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About keithpip

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  • Location
    Birmingham, Alabama

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Holsters and other gun/knife leather craft
  • Interested in learning about
    Tooling and carving
  • How did you find
    Google search
  1. Welcome to the forum from another Alabamian. If there's anything I can do to help you just shout out! Keith
  2. I used Fiebings black 50/50 on a tote bag for my wife. Applied it with a sponge. Got very good results.
  3. Dwight, Do you mind if I ask how you achieved that color? I've been trying to get that color but all my holsters come out too dark. I'm using various Fiebing's brown (light brown, British tan, tan) with no luck. Thanks, Keith
  4. Very, very elegant. I like it. Can I ask what thickness leather you used. Thanks for posting. Keith
  5. Bryan, thanks for sharing this with the forum. It's unique and I've never seen one like it. BTW, if the holster works for you that's all you need to be concerned with. Take care. Keith
  6. Yes, the 1917 3/4 flap holster, that's it! Thank you. Keith
  7. Does anybody know where I could find a pattern for the US 1917 holster? I saw one at a gun show this past weekend. I would have bought it if it weren't priced at $250. It's a neat holster and I have a gun that could use it but I'd rather make my own. Thanks. Keith
  8. I was attempting to stitch through a very thick welt when it occurred to me that is I were to wet the leather I might have an easier time getting the needle thru the welt. Well it worked but the water left these ugly stains on the leather. I'm more concerned about the front of holster but I would like to get rid of them altogether. Has anyone run across this problem? My wife said that it was the background paint on the carving that ran but that's not true. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I would have posted pictures but it said the file was too big to upload. Keith
  9. Nicely done! Keep up the good work. I like you're philosophy.
  10. I want to thank you for all your good advice. I'll post pics when the project is completed. Thanks again! Keith
  11. I'm about to dye my second holster project. This is a flap holster and have decided to use Fiebing's on the recommendation of my local Tandy Leather store. For my first holster I went with a Tandy product (Eco-something). It wasn't bad but since this flap holster will see hard use in the field Fiebing's was recommended since it's an oil based dye and would penetrate the leather more than the Eco-whatever. My question is this: I've been reading various posts here and it seems that everyone has there own process when it comes to dyeing. Some holster makers are using applications of oil (neatsfoot oil?) at some point in their process. I was simply going to use a swab and apply two coats of the Fiebing's according to the directions on the container. I just want the finished holster to look good and the finish stand up to hunting in the field. Can you tell me what products you use and your process please. Thanks in advance. Keith
  12. It's not that bad. Certainly serviceable. Put it in the bargain basement.
  13. Thanks to all who replied, your input has really helped me move this project along. I didn't think to cut the flap over size. It makes sense. Dwight: how did you attach the "USA" to the flap? Is it just glued in place? Thanks again! Keith
  14. I'm attempting to make a flap holster for a 4" Smith & Wesson Model 28 Highway Patrolman. I can't seem to get the project off the ground. I traced the outline of the gun onto paper but Al's book doesn't really address making a pattern for a flap holster. The first holster I made was pretty straightforward. I traced around the gun then draw an outline of the holster leaving 3/4" minimum extra from the muzzle and trigger guard. It's the flap that hanging me up. I've concluded that a flap holster is really very similar to a skirt holster only in reverse. The problem is drawing the flap (drawing is not one of my strong points) and getting the dimensions correct. Can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks! Keith