Ferg

Contributing Member
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    1,780
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About Ferg

  • Rank
    Leatherworker.net Regular
  • Birthday 01/21/1934

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.donet.com/~avw/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southwestern Ohio
  • Interests
    Anything I can do with my hands and mind

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Everything that is unusual
  • Interested in learning about
    everything
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Web

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. I use the Velcro with adhesive already on the back side of both pieces. I cut the strips 3" long, they are 3/4" wide. I have actually removed the Velcro after some weeks from the leather as well as the plastic case. Mostly to see what damage was done to either which was very little. Ferg
  2. I get the plastic cases to fit whatever phone. Use velcro to attach the plastic to the leather inside. Never moves and you can take the phone out anytime you wish and snap it back in. My leather case has a partial "Wrap-Around" with a snap. Leather case protects the entire phone when closed, everything accessible when open. Ferg
  3. This is strictly an observation. I don't like the end of a strap "hanging" from a fixture. They get caught on everything plus I feel they look unfinished. A clever leather loop with some little decorative flourish will hold that strap better. Ferg
  4. There seems to be a lot of these with a little different configurations "Out there". I have three or four different applicators, a couple just like the Tandy that I received free. The tapered Tandy style is the best in my opinion. I can do the edges of a complete dog harness in 20 minutes or less, that is one application of material. I do a sealer plus two coats of finish. I do not use the heated edge units. I think my edges are as good or better than some I have seen done with them. Just my .02 Ferg
  5. You might be held to "Allibaba" for those. Ferg
  6. You can likely get a small blade to fit one of your knives, wouldn't need to buy the handle. I began leather work almost 65 years ago although I didn't continue it all that time. Marriage, babies, business other than leather. lol I used the method above all the time then when I got on the forum I tried some of the other ways, they just didn't work for me. Hope this works for you. Ferg
  7. stormdevil I want you to try this method of tempering your leather. Soak a trial piece in warm water until the bubbles stop. Using an old terry cloth towel roll the towel around the leather allowing it to roll with the towel. If you do this in the evening, wait until next evening to unroll towel and leather. Leather should lay flat without any problems. The leather should appear like pie dough in texture. If you press a finger tip into it, you should have an impression. That is when it is ready to carve. I have never tested any of my swivel knives with cutting paper. The bevels on the blade should be exactly the same angle. When doing fine work you should use a blade that is relatively thin and about 1/4" in width and angled not straight. Strop the blade after you make several cuts. Do that continuously while doing the design. You should find that the thinner and narrower blades will work better with lots of stropping. BTW: Don't put the towel in the fridge. Leave the roll lay on your work bench or similar area in normal temperature and humidity. Please let me know if this helps with your situation. Ferg
  8. Gump, I think you are going to get some flack on that statement. These oils are not the same and 3 in 1 oil will gum up a sewing machine even if you have been lucky enough to use it with no problems you know of. Ferg
  9. Eric, When I got out of the Navy I worked for a remanufacturing company for electronic radio equipment for the government. We ran out of little "disc" capacitors one time. I checked the specs and went to my electronics supplier. The non-government capacitor was .0001 mfd. different than government issue which wouldn't be available to us for possibly several months due to manufacturing difficulties. The government would not allow us to use what was available locally in the thousands, simply because it wasn't exactly the same. Capacitors used in electronic equipment in those days could be within 100%. Oh Yeah, I could buy them for a tenth what this company was paying for them. BTW: Semi Trucks hauled radio gear into the Airplane Hangar we occupied, 50,000 pieces at a time. Most had a single power resistor burned out. They would only allow us to repair a certain number of them each day. Ferg
  10. I might be missing something here, your response to danielw88 was way off base. Ferg
  11. Keep in mind, if anyone says they want the machine before July, it will be sold. Thanks for your interest. Ferg
  12. Mark842 Looks as though I would have to have $200 - $225 to ship to you. That doesn't include Insurance. I gave $1500 for the machine, you would still be getting deal. lol
  13. Mark842, This machine weighs about 90 pounds without the table and servo. It would need to be "Crated" and packed with impact resistant foam board. That also means I would need to break the legs/table down and pack them separately. Since I have no idea what your area code is I can't give you a figure on the shipping. I will help you all I can, shipping these things is expensive. Ferg
  14. I have used the skiver for 1.5mm to 2mm plus much heavier veg tan. The thicker leathers may need to be run through more than once. The Cowboy and several others are identical except for the name on them. LOL No one should tell you that learning to use a power skiver is easy. Not for the faint of heart. Your eventual results will make a believer out of you. If you do not have a good supply of scrap leather to practice with, go to a Tandy store and buy a bag of same. Chrome tanned as well as veg tan. Ferg
  15. Yes it is.