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About fivewayswelshcobs

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    english saddles, bridlework and harness
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  1. sewing speed

    To clarify the 2 hours I normally do a belt in it is 8 or 10 to the inch and sewn traditionally with the awl and needles held all of the time and leather stitch marked. I may add it has taken some years to get to this speed and lots of practice and I also like hand sewing.
  2. sewing speed

    Usually one thread per side and 2 hours.
  3. Leather handbag "Bible"

    Try your local library, I managed to borrow a copy.
  4. Sorry to bring bad news

    A consortium of 3 suppliers including Abbey England, Kilger Lederfabrik and another hide supplier have saved Sedgewicks according to Equestrian Trade News yesterday.
  5. Horsey repair stuff

    You are probably better off looking at bag and general bag repairs as they are better paid and need less product knowledge. Bear in mind most saddlers have many years training and have a good understanding of the thread and leather needed for tack repairs as a poorly repaired piece of tack can be highly dangerous. You also need to understand when not to repair certain items as not worth the risk to both horse and rider, let's face it no will die from a poor repair on a bag, this is not to suggest that your work would be of a poor quality. As you admit yourself you know little of horses and their tack. Rug repairs would be possible but can be quickest way to destroy a sewing machine, rugs often come in dirty and full of grit etc As a working Master Saddler I have seen some really bad repairs done by people with no or little knowledge of saddlery and most riders prefer to have repairs done by either trained or at the very least in training saddlers. Also bear in mind the level of insurance needed to cover yourself in this line of work, to have at least £5million cover is not cheap and needs to be done before you even start repairs.
  6. Tandy uk

    Hope this works News for Our United Kingdom Customers_04092018.eml
  7. Tandy uk

    Hi All, I had a surprise this evening in the form of an email saying Northampton branch is shutting at the end of the month and Manchester will be the main site in the UK. Unfortunately this is too far for me to use as often as I use Northampton , 2 1/2 hours and a frequent giant car park in the form of the M6 as against 45 minutes, so I will be looking at other suppliers, sadly probably abroad because of costs. It doesn't affect my main saddlery and harness business but mainly light leather goods belts etc (not leather). I now know how people feel with few local suppliers, I know I prefer to see a fitting to see it is what I want and the quality is right. I have used it and it's predecessor at the leather factory for over 25 years. Sorry mini rant over!!
  8. Softening Herman Oak Skirting

    Hi , 3/8" work is fiddly but worth it on fine ponies, it makes a massive difference to the appearance. Keepers are normally sewn with 3 stitches across, 2 rows in back stitch or single hand so really only takes very little time. For a basic turnout headcollar/ halter I would keep it simple, if the nose is a single layer apart from the turn backs then if caught they will break especially if not too thick, cheaper to repair than a damaged horse. Steinke's book is Ok For basics but there is alot of detail missing , good for sizing when starting.
  9. Heating Edge Creaser

    If you spit on a finger and touch it to the creaser if it sizzles it is probably too hot but I also test on a small piece of leather, the same as the work being creased, as different leathers tolerate different temperatures of crease. If it burns the test it is too hot allow to cool which doesn't take long or even dip into water to cool it off before creasing the work piece. Mostly you learn what works for you and the leather you use. 99% of my work is using English bridle or harness leather which would react very differently to natural unstained veg tan.
  10. Heating Edge Creaser

    When heated the crease lasts longer but if too hot it will burn the leather. An initial crease can act as a guide to stitchmarking and if repeated after stitching when finishing it will improve the finished look. The only time I may not heat the crease is if the leather is wet but 99% of the time it is heated. I normally use a camping gas hob but have been known to use a large blowtorch which got a little interesting.
  11. Leather suppliers in the UK

    This is a polite question - have you read the pinned post about suppliers in the uk ? It woulds also help to know what type of leather you are looking for as most suppliers stock different types.
  12. Padding

    For smaller collars I will often use the thin foam from craft shops as only a few mm thick but can have problems with length on some collars otherwise use neoprene.
  13. Edge Creasing Corners

    To go round corners the easiest way is to re-angle the crease and continue round the corner using the front tip of the creaser, not tried it with a Tandy one but works well with a Dixons screw crease. With practice can be done in one movement not lifting off the leather, this saves time and keeps the crease neat.
  14. Exotic leather in the UK

    Try Marcus Gear in Walsall
  15. Breeching (as in harness breeching)

    Have you got pictures of what you want