480volt

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About 480volt

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  1. I’d ask Bruce Johnson if he has anything available. Not everything he had is listed on his site. If you buy from him, it will be sharp and polished right out of the box.
  2. Painted corset

    Awesome piece of work, Death-of-Rats!
  3. Knuckle duster

    A 3/4 wood dowel. He didn't want any metal in it TSA proof?
  4. Toad Skin Leather?

    What the heck do you use toad leather for?
  5. Larp Chest Piece and Bracers

    My concern with buckles on vambraces is the potential for a glancing impact on another player. Holding things together with lacing takes the sharp edges out of the equation and gives me more of the "look" that I like. The San Brownes I've used on bag closures and the like, so no real dynamic loading there. I use solid copper or brass rivets on things like sword frogs and d-ring tabs and belt buckles just don't cause problems. We try hard to produce safe, somewhat realistic weapons, and anything you make is subject to approval by the GM, so I tend to be conservative on design. That said, there is more latitude as the players get older; you could probably show up to adult league in full SCA spec plate and nobody would stop you- but you'd still have to use a foam sword...
  6. Larp Chest Piece and Bracers

    Nice to see someone else making gear for LARP. This is one of a pair of vambraces I did for my daughter, they are mirror images of each other. The design is a copy of a Roman Acanthus leaf and it was intended to be subtle. I generally don't use buckles on LARP gear as it can present a hazard to inexperienced players, though I do use Sam Browne studs for closures.
  7. Beeswax for Thread

    I doubt anyone will be able to give you any kind of definitive answer on the long term effects of using lip balm. But why mess around? Beeswax is cheap and easily available, why risk adverse affects in products that should last decades? Personally, I stitch with linen using shoemaker's wax, which is a mixture of beeswax and rosin, as mentioned by Matt S.
  8. new tool bag

    IBEW?
  9. Medieval Helmet pattern help

    Since, presumably, this is to fit your own head, you would likely have to adjust any template that you find. It looks like it would be relatively straightforward to construct a pattern based on cardboard and duct tape (somebody here once referred to this as CAD: Cardboard Aided Design) My pattern making experience is not in leatherwork, but in years of installing vinyl sheet goods, which requires you to understand how to make flat, brittle surfaces do three-dimensional things. That helmet is composed of flat surfaces curved in one plane, maybe some wet molding needed for a few features.
  10. I resize pictures by emailing them to myself, saving them on my i-phone, then resending them back at a reduced size. Don't know if it works the same with an android device.
  11. D&D Costume WiP

    Very nice work!
  12. On the rare occasions I need to wear bags, I like my tape in a holder in front, facing up, where your belt buckle would be. If I'm working overhead, a lot of the time I leave the tape in the holder and just pull out what I need.
  13. Newbie needs advice..

    In case you don't hear it often enough, we users appreciate the thankless task that you moderators perform.
  14. Stitching groover recommendations

    I very rarely groove for stitches, but when I do I use a Douglas Versagroover
  15. Just speaking for myself, I try to buy from makers that I hope will stay in business, price be damned. This is not driven by a "Buy American" mindset, it's driven by the hope that the traditional manufacturers like Blanchard and Osborne don't get driven out of business by low-cost competition. I think the custom makers like Douglas, Beard and many others exist in a niche market that is somewhat insulated from this, and I hope others will fill the void when they retire. Do I own Chinese tools? Of course I do, sometimes I wind up having to buy the odd tool from Tandy. If I were looking for traditional Chinese tools, I'd want them to come from a traditional Chinese maker. If I want really good knives I'd buy Japanese. If I'm looking for tools for leatherwork as I understand it, I want them to come from a traditional maker, with decades or generations of experience. I'm sure Wuta, Amy Roke, etc, are finely made, high quality tools- but I'll never know because I'll never buy 'em. Just my 2c worth