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About 480volt

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  1. Do you recall the type of wood? Lignum Vitae has the reputation of being the hardest of hardwoods, so hard that it was the preferred shaft bearing material for ships for a century and is still used for some hydroelectric turbine bearings. I take your point that what is being struck is a factor in lifespan.
  2. I've always wanted to try a lignum vitae maul, an old one made when the wood was commonly available. Anyone have experience with one?
  3. Now that I'm home, this is a front view of the standard foot. Looks like it would be straightforward to machine a new mounting plate to shift the foot to the left or right.
  4. I've never had the opportunity to talk to someone who had had both a #9 and a Pearson. What advantages does the Pearson have?
  5. The reason why there is little information out there and no aftermarket support is that the whole production run of ASE #9s was about 400 units, followed by 60 Classics made by Tony Luberto. I recently acquired a #9 and assumed I'd just machine a left and right toe foot out of solid at some point. Wouldn't have to be elaborate as it's just a jump foot. Moderator Art has a #9, if he has the left and right toe feet, maybe he would post a photo.
  6. If the machine can't be rewired to a different voltage, you may be able to use a buck-boost transformer in front of it.
  7. If you buy this Chinese death trap, at least plug it into a gfci, and never, ever leave it plugged in when you are not monitoring it. Can you rent laser time somewhere, just to see if it does what you want?
  8. Your right, a groove is a groove and how it got there is irrelevant to the finished piece of work. However, speaking for myself, I love beautiful, well made tools and I really prefer to buy them from makers and companies who I hope manage to stay in business. Since what I do is a hobby, and my purchases aren't driven by bottom line, I will spend more on a tool that I just like the esthetics of and that I know will be correctly profiled and sharpened right out of the flat-rate box. That said, the awl I use most is a Tandy that sharpened up ok, and fits my hand well.
  9. Why not ask Nigel Armitage?
  10. I don't put tandy and custom makers like Bob Douglas in the same class at all. If you gotta cut a groove, use a good tool. If you're grooving for stitching, I generally don't do that at all, unless there is a mechanical reason the stitches should be recessed. I prefer a slanted stitch and maybe tap it down if it feels a little too proud from the surface. If you're going to stitch in a groove, the stitches will be straight, but maybe that's the look you want.
  11. I see 31-15 and 31-20 machines get posted locally on CL (sf Bay Area) for 150 to 200. One for sale now, posting has been up for about a month, price has dropped from 200 to 175.
  12. Call or email Bruce, just because he doesn't have one listed doesn't necessarily mean he doesn't have one.
  13. Bruce Johnson or Bob Douglas are a good place to start
  14. "Solid drilled brass rivet" sounds like a term the vendor made up, never heard of any such thing.
  15. I spent a lot of time practicing hand stitching on veg tan scrap, using different stitches-per-inch and different threads, till I felt I had some control over it. You're going to want to make/buy/improvise some kind of stitching pony or clam. Since it's trunks you want to do, Brettun's Village has a site devoted to trunk restoration, and a separate site for leather supplies and tools.