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About oltoot

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  • Birthday 03/29/1943

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    General leather related

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  1. Myself, I have settled on 3/8 thick, hollow ground, straight for the vast majority of work. Blade control accommodates varying tasks better than trying to switch blades, IMHO
  2. I'm late, I know, but here is what I came to while I was saving for a needle and awl stitcher (and putting in a pitch for a new UL, it is still going strong after 40+ years and 100's of sheepskins sewed with ease). Glue sheepskin down (I use Barges) then trim off to about 1/4 from edge, if you have large scissors you can pre trim the fleece at an angle thus reducing the amount you will have to deal with, then as you go, wet the fleece thoroughly about 1" from edge with a sponge, you will find that you can part the fleece from the awl tip as it pokes through and keep it parted long enough to pass by. When done just squeeze out the water and let it dry before trimming to edge.
  3. All good responses. Know your leather. If you were paying for #1 backs, you would have the right to expect "ssmooth" flesh sides, if Tannery Run sides then you would expect to find some flanky spots
  4. Yes, but you cant do as good a job. And to do it right you will need to fit a top plug of plywood over the metal. Recovering over the swell cover is pretty much OK if it's going to be covered up with a mulehide wrap and then a rubber overwrap and can be done much cheaper. As long as it's thoroughly explained and customer get's to choose.
  5. TIP "faux" molding with just your fingers before tooling then final molding will help a little
  6. 1,3,and 8
  7. Too much to be called a rebuild
  8. How many feet of string?
  9. This basic; if a saddle is too tight anywhere, more pads can only make it tighter, if it's too big, however, pads can fill in spaces. That makes the decision as to have a "colt" saddle or not one complicated by lots of things, dollars being big. It is certainly true that colts' new worlds of being changed from a free to controlled being are really full of change and what a great blessing it is that most are remarkably flexible and adaptable. All that said, we can just try not to hurt or scare them as we introduce them to the role they will occupy for years to come. If we can avoid that we have great things to look forward to. We run the risk of overthinking this as we try not to be thoughtless. Balance!!
  10. Let me add a little consternation. I would forget about all the template, etc stuff and remember that if you get too specific to a particular horse, that horse will probably only be in service for another 6-10 years and a good saddle, well cared for, should last 30 or more so ask Sonny Felkins or somebody as well informed to fit the type of horses you will be riding over time and invest in a good pad if it doesn't fit a particular horse perfectly. Saddle fitting beyond getting the appropriate gullet width and bar configuration is a big waste of time and energy, IMHO. Thankfully, horses are remarkably uniform in their conformation in the area where saddles sit. And learn to skive cause you can always take a little off but it's purt near impossible to add it on. And you pretty much get what you pay for when it comes to leather and most other important things. So don't plan on this turning out cheap cause it wont. You will, of course, use cheap labor so it will all come out in the wash and plain is plain and not much can be said for it. Add whatever level of decoration you can do and please yourself. Life's too short to dance with ugly women or fellas. Only initials or monograms will affect the resale.
  11. From using, repairing, making; Rawhide holds up better in all but the most humid climes but it is more demanding to work with. Once you start,you have to carry through to finish which adds a little demand in learning to sew a cantle binding, straight up or Cheyenne roll but maybe you should settle for comfort in completion for your first and try rawhide after you have sewn a cantle binding or 2.
  12. What he said with a little extra to think about. Skirt rigs require some sewing experience to get them right whereas a plate rig is pretty much straightforward and well within the capacity of any good machine. And with a good set of buck rolls you will have most of what a swell fork provides without the weight. Sonny Felkins is a great choice IMHO.
  13. Don't ever complain about being unlucky but be prepared to spend several more 80 bucks to get it going. If you go the whole route you will end up with something worth 2-3 thousand dollars. Yes there are any number of silicone based thread lubes available from places like Weaver Leather that will work in hot wax pots with the right strippers installed and run without heat. 110 motors are more than adequate for this stitcher.
  14. Fender is on the wrong side, otherwise I have nothing to add
  15. Can't tell much from pic. Better broadside would be more helpful. Some repairs show in this pic. Less repairs = greater value to collectors