oltoot

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About oltoot

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    Leatherworker
  • Birthday 03/29/1943

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    oldcoot1913@outlook.com

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    Male
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    Wyoming
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    General leather related

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saddlemaker
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    tools, supplies
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  1. Yes, if you want it off and aren't planning on replacing it, it won't matter how the treee is constructed, you can just saaw away, it wont matter if the horn and fork are one piece of wood or if a metal horn covered in wood putty is used. at any rate plan on covering up the raw surface with a leather or rawhide cover. Be advised that if it is of one piece construction and you cut the horn off, plan on keeping it the rest of it's life cause no one will want to undertake what it would take to put a horn on it. It would be daunting enough it had had the top of the fork inlet for a cast metal horn. Have you looked at a plantation or endurance saddle, they are made without horns and will always have some resale value as opposed to a butchered up Wade.
  2. Drywall screws don't need to be predrilled as they are the least likely to cause splitting. Predrilling the larger wood screws is a good move, especially when repairing older, wooden trees. Avoid placing either type of screw in a straight line, aligned with the grain of the wood in the tree
  3. Bellies would be the place to cut many of the pieces you are not planning on replacing so the short answer would be that you don't need them for the saddle, itself. Plugging (IMHO) is an excuse for not having enough leather that is heavy enough for skirts but plugged is better than too light and not plugged. You have seen enough reasons for having 2 sides to work with and planning to have a lot left over for the next project. Blocked vs unblocked is a no-brainer (IMHO) rough cut skirts first, block, then mark the final lines, such as the bottom line, meeting in the back the way you prefer and aligning perfectly with the front jockeys on the seat, then make the final cuts after the blocking has dried. Buy woolskins large enough to be able to lay out the skirt linings properly and be OK with having plenty left over but resist the temptation to line things such as breast collars or rifle scabbards as sheep wool plus sweat and other grime that is attracted to wet (or oily) places equals extra abrasion. Breast collars that fit and are adjusted properly don't need padding. If you feel the need to line a breast collar, opt for something that will result in smooth, continuous contact such as grain side out latigo or light weight veg tan (a candidate for the skirting bellies you will have if you buy 2 sides).
  4. Leather is not plywood and if you are not building an entire saddle, you may find yourself wishing you had 2 sides instead of just one. That said, one side should have more than enough square footage for your needs though perhaps not yield the ideal places for some of the pieces, get some of the mentioned books/dvds that give you suggested cutting layouts and study those against the "typical" side of leather in terms of things like firmness, weight, stretchiness, flexibility, and then make your decision. NOTE: The Chahin from Weaver is a good buy but picking a source where the minimums fit your budget may lead you to try other things.
  5. sadlle restoration

    Dry wall screws are a good replacement for most tacks and nails in saddle work. Ring shank nails are a big no-no
  6. saddle fleece

    Read other threads on this forum
  7. Synthetic shearling for saddle

    It has no place on quality work, period, regardless of price.
  8. Swivel knife sharpening

    FYI You can specify blades to fit Tandy when you order from Barry and they will be round. I don't use stones to sharpen my blades, instead placing sheets of emory cloth or metal working sandpaper on my marble slab and working on them. Lots of different grits available at your home improvement or auto parts store. My sharpening jig came from Tandy 50+ years ago and will outlast me.
  9. braiding rein ends

    Assuming that you are braiding 4, 6, 8, 12, 16 strand (or even more in O2U2 sequence) the trick is in Bruce Grant's book but still requires covering with a decorative knot (usually some version of the same multi string bosal noseband knot found in the same book. If you don't already have the book you should if you want to braid or even just understand braiding as the world heritage art that it is
  10. Without examining the rest of the saddle and comparing with period catalogues it is impossible to say if it was entirely custom made or just a personalized standard model
  11. Saddle #3 Completed

    FYI Little trick for spacing daisy type stamps: I have picked up several pieces in different spacings of clear plastic rug runners. Pressing the selected piece down on slightly damp leather leaves little marks from the cleats. Shopping at home supply places has yielded a collection of various patterns
  12. Bucking rolls

    FYI: I stuff mine with woolskin trimmings from skirt linings, stuff it in wet with a hammer handle then fan dry it. Tanned wool is an unusual material in that it shrinks when wet and swells as it dries
  13. Bucking rolls

    Weight is one reason, a slick fork with rolls will come in a couple pounds lighter than a swell fork and in the very beginning, slick forks were usually a little kinder to the horses and thus preferred by the owners
  14. My old trick: Find a loose, unadhered spot somewhere in the middle and tear the lining off and outward; when you get to the stitching you can cut more easily from the inside with a sharp pointed knife and then pick stitches. I have tried various tricks to pull the top thread or bobbin thread (will depend on how the maker's machine was adjusted) but have found that trying to start there will often prolong the exercise while just waiting to see and then going with the flow works better. If the old lining is already torn, use it.