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  1. This is not a perfect answer, but could you sew them and them and then wet form again? You may have to alter your original mold to accommodate a shim/spacer you insert after.
  2. Ohio Travel Bag has 1 inch strap loop in gold. You can find it by searching for strap loop. It is not antique but you could have it antiqued, if you don't find another source.
  3. If you can use 3-4 Oz instead of 2-3 Oz, you can get either (single or double) shoulders or sides from Landwerlen Leather 317-636-8300. Usually $5.75 or so/ft so double shoulders are $40-70 or so, averaging 11 ft. Fair disclosure, I work there. There are also 9-10 and 10-11 shoulders for $6.95/ft, averaging 15 ft for a double.
  4. That's great. Once a person has some fixed designs that they make, they would do well to invest in jigs/tools that make consistency easy. Thanks for posting!
  5. Hey Trunkdreamingnewbie I share your interest in steamer trunka and the many variations that existed. Attached is a neat PDF called A Potted History of Leathergoods, written by a professor of fine leatherworking. His books suggested starting with straps, because much of the basics you need tp learn are included in straps (measuring, cutting, sewing, setting hardware, finishing edges, etc.). And you will find that straps and belts and bracelets and suspenders are all strap-related... Plus, straps don't require huge amounts of material. So jump in and make yourself a belt, then make some more belts, and soon you will be covering a trunk in leather, knowing that the straps and handles you make will deserve the attention they get. A Potted History Of Leather V3.pdf
  6. I just Googled it and found some item descriptions that looked like 14" diameter by 6" tall or so. I'm guessing it's 8-9 oz minimum (but don't know).
  7. One of the ingredients I use on some products is beef tallow, which is also a product made from the same animal.
  8. Gum trag is water soluble I believeso if you wipe thae edge with a damp rag maybe you could remove enough for dye to get in? Otherwise, sand it to scuff up. The stickie in this forum (Edge Finishing) suggests using a bar of glycerin saddle soap to burnish if you want to dye the edge becauae it doesn't block dye.
  9. Birkenstock's lining doesn't appear sewn. If you use contact cement you shoukd be okay.
  10. sealing

    A common suggestion would be to use a product called Resolene, which is a clear acrylic sealer. However, if you do, be sure to dilute it 50:50 with water because it comes pretty concentrated and so full-strength can look too glossy and plasticky. The diluted version gives a satin type sheen I'd say. If you can I'd test it on a scrap of leather that has Sharpie on it. The test would be to see if it smeared the Sharpie. I don't think it would, but better to check! It would depend on what type of ink a Sharpie has.
  11. I have used Mothers magnesium and aluminum wheel polish to polish tools, including pricking irons. I picked it up in the auto section of Walmart but I imagine any polishing compound for metals would work. I dip the pricking iron into this paste and then use a fleece wheel attached to a Dremel-type rotary tool to hit each side of each tooth. I leave the tool set to the sloweat speed because it flicks polish everywhere. I also use this setup for polishing other tools. I don't know if the results are perfect but it certainly works for my purposes.
  12. You can search patents on Google; there is a section devoted to them. That said, there are also a lot of manuals available online if you keep looking. Which specific machine are you trying to find drawings of?
  13. I have the same chisels and like them very much. If you notice them 'walking', it could be because their shape has one disadvantage. The piercing edge is almost flat (similar to many pricking irons but different from many chisels intended to be driven all the way through). Co-Link, Craftool, and many of the other chisels have a pointed tip, which is easier to locate in the groove and easier to centralize. That one disadvantage doesn't outweigh thr many advantages (to me). Because the piercing edge is nearly flat, these pierce leather quite easily and the hole on the back is the same size and shape as the one on the front... Similarly to a well-placed awl hole. This is true even on thin leathers. Many pricking irons will get quite wide if you pierce the leather very far (yet the hole on the back is flat), leaving the front and back different. Many stitching chisels will have a point and so on thin leathers will leave a smaller hole on the back unless you pound quite deeply into the thin leather and into whatever you have beneath it. There are pros and cons to every approach or tool, but I think Wuta's tip shape is why they could 'walk' on people accustomed to other chisels.
  14. The closest I can think of to 'restore' it would be to treat it with Lexol or similar conditioner and then apply Resolene (diluted 50:50 with water). The acrylic Resolene will act (a little) as an adhesive to hold it together. However that won't last by itself. There's no undoing leather deterioration. However, if you line it with thin new leather (using a good adhesive throughout and also sewing) then the liner will help keep the other leather together for longer.
  15. 9tpi, Congratulations on a very fine job. I, and obviously others, like it very much. I know the "Show Off!" Forum is working when seeing someone's project makes my want to jump into a new project of my own. If the customer had not insisted on CXL, what leather would you have preferred to use?