Art

Moderator
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About Art

  • Rank
    Marketplace and Adult Area Moderator & Sewing Machine Expert
  • Birthday 12/04/1948

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Maryland, U.S.A.
  • Interests
    Knifemaking, Gunsmithing, Machining, Sharpening

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Gunleather, MC, BDSM & Fetish gear
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Johanna

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  1. First left handed skiver I have seen. Flip the picture maybe? Art
  2. If your going to use power tools, and even some non-power tools, you are going have to get used to being around power cutting equipment, and grinding equipment, and stitching equipment, etc. Fore blade metallurgy, I would go with some bi-metal format. Soft stainless or carbon steel for the body and a hardenable long lasting stainless or high tech steel for the edge. But you can't make the blades too good or you won't sell that many of them. Art
  3. Well, we cheat a little. We've made up several mandrels to hold the blade, quite similar to ones for small buffs. Blade in mandrel, mandrel in lathe (you could use a drill or a drill press) and apply the stones to the spinning blade. Careful, these blades are seldom balanced and if you spin them up too far and too fast, they will come apart. Can you say shrapnel? Again, a sharpie marked edge will indicate when you need to stop. Art
  4. For those of us who have run a couple of miles of leather through one of these things, this is probably already the case, at least on the one presser foot we use all the time; does anyone use the other ones? We had/have (if you can find it you are a better, or more tenacious person than anyone here is) an old Consew that looked like it had a chrome plated foot on the contact side. Judging by the way the bearings and clutch rattled, you could probably go coast to coast with the length of leather it had eaten. Of course, we bought it second hand and replaced only the worn down bell knife. It was quiet enough that it was always left running. It had ball or needle bearings, most of them (even the Chinese ones) do. Art
  5. If it is a Neil Cooper G-1 from the '90s, it is made of goatskin, they pretty much use cow on all the contracts after that. I would call the company and see if they can give you a patch piece that matches your jacket. They still make this Jacket for the fashion industry, cost is about $300. Take the jacket down to safety equipment and see if they will sew it on for you, and your wings while they are at it. A case of beer wouldn't hurt. It is then a regulation repair. Art
  6. Hotter than the hinges on the door to hell here, but finally some rain to cool it off a bit. Isn't it supposed to be winter down your way, it should be raining or snowing. Art
  7. I'll stick with 1" for a clutch motor, and some of my servos are set-up that way too. Never a problem, 1" isn't much given the length of belt. Art
  8. A letter and drawings etcetera, time and date stamped in your lawyers files might be a little better, but if someone applies for a patent for the same thing, the patent will win. There are many stories of he who got to the patent office first, e.g. Elisha Gray vs. Alexander Bell. Art
  9. Hi Ray, You gotta put a picture up. Or many pictures. And a price. Art
  10. The Chinese skivers are not too bad. The German ones are a little better put together, and if I was running one all day every day, it would be German. I have a Chinese top and bottom feed skiver. This machine is really great on veg tan. The bottom feed models are great on chrome tan and soft veg. The bottom feeds have presser feet and three are supplied, and it isn't terribly hard to make special ones. The top and bottom feed models use a roller presser foot and custom ones are rather technical (hence pricey), but with the skiving we do the one provided works great. Son does garment and cosPlay work on it and he has no trouble doing chrome tan. If I were to modify the one I have, I would put a second motor on, or a clutch setup to continuously run the bell knife and intermittently run the feed. The two motor system would allow for variable speed on the feed although, we run the feed full bore all the time. It is necessary to have a sharp and well adjusted blade for optimal operation. It takes a good long time to grind the knife. It can take 5 minutes to sharpen a dull knife; I use the sharpie method, take a good bite with the wheel and just let it run until it stops making any grinding noise, then shut it off and see that all the sharpie mark is gone. Put the sharpie around the whole knife edge and remove all of it. Don't get sloppy and put sharpie in a huge wide strip, just the edge. If your first sharpening doesn't remove all of the sharpie, repeat until it does. After the sharpening, use a hone you can get from Osborne or Wolff Industries, red is fine, white is extra fine. You could sharpen a 1953 Packard bumper with the stick they provide with the machine. All you want to do to the back of the edge is to remove any burr, you are not sharpening anything. If you can't get the hone into the knife or it causes some trepidation, tie the hone to a stick (the hone I referenced is 4 inches long). The hones are inexpensive, around $6 or so. Lastly, move the bell knife in so the edge is right next to the feed wheel. The front portion of the feed wheel will be under the edge of the bell knife, but not touching. Adjust the feed wheel until it skives the way you want. I think there is a setup video by Campbell-Randall or Shoe School on youtube. After it skives the way you want, leave it alone, or make minute adjustments as required. Art
  11. Gregg is correct about the belt situation. About an inch of deflection with a moderate push sets things up just right. Now with today's servo motors, a 1/2 inch is ok too. In the days of the clutch motor (probably still that way in factories) you would back off the brake and set the belt loose. A lot of folks used the balance wheel and their hand as a kind of brake so they liked the belt tension sometimes a little looser than nominal. You're not going to hurt much setting the machine up a little loose, but setting tight enough to load the bearings other than the bare minimum is not going to be great. After a while working with machines, they have a particular sound when the belts are too tight. Art
  12. When I spray, I go 50/50 or more (more DEA). You can build up a weak dye by spraying again, you can't undo heavy dye concentrations very well. For stuff that gets heavily used, I use drum dyed and specify struck thru (which are 10 sides minimum). Spray dyed or airbrushed are not durable and scratch off easily. For DIY durable dyeing, go with dip, you can use weak solutions and leave it in longer to get it struck through. You can also do it as many times as needed to get the color you want. Art
  13. Not always a years wait. Go to a show that Bob is attending or go to one of his classes, or if you know what you want, just phone him. At a show like Rocky Mountain Leather Trade Show in Sheridan Wyoming, IFoLG in Columbus Ohio 2016, Southwest Leather show in Prescott Arizona in 2017, The Boot and Saddlemakers Roundup in Wichita Falls Texas, The TCAA or The CSMA shows maybe, Again Maybe the Pendleton Leather Show. Bob makes other venues too, check with him. Bob usually has common product at the shows for sale, and any class he teaches he will have tools for sale necessary for the class. Bob is dynamite good people, and a better friend you couldn't want. Art
  14. A 1000/6000 King water stone should do the trick, get it on Amazon. Art
  15. It will come with time. Leatherworker.net helps a lot in the knowledge arena. Another test is to cut a strip and put a match to it. Veg tan doesn't burn all that well and will go out when the match is removed. Chrome tanned will smolder and ember burn a lot after the match is removed, After the fire, if you rub the burned end of the veg tan on a white piece of paper (copier scrap works fine) it will trace black, whereas chrome tan will trace a greenish color. Most of us can tell by feel what it is, and on some things, most of us can be fooled. Art