oltoot

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About oltoot

  • Rank
    Leatherworker
  • Birthday 03/29/1943

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    oldcoot1913@outlook.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wyoming
  • Interests
    General leather related

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saddlemaker
  • Interested in learning about
    tools, supplies
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  1. Wade Tree Help

    Check out a PRCA spec bronc saddle closely and note that stirrup leathers go under the front pads of the tree to be locked forward, as previously noted, not comfy for prolonged use and not very horse friendly. Stirrup slots underneath must stop where they do to leave some weight distribution area. Everything about rigging placement, ground seat design, etc that can be said has been said; that said trees are like saddles, cheap is not necessarily good.
  2. Western Saddle Fit DVD

    I'm probably going to ignite a firestorm here but in my 50+ years associated with saddles and horses,( I'm a saddlemaker and saddle user), i've developed a sore spot about "saddle fitting" To be sure, I much preferred that my customers know, not just believe but actually know, something about trees and riggings and equine anatomy but fundamental was that a decent saddle should outlast a few decent horses so "groups" of horses and "groups" of trees should be the emphasis, not exact, microscopic adjustment to the tune of a specific partner. Once a decision is made, individual accommodations can be achieved with padding, rigging adjustment, etc. IOW, if the expectation from a SF exercise is that exact fit of every horse for the rest of our time, the bar needs to be set at a more realistic height.
  3. Stitch looks good. Only improvement would be for the slight period of time when needle was brand new
  4. Horn Books

    What was the text? Could some of them been early hymnals?
  5. High Desert Winter Day

    If you do this again, make it easy on yourself and only make two loops on the vertical run on the double diamond. I have thrown a lot of these useful hitches and never with more than two loops, usually only one. Not actually knowing how it is most often thrown, you did an absolutely amazing job figuring out how to picture the hitch and the top pack. Kudos for everything.
  6. rex riveter vs Little Wonder

    It's all about picking the right size rivet for the work
  7. Looking for anvil/steel plate

    Three and used to be four required for me. The best and most all around is a piece of railroad rail with a horn turned on a big lathe. Small one from Harbor Freight and modified shoe last holder. #4 was horseshoer's anvil also made from railroad rail. Got too old to shoe horses and sold it along with other tools to a young buck just getting started.
  8. Saddle soap question

    I had to cut down on the lard to cure that ill, also melting the lard at pretty high temps seemed to help
  9. Who makes/made this stamp?

    BK makes custom tools, they aren't cheap but they are good and I haven't looked lately but Clay Miller had a good selection
  10. Who makes/made this stamp?

    Maybe Jeremiah Watt or someone slightly modifying a JW design to make the tool useful in circle based applications rather than straight lines as are the JW offerings??
  11. Maul. Doubts with the purchase

    1 lb rawhide maul and assortment of progressively lighter mallets for most tooling, 3 lb rawhide maul for geometrics and makers mark and 8 lb rawhide maul for punching
  12. Felt instead of sheepskin to line saddles

    During the second world war, sheepskin was in short supply, most being snapped up by defense contractors for flight suits. Felt was widely used. After the war, when sheepskin was once again available, felt quickly faded into memories. Personally, I think that good felt would be as good as most artificial fleeces and given the advances of pads today should be in a position to make a comeback. For me, give me a saddle that fits , a couple of good double Navajo blankets and a good bark tanned sheepskin lining. The good Navajos are getting scarce so felt pads look like a good 2nd choice.
  13. Oak Leaf Pattern

    Here's my 2 cents worth, or maybe 1 1/2. I like the larger than normal cutout above the rigging plate. I'm sure that you can critique the tooling as well as anyone and that you have your own list of goals to achieve. Now to some observations that come from ~50 years of building, repairing and using saddles. I am very much opposed to doming copper rivits any place that they will be subject to strap wear as eventually, the top will wear through. I prefer to set the rivits where the entire face will be below the surface of the leather. I achieve that by running a small french edger around the edge of the hole resulting in a slightly cone shaped depression to set the rivit in. I freely admit that the result is not as attractive but it has been my experience that homely girls get more work done than prom queens (though I followed a different line of reasoning when I was picking a wife and allocating some of my meager earnings to silver bits, spurs etc). Next, I put breast collar dees on rigging plates or skirt corners for years but probably about 30 years ago I looked at how horse anatomy, breast collar function stirrup leather travel work together and moved my breast collar dees up to between the front concho and the rigging plate or tree surface, depending on the construction being employed ( the attachment looks like a minature flank rig on a full double dee ring rigged saddle and is secured to the tree by the saddle strings and #8 screws.) I use either a 1" 1 1/4" dee ring and leather for the Attachment. I experimented with metal but abandonded it for leather for the simple reason that metal would make an annoying squeaking sound some time when just riding along without weight on the collar. Among the desirable (IMHO) results is that there is no contact with stirrup leathers and the supporting pull when a dee ring type breast collar ( with a snug tie down from BC dee ring to cinch dee ring between the front legs) is employed is more nearly straight from point of attachment on the saddle to the main pressure bearing region of the BC. now, in closing, let me say that you are doing great on your journey as a budding and then blooming saddlemaker.
  14. Yes, if you want it off and aren't planning on replacing it, it won't matter how the treee is constructed, you can just saaw away, it wont matter if the horn and fork are one piece of wood or if a metal horn covered in wood putty is used. at any rate plan on covering up the raw surface with a leather or rawhide cover. Be advised that if it is of one piece construction and you cut the horn off, plan on keeping it the rest of it's life cause no one will want to undertake what it would take to put a horn on it. It would be daunting enough it had had the top of the fork inlet for a cast metal horn. Have you looked at a plantation or endurance saddle, they are made without horns and will always have some resale value as opposed to a butchered up Wade.