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About fivewayswelshcobs

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    english saddles, bridlework and harness
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  1. Sounds like you want to French bind it but that can be difficult to go round some corners , it is easier with thin bindings but these are less durable. To help with your actual project I would agree photos would be helpful.
  2. I agree many of us this side of the pond do have a very confused system, we measure thickness in mm but still work in imperial for other measurements some buckles are now coming in metric but since the straps are 1/2" 5/8" etc I still ask for them in imperial. In other areas I still cook using ounces, pounds etc, the fields are measured in acres but officially in paperwork they are measured in hectares ( who on earth can visualise a hectare ie 2.471 acres) . When we started farming livestock were in cwt now in kilos so we often spend most of the time translating measurements. It must be fun for youngsters trying make sense of all this as some do not understand imperial measurements at all unfortunately this makes me sound old and grumpy but no just grumpy and not so old. I also tell customers I still work in English ie feet and inches.
  3. Good start but now consider the leather you want to use. A thicker leather will need to be cut larger than a thinner leather (think smaller hole on inside of pouch as taken up by leather thickness) . The suppleness of the leather as some leather will not bend as easily as others so it will need to be cut larger. The leather finish will also affect fit as suede will grip the item more than a smooth finish. Also consider the end user as one person can cope with a snug fit early on but another can't so is less likely to use the pouch, l did a Kobe sleeve for my Mum it was a quick job but I found it easy to put on/off but as she isn't as strong she struggled and rarely used the sleeve so had a to make another one. Hope this helps.
  4. Hi Zuludog sounds a good idea but I would check about the glue some places can be funny about it not sure why could be fumes. It might be worth taking some small scraps to practice stitching or finishing on first.
  5. I agree with Matt after all we are the home of English bridle leather- it says it all in the name.
  6. Have you got a picture of what you want as different areas know things by different names.
  7. Saddle stitch is by far the strongest, a running stitch is OK if there will be no wear, personally I wouldn't use it on the base of a bag as it is one of the places it needs strength and if being made on a commercial level machine it but with 2 rows of stitching.
  8. It looks OK but I have a problem with the fit. The headstrap for the noseband should be under the cheekpiece and the same the other side as it will cause the bit to rub and if used correctly the front of the nose is sitting too low and will restrict the breathing. Once this is adjusted it will look much better and suits the horse. Sorry if this seems a little blunt but I have a real problem with badly fitted bridles (too often seen in the UK).
  9. The most interesting information I found when looking for leather vessels was the Reverend's Big Blog of Leather it will almost certainly give you some ideas of where else to look .
  10. Also consider a half head knife as it is smaller to handle but has the benefit of the curved blade I use mine more than my round knife.
  11. The way I was taught to do round boxes was to put the round base inside the cylinder and double the base by using 2 layers . Then when you angle the stitches from the outside to the base you are stitching through the base in a stronger way as you are going through more leather.
  12. No dogs allowed in my workshop for that very reason, we had a terrier that moved faster than me but also liked bringing in sticks or apples in for me to throw for her, more often then not I fell over those everytime I turned around so she was banished and so have all the more recent dogs. Plus it is safer as mice like the tallow on the bridle or harness leather and they get poisoned in my workshop.
  13. I agree with not stitching across the belt but I would also stop grooving over the bend in the leather at the buckle as it looks messy, you need to stop at a point fractionally past the last stitch and if wanted groove on the back but not over the bend, personally I never groove as the stitching is part of the decoration and if too sunk in it is a waste of time. In 15 years of saddlery and harness work I've not had a problem with worn stitches as when pulled up they are usually set well enough down.
  14. You would have to ask as I only got bright orange and lipstick pink as I needed a change from black and brown.
  15. There is some for sale on eBay UK but depending on the amount try Metropolitan as they will dye and finish any colour you want.