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About TomG

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  • Birthday March 17

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  • Location
    Buford, GA

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Belts, and Bracelets, Dog collars and leashes
  • Interested in learning about
    Anything for improving my skills
  1. When I first started leatherwork, I used them almost exclusively for a time. I found them to be temperamental and pretty fussy about factors like the leather thickness, how hard I set them and whether the setter was perfectly vertical. Same as you have found. I also had a couple of setters of vaious ages and found differences in which one I was using. Although I got fairly good a developing a routine, I still had way too high of a redo rate. Now, in all fairness. I was using them on 2/3 and 3/4 oz leather. This is actually too thin for what they are intended for. On 5/6 to 7/8, they worked much better. So, a large part of it was "wrong tool for the job". But even with the correct thickness, I was still experiencing too much waste. I also was using Tandy snaps, and the female socket was kind of flimsy. I bought a small package of them recently for a custom request, and found that I could actually move the "ears" with my thumbnail after setting them. So, now I use glove snaps for the thinner stuff and line 20 or 24 for the thicker stuff. Finally, I have heard that using a press and dies reduces the error rate significantly. But I don't have those dies and am not spending $100 to find out So, check out the glove snaps if you are using the thinner leather and see if they fit the bill for you. Later
  2. I had this happen once when I had the bobbin installed the wrong way. Check it like MikeSC said.
  3. A few months ago you answered some questions I had about sewing machines.

    You asked where I got my martingale chains from. Back than I got them from England, very costly.

    I found a supplier in the states much cheaper,. It's  Walsall Hardware Corp. Scottsdale AZ 85260

    If your still looking for a supplier, check them out.

  4. I saw some of these at the Ren-Fair here in Atlanta. The leather felt like upholstery leather. Soft, and a bit pliable. I assumed it was glued together. I actually introduced myself and tried to discuss the technique (I have no shame ), but I really am not interested in make these for sale. Too many other irons in the fire. But the gal at the booth said she was just an employee and had no idea of how they were made. But I do like the white leather glue idea. It "feels" right. It stays flexible, yet will hold the leather together. I'd use the plastic clips they sell to hold cloth together for sewing the seams. Expensive, but nice. About #0 for a box of 50, but with a coupon from JoAnns it drops it can drop in half...
  5. Found out today that this press will take the Tandy dies. Thanks for all of the input
  6. I did actually think of the inserts, but haven't had time to follow up on it. Wish I still had my metal lathe
  7. I have a United Carr M369 press and am looking for dies. I'd specifically like to find dies for Segma snaps and maybe a few others. Anyone have some for sale/trade? Or does anyone know of a brand or source of dies that will fit? Thanks
  8. Before you use a syringe, make sure the end cap makes it waterproof. If you overfill the chamber, it may leak out. Not sure though.
  9. I use mine for cutting the slits for doing mystery braid and stuff. It's a PITA to change setups for different sizes, and that black holddown bar is a bit flimsy, but it does a good job of doing what it's designed for after it's set up. Be sure to use sharp blades. Stropping them once in a while helps.
  10. If you try to pour dye in, you're probably going to have a mess. Pull the cap off the top and slide the sponge tube out. Drop one end into a small bottle of dye for a few minutes and let it saturate. Then put it back into the pen and cap it back up. Dip the tip into the bottle to pre-wet it and you're good to go. When it runs out, just resoak the sponge tube. I really like mine.
  11. So, where do you get the stuff to do it and are there any issues with doing it by hand?
  12. Generally, when you fold a thicker piece like that, you wet the back side down a bit, let it soak in a few minutes and then do the fold. Tom
  13. This had me puzzled. I have used Tandy's double cap rivets for years now and never experienced that problem. I believe they use the same caps as the rapid rivets. I set a few in a strap and rubbed the hell out of them on my desktop, a formica embroidery table top, a cutting board and my granite slab. I rub hard, like I was doing a rough cut when sharpening a knife. The only one that showed the base metal was the slab. I'm not sure what's going on with yours. Any way for you to post photos? I am getting ready to switch to the solid brass rivets and may switch to OTB for them if Tandy is having quality issues now. I can see them cutting down on the plating thickness to save money. Tom
  14. Hi Wiz, Thanks,,, Yep. Already did the decision on a bottom price. I always do that anyway . Don't think I put FIRM on it though.... I just got in from vacation, so will check that tomorrow . I haven't had to battle the Nigerians lately, but I've had a few "official" Microsoft support folks form Manila call to tell me my PC was in serious trouble and the could fix it. I couple of them even held on while I "had the FBI start a phone trace on the call". Talk about being faithful to a script. Hmm ... I wonder how long they held on after I hung up? Thanks Tom