johnv474

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About johnv474

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  1. Flat (?) edge burnishing

    Tokonole is good, maybe better than CMC. Tokonole has a little wax in it that helps to shine the edge. CMC typically does not.
  2. Flat (?) edge burnishing

    The effect in the top pictures is from natural veg tan that had CMC (CarboxyMethyl Cellulose, I think) applied and then burnished by hand... meaning, using his hands. This is the work of a very talented artisan named Daisukenshin, I believe. He also only uses wing dividers and an awl--no stitch marking wheels or pricking irons or stitching chisels--as well as maybe a dozen tools that he has mastered, as opposed to hundreds of tools that he doesn't know as well. He is an incredibly talented leathercrafter, IMHO.
  3. SLC "oil tan" and yankee wax?

    Renia Yankee Wax. It is available from shoe repair supply houses such as Frankford Leather or Southern Leather. A triangular stick almost the size of a stick of butter should cost about $8.
  4. Double Welt questions

    Maybe post the same question in the Sewing Leather section? Perhaps more experienced eyes will see it there.
  5. Storing leather in small space

    I have used the USPS medium shipping tubes, which are triangular and 36" long, and keave one end open. They are available for free but intended for shipping. I do use them for shipping, and in doing so rotate out the ones I store leather in. They stack up and can hold large pieces of leather as well as small scraps of the same. The cardboard separates oily leather from dry leathers and it's easy to pull a particular piece out. I stack them in a closet and under a bed for longer storage.
  6. SLC "oil tan" and yankee wax?

    Yankee Wax is indeed very hard, but it will seal and shine the edges of even oil tanned leathers. It takes heat, though. We apply it with a leather wheel that spins on a motor and is coated in the stuff, then polish and smooth with a spinning brush. With a $5 candle warmer from Walmart, it can be melted and then applied with a scratch awl, pencil, or popsicle stick. It can then be smoothed/polished, section by section, with aggressive canvas rubbing and then lighter buffing with an old tshirt.
  7. I don't think Fiebings products are as commonly used with an electric edge creaser as much as some of the dedicated leather edge paints such as Vernis or Giardini. The best colors? Black and Dark Brown.
  8. Strongest Rivet Type - Finished Look

    Chicago screws are available in black coating. It will not last forever but a clear enamel or nail polish can extend that for a long time. Since neither brass nor stainless are black, the color, in practical terms, has to be a coating (unless you want to be paying far more than 25 cents apiece). You will have to decide whether you want the strongest or the strongest black. The strongest would be something like stainless with a really wide cap or a washer beneath it on both sides. It would be a lot stronger to have a few rows of stitching from end to end, but that greatly increases the labor. A brass Chicago screw has a 3/16" thick stem that is effectively solid brass once set. Most copper rivets are 1/8" stem or thinner, and copper is a softer metal than brass. A copper rivet in leather is considered a permanent type of attachment, so a brass thread-locked Chicago screw should be even more so... plus, they are simple to set.
  9. Does anyone make traditional clicking patterns?

    Harry, Thank you for sharing that link. I had read about these in some traditional leatherwork books and wanted to try some, but knew of no suppliers. I feared they could be obsolete. I am pleased to find out I was wrong on that point. Cheers
  10. sewing speed

    Once you get the rhythm down and have your holes made, or at least marked, then an inch a minute is a pretty good pace. It's possible to sew faster with the holes premade but the total time may be no faster. It's a good target to aim for. Obviously if someone is stitching 9 stitches per inch, this pace becomes more difficult but at 5-7 it's realistic. I try to get each step down to one second intervals: aim awl, stab, insert, pull, insert, pull, tighten, etc. I try not to rush and to move smoothly.
  11. What’s your opinion of the edge?

    You could try using a little white paper glue like Elmers or Fienings leathercradt cement. I have used a more expensive edge treatment that leaves a bit of sheen but I swear it looks, smells, and acts like those glues.
  12. First time repairing and altering boots

    Where I work sells it (a shoe findings warehouse). To be fair to other vendors, Frankfort and Southern Leather also sell it. Our shop is Landwerlen Leather in Indianapolis 317-636-8300 (no website). For as much as you should need it shouldn't cost much to get you some cut and dropped in the mail.
  13. Not to revive a 4-year old thread, but if others stumble across this post like I did then here is a photo of all the Pro Dyes next to each other. The color charts are not accurate. Instagram picture from Landwerlen - Pro Dyes
  14. If the idea is to make something that will squeak by then why bother making the stitching holes smaller? The only improvement is aesthetic (not that that's bad). That thread will be out of proportion for anything under about 10 stitches per inch. The reasons are not purely aesthetics. You have a piano wire and you wrap it around a block of cheese and pull. Now do the same with a thick rope and the same cheese. There's a reason seatbelts are not 1/2" wide, even though we have materials strong enough to not break.
  15. Cross Stitch on leather

    You can buy perforating bar stock You can buy 1/16" hole punches shaped like a pencil, or just the tubes for a rotary punch. These are threaded. Mount them in a piece or wood or grind/epoxy the four punches together and voila, a square, repeatable pattern. Expect the leather to tear through all over the place if you get to 3mm and lower unless you back the leather with a tear-resistant textile. All those holes makes it like the edge of a postage stamp.