johnv474

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  1. Oh thanks. I'll go back and reread his message. He might have just been trying to weed out small buyers.
  2. I thought the metal plates on lasts were there for a reason. IIRC, the plates allow you to use clinching nails, which have a very fine tip. The clinching nails will bend over when they encounter the metal plate (which helps hold the nailed leather down and helps keep the nail from withdrawing). Additionally, the clinching effect of the nail will keep the nail from working its way into the shoe (ie someone's foot) when in use. I am not a shoemaker by any means, and I may not be understanding properly what you are experiencing. I hope it's helpful in any case.
  3. For cutting and finishing sole leather, look to the people who do it most: shoemakers and shoe repair people. Cutting is commonly done with a machine similar to that posted by gigi, but it is used to cut the soling oversized and then sand it down to size. Typically this is done with belt sanders, following a sequence of 24 or 40 grit, then 80 or 100 grit, then 120-200 grit. At that point, people differ on whether they use ink, dressing, or wax. Ink, aka burnishing ink, is applied as a liquid with a dauber to the edge. The ink is left to dry, and then it is burnished via a rotating horsehair wheel. Others use sole & heel edge dressing, which is a bit thicker than ink, but applied and used the same way. Still others use hard wax (Yankee Wax is a common one). The wax is very hard as is applied to a rotating wheel, a "flap wheel" of leather. The wax is then applied to the edge of the leather by holding the edge to the wheel. Once applied, the edge is taken to the horsehair wheel to burnish/shine. That is typically how they do it. If you have to do the finishing by hand, then I would look at the edge ink or edge dressing, because they would be easier to shine up by hand than the very hard wax. In any case it would be uncommon not to see sanding first. If you don't have access to a belt sander, then a small sanding wheel in a Dremel or other rotary tool can do the job adequately.
  4. LeFarc. That is the leather used by Saddleback, among others.
  5. The awl dimension would be affected by the stitch spacing and thread size. However, if you are looking for something on the fine side, you could start with something like 8 spi and a thread that is approx .04 inch in diameter, and an all that is 1.5" long and 1/8" wide at the widest point. Of the 1.5" long awl, approximately half of it would be buried in the awl handle, leaving 3/4" to 1" exposed. You would want the awl blade to reach its full width, say, 1/4" from the base of the *exposed* awl... so roughly 1/2" - 3/4" in from the tip. The more gradual the awl tip gets to full width, the easier it will be to pierce the leather (but the more delicate the tip). This is not an exact science because there is a degree of preference for looks etc., but that gives you some numbers to start with.
  6. If it's actually latigo, it will probably have a greasy feel to it, like bacon. It is quite difficult to waterproof and keep the colors from bleeding because of all the oils they contain. You can try Resolene, diluted 50:50 with water, and apply per the instructions, and then follow that up with a wax-based layer (such as clear shoe polish). This isn't a guaranteed solution, but would be a good start.
  7. Found it. In the 2004 Tandy Leather Factory catalog. Retailed for $169.99. Here's the description for those who search for this later. 35011-00 Al Stohlman Brand Copper Riveting Set
  8. Can anyone tell me about this set of "Al Stohlman Brand" copper rivet setters? I know of other Al Stohlman or "AS Brand" tools but can't find a part number or year printed on it. There are three sets: 8-9 gauge, 10 gauge, and 12-14 gauge. Each set has a burr/washer setter, the cap domer and the tip domer. Does anyone know about how recently these were still for sale, or what they sold for?
  9. That is a broad question. Look up British Museum Leather Dressing and Renaissance wax for museum-quality restoration. Otherwise look at shoe repair products. They often are asked to 'restore' leather goods.
  10. It looks good. With that significant of a curve, it would be easier to apply a flat, not turned, lining. You're off to a good start.
  11. If it's oil-tanned, the oil will migrate some. When used for work boots, etc., the extra flexibility and water-resistance is worth the risk of stained socks after walking in a puddle. For a camera case I would look at something that had its water-resistance from wax not oil, so perhaps bridle or just plain veg tan. You can use Lexol conditioner more safely than some oils because it does not migrate as much. Also, you can line it with fabric or veg tan to protect the camera equipment, as well as applying water and stain protectant to the case inside and out.
  12. If you want fast and effective edge treatments, look at what are done by larger-production manufacturers. Usually burnishing is not involved (in the usual sense we talk of it). It's more common to just use edge dye or similar and be done with it. I am not aware of a fast and also effective and also inexpensive approach. But if the cost isn't what matters then look at leather flap wheels ($90) and motor-mounted horsehair brush wheels ($90) and the various burnishing inks or waxes that are available from Fiebings or others. Last I saw, a machine for this purpose cost a few thousand dollars, used, and included three or four sanding stations. Shoe repair shops have them. That said, even with a machine it takes skill and practice to do it well... even if it could be faster.
  13. I don't understand what you are trying to do. You want your leather not to scratch? What effect is sunlight having that you don't want? Are you trying to find out where Premo gets their leather from? Do you think their leathers do not have the same issues yours do? Or are you just looking for a new source for veg tan leather? There are many.
  14. Have you tried diluting your Resolene? 50:50 with water and then applying two thin coats is usually enough to prevent it from looking plasticky at all. I use it this way on all of my projects.
  15. You might need to post a picture/drawing of what the bag looks like. A picture is worth a thousand words in that regard. In general, a liner can just be glued to the panel it is lining, but you are also talking about a drop-in liner. You can do turned edges if the leather lining is stretchy. Otherwise, anything involving curves can be done but requires greater effort, like cutting wedges out.