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About oltoot

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  • Birthday 03/29/1943

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  1. Too much to be called a rebuild
  2. How many feet of string?
  3. This basic; if a saddle is too tight anywhere, more pads can only make it tighter, if it's too big, however, pads can fill in spaces. That makes the decision as to have a "colt" saddle or not one complicated by lots of things, dollars being big. It is certainly true that colts' new worlds of being changed from a free to controlled being are really full of change and what a great blessing it is that most are remarkably flexible and adaptable. All that said, we can just try not to hurt or scare them as we introduce them to the role they will occupy for years to come. If we can avoid that we have great things to look forward to. We run the risk of overthinking this as we try not to be thoughtless. Balance!!
  4. Let me add a little consternation. I would forget about all the template, etc stuff and remember that if you get too specific to a particular horse, that horse will probably only be in service for another 6-10 years and a good saddle, well cared for, should last 30 or more so ask Sonny Felkins or somebody as well informed to fit the type of horses you will be riding over time and invest in a good pad if it doesn't fit a particular horse perfectly. Saddle fitting beyond getting the appropriate gullet width and bar configuration is a big waste of time and energy, IMHO. Thankfully, horses are remarkably uniform in their conformation in the area where saddles sit. And learn to skive cause you can always take a little off but it's purt near impossible to add it on. And you pretty much get what you pay for when it comes to leather and most other important things. So don't plan on this turning out cheap cause it wont. You will, of course, use cheap labor so it will all come out in the wash and plain is plain and not much can be said for it. Add whatever level of decoration you can do and please yourself. Life's too short to dance with ugly women or fellas. Only initials or monograms will affect the resale.
  5. From using, repairing, making; Rawhide holds up better in all but the most humid climes but it is more demanding to work with. Once you start,you have to carry through to finish which adds a little demand in learning to sew a cantle binding, straight up or Cheyenne roll but maybe you should settle for comfort in completion for your first and try rawhide after you have sewn a cantle binding or 2.
  6. What he said with a little extra to think about. Skirt rigs require some sewing experience to get them right whereas a plate rig is pretty much straightforward and well within the capacity of any good machine. And with a good set of buck rolls you will have most of what a swell fork provides without the weight. Sonny Felkins is a great choice IMHO.
  7. Don't ever complain about being unlucky but be prepared to spend several more 80 bucks to get it going. If you go the whole route you will end up with something worth 2-3 thousand dollars. Yes there are any number of silicone based thread lubes available from places like Weaver Leather that will work in hot wax pots with the right strippers installed and run without heat. 110 motors are more than adequate for this stitcher.
  8. Fender is on the wrong side, otherwise I have nothing to add
  9. Can't tell much from pic. Better broadside would be more helpful. Some repairs show in this pic. Less repairs = greater value to collectors
  10. Without discussing the relative merits of the various approaches, here is how I have come to install ground seats over many years of trial and error. This is not anywhere near the way that I was taught by CH Werner in the 1960's, yes that's over 50 years ago. Among the many changes that I have made over the years is moving from dextrin to other kinds of adhesives and to the little skife tools in place of spokeshaves. Replacing razor blades is much easier for me than sharpening blades but overall I am happier with the results that I get. I have tested these seats in my own personal saddles over the years. See next post for details and photos.
  11. 2 cents worth: I want to register a vote against any kind of ring shanked nails. Reason being, they wreak havoc on the wood when they are removed. My mentor taught me to think about that in the basic design of things, He said that when I got it right, a basic saddle should outlive me and to always think about the guy who would be repairing the thing cause it might even be me. Along that line I have, in the last several years, begun to employ drywall screws (#6) in a lieu of tacks in many places. They are tenacious and non-destructive when removed, plus they are easy to employ with a battery powered drill/driver. I haven't stopped using tacks and various sizes of cement coated nails where appropriate but the drywall screws have replaced a lot of them. Oh yeah, #12 wood screws are still the right stuff for some final assembly steps.
  12. As for the skulls, to each his own I say but the potty mouth is pointless trash made permanent by the leather tools employed in the place of spray cans.
  13. I don't know if this will help but you don't tie the knot directly to the bosal, you first tie it loosely then partially disassemble it and then reassemble it around the bosal.
  14. In my many years of experience, I have found that it is impossible to hand stitch flat work, skirt linings, etc as good as a well adjusted, properly sized needle and awl stitcher can do. Conversely, modifying construction approaches in order to machine sew things that should be handsewn is a quality compromise that is sad if not shameful.
  15. Just FYI for UL users, I ground the closed toe off of the foot so that I could see the stitch line and like it much better, also rounded all the sharp edges on top to prevent thread damage when removing work.