• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About oltoot

  • Rank
  • Birthday 03/29/1943

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    General leather related

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
  • Interested in learning about
    tools, supplies
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
  1. Leather is not plywood and if you are not building an entire saddle, you may find yourself wishing you had 2 sides instead of just one. That said, one side should have more than enough square footage for your needs though perhaps not yield the ideal places for some of the pieces, get some of the mentioned books/dvds that give you suggested cutting layouts and study those against the "typical" side of leather in terms of things like firmness, weight, stretchiness, flexibility, and then make your decision. NOTE: The Chahin from Weaver is a good buy but picking a source where the minimums fit your budget may lead you to try other things.
  2. Dry wall screws are a good replacement for most tacks and nails in saddle work. Ring shank nails are a big no-no
  3. Read other threads on this forum
  4. It has no place on quality work, period, regardless of price.
  5. FYI You can specify blades to fit Tandy when you order from Barry and they will be round. I don't use stones to sharpen my blades, instead placing sheets of emory cloth or metal working sandpaper on my marble slab and working on them. Lots of different grits available at your home improvement or auto parts store. My sharpening jig came from Tandy 50+ years ago and will outlast me.
  6. Assuming that you are braiding 4, 6, 8, 12, 16 strand (or even more in O2U2 sequence) the trick is in Bruce Grant's book but still requires covering with a decorative knot (usually some version of the same multi string bosal noseband knot found in the same book. If you don't already have the book you should if you want to braid or even just understand braiding as the world heritage art that it is
  7. Without examining the rest of the saddle and comparing with period catalogues it is impossible to say if it was entirely custom made or just a personalized standard model
  8. FYI Little trick for spacing daisy type stamps: I have picked up several pieces in different spacings of clear plastic rug runners. Pressing the selected piece down on slightly damp leather leaves little marks from the cleats. Shopping at home supply places has yielded a collection of various patterns
  9. FYI: I stuff mine with woolskin trimmings from skirt linings, stuff it in wet with a hammer handle then fan dry it. Tanned wool is an unusual material in that it shrinks when wet and swells as it dries
  10. Weight is one reason, a slick fork with rolls will come in a couple pounds lighter than a swell fork and in the very beginning, slick forks were usually a little kinder to the horses and thus preferred by the owners
  11. My old trick: Find a loose, unadhered spot somewhere in the middle and tear the lining off and outward; when you get to the stitching you can cut more easily from the inside with a sharp pointed knife and then pick stitches. I have tried various tricks to pull the top thread or bobbin thread (will depend on how the maker's machine was adjusted) but have found that trying to start there will often prolong the exercise while just waiting to see and then going with the flow works better. If the old lining is already torn, use it.
  12. You didn't ask about needle and awl vs single needle. BSS alluded to it but didn't go into depth. If I were you (which I am not being old and wore out instead of young and still finding a groove) I would put the following at the top of my list but I would not wait forever if my needs were more urgent): A #3 Landis still on a treadle stand that has never been motorized. Your budget may be the driving force and the amount of time you have to learn may lead you to one of the 441 clone dealers. You can outdo your hand stitching with any properly adjusted stitcher. If you go with a 441 clone, pick a dealer, not just a seller. This will be the exception to the rules about $$. A few extra for service and coaching will be well spent if they turn out to be needed. Good luck to you and remember that no matter what machine you pick you will still need to handsew (or hand finish) some parts. Buena suerte
  13. I always wanted to (or felt I needed to) use just a little bit heavier leather than Al Stohlman prescribed and this would make a pattern just a little too small and as for left handed, just turn the right handed pattern over and voila!