johnv474

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About johnv474

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  1. What’s your opinion of the edge?

    You could try using a little white paper glue like Elmers or Fienings leathercradt cement. I have used a more expensive edge treatment that leaves a bit of sheen but I swear it looks, smells, and acts like those glues.
  2. First time repairing and altering boots

    Where I work sells it (a shoe findings warehouse). To be fair to other vendors, Frankfort and Southern Leather also sell it. Our shop is Landwerlen Leather in Indianapolis 317-636-8300 (no website). For as much as you should need it shouldn't cost much to get you some cut and dropped in the mail.
  3. Not to revive a 4-year old thread, but if others stumble across this post like I did then here is a photo of all the Pro Dyes next to each other. The color charts are not accurate. Instagram picture from Landwerlen - Pro Dyes
  4. If the idea is to make something that will squeak by then why bother making the stitching holes smaller? The only improvement is aesthetic (not that that's bad). That thread will be out of proportion for anything under about 10 stitches per inch. The reasons are not purely aesthetics. You have a piano wire and you wrap it around a block of cheese and pull. Now do the same with a thick rope and the same cheese. There's a reason seatbelts are not 1/2" wide, even though we have materials strong enough to not break.
  5. Cross Stitch on leather

    You can buy perforating bar stock You can buy 1/16" hole punches shaped like a pencil, or just the tubes for a rotary punch. These are threaded. Mount them in a piece or wood or grind/epoxy the four punches together and voila, a square, repeatable pattern. Expect the leather to tear through all over the place if you get to 3mm and lower unless you back the leather with a tear-resistant textile. All those holes makes it like the edge of a postage stamp.
  6. Saddle Soap Application Methods

    Use the bars of glycerin saddle soap. Also, saddle soap is soap and is water-soluble. You can clean up the edges and stitching by cleaning, eg with a damp sponge or brush.
  7. You can always dye with a soak-in penetrating dye using a damp sponge and then airbrushing. Or apply a heavy protective coat to protect the airbrushed dye from damage. Or dip dye and then use airbrush for special effects. Or saturate your leather with alcohol, such as in a baking pan, so it can continue to soak up alcohol while you spray it. Possibly, casing the leather using dish soap and water, would be worth attempting. Part of the snag is how much airbrushed dye is dry before it hits the surface. Therefore, not absorbed, plus eventually clocks subsequent dye from penetrating. I would also skip any water-based dye and skip the regular line of dyes and skip to the pro dyes.
  8. First time repairing and altering boots

    The V slot approach with elastic is the correct choice. Elastic is available up to about 12 inches wide that only stretches in one direction, and is made and used specifically for this. You can try to stretch but if the amount to stretch is more than about 1/2" it will take a long time and several things can go wrong... and if you don't have the proper stretcher then things can definitely go wrong.
  9. How to Seal Leather

    The dark areas are probably just oils and dirt from your hands. The sanding removed that, and some of the materials, and took smooth leather and made it fuzzier. Surely it had some sort of sealant or coating originally. Save yourself the fuss and just buy one of those kits that are used for changing the color of shoes. Find a shoe repair shop and ask. You want a surface coating type of dye (think: paint), not a soak-in type of dye. Pick the color that is closest, and follow the instructions. Then buy a clearcoat such as acrylic resolene. Angelus is one brand that makes these types of paint products and Tarrago Self Shone Shoe Dye kits are the ones I had in mind. Wood-n-Stuff also makes a product called Leather Refinish that works well. Any of these are easy enough to touch up if they get dirty in the future.
  10. Are you looking for a better result or just to save money? The leather looks scorched. You have spent this thread trying to figure out how to not spend money. Learning to burnish or skive is nearly free. In the alternative, you can bind by hand and sew with your machine, or by hand, with any thickness of leather you like. Or just use one of the many nearly free edge paints or treatments, or make your own.
  11. over oiled chaps

    Also, Dawn dish soap (blue) is pretty good at cutting oil. Rub enough for there to be a lather. It's quite difficult to remove oil from over-oiled leather but little by little it can help. If I could risk it, I would fill a bucket like I was going to wash a car, except using Dawn. Dip, work up a good lather while in the bucket, then rinse with a hose and hang/lay out to dry.
  12. All leather will give a little, and form and stretch while under tension or pressure, especially with added moisture and heat. Body heat/perspiration is one factor that contributes to this. On one hand, it is what allows leather to "break in" and fit just right... but aesthetically can make something look less new. My suggestion (speculation) would be that firmer leathers, cut from the butt (best) or shoulder (2nd best) would help. However you may want the inner layer to be somewhat softer so it is more comfortable to the wearer. Also, it seems that leathers that contain much oil or conditioner tend to stretch a bit more so I'd try to stick with drier leathers. It shouldn't have much stretch while you are handling/cutting your leather. Again, I'm speculating but I hope it helps.
  13. Weight of Landis 1 with stand?

    For anyone else browsing this thread, I moved one of these from a garage to a store. It took all of three young able-bodied men to tilt this machine onto the handtruck, and it took all three to push it up the ramp on a low trailer. Be sure it is strapped down well because they are heavy but also somewhat topheavy.
  14. Putting a crease in leather

    If you dampen it and bend it over the edge of a sturdy table or anvil, you can tap with a smooth faced hanmer to help set the crease.
  15. Print your own self bonding linings

    I really like this idea. Thanks for sharing!