johnv474

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About johnv474

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  1. work boot making equipment

    First, I'll say that shoe and bootmaking is a big endeavor, and you certainly will not save money in making your own, unless you have lots of time and are willing to do most of it by hand. You will need lasts (forms) to work around that are in the size and style you want. Shoe-last-shop.com is one option. You will need a patching sewing machine, similar to a Singer 29k, for sewing the uppers together (or, do by hand). You will need knives for cutting and skiving, cements, etc. You will need either a McKay or a curved needle like a Landis 12 for sewing the uppers and soles together. (Or, do this by hand, like D W Frommer from thehcc.org). You will want sanding equipment (belt sander) in 24 to 120 grit, and about 2 more grits between. There's more. Check ebay and Craigslist for shoe repair equipment. Much of it overlaps with shoemaking equipment.
  2. Leather Jack Saps Filled With Lead Shot

    These look very well made. However check your local laws about selling--or even owning--these. In many places saps are illegal due to a very, ahem, colorful history of overuse by police departments. These can cause a person trouble.
  3. Leather Carving Styles....

    There is a great book available free online called Handbook of Ornament, by Meyer. He was a professor of architecture, I think. The book is from the early 1900s and goes through the types of design / decoration people have used since ancient times to more modern. There are tons of illustrations of geometric (think: Middle Eastern mosaic tiles), animal, plant, etc., with explanations. From it I was able to invent a few patterns and invent a couple of crest/shield type designs.
  4. Question on simple mass cutting

    Could you use a shear, like bookbinders use for cutting stacks of paper? You could set up a jig to hold the leather x distance from the blade, then cut through a stack of leather at once. You'd need to do that for each of the sides, or just feed a stack of belt strips 3.75" wide through it.
  5. What happens if you just glue/stitch the edges of the liner, leaving the center loose? If the liner is not adhered it seems it would not be forced to bunch up.
  6. Basic stitching tool related question

    I have owned several chisels. The ones that created the best stitches were not always the ones that were the most durable. Of the less expensive ones, Tandy's Craftool have been the most durable. GoodsJapan were also durable but eventually I lost a few prongs from the smaller sizes (8 spi). The GoodsJapan definitely gave a nicer looking stitch.
  7. Best Prices Goodyear Neolite

    They are sheets of the material that contacts the ground to replace worn heels on shoes.
  8. Best Prices Goodyear Neolite

    Landwerlen Leather 317-636-8300. Goodyear 10.5 iron Neolite Toplifting strip 18" x18" in Neutral or Oak. $19.50/sheet. You pay (actual) shipping.
  9. Best Prices Goodyear Neolite

    Do you remember where you were buying from? If you buy from one of the shoe finder warehouses, these materials should be available at a wholesale type of price.
  10. Contact Cement for Harness Leather

    If you have access to Master (or Barge) cement, you may be able to buy Master (or Barge) thinner. Usually it is sold by the quart for about 2/3 the price of the cement. It is useful for thinning cement that has become thicker from evaporation of the solvents in the container. In the case of harness, sand/scuff both edges to be cemented together, and then wipe a time or two with thinner. The thinner will help remove oils/waxes near the surface so the cement can soak in deeper. Then, thin out a small amount of cement and brush on a thin coat of cement. Let it dry entirely (longer than usual for cementing together). Then, apply a second coat of regular, undiluted cement (or, if it's all you have, a second and third coat of thinned cement). Let dry to the point of losing its initial gloss, about 5 minutes, and then put the two pieces together under pressure. Tap or pound if possible. Then leave them untouched for an hour for the cement to finish doing its magic. The first coat soaks in deeper, carrying the cement further in, and dries to a type of primer coat. Then the second coat can adhere to the primer even if it would have difficulty sticking directly to the oily, waxy harness leather.
  11. Saving Patterns

    For small-ish patterns I transfer them to a single notebook dedicated to this purpose. The one I use is from the Scientific Notebook company. (This company sells notebooks so people can protect intellectual property). The notebook is about 9x11 and has 1/4" grid marks. In fact nearly all projects I do will have my drawings, sketches, and final versions entered into this notebook... sometimes stapled or taped. Large patterns can take more than one page so I use spots I can use to align them in case I have to reproduce a template. Having notes about the total dimensions for different pieces/panels acts as a check that I have aligned them correctly. Many patterns are symmetrical, so only keeping one half (up to the center line) is enough to reproduce a template if needed. An quick 'n' dirty approach for large patterns is to place them on a large cutting mat (the kind with a 1" grid), stand high on a chair, and take several photos with my phone, backed up online. Sometimes I take pictures of pages of the notebook for the same reason.
  12. Glow-in-the-Dark Thread

    Check your nearest army-navy surplus store for nano cord. Imagine paracord in tiny diameters, 1.2mm and 0.75mm. I bought a spool of it for about $6. It's braided polyester that I thought could compete with Tiger thread. It doesn''t really, but it is thin enough to sew with and is available in many colors including glow-in-the-dark. It is made by Atwood Rope Mfg.
  13. Cleaning Shearling

    It's not likely to have gathered mildew because shearling contains some antimicrobial substances naturally. That said, I would use either woolite (it is wool, after all) or a gentle ckeaner like Lincoln EZ Cleaner. There are probably shearling-specific cleaners but I'm not aware of them.
  14. Line 20 snaps, not Tandy

    CS Osborne makes line 20 snaps in the USA in both brass and steel with different finishes.
  15. Automotive Door Panel Recovery

    I am not an upholsterer but here is how I would approach it. You could take painters tape and some posterboard, and keep cutting and taping and cutting and taping until you have those pieces in the shape you want. Then, cut the posterboard with scissors as little as possible so that the posterbpard lies flat. Anywhere you cut to make it lie flat would be an area that you will have a seam (or you will have to stretch the leather there). In case of a seam there, cut your leather about 1/2" wider than where you cut the posterboard, so you can fold those edges back and make a French seam (see Youtube for that). You will probably either use spray adhesive like the 3M 303 (I think is the name) or a multi-purpose contact cement... Not an all-purpose contact cement, because those do not stick to vinyl. Renia Colle de Cologne is one brand. You may need to cement in a portion and then let it dry so that you can cement in the next portion while stretching.