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About Art

  • Rank
    Marketplace and Adult Area Moderator & Sewing Machine Expert
  • Birthday 12/04/1948

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Maryland, U.S.A.
  • Interests
    Knifemaking, Gunsmithing, Machining, Sharpening

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Gunleather, MC, BDSM & Fetish gear
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  1. EVERYBODY uses Lille White oil. It is a 50/50 mix of light and heavy mineral oil, and here is the kicker, no detergents. In the "old" days (Wiz and I will remember this) hydraulic oil was just mineral oil. Nowadays it has detergents and additives, a ton of them to extend the life of the oil and give it better performance characteristics for automatic transmissions and all other hydraulic systems. By the way, ISO 22, the number 22 is just the viscosity of the oil usually in centistrokes (cSt or mm²/s); it is actually ISO 3448 - ISO VG 22. Any wonder why they use just ISO 22? Defrix No.2 oil is just mineral oil blended to Juki's 169 specification, which just happens to be very close to ISO VG 22 AND drum roll, you guessed it SAE No. 2. So as the machinery gets more complex, the specifications must get more precise, but lets face it folks, it is just No. 2 mineral oil. Art And THAT is more than you ever wanted to know.
  2. Don't read this, it is just a midnight xenophobic rant: I guess the old farts like me are hoping that SAE and Imperial measure and sizes will be "What Makes America Great Again". While I have my wish list out, There should be a law that anything exported from or imported into the U.S. should not have any metric measures, fasteners, or doodads in it, and that all packaging can only have English on the boxes and directions. Malt Whiskey from the Spey or the Island (or any of it for that matter) may have whatever the hell they want to put on it, spelled whatever way they desire, with the requirement that I can tell what it is and that they keep making it. While I'm at it, if you want to immigrate, legal, illegal, refugee, or otherwise, you will be speaking fluent English in a year or you are on the next boat outta here. Maybe enough for now. Now folks, that is what I call Hope and Change! Art
  3. People don't want to sell you wood by the cord over here (well at least in Maryland) because it must be stacked at delivery, measure 4' x 4' x 8', and be stacked tight enough that a chipmunk cannot get through it (it's the law). All they want to do is dump it, sometimes where you want it, and charge you for a "truckload". Art
  4. No darling, That would be fell off a truck, which means -- stolen while the truck was unattended. Art
  5. Well, I'm quite proud of yourself too. If you can sharpen a head knife to that degree, to the point that it satisfies you, you have arrived. Art
  6. Not a problem at all, get one from Bob (Toledo) or Gregg (Keystone). Go for more power and a reducer won't be necessary. Ask Bob or Gregg.
  7. When originally produced, these machines were designed for tailors. They are not a heavy duty, or even a medium duty leather machine. They are primarily used today to decorate boot tops. That means they sew a 3-4 oz and sometimes a little more veg tan to a 3-4 oz calf liner. They sew 33 to 46 thread really well and occasionally 69. They are the heavy duty version of the standard sewing machine. This machine would work for bags and wallets given that you keep things on the light side. There is no reverse, you just have to do it "old school". These puppies can run the gamut from tight like new to having clearances you can measure by sound. For close-in and delicate leatherwork, a roller foot is a plus. The modern day equivalent would be something like the Juki 5550. Art
  8. I prefer the Sam Brown studs with the rivet back as they have a profile that I like. An old sharpeners trick is to put a tiny drop of superglue a couple of threads up from the tip of the screw and LET IT DRY. After dry, screw it in and it will hold very well, but can be backed out with some effort. Of course, if you don't care about disassembly, superglue is some great stuff. I mean Loctite Professional Super Glue. Art
  9. The Iwata I have is a good airbrush, but a bit of overkill for spraying dyes. I use it more for Liquitex Ink. For spirit dyes I use the Veda airbrushes from I have the 180s because I like gravity feed, but the 182 is good and about the same but is suction (bottom) feed. If you want to go the trigger route, the 116 is ok, but I have pretty much stuck with the 180. It is really amazing that these are rather good at this price point. Like I said, they are also on eBay and the parts are there too. Ok, I'm going to say it, my Iwata is collecting dust, but I use the Iwata compressor I have all the time and it powers my power engraving equipment too. I went through a bunch of compressors (all on warranty thank ghod) before I got the Iwata but this one is probably overkill for my application. Art
  10. I've had a couple of bottle jack type press/clickers, one hand pump and one air driven bottle jack. The air drive one has been setting for 5 or so years since I got the 10 ton hydraulic. The 10-ton does everything, and does it quick. Really large dies can be done in sections with either type. The 10-ton definitely holds down the garage, neither it or the garage has moved since it got here. I left it on the metal shipping pallet, and if I have to move it, the pallet jack comes in handy. To keep cost down, look to a used one from a reputable dealer, like Campbell-Randall or someone they recommend. The Chinese machines work ok, at least mine does, a used Atom would be good too. Check Craigs List. Art
  11. Someone needs it more than me. Art
  12. I've been with LW since Caesar was a Corporal, and the way we used to do it was send someone in need something and tell them to pay it forward. Never any strings attached. Hell, a couple of times I sent someone down on their luck a C-note and never even got a thank you, but then I didn't need one, it was not the spirit in which it was given. I guess when someone says they need something, they really need it. Yes, there are all sorts of avenues for abuse, but what goes around comes around. Art
  13. Bonded Whiskey is generally a good thing; Bonded Leather, not so much. Real leather comes in hides and sides, Bonded Leather comes on rolls. Leather Seats are now "Standard" in even some of the least expensive cars, a leather sofa made from real skins costs as much as my first new car; I'm Old. Art
  14. The hollow grind on the flat (well not after you hollow grind it) portion of the blade is not only to reduce drag, but to be easier to attain the flat geometry along the full length of the cutting edges. This is necessary because the edges meet, and any high points in the flat would cause the edges to pull apart. The joint area or ride is where the geometry is established and this is carried all along the ride line. The ride line (along the edge) can be anywhere from 1/32 inch to approaching almost the full blade (to the halfway point on both sides). The more the blade is sharpened, the more the ride lines will approach the middle aka a flat ground blade. At this point there is little metal left to re-establish another hollow. This can be 15 or more years for good scissors with good steel, getting 5 years from a cheap pair may be a little harder to attain. Cheap scissors are made of cheap steel, usually 420, but quite often really south of that. Heat treating at the best with this grade of steel usually is only on the less than HRc 55 and often below HRc 50. Usually when sharpening these, if there are dings that have to be removed, they are usually quite pronounced, and a lot of metal has to be removed to get a smooth edge; add to that they have to be sharpened more often, typically twice as often as a quality shear. My Bader and Burr-King have interchangeable contact wheels. I have a 14" that gives a pretty gentle hollow, but the 10" on the Tormek works pretty good also. Nice thing about the belt grinders is the belts, they're available in just about any grit. You can also flat grind and convex grind on the belt grinders, no so much with the Tormek. Art