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About oltoot

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  • Birthday 03/29/1943

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    General leather related

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
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  1. Sixty Button Reins

    Fatter cattle=greasier hides ; Old dairy cows can be the thinnest and best
  2. Sixty Button Reins

    Do you use cores? or are they square?
  3. Cutting extra thick leather

    If convenient, soak it up in hot water then cut with ease
  4. For traditional wood & rawhide, I put Quality Mfg in Monticello, Utah at the top
  5. First saddle (western)

    Trimmed after sewing with rawhide and fitted front and trimmed back with leather
  6. First saddle (western)

    As a long time (I'm 75) user and maker I can assure that no one will like that pinked cantle binding for very long as the little points will soon curl up and poke in front and scrape in back. Learned the hard way. It looks like a good idea but soon backfires
  7. Scored rawhide is a large cause of broken tree bars IMHO so a + for bar risers and that business about closeness is a myth, as far as I'm concerned; much better to have balance and comfort brought by a well shaped seat, so what if it is 1/16 or even 1/8 higher up in the air, if the insides of the thighs are as close to the tree as the bar risers allow and everything else is in balance.
  8. Making Braiding soap problem

    I have also added bees wax. From candle makers supplies get white BW beads. Equal parts to the other ingredients. I have settled on much more water, about 2 1/2 cups.
  9. Getting Black to Stay True Black!

    I've never tried it so I can't say for sure (I just use 2 coats) but the old timer who I worked with when I was just a boy always dyed his black (smooth surfaces, not matted or backgrounded) with a coat of deep purple first, letting it dry and buffing it before applying the black, just sayin.
  10. The hardware and the way it is rigged will make it easy to identify by comparing pics with one of the good books that are out there (One by Randy Steffan comes to mind) My guess will be that it will prove to be the 1917 officer's model McClellan. The McClellan was first introduced in 1858 and went through many changes until it was no longer stocked as an item by the US quartermaster (I think about 1941) The US 7 might indicate that it was used by the 7th Cavalry at Ft Riley, Ks
  11. Tin Seat Strainer

    If you can't find it, I can email you the pics from which the thread was made if you would like. Send email addy to oldcoot1913@outlook.com. Ron's tip will go a long way toward solving the problem.
  12. Tin Seat Strainer

    Look at old threads, there is one there with lots of pics.
  13. Shipping a Saddle

    Go to your local moving and storage company and purchase a small or medium wardrobe box without the bar. Also get a roll of duct tape and use the whole roll. UPS is available to me so that's who I use
  14. order right & left skirting sides?

    For most, the most important thing to remember is that leather isn't plywood and saddles aren't tool cabinets so you have to look and think while you work and remember that you are making a thing which has lots of different stress and stretch requirements (a saddle or some piece of equipment) out of a material that was part of a living thing a short time before and you must match requirement and material. Most will never be able to afford to sort their way to satisfaction but will have to look, feel, and think a lot to get the best job done. Learn all you can about the use that saddles get and the nature of cows and it will all help you make better stuff. Most of all IMHO be prepared to have a big scrap box with lots of stuff in it if you make very much good stuff.