days I learned how to program a Hewlett Packard calculator that used Reverse Polish Notation input. That's how I am able, at the tender age of 70.5, to decipher this type of text. I use the same side of my brain to decipher spam messages containing what's known in the spam-filter trade as "salad words" that are meant to throw off spam filters.
  3. Pfaff 545 H4 Best Feet for veg tan leather?

    See if you can find an authorized Pfaff dealer. They will know what feet and feeders are available for your 545. Gregg at Keystone Sewing knows a lot about most makes and models of industrial sewing machines, as does Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines.

    The LU-1508NH is rated to handle #207 thread with up to a #24 needle. Load it with #207 thread, top and bottom, and a #23 leather point needle to start. If it skips stitches on test pieces add more foot pressure. If knots are showing on the bottom add more top thread tension. If it won't sew with that combination, try a #24 leather point needle. If that doesn't work you made a mistake. Try to exchange it for a heavy duty leather sewing machine that can handle at least #277 thread. If they won't take the machine back, sew your holsters with two parallel rows of #138 thread, 1/8 inch apart. Start on the lower outside then work your way around the inside and join the lower outside stitch line, over lapping about 4 or 5 stitches. Try to hit the same holes as you overlap. Alternately, double stitch #138 into the same holes with a #23 needle. Start about 1/2 inch from the bottom, sewing down in reverse, then sew forward to the top, then reverse all the way to the bottom. This should give the strength of #207, or even #277 thread as long as you hit the same holes all the way. You may need more thread pressure as you double stitch. This assumes that the machine has been properly setup to match the stitch length in forward and reverse. FYI: #138 bonded nylon thread is rated at no more than 22 pounds breaking strength (too marginal for serious holsters). #207 increases it to about 32 pounds (marginal). #277, the recommended size for 1/4" to 3/8" pancake holsters, is rated at 44 or 45 pounds test. Once I hit 1/2 inch I use #346 thread (53 pounds test). Note: Sewing with a larger thread on top and a size smaller in the bobbin reduces the breaking strength of the stitches to that of the smaller thread.
  5. Pfaff 545 H4 Best Feet for veg tan leather?

    You will want totally smooth feet for the top and the softest points on the feed dog, or knurled, or smooth, if available (not likely). You only need teeth to move cloth and banners, or slippery materials. Teeth mark leather. You can reduce the marks on the bottom by backing off the foot pressure.
  6. Singer 29K Tension Issues

    Yeah, new parts cast in the Orient almost never have the same dimensions as the originals made in precision Singer manufacturing plants.
  7. White rotary

    This machine is friction driven by a tiny rubber wheel on the spring loaded motor that presses against the flywheel. It slips under the slightest resistance at the needle. This is the antithesis of a leather sewing machine. Strictly for soft cloth items.
  8. What is this machine? 168w101

    There should be a hand lift lever on the back, plus a chain foot lifter on the steel floor bar, next to the GO pedal. The mechanism is based on the Singer 111w153 and uses the same parts inn the head.. Maybe the attached PDF will help you out. It's all I've got for this machine. 168w101.pdf
  9. What is this machine? 168w101

    I have a Singer 168w101 and use it a lot. I just finished sewing a motorcycle seat with it. I started with #207 thread on the thickest seams, then moved down to #138 on thinner seams and the padded diamond patterns. These machines can sew up to 3.5 stitches per inch. If you don't want it send it to me!
  10. Needle Question for my Consew machine

    DPx17 = 135x17 = SY3355, which is a standard geometry walking foot machine round point needle. This system is used to sew cloth and vinyl, but not leather. The leather points are System 135x16 and are made in several different styles, including LL, LR, Di and S point. Each produces its own stitch line and appearance. Most sewing machines purchased off eBay, or from upholstery shops, or Craigslist sellers come with round point needles, for cloth.
  11. Some Pfaff parts are very expensive over here. Others not so much. There are Pfaff dealers in the USA who can probably get prices for you on those parts.

    I modified a National walking foot machine to use system 190 needles and found that when I used #18 needles (sewing leather and suede rifle slings) they were very easily deflected and bent/broken. I went back to using the default system 135x16 needles and the deflection was all but eliminated. If you buy a machine setup for system 190 needles, try to stick with needles above #19/120 which calls for #92 thread. You can use #18 needles and #69 thread as long as the layers don't move or have anything in or on them that might deflect the long needle.
  13. Are you aware that Strima is in Poland and that shipping may be expensive to the USA? You may have to meet a minimum price in the cart to order overseas and outside the EU.

    I saw this machine in the Cowboy showroom at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. It is called the CB243. It has the same capacities as the cylinder arm CB4500, but is a flatbed machine on a 20" x 48" table with a servo motor and speed reducer under the table. It definitely sews 1/2 inch and then some with thread sizes up to #415. Adler used to make an extra heavy duty flatbed walking foot machine called the 204-374. I had one for a short time in 2011. It sewed a solid half inch of leather with #277 thread and a #25 needle. But that was about all it could penetrate despite lifting high enough to sew 3/4. If equipped with a 3:1 speed reducer this machine would be suitable for flat holsters, heavy straps and other items 1/2 inch thick. Singer used to make an extra heavy spring foot walking foot machine called the 132k6. It maxes out at 1/2 inch and can handle #346 thread. But, that's pushing it. It is best limited to #277 thread with a #25 needle. All of the above are extra heavy duty machines that use huge needles that move extra thick thread. But, if you can get by with #207 bonded thread, a Juki LU-1508NH can sew just about 1/2 inch using system 190 needles (Requires dealer to set it up for this needle system). It wasn't made to sew holsters, just extra thick things that aren't necessarily dense. A photo of the machine on the Juki product page shows it sewing a moccasin type padded slipper.
  15. The Sailrite Ultrafeed machines are good for about 1/4 inch, or 16 ounces of combined leather or vinyl. The maximum thread size is #92 (T90) bonded nylon or bonded polyester, which only has 15 pounds breaking strength. It will not safely sew a holster that can withstand any serious force on the gun. Quarter inch thick pancake holsters need to be sewn with #277 bonded thread (44 pound test per stitch), for security against stress on the stitch lines, which is way beyond the capacity of a Sailrite. You will need to look at harness and holster machines that are built to handle such heavy thread and the huge needles they require and extra strong pressure and tension springs that tension and pull up very strong thread into very dense leather. As for portable heavy stitchers, there is the Cowboy Outlaw, the Tippmann Boss (both hand cranked), and the Artisan Toro 3200BT bench mounted motorized heavy stitcher. You can also sew holsters with a sole stitcher, like the Junker & Ruh sole stitcher or a Gritzner or Frobana hand cranked sole stitcher (rarer than hen's teeth)