alpha2

Looking good! There's a video on the net about how to line up the tri-weave, I tried it and it's stupid simple and it works!

Local girl done good! Congrats to Caitlin! Jeff

Outstanding as always! I had to go back and find those initials that Double Daddy mentioned. Nice job. Jeff

I was excited about the magnetic strip idea until I also realized that all of my bobbins are aluminum! Why hasn't someone invented an aluminum magnet yet? Jeff

Welcome! Lots of information and help here on the forum. Starting out with ANY kind of sewing experience puts you ahead of many here! Jeff

Ooooh! New toys! I see some stitching in your near future! We'll need a follow up report... Jeff

Yes, with the bigger one, you can always sew smaller items, but with the small one, you can't sew larger stuff. For the difference in price, I went with the one I'll never have to upgrade. Buy once, cry once! Jeff

nailed it! Jeff

Sent you a text, Nate. Jeff

Does that have any thick layers of Resolene or such? Any protectant needs to applied in thin layers, with some buffing between coats. Also, applying some neatsfoot oil before anything else will give the leather some flexibility. Just guessing. Did you do anything differently with this one? Jeff

Resurrecting this thread. I got a smokin' deal on the Pro version of the Tandy press. I've tested it with the die sets I've accumulated, and it works flawlessly. I should have gotten one long ago, but I couldn't get past the price. It was on sale this week, and I get a manufacturers discount on top of that, so couldn't resist. Frankly, it would have been worth it at full retail, to me anyway. I'm tired of having snaps not get enough "bite" on the components, and rivets clinch over with the setter and hammer approach. I'd stopped using snaps it got so bad. Now, they all set perfectly and I no longer worry about long term use. I went the Harbor Freight route thinking I'd save some money. Not so. The alignment with the hand setter is perfect, and fortunately for me, idiot resistant. I still need the HF arbor press, to use my maker's mark, because it's so darn long, but that's about it. I need to get a mark made with a length I can use in the hand setter, and I can get rid of the HF arbor press. Too bad, I'd already drilled the thing out to accept dies, and machined the ram so I could get maximum force on the bar! Jeff

And then, how far you punch can change the hole size a couple of sizes! Depends on the thickness and hardness of the leather, what weight maul you use, and how much oomph you put into it! So many variables... Making up your own chart, based on your punches, your leather, and your "oomph", would be helpful! I have the same punches, mostly same leather, but my "oomph" has fallen off lately...??? Jeff

Okay, I tried this with the Craftool stamp alignment device. No luck. No way to keep the device, stamp, and leather aligned with each other. Looks like I'll have to keep using the alignment tool with a mallet. Too bad, that would have been amazing. Mostly because with the proper setting on the hand setter, you can get a consistent stamp depth with an "I" and an "X". With just the aligner and mallet, you have to remember to use more effort with the other stamps, and less with the "I". Just how much less is the problem. Jeff

Well, I finally made the plunge yesterday. Tandy had a sale on the Pro Hand Setter, and with my discount, it was significantly reduced. I already had a lot of the sets for it, as I'd been planning on using my Harbor Freight press, but couldn't find a way to keep the sets aligned well and using the 2D/3D stamps and alphabet stamps was a bit wonky. This setter has a table with rear guide rails that are adjustable and will really improve accuracy. I can also put hole punches and stitching chisels in it. I tried it out with many of the sets last night, and was impressed. No more clinching over rivets! I still need to get the Segma snap sets and wide rivet set. Line 20 and 24 I have. The only issue I see is they don't provide a way to lock the angle of the alphabet and 3D stamps to keep them aligned with the piece. The Tandy video on using the setter with alphabet stamps shows the guy mis-aligning the first letter very noticeably. I'll have to get into my engineer mode, (yes, be VERY afraid), and see if I can come up with something. Jeff

My secret sauce is beeswax, paraffin, neatsfoot oil. It ends up being a yellowish cream color, and is a paste in final form. It works into leather very nicely. I was using it on edges, but then went to a few drops of water into the saddle soap tin, and apply with a finger. I saw that online in a video, and I thought it looked easy and quick, and his edges were great! Jeff

Toe2short, download JLS holster making instructions, then just pretend your pin pointer is a handgun. The process is exactly the same. Jeff

I like what you did with that backgrounder! Jeff

I'm glad you could make this happen. Nice job.

That's primo, munky-boy!!! Jeff

First, I don't use snaps anymore. I use Chicago screws, or rivets, depending on the cost of the item. But, think about it, where is the applied force on the buckle fold? It's not trying to pull the fold apart, it's laterally on the buckle fold. It doesn't take much resistance to hold that together, especially when the wearers belly is resisting it. I have never had an issue with a "snap" attachment in any of the belts I've made. I use Chicago screws now because over time, I've found that I like to change buckles after construction. If you want to make it bullet proof, just use copper or brass rivets and smash them with a ball peen hammer. Jeff

Oh, my. I hope that was your "auto-correct" that made it "red lactating"! My experience with blue loctite would indicate it should be enough, but red would definitely do the job. Red should take heat to make it break loose. Now, having said that, if the threads are oily/greasy/dirty at all, that can affect the bond. Also, cheap Chicago screws (possible from a suburb of Chicago?) might not have a tight enough thread fit to do the job. One other thing, if you've only got a couple of threads engaged, instead of sizing the stud assy. so ALL the threads engage, that would be an issue. Just curious, what is the exact application on this dirtbike? Holding a leather flap down, like a Sam Browne belt kind of application? Jeff

Tandy also specifies a higher grade setter for stainless snaps. If you have a regular set, you can try a couple of snaps and see if it works for you.

Looks good! You obviously have the sunflowers figured out. Jeff

Nice job! That KaBar has been around a while. Jeff

I've been working with some new Horween CXL and it's amazing how much wax etc. is all over the work surfaces. I'm afraid it will transfer to hands, tools and such and will cause issues with the next veg tan I use and try to stain or dye evenly. Any suggestions as to what is the best cleaner to get rid of the residue. That wax seems to be impregnated into my large cutting panel! Jeff