oltoot

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About oltoot

  • Rank
    Leatherworker
  • Birthday 03/29/1943

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    oldcoot1913@outlook.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wyoming
  • Interests
    General leather related

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saddlemaker
  • Interested in learning about
    tools, supplies
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  1. Saddle soap question

    I had to cut down on the lard to cure that ill, also melting the lard at pretty high temps seemed to help
  2. Who makes/made this stamp?

    BK makes custom tools, they aren't cheap but they are good and I haven't looked lately but Clay Miller had a good selection
  3. Who makes/made this stamp?

    Maybe Jeremiah Watt or someone slightly modifying a JW design to make the tool useful in circle based applications rather than straight lines as are the JW offerings??
  4. Maul. Doubts with the purchase

    1 lb rawhide maul and assortment of progressively lighter mallets for most tooling, 3 lb rawhide maul for geometrics and makers mark and 8 lb rawhide maul for punching
  5. Felt instead of sheepskin to line saddles

    During the second world war, sheepskin was in short supply, most being snapped up by defense contractors for flight suits. Felt was widely used. After the war, when sheepskin was once again available, felt quickly faded into memories. Personally, I think that good felt would be as good as most artificial fleeces and given the advances of pads today should be in a position to make a comeback. For me, give me a saddle that fits , a couple of good double Navajo blankets and a good bark tanned sheepskin lining. The good Navajos are getting scarce so felt pads look like a good 2nd choice.
  6. Oak Leaf Pattern

    Here's my 2 cents worth, or maybe 1 1/2. I like the larger than normal cutout above the rigging plate. I'm sure that you can critique the tooling as well as anyone and that you have your own list of goals to achieve. Now to some observations that come from ~50 years of building, repairing and using saddles. I am very much opposed to doming copper rivits any place that they will be subject to strap wear as eventually, the top will wear through. I prefer to set the rivits where the entire face will be below the surface of the leather. I achieve that by running a small french edger around the edge of the hole resulting in a slightly cone shaped depression to set the rivit in. I freely admit that the result is not as attractive but it has been my experience that homely girls get more work done than prom queens (though I followed a different line of reasoning when I was picking a wife and allocating some of my meager earnings to silver bits, spurs etc). Next, I put breast collar dees on rigging plates or skirt corners for years but probably about 30 years ago I looked at how horse anatomy, breast collar function stirrup leather travel work together and moved my breast collar dees up to between the front concho and the rigging plate or tree surface, depending on the construction being employed ( the attachment looks like a minature flank rig on a full double dee ring rigged saddle and is secured to the tree by the saddle strings and #8 screws.) I use either a 1" 1 1/4" dee ring and leather for the Attachment. I experimented with metal but abandonded it for leather for the simple reason that metal would make an annoying squeaking sound some time when just riding along without weight on the collar. Among the desirable (IMHO) results is that there is no contact with stirrup leathers and the supporting pull when a dee ring type breast collar ( with a snug tie down from BC dee ring to cinch dee ring between the front legs) is employed is more nearly straight from point of attachment on the saddle to the main pressure bearing region of the BC. now, in closing, let me say that you are doing great on your journey as a budding and then blooming saddlemaker.
  7. Yes, if you want it off and aren't planning on replacing it, it won't matter how the treee is constructed, you can just saaw away, it wont matter if the horn and fork are one piece of wood or if a metal horn covered in wood putty is used. at any rate plan on covering up the raw surface with a leather or rawhide cover. Be advised that if it is of one piece construction and you cut the horn off, plan on keeping it the rest of it's life cause no one will want to undertake what it would take to put a horn on it. It would be daunting enough it had had the top of the fork inlet for a cast metal horn. Have you looked at a plantation or endurance saddle, they are made without horns and will always have some resale value as opposed to a butchered up Wade.
  8. Drywall screws don't need to be predrilled as they are the least likely to cause splitting. Predrilling the larger wood screws is a good move, especially when repairing older, wooden trees. Avoid placing either type of screw in a straight line, aligned with the grain of the wood in the tree
  9. Bellies would be the place to cut many of the pieces you are not planning on replacing so the short answer would be that you don't need them for the saddle, itself. Plugging (IMHO) is an excuse for not having enough leather that is heavy enough for skirts but plugged is better than too light and not plugged. You have seen enough reasons for having 2 sides to work with and planning to have a lot left over for the next project. Blocked vs unblocked is a no-brainer (IMHO) rough cut skirts first, block, then mark the final lines, such as the bottom line, meeting in the back the way you prefer and aligning perfectly with the front jockeys on the seat, then make the final cuts after the blocking has dried. Buy woolskins large enough to be able to lay out the skirt linings properly and be OK with having plenty left over but resist the temptation to line things such as breast collars or rifle scabbards as sheep wool plus sweat and other grime that is attracted to wet (or oily) places equals extra abrasion. Breast collars that fit and are adjusted properly don't need padding. If you feel the need to line a breast collar, opt for something that will result in smooth, continuous contact such as grain side out latigo or light weight veg tan (a candidate for the skirting bellies you will have if you buy 2 sides).
  10. Leather is not plywood and if you are not building an entire saddle, you may find yourself wishing you had 2 sides instead of just one. That said, one side should have more than enough square footage for your needs though perhaps not yield the ideal places for some of the pieces, get some of the mentioned books/dvds that give you suggested cutting layouts and study those against the "typical" side of leather in terms of things like firmness, weight, stretchiness, flexibility, and then make your decision. NOTE: The Chahin from Weaver is a good buy but picking a source where the minimums fit your budget may lead you to try other things.
  11. sadlle restoration

    Dry wall screws are a good replacement for most tacks and nails in saddle work. Ring shank nails are a big no-no
  12. saddle fleece

    Read other threads on this forum
  13. Synthetic shearling for saddle

    It has no place on quality work, period, regardless of price.