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About oltoot

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  • Birthday 03/29/1943

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    General leather related

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  1. Making Braiding soap problem

    I have also added bees wax. From candle makers supplies get white BW beads. Equal parts to the other ingredients. I have settled on much more water, about 2 1/2 cups.
  2. Getting Black to Stay True Black!

    I've never tried it so I can't say for sure (I just use 2 coats) but the old timer who I worked with when I was just a boy always dyed his black (smooth surfaces, not matted or backgrounded) with a coat of deep purple first, letting it dry and buffing it before applying the black, just sayin.
  3. The hardware and the way it is rigged will make it easy to identify by comparing pics with one of the good books that are out there (One by Randy Steffan comes to mind) My guess will be that it will prove to be the 1917 officer's model McClellan. The McClellan was first introduced in 1858 and went through many changes until it was no longer stocked as an item by the US quartermaster (I think about 1941) The US 7 might indicate that it was used by the 7th Cavalry at Ft Riley, Ks
  4. Tin Seat Strainer

    If you can't find it, I can email you the pics from which the thread was made if you would like. Send email addy to oldcoot1913@outlook.com. Ron's tip will go a long way toward solving the problem.
  5. Tin Seat Strainer

    Look at old threads, there is one there with lots of pics.
  6. Shipping a Saddle

    Go to your local moving and storage company and purchase a small or medium wardrobe box without the bar. Also get a roll of duct tape and use the whole roll. UPS is available to me so that's who I use
  7. order right & left skirting sides?

    For most, the most important thing to remember is that leather isn't plywood and saddles aren't tool cabinets so you have to look and think while you work and remember that you are making a thing which has lots of different stress and stretch requirements (a saddle or some piece of equipment) out of a material that was part of a living thing a short time before and you must match requirement and material. Most will never be able to afford to sort their way to satisfaction but will have to look, feel, and think a lot to get the best job done. Learn all you can about the use that saddles get and the nature of cows and it will all help you make better stuff. Most of all IMHO be prepared to have a big scrap box with lots of stuff in it if you make very much good stuff.
  8. Stamping Saddle Questions

    Opinion based on 2 levels of observation: 1: Repair- Sometimes, with age, they can curl up between lining and skirt and just age poorly 2: Layout- Sometimes skirts that will be plugged to get edges right are not cut from as good a place as if they will stand on their own. (when trying to minimize waste vs maximizing piece suitability) NOTE# by some thinking, plugging every edge as a matter of course actually makes the skirts lay better on the horse's back but that doesn't jibe with my observations
  9. Hamley Daisy Stamp Spacing

    Look for plastic rug runner material that has the little dimples on the back side. They are available in different spacings. Place as desired on cased leather and rub. The slight marks give you a pattern to follow without unwanted lines.
  10. Stamping Saddle Questions

    Just might add that things like rigging plates, etc that are multilayered, stamping after assembly `can eliminate some aassembly problems that can come from stretching. And if you stamp skirts after plugging, plugs will be more firmly anchored, but try to cut skirts from parts where plugs wont be necessary as I for one dont think plugs are a good thing
  11. It is a little Wonder tree with a 5/8 single plate rig. It was most likely made in Denver in the company's later years and sold by a travelling salesman to some Georgia boy. It is amazing that it has held up so well in the high humidity environment of the Southeast.
  12. RR Track Anvil

    This is not first hand, I'm just repeating stories I have heard: I got this RR rail anvil in 1963 in Alpine, Texas. This was the site of a recently closed machine shop for the SF Railway. The RR machinists, in order to test and tune the tools that they used (ie giant lathes and drill presses) would make these things for their own use and give them to friends. Back in the day, lots of cowboys carried them around to shape horse shoes with. The old original Big Bend Saddlery had 3 or 4 of them laying around and I still have this one (55 yrs later). As has been said: if I had a dollar (or even a dime) for every rivet that has been set on it or shoe shaped, I could buy a new diesel pickup and put fuel in it for a long time.
  13. Help needed with weaver draw gauge.

    I guess that there are "tricks" that I am not even aware of but I have successfully used a draw gauge for over 50 years. I think that pulling slightly into the leather is a big part of the trick after the adjustments mentioned by Weaver. For me, the wood/razor blade thingys are useless junk?
  14. Wade Tree Help

    Check out a PRCA spec bronc saddle closely and note that stirrup leathers go under the front pads of the tree to be locked forward, as previously noted, not comfy for prolonged use and not very horse friendly. Stirrup slots underneath must stop where they do to leave some weight distribution area. Everything about rigging placement, ground seat design, etc that can be said has been said; that said trees are like saddles, cheap is not necessarily good.