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About fivewayswelshcobs

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    english saddles, bridlework and harness
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  1. Softening Herman Oak Skirting

    Hi , 3/8" work is fiddly but worth it on fine ponies, it makes a massive difference to the appearance. Keepers are normally sewn with 3 stitches across, 2 rows in back stitch or single hand so really only takes very little time. For a basic turnout headcollar/ halter I would keep it simple, if the nose is a single layer apart from the turn backs then if caught they will break especially if not too thick, cheaper to repair than a damaged horse. Steinke's book is Ok For basics but there is alot of detail missing , good for sizing when starting.
  2. Heating Edge Creaser

    If you spit on a finger and touch it to the creaser if it sizzles it is probably too hot but I also test on a small piece of leather, the same as the work being creased, as different leathers tolerate different temperatures of crease. If it burns the test it is too hot allow to cool which doesn't take long or even dip into water to cool it off before creasing the work piece. Mostly you learn what works for you and the leather you use. 99% of my work is using English bridle or harness leather which would react very differently to natural unstained veg tan.
  3. Heating Edge Creaser

    When heated the crease lasts longer but if too hot it will burn the leather. An initial crease can act as a guide to stitchmarking and if repeated after stitching when finishing it will improve the finished look. The only time I may not heat the crease is if the leather is wet but 99% of the time it is heated. I normally use a camping gas hob but have been known to use a large blowtorch which got a little interesting.
  4. Leather suppliers in the UK

    This is a polite question - have you read the pinned post about suppliers in the uk ? It woulds also help to know what type of leather you are looking for as most suppliers stock different types.
  5. Padding

    For smaller collars I will often use the thin foam from craft shops as only a few mm thick but can have problems with length on some collars otherwise use neoprene.
  6. Edge Creasing Corners

    To go round corners the easiest way is to re-angle the crease and continue round the corner using the front tip of the creaser, not tried it with a Tandy one but works well with a Dixons screw crease. With practice can be done in one movement not lifting off the leather, this saves time and keeps the crease neat.
  7. Exotic leather in the UK

    Try Marcus Gear in Walsall
  8. Breeching (as in harness breeching)

    Have you got pictures of what you want
  9. Piping or what? how to finish edge

    There are 2 different methods in this picture. The top is known as french binding which is basically binding which is stitched face to face on the flap then folded back over the edge and a second row of stitching holds down the binding and gives the row of stitching below the binding on the face of the bag flap, the first row of stitching is hidden by the binding being folded over it. The other finish is the piping in the seams of the bag where the the sides of the bag are placed face to face with the piping inbetween so all you see when stitching is one edge consisting of the 3 layers this is then turned the right way out the piping conceals the seam and gives a clean finish. Sorry no pictures but hope this helps.
  10. Visiting UK

    Marcus Gear in Walsall
  11. Antique bellows leather challenge!

    The original leather would have been vegetable tanned hide and to keep the character the only thing you can try is to prevent further damage as over time leatherwork eventually rot. If you move it damage will occur but I would talk to a specialist leather restorer before you do anything. If you replace the leather much of the character will be lost , if you wanted to restore it to working order then the leather would be replaced but if just to display I would stabilize and not replace.
  12. I have Brockman parer which is similar to the one shown, it will not do heavy leathers as the blades are very fragile as they are designed to shave hair not leather. The lighter thinner leather is ok and can easily be shaved down. The leather needs to be flexed as it is pulled through the blade and care is needed as it is easy to cut right through or scalp an area ruining the strap. Blades need to be replaced frequently as pulling harder will distort the leather. With the splitter is it the blade or the actual frame that is damaged. The blade can be reground (talk to a wood tool supplier) and the frame can be welded even if it is cast. Depending on the leather I would repair the splitter or replace it with a splitter as the parer does different leather.
  13. Questions on Handbags, Books, or advise

    You can catch the lining in the seams to hold it in place on bags , I'm not entirely sure of the technique so I would try it out. You can use interface , most bags are made with thinner leather than most of us would believe which is why they wear badly and frequently fail in use. I usually recommend 'The design and construction of handbags ' by W C Double it is long out of print but useful for techniques.
  14. Best sewing awl haft

    I get my hafts made by a friend who turns wood that way they fit my hand as many comercial ones are bigger than I like, also they are much cheaper.
  15. Help from UK members

    Hi they are hound couples, Abbey England do them but also F Martin and Son who are based in Walsall. There are 2 versions.