Josh Ashman

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About Josh Ashman

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    Southwest Missouri
  • Interests
    Leatherwork & Horses

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  1. Skirting is generally sold by the side, which is what you'd want. Yes, the fenders and jockeys would be cut out of the same leather and you should be able to get them from one side. Where the pieces are cut from the hide is critically important. Pick up the books John mentioned above and they will give you a bunch of insight on where to cut what and things to look for and think about when cutting saddle parts.
  2. I agree with what John has noted above and will only add that drywall screws are also a good choice. I use galv box nails and blue tacks to some degree, but the drywall screws are handy and easy to get back out when needed. Ol toot also mentioned them a while back and he has much more experience than I do. Good luck!
  3. If it were me I'd use 11/13 oz skirting leather. If you bought a full side you'd have plenty of leather to replace both stirrup leathers and both fenders. You could also buy pre-cut leathers and fenders if you didn't feel up to cutting them. I wouldn't replace just the one side and I wouldn't reuse the stirrup leather on the side you did replace. I'm not sure that you couldn't replace the saddle for the amount of money you'll put into repairing what you have, but if it's an exercise in learning there wouldn't be a point in that. If you make your own, ensure that once you rivet the bottom of the leather and fender together at whatever buckle you use that you fold them where they will go over stirrup itself before you rivet the top of the fender to the leathers. If you make them flat then the fender will be too tight when it goes around the stirrup. Good luck with your project. Josh
  4. I make the slots 1/8" wider than my flattened paper pattern on each side, so 1/4" wider overall. And I make my paper pattern with the top center of the pistol laid on a fold line then "rolled" to one side and the edge of the holster 3/4" from the edge of the pistol.
  5. Thanks Fred! I rolled through some old pictures and found a few more examples. Here is one that is a little more "period correct". It's a single layer with a laced mainseam. Here is one that is lined. As you can see the skirt and loop edges are all sewn. It's been a while since I built this one, but as I recall it was a real PITA to get stuffed through the loop. It didn't help that it was super short and I had the cartridge belt loop so tight. You can build them however you like.
  6. I've made many of this type of holster from a single piece of leather. I generally use 10/11, but 9/10 wouldn't be noticeably different. The pros and cons versus a lined holster with a comparable total thickness are minimal in my opinion. Basically it just comes down to personal preference. Although it is probably fair to say that a veg tan lined holster would be a little more work and would be considered to be better due to the smooth leather against the gun and being more rigid. If you're using good quality leather these will be somewhat minimal as the flesh side will already be fairly smooth and at 10 oz it'll be plenty rigid whether it's one layer or two. Most of the old holsters I've seen are single layer but not all of them. One of mine for reference. Good luck on your project. Josh
  7. Good looking holster Bobby! Out of curiosity, do you end the liner before you make the loops in the skirt? Semper Fi
  8. Again, just my 2 cents but a total thickness of 13/14 is fine to be bent and formed, it happens in saddle work all of the time. A person could certainly make a lined loop holster with leather that thick. That said, if it were me I'm not sure I'd want to. I like a thick, hefty holster as much as the next person but a total thickness of 10/11 seems plenty thick to me, especially if it were made up of 2 layers back to back. Your project so of course you should do as you want. I'd ensure to have it well cased when forming to make it easier to form through the loop.
  9. As for the size of the loop cut my standard practice is to make the holster pattern on vellum printer paper with the pistol centered on a fold line then roll it to the side and trace around the bottom edge. Pretty standard Stohlman holster stuff. I make the edge of the leather 3/4" away from the pistol outline. then when I make the slots for the loop I make them 1/8" wider than the flat paper holster pattern. When I cut the leather out I'll use a 1/8" punch at the ends of the slots and cut an even transition from the hole punch to the slot cut. I've not had a problem getting the holster body tuck back through the slots yet. I typically use 10/11 leather with a single welt. IF you are concerned about the holster being loose in the loop, which really bugs me, then you can tie a thong through the holster body and skirt behind it to keep the holster body from wanting to pull up in the loop whenever the gun is drawn. Anyway, that works for me. Again, good luck on your project! Josh
  10. My 2 cents would be to fold the holster back through the loop whenever you wet mold it. Obviously you'd have to dye it first, unless you're dip dyeing, then it's probably OK t fold, mold then dye. If you are already stamping then wet molding afterwords you won't loose any more definition then you already are. Good luck with your project! Josh
  11. My goodness Clyde that is one clean looking saddle! I'm in awe of how slick the buffed rough out HO looks and how flush you got the swell welts. Really just an outstanding job! FYI, your calf looks like he wants out . All the best, Josh
  12. Looks like you're getting plenty of practice to me! I really like the Sheridan carving and the holster looks very functional in addition to the excellent carving, fit and finish. Really an all around great job!
  13. Thanks Ron!
  14. Nice job Matt!