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About imstephenjones

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  • Location
    Tacoma, WA
  • Interests
    Leather, Whiskey, Rock & Roll

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
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  1. Bought in September. Closed business needing this machine, so selling it to one lucky person who needs it! Images here: V Single Phase29.5″ x 15.75″ Cutting Space3/4″ Nylon Cutting BoardRotating HeadDead Man Switch System1.5 KW ( 2 H.P.) MotorCutting Speed: 0.08 m/sRange of Stroke: 5-75 mm (1/4″ - 3″)#46 Hydraulic OilElectronic Control SystemEura Drive Inverter Box W/Speed Control
  2. leather machinery

    Pneumatic was less powerful, even at a higher ton rating. Hydraulic has been amazing. I haven't had to do any maintenance. Hoping I won't, haha.
  3. leather machinery

    You bet! I picked up a cobra 10 tons clicker. my bad on thinking it was a 15 ton. It's a great machine. I absolutely love it. I previously had the Tipmann 1500, which got the job done. But it isn't nearly as accurate as the Cobra machine. You had to do adjustments on the bottom of the machine (each corner had a set screw that adjusted the height for that area). It was a pain and I ended up selling that for $1500 and picking up the Cobra.
  4. I order as large as 1,000 units and as little as 100 units. The cost is really great. I did work with a company last summer that we used a one way snap for. Heres where they can get spendy - the dies. They have two price points for dies. $70 and $140/ piece. So for snaps I believe it's a hefty investment. I do know what you can manually set these of you don't have the cash to buy the dies. What I do is pierce the material with the side that has the two prongs. I then use an awl to poke two small holes in the side without the prongs. Then I press that piece onto the prong piece and tap them down with a tooling tool and a hammer. This is is what I do for the jean buttons I get from them because I don't use them in large production runs. Just samples for clients so far. They are worth the investment, though. So it's great to start with and then buy the dies when you can afford them. Move even just punched a 1/16" or 1/8" hole (just like the other style snaps) and installed them the same way as mentioned above. You MAY need a business license to get an account with them. I'm not 100% sure. Let me know if you pursue that so I can provide better info in the future.
  5. For sure. Shoot an email to Ed Kelly. He's the man when it comes to explaining their product. They are also insanely easy to work with. They have never mistreated me. I think it would be impossible for them to. I DM'd his email to you.
  6. I've used them in 8-10oz. I've never tested it's limit, since that's the thickest I use.
  7. My recommendation would be calling CH Holderby in Seattle and asking them. They know everything about sewing machines, needles, etc. I'm fortunate to live very close to it. Just be careful. They will chat your ear off and you may loose an hour. But you will learn a lot. I'd recommend getting the type of needle you need and find another source that has them. Ordering on a phone is just - outdated - and super slow.
  8. leather machinery

    Emily, buying used is always the best when it works. I personally buy used 90% of the time. I only buy new when I cannot find it used. I purchased a clicker press from a gal on this forum about 6 months ago. I paid $1800 for a 15 ton machine. The deals are out there. You just have to know where to find them. Google everything you can think of. Look on eBay. Check sold listings. Email the seller and ask if they have another. The hustle will get you what you need at a good price. If you want to buy new and spend an extra $4-6k, then you could do that. But I don't recommend it!
  9. If you haven't worked with YKK directly I would reach out to them. They make an SX series snap that you don't have to pre punch holes. It's amazing. And both sides look great. Give it a google!
  10. I'm appalled at this customer service for a wholesale customer. Wholesale should be based on being a business and trying to make something of yourself. Not how much money you spend. I spend over $150,000 a year on materials and tools. Shouldn't you be fighting for my business instead of pushing people like me away with silly hurdles that make you appear uneasy to work with? Are his $100 not good enough for you? All you have to do is let him have his account and be a happy customer so he can tell his friends about how wonderful Weaver is. Now you've lost him. That's silly business. It's an interesting mindset in a technology driven world. Because now I'm here, pissed at Weaver for treating him this way. I really hope you and your staff rethink this strategy.
  11. I'm. It sure about the needle size to use for 138. I would think 20 would be a good fit. But I would pick up a pack of 21 and 22 just in case. I generally purchase every size, plus and minus 4 from 20 for my machines. It's a good feeling to always have a needle that works for the job. It's the worst when you have to track down a pack of needles because you don't have what you need.
  12. I would grind down the bottom of the foot. I did this a couple years ago on my leather machines and have no issues with marks. I manufacture wallets, so it was necessity. These feet are resilient. I've modded feet many times, and they only seem to work better after I do. Go for it!
  13. I have a Pfaff 1445. It's a beast of a machine. You can turn down the speed on the motor. on the side you should see a dial that will control the speed. I like this machine. I use it as a backup for my Pfaff 1245. Mostly using it for stay stitches on my waxed canvas bags. It can sew through a TON of material. It's basically a 1245 built for the production floor - they wanted a system that could run quick without overheating. They stopped making them because the market wasn't sustaining. I can sew 3/8" of leather on it. Your thread may be breaking because of the tension when you are running through the leather. A size 22 needle is more than enough for T90. I think I'm using a 19. Do you have any other issues you are looking for help on? Would love to get a solid document online with everything we can muster about this machine. Finding any details about it is a real pain in the neck.
  14. Martine, I don't know if these videos will help you or not, but have a look and let me know. I would watch them in order, because the bottom tension should always be set before the top tension. Bottom tension is key to a successful tension all around. I'm going to make videos about other issues and questions people have, so if you have anything you can think of that needs an explanation, let me know!
  15. Sold