oltoot

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About oltoot

  • Rank
    Leatherworker
  • Birthday 03/29/1943

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wyoming
  • Interests
    General leather related

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saddlemaker
  • Interested in learning about
    tools, supplies
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  1. You didn't ask about needle and awl vs single needle. BSS alluded to it but didn't go into depth. If I were you (which I am not being old and wore out instead of young and still finding a groove) I would put the following at the top of my list but I would not wait forever if my needs were more urgent): A #3 Landis still on a treadle stand that has never been motorized. Your budget may be the driving force and the amount of time you have to learn may lead you to one of the 441 clone dealers. You can outdo your hand stitching with any properly adjusted stitcher. If you go with a 441 clone, pick a dealer, not just a seller. This will be the exception to the rules about $$. A few extra for service and coaching will be well spent if they turn out to be needed. Good luck to you and remember that no matter what machine you pick you will still need to handsew (or hand finish) some parts. Buena suerte
  2. I always wanted to (or felt I needed to) use just a little bit heavier leather than Al Stohlman prescribed and this would make a pattern just a little too small and as for left handed, just turn the right handed pattern over and voila!
  3. My approach: first build a core of PVC, there are many sizes and weights available, then shape with colored duct tape or something similar, then cover with Kangaroo lace or rawhide, my knot of preference is a pineapple raised however many times it takes to cover the core nicely. Scarves vary in bulk depending on size and fabric. I have ~ 40 of various colors and fabrics to match each one of my shirts. I regularly use 4 different slides, 2 rawhide and 2 kangaroo. I give slides as presents since I wouldn't pay what I would have to charge if I sold them. Just my 2 cents
  4. Learn to use a draw gauge and when you do, you'll never look back. Like all tools, learn to sharpen and then, not the only way, just my way, select blades with a sharp point and punch in to the beginning of the strap leaving ~ 1/2 inch attached to make handling the strap easier then cut it loose after finishing.
  5. The only way to guarantee never to break another awl blade is to quit sewing. After awhile you will become a connesueir of certain types of awl blade construction and still will have to deal with a broken one once in awhile. Learning to aim first and follow through without adjusting mid stroke to try to get it to come out straight will come with time.
  6. Sonny Felkins, Quality Mfg., Monticello, Utah
  7. Myself, I have settled on 3/8 thick, hollow ground, straight for the vast majority of work. Blade control accommodates varying tasks better than trying to switch blades, IMHO
  8. I'm late, I know, but here is what I came to while I was saving for a needle and awl stitcher (and putting in a pitch for a new UL, it is still going strong after 40+ years and 100's of sheepskins sewed with ease). Glue sheepskin down (I use Barges) then trim off to about 1/4 from edge, if you have large scissors you can pre trim the fleece at an angle thus reducing the amount you will have to deal with, then as you go, wet the fleece thoroughly about 1" from edge with a sponge, you will find that you can part the fleece from the awl tip as it pokes through and keep it parted long enough to pass by. When done just squeeze out the water and let it dry before trimming to edge.
  9. All good responses. Know your leather. If you were paying for #1 backs, you would have the right to expect "ssmooth" flesh sides, if Tannery Run sides then you would expect to find some flanky spots
  10. Yes, but you cant do as good a job. And to do it right you will need to fit a top plug of plywood over the metal. Recovering over the swell cover is pretty much OK if it's going to be covered up with a mulehide wrap and then a rubber overwrap and can be done much cheaper. As long as it's thoroughly explained and customer get's to choose.
  11. TIP "faux" molding with just your fingers before tooling then final molding will help a little
  12. 1,3,and 8
  13. Too much to be called a rebuild
  14. How many feet of string?