Squilchuck

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About Squilchuck

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    Wenatchee, WA

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  1. If you buy one book make it the Stohlman book. A wealth of easy of follow instructions and explanations. Great hand-drawn illustrations. His way of making some saddle parts is unique, based on my novice experience and comments from others here, but many processes are pretty conventional (like making stirrup leathers and fenders). --John
  2. Only buckstitched a few times, but a few things that might bunch the leather occur to me. Pulling lace too tight. Lace too thick or not beveled. Holes too close together. Lace not dampened to make it conform. Tandy sells a great short booklet on buckstitching. Seems you could dampen completed project and pound gently --John
  3. Use high quality skirting leather - Herman Oak and Wicket and Craig are the best. Weaver also sells Chahin which seems to get some good reviews. Weight (thickness) might depend on the rest of the saddle: 11/13 or13/15 Oz. Use bark tanned shearing I buy from Montana Leather, Hide House, and Weaver. Get a copy of Stohlman's saddle-making book from Tandy or Harry Adams book to show you how to do saddle work. I use self-tapping cabinet screws, lathe nails, or sometimes blue tacks --John
  4. I have dis mantled my first saddle. it is a 1974 circle y roping saddle.  is it necessary to re use the ring type nails or can i just use galvanised nails of the same length and size(on the rebuild) ? thanks so much

    1. Show previous comments  2 more
    2. Squilchuck

      Squilchuck

      Use the same holes that the nails were in.  I'd put screws (1" drywall, or cabinet screws) in the front where the skirt meets the fork and behind fork via hand hole. Put a couple regular or galv nails in between.  If skirt had nails in back into bottom of cattle then replace w galv nails.  Spread the fleece w your fingers to keep it catching in screw when driving screws.

    3. Squilchuck

      Squilchuck

      A recent post suggested lathe nails  I have used those too  in place of ring or galv nails

    4. Squilchuck

      Squilchuck

      If you using real fleece be sure to get bark tanned fleece.  Get a piece at least 10 sq ft large. I think Tandy has it on sale now.  I get it from Weaver.  Cut out w front of skirt at butt end of fleece and bottom of skirt along back of sheep not belly 

  5. thanks for the advice. this is my first refleece and i didnt want to screw up a 120.00 piece of shearling.but if i have to get two yards then the difference in price may not be that much. thanks again

  6. Great idea! In had the same issue making a 9' long leash. Didn't think about cutting it like lace - I cut two pieces and connected with a glued and sewn splice. -- John
  7. Also, the thickness seemed a bit less than advertised. Definitely not as dense as real shearling, hence less cushion and durability on a saddle.
  8. I bought some from Weaver. Don't recall the price, but inexpensive and seemingly good quality. Weaver sells quality goods. I used rubber cement. I don't use it for saddles, though. Why not use the best bark-tanned shearling for a saddle, instead of imitation, unless price is a factor on a replacement job? I'd get two yards. --John
  9. One more question. How did you like the Chahin leather? Can you compare it with Herman Oak?
  10. Very nice! Is that the Stohlman design with your added touches (binding, etc.)? The satin finish looks great - how did you treat the raw leather?
  11. I did a standard cantle binding on the first saddle I made and worried to death about the look of the backside stitches. So, I decided to use the hidden back stitch technique in Stohlman's book. It looks great and made stitching much easier not finessing the back stitch. I'm making a third saddle now and suppose I should buck up and take the challenge of an exposed stitch line, hmmm. -- John
  12. Barry King has great customer service. My BK swivel knife and blade work great. Contact him w your problem and I'll bet he sends you a new blade. --John
  13. Thanks for the education! All good reasons for bucking rolls. I like that you can take them off. I am making a Wade saddle now to see how I like 'em and use for ranch roping. Just might make bucking rolls too. --John
  14. Nice work. I never have understood bucking rolls. Use a nice slick fork saddle then put bucking rolls on it? Why not just get a swell fork saddle in the first place? Do you just like the look of them? Educate me please! - John
  15. The only time I've broken needles is stitching through existing holes while refleecing a saddle. The skirting was slightly bent and deflected the needle onto the feed dog - broken needle! I broke a couple before figuring it out. So, your story rung a bell. My Cobra 4 works great and I have always gotten great service from Steve and his staff. I especially appreciate him coming up for the Pendleton show, which gives me a chance to ask questions in person. -- John