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About MisterSmith

  • Rank
  • Birthday 02/21/1984

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Athens, GA
  • Interests
    Shooting Sports and Outdoors

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
  • Interested in learning about
    Tooling and technique
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Web search

Recent Profile Visitors

746 profile views
  1. Molds/Blue Guns For Sale

    All blue guns have been spoken for. Thanks!
  2. Molds/Blue Guns For Sale

    I have the following molds for sale. Please PM me for your interest; 1st come 1st serve. Only PayPal will be accepted, I will cover the shipping cost. Sig P227 Nitron: $40.00 Glock 19: $40.00 Glock 26: $40.00 Walther PPK/S: $40.00 -Mark
  3. Jo, thanks for he post! I'm in Athens, and would like to attend. When you have it scheduled please post what day it will be. Thanks!
  4. Holster Makers & Safety/Legal Disclaimers

    @CaptQuirk I agree, nothing goes out the door that doesn't meet muster for use for myself or my family, however; there are some dummies out there. I guess do you feel you need to make a statement that "if you're a dummy please educate yourself first before buying/using firearms, and particularly the accessories I make for firearms."? Fortunately, 99.9% of my customer interactions are great. Its that small percent that I look out for.
  5. For all of you who retail your holsters, do any of you have a Firearms Safety Compliance Statement? (Here is DeSantis' http://www.desantisholster.com/safety-compliance) Yes, I should (am) consulting legal counsel, and am not asking for legal advice on this board. I'm more curious as to why or why not you do/don't have one. I'm leary of making any sort of legal claims, but feel that it's a responsibility to promote firearm safety and responsible use of my products. Would love to hear some thoughts. Cheers!
  6. Natural Beeswax ... the last for this year

    @defrensdorff I'll hapilly take brick "D" or "C", just sent a DM. Thanks!
  7. Blue Antique

    Your guess is correct. Acrylics are water soluble. YouTube search "Don Gonzales Saddlery". He has great tips on using acrylic and antique
  8. Fresh Air mask in a well ventilated area when I'm sanding, same thing if i'm spraying resolene or dye.You can get a decent mask and replacement filters for a relative low price at the local hardware giant.
  9. Desk Valet/Catchall

    Here we have a sugar skull and rose desk caddy. I used a meadering boarder along with acryllic paint on the skull and roses, with medium brown antique finish nothing special about the construction. I used 6oz vegtan leather for this project. enjoy!
  10. Valet Tray Prototype

    Great work very beautiful! You'll get great response out of these
  11. OWB Holster

    This ox-blood on black holster is for an M&P Shield. I hand stitched and hand formed this piece.
  12. Buttstock Shellholder for 12ga Uzkon AS40 with Backstrap

    Very clean! Well done.
  13. Where to start: 1911 full size conceal carry

    Dwight and the others had some great advice up there. if youre starting from scratch draw an outline of the pistol on some heavy posterboard, and sketch out your holster design to cut out and use as a template, better to waster cheap poster board than leather. if you're pensive about wet molding around your own, or someone else's firearm I recommend bluegunstore.com for molds. They've never done me wrong and have accurate, hard plastic molds that will stand up to forming leather around them.
  14. Adhesive that can be sewn through?

    I've always had the best luck with Barge cement. Its common with boot and shoe makes, and is typically available at local hardware stores, tandy, and springfieldleather.com
  15. beginner

    Redgold, Since the pattern is already pre-fabricated with established stitch lines; you'll first want to start with burnishing your edges esecially the ones that will not be bonded to any other piece of leather. Next I would "case" the leather that you'll be tooling. I'm assuming the classes at your Tandy store had you wet the leather, transfer your pattern and start tooling once you started to see some natural color re-appear. Thats is fine for small patterns, but once you start tooling larger projects you'll want your leather to maintain even saturation. I recommend this article from Rick Jorgenson (http://jorgensonleather.com/?p=199) I would also read the forum here, and look up some youtube videos. After you've done your tooling and allowed your leather to dry, you may dye your leather. (In the future if you decide to wet form a piece of leather in a project I would save color application for the end) Finally install your hardware, bond & stitch your pieces together, and then give all your finished edges a final burnishing. You can apply leather sheen or Acrylic Resolene to the project for a nice hi gloss finish. The leather in the tandy kits are great for learning and practice, so manage that expectation of your final product. In working with leather, expect to make mistakes, lots of them. Chalk those up to learning, and use them to help refine a process that you feel works best; everyone have their own process.