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About Squilchuck

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    Wenatchee, WA

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  1. I did a standard cantle binding on the first saddle I made and worried to death about the look of the backside stitches. So, I decided to use the hidden back stitch technique in Stohlman's book. It looks great and made stitching much easier not finessing the back stitch. I'm making a third saddle now and suppose I should buck up and take the challenge of an exposed stitch line, hmmm. -- John
  2. Barry King has great customer service. My BK swivel knife and blade work great. Contact him w your problem and I'll bet he sends you a new blade. --John
  3. Thanks for the education! All good reasons for bucking rolls. I like that you can take them off. I am making a Wade saddle now to see how I like 'em and use for ranch roping. Just might make bucking rolls too. --John
  4. Nice work. I never have understood bucking rolls. Use a nice slick fork saddle then put bucking rolls on it? Why not just get a swell fork saddle in the first place? Do you just like the look of them? Educate me please! - John
  5. The only time I've broken needles is stitching through existing holes while refleecing a saddle. The skirting was slightly bent and deflected the needle onto the feed dog - broken needle! I broke a couple before figuring it out. So, your story rung a bell. My Cobra 4 works great and I have always gotten great service from Steve and his staff. I especially appreciate him coming up for the Pendleton show, which gives me a chance to ask questions in person. -- John
  6. I have tried to use the smallest loop of my Osborne compass groover for this task, but it shaves leather off the side of the groove, especially with old worn skirts. This doesn't happen with the patent leather tool? I suppose you use a #1 groove or is #2 best for the large thread used for skirts? -- John
  7. Thanks, Ron. I cut the legs ten inches based on the JW video where he twists the leg but does not wrap. I fastened the leathers but have not twisted and set them. I see what you mean - not enough length for a latigo wrap. I have the Pete Gorrel book from Leather Crafters journal and he recommends a 12" leg as you did for a wrapped leg. I should have read that chapter before cutting. Well, I'm learning all the time! I'll twist and set without the wrap and see how I like it. At worst I buy another skirting side and cut new fenders. -- John. PS I decided to not split the leathers.
  8. Leathers are full length and 3" wide. The section from fender bottom to buckle is 10" long. The saddle is a Wade intended for ranch roping and general use
  9. Do you split (thin) the bottom of your twisted stirrup leathers, and, if yes, by how much? I am working on a third saddle using Jeremiah Watts' video, along with the Stohlman and Adams books. JM says to split the bottom 24" of the stirrup leather where it attaches to the fender to reduce bulk at the bottom of fenders that are turned/twisted when set, but he does not say how much to thin the leather. I did not twist or split the leathers on the other saddles I made. I am using 11/13 oz HO skirting on this saddle, so wonder about the need to split to reduce bulk and facilitate the twist and set. Got any advice on whether to split or how much to thin 11/13 oz skirting leathers? --John
  10. I've thought about buying one too, but just don't cut enough rosettes for the cost. Then too maybe you want several sizes. Stohlman shows in his saddle making book how to punch your own with a drive punch ground into a half circle. Doesn't take long to make a rosette and I can make them any size I need for the low cost of a drive punch. -- John
  11. In addition to an online school, some sort of mentoring program might be of interest for some new makers. I have made a couple saddles self taught w books and videos, but also have mentoring from a local journeyman saddle maker to advise me when I run into problems or have questions. This forum is great for some problem solving, but interaction time is slow (days) and limited. A person could setup an appointment via an online video app like Skype to discuss issues, show what they have done, etc. Not sure how you'd work out payment, but maybe people could subscribe for a set amount of sessions or total time. That could prove a valuable service for new makers without local mentoring options. --John
  12. Check out the Stohlman case making books. Invaluable books for making all kinds cases. Vol 1 shows how to make a rod case and round cases to adapt for a fly reel. You can buy them from Tandy. Get the whole set - they are worth the small cost. --John
  13. Get the Stohlman saddle-making books. I think Tandy sells them in one volume now. A great investment for a novice saddle maker. They often go on sale for $70. They will show you in clearly explained detail with text and diagrams how to make laced and welted swell covers, and everything else too. I'm a novice maker who has made two saddles using the Stohlman and Adams books. One saddle had a laced swell and the other a welted swell. Not sure which was easier - maybe lacing. I found Stohlman's instructions easier to follow. I think it would be difficult to explain in this forum without diagrams or pictures. --John
  14. Thor says it well. You'd need to double your price range to get even a startup saddle maker interested, I'd guess. There are some threads on this forum discussing prices for custom saddles. I'm recalling $3000-3500 was about the average rate for a plain custom saddle from a well-established maker, and higher for top makers. There were some makers that would make such saddle for $2000-$2500, though. --John
  15. Thanks, I'll try that method. -- John