• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Art

  • Rank
    Marketplace and Adult Area Moderator & Sewing Machine Expert
  • Birthday 12/04/1948

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Maryland, U.S.A.
  • Interests
    Knifemaking, Gunsmithing, Machining, Sharpening

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Gunleather, MC, BDSM & Fetish gear
  • How did you find

Recent Profile Visitors

27,215 profile views
  1. Someone needs it more than me. Art
  2. I've been with LW since Caesar was a Corporal, and the way we used to do it was send someone in need something and tell them to pay it forward. Never any strings attached. Hell, a couple of times I sent someone down on their luck a C-note and never even got a thank you, but then I didn't need one, it was not the spirit in which it was given. I guess when someone says they need something, they really need it. Yes, there are all sorts of avenues for abuse, but what goes around comes around. Art
  3. Bonded Whiskey is generally a good thing; Bonded Leather, not so much. Real leather comes in hides and sides, Bonded Leather comes on rolls. Leather Seats are now "Standard" in even some of the least expensive cars, a leather sofa made from real skins costs as much as my first new car; I'm Old. Art
  4. The hollow grind on the flat (well not after you hollow grind it) portion of the blade is not only to reduce drag, but to be easier to attain the flat geometry along the full length of the cutting edges. This is necessary because the edges meet, and any high points in the flat would cause the edges to pull apart. The joint area or ride is where the geometry is established and this is carried all along the ride line. The ride line (along the edge) can be anywhere from 1/32 inch to approaching almost the full blade (to the halfway point on both sides). The more the blade is sharpened, the more the ride lines will approach the middle aka a flat ground blade. At this point there is little metal left to re-establish another hollow. This can be 15 or more years for good scissors with good steel, getting 5 years from a cheap pair may be a little harder to attain. Cheap scissors are made of cheap steel, usually 420, but quite often really south of that. Heat treating at the best with this grade of steel usually is only on the less than HRc 55 and often below HRc 50. Usually when sharpening these, if there are dings that have to be removed, they are usually quite pronounced, and a lot of metal has to be removed to get a smooth edge; add to that they have to be sharpened more often, typically twice as often as a quality shear. My Bader and Burr-King have interchangeable contact wheels. I have a 14" that gives a pretty gentle hollow, but the 10" on the Tormek works pretty good also. Nice thing about the belt grinders is the belts, they're available in just about any grit. You can also flat grind and convex grind on the belt grinders, no so much with the Tormek. Art
  5. I have a S-2000 Tormek, which is an older version of the T-7. Got it as a gift around 2001, so I've had it a while and probably know it as well as anyone. It is a great machine although even in 2001 it was quite expensive. The S-2000 and T-7 are made of steel, the T-8 appears to be zinc; ok for a casting, but I'll take real steel anyday. Still good machines. Mine has been updated whenever an update was available so I guess it is really a T-7, though most of the updates were insignificant but of some value. The Tormek is, like all vertical wheels, a hollow grinder. The good thing is that the wheel has a 5 " radius (10" diameter sounds more significant) and doesn't have the pronounced grind of a 2.5 or 3 inch wheel. That being said, the hollow grind (despite the prevalence of the Wolff Twice as Sharp or TAS) is not the grind for stylist/barber and dressmaker shears and scissors. The concave or hollow grind takes a lot of metal from behind the edge, making it less durable but a lot easier to sharpen. The hollow grind is great for hunting knives where sharpening in the field is a pretty distinct possibility. With technical scissors and shears, the flat of each blade is mostly not flat. The blades are hollow ground to eliminate as much drag as possible. Remember mostly? There is an area called the ride back toward the pivot point (screw or ghod forbid rivet) and the ride line along the edge and usually around the back of the blade most of the time meeting up with the ride back at the pivot point. The two blades ride on the ride and the ride line to do the cutting. It is necessary for the sharpener to re-establish the ride lines if the shear is to cut properly. I usually dress the ride with a 5000 grit stone and sometimes follow that with an 8000 depending what the shear is used for and how it will be used to cut. The sharpener has to determine what the stylist cuts (hair texture, wet or dry, and clean/dirty), how they cut, and what they expect from the shear. It is not uncommon for a stylist to have 5 or 6 pairs of shears for different cutting methods. You might use a 35° angle for a pair to do slide cutting, but 45° for a pair that will be blunt cutting most of the time. You will be successful if you can solve problems. As far as training goes, you need to get the training for whatever equipment you will be using. The most expensive machine is not necessarily the best, neither is the cheapest. If the sales spiel for a machine sounds like hype, it is hype. Call some folks who have the machine and check it out. There are a lot of DVDs out there, but most are not free, and please, believe NOTHING you see on youtube. There is some good stuff out there, but there is also some really wrong stuff, and there is NO peer review. Art
  6. The Parkman video is primarily a advertisement piece. Their prospective customers have little desire to sit through the entire shoe making process. All of the nails that are put through the sole and into the last are removed. The nails around the periphery are removed when the welt is sewn to the foundation or insole and upper, the nails are there to hold the tightened upper for sewing. Makers remove the nails in a variety of ways and orders depending solely on their preference. There are usually only two or three nails holding the insole to the last in the middle of the insole. It makes it a whole lot easier to take the last out of the shoe if you remove these, and a whole lot easier to remove these if you haven't sewn on the outsole. Art
  7. I have used the Tritium (it has a pistol grip and trigger but is still just an airbrush). Good solid airbrush, will shoot any water or solvent based paint. It shoots dye fine, but you might want to cut it back pretty far for better color control. That being said, darned near any airbrush will do a pretty good job with dyes, just make sure it has teflon seals, the rubber ones get gooey and stop working quickly with alcohol based dyes (spirit dyes). I have an expensive (by anyone's standard) IWATA, but I mostly use a bunch of VEDA airbrushes that I bought direct from about 4 years ago. No problems with the VEDAs at all. They are also available on eBay now, not the case when I bought mine. Art
  8. Hi Ray, Send it, let me know how much with the shipping or I can send $125 now and you let me know what the shipping is. Art
  9. Let's be fair here. It has been quite a few years since this guy was an apprentice and had to sharpen anything. Also, this video is a demo at a shoe show and he didn't have anything that looked like a stone on his workbench. If that was an abrasive coated steel, then I imagine the knife was a little duller than when he started. That, or for some reason, he was trying to cut the end off the steel. Art
  10. On mine it would just be a matter of finding a clutch that would work with that shaft. If you want to go with two motors, it is a bit easier, just install another motor and hook to the other shaft. I haven't tackled it as it is not high on my list. If Consew (Chinese these days) and Fortuna (German) can engineer it, it won't be a problem, they don't use any secret parts that I know of. Art
  11. Call Barry King, get one of the 96oz mallets. I love mine, it don't bounce, but don't use it on a flimsy table. When I got it from BK years ago it looked big and heavy but now it just does great whacking things. Art
  12. You are not responsible for any fraudulent charges, your bank knows that. Art
  13. You can say that again! Art
  14. I use the long foot that follows the contour of the bell knife. I never change feet, and the best reason is that I probably couldn't find the other feet that came with the Consew (which is the only bottom feed I have). On the top and bottom feed (which is used the most) there's only one foot unless we make a special one, which has never been needed. Art
  15. There might be something to the "better steel back then" theory. Lets face it, steel for making knives, and steel for making tools in general constitutes a very small percentage of the market. Steels that we can obtain today, especially tool steels, have all sorts of stuff in them for all sorts of reasons, almost none of it has anything to do with leatherworking tools. Back in the day, the harness industry was huge and the tool industry to support it was correspondingly large and competitive. The tool manufacturers ordered steel the way they wanted it as opposed to ordering what the steel industry provided them. Do you think any of the leatherworking tools today are forged? If so, they would be very expensive and it would be hard for them to compete in such a small market. Too much trouble, bang out a bazillion of then in China, India, or Pakistan and drop them on the market at a better margin than a well made tool. There are really darned few trades left, and leatherworking isn't one of them. If a trade is big enough, toolmakers will produce a quality product for them, e.g. Klein, Irwin, Knipex, and maybe CSO. Today, toolmakers produce for multiple disciplines if they want to stay in business, it just isn't the good old days anymore. Art