• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Squilchuck

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    Wenatchee, WA

Recent Profile Visitors

1,938 profile views
  1. Thanks, Ron. I cut the legs ten inches based on the JW video where he twists the leg but does not wrap. I fastened the leathers but have not twisted and set them. I see what you mean - not enough length for a latigo wrap. I have the Pete Gorrel book from Leather Crafters journal and he recommends a 12" leg as you did for a wrapped leg. I should have read that chapter before cutting. Well, I'm learning all the time! I'll twist and set without the wrap and see how I like it. At worst I buy another skirting side and cut new fenders. -- John. PS I decided to not split the leathers.
  2. Leathers are full length and 3" wide. The section from fender bottom to buckle is 10" long. The saddle is a Wade intended for ranch roping and general use
  3. Do you split (thin) the bottom of your twisted stirrup leathers, and, if yes, by how much? I am working on a third saddle using Jeremiah Watts' video, along with the Stohlman and Adams books. JM says to split the bottom 24" of the stirrup leather where it attaches to the fender to reduce bulk at the bottom of fenders that are turned/twisted when set, but he does not say how much to thin the leather. I did not twist or split the leathers on the other saddles I made. I am using 11/13 oz HO skirting on this saddle, so wonder about the need to split to reduce bulk and facilitate the twist and set. Got any advice on whether to split or how much to thin 11/13 oz skirting leathers? --John
  4. I've thought about buying one too, but just don't cut enough rosettes for the cost. Then too maybe you want several sizes. Stohlman shows in his saddle making book how to punch your own with a drive punch ground into a half circle. Doesn't take long to make a rosette and I can make them any size I need for the low cost of a drive punch. -- John
  5. In addition to an online school, some sort of mentoring program might be of interest for some new makers. I have made a couple saddles self taught w books and videos, but also have mentoring from a local journeyman saddle maker to advise me when I run into problems or have questions. This forum is great for some problem solving, but interaction time is slow (days) and limited. A person could setup an appointment via an online video app like Skype to discuss issues, show what they have done, etc. Not sure how you'd work out payment, but maybe people could subscribe for a set amount of sessions or total time. That could prove a valuable service for new makers without local mentoring options. --John
  6. Check out the Stohlman case making books. Invaluable books for making all kinds cases. Vol 1 shows how to make a rod case and round cases to adapt for a fly reel. You can buy them from Tandy. Get the whole set - they are worth the small cost. --John
  7. Get the Stohlman saddle-making books. I think Tandy sells them in one volume now. A great investment for a novice saddle maker. They often go on sale for $70. They will show you in clearly explained detail with text and diagrams how to make laced and welted swell covers, and everything else too. I'm a novice maker who has made two saddles using the Stohlman and Adams books. One saddle had a laced swell and the other a welted swell. Not sure which was easier - maybe lacing. I found Stohlman's instructions easier to follow. I think it would be difficult to explain in this forum without diagrams or pictures. --John
  8. Thor says it well. You'd need to double your price range to get even a startup saddle maker interested, I'd guess. There are some threads on this forum discussing prices for custom saddles. I'm recalling $3000-3500 was about the average rate for a plain custom saddle from a well-established maker, and higher for top makers. There were some makers that would make such saddle for $2000-$2500, though. --John
  9. Thanks, I'll try that method. -- John
  10. Randy, how did you end up replacing the dees? I have the same issue. Fleece on the saddle I am repairing is synthetic, so has mesh fabric backing. I am curious to know if your method went well before I choose. Replacing dees by screwing to tree is not viable with owner I think -- John
  11. Thanks for the responses! Guess I'll order right and left sides for the best cutting options. I'll have to ruminate over the rumen stretch theory. Interesting! --John
  12. Yes, I meant ordering a right and left vs. two rights or two lefts or potluck - not from the same cow Jeremiah Watt says in his saddle-making video that he orders 5 right and 5 left sides from HO then pairs them for color and size for a saddle. I have heard or read of ordering right-left sides elsewhere too. Yes, positioning your pattern on the hide to optimize stiffness or stretch etc. is critical for quality work, but I could lay out my right and left skirt patterns side by side in.a single side of leather (as JW does in the video) and get nearly similar pieces in terms of thickness and stiffness etc. Still a puzzle!
  13. I've made two saddles but have not figured out the reason for ordering both right and left skirting leather sides vs. two sides from the same side of the cow. Enlighten me, please! --John
  14. Thanks for the advice - I greatly appreciate it. It is a steer wrestler's saddle, so a horn wrap won't work. I took Bruce's advice and the swell cover came off without too much work. I found the horn not wrapped in bull hide with the rest of the tree, and I had to rebuild the wood horn cap. Learn something new all the time! --John
  15. Someone asked me to recover the horn on a saddle. I have made two saddles and recovered the horn on a used saddle, so know the process for replacing the cover. The swell cover came off easily on the first saddle I repaired, but the swell cover on the one I am currently working on is firmly cemented with contact cement. I have tussled with it a bit on the edges, but before I get too far into muscling it off I wonder if there is an alternative to simple muscle power and tools to separate the pieces? Can I use a heat gun on low heat directed at the interface between cover and tree, or something else, to soften and loosen the bond between swell cover and tree? Thanks. --John