Josh Ashman

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About Josh Ashman

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  • Location
    Southwest Missouri
  • Interests
    Leatherwork & Horses

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  1. You could do all that, and it'll probably work nicely. Or, you could use the awl by hand and spend the time and effort you would have used to build your hole stabbing machine to practice stabbing holes by hand. Good luck whichever way you go!
  2. Stamping Saddle Questions

    I've glued cased leather without issue. Specific times I can think of are the cantle back and seat and I also use Barge, sometimes Masters if it's cheaper. All the best! Josh
  3. When I hand stitched my process was somewhat similar. Instead of a drill press (don't have one) I used a regular awl blade and haft handle but I did "pre-stab" all my holes. I'd place one of those rubber "poundo" boards from Tandy over a cutting board and stab the holes straight down. the poundo board is basically just rubber and is roughly 1/4" thick. It kept my awl blade from going too deep and the cutting board kept it from getting dull too quick. Once the holes were stabbed I'd stitch it up using a saddle stitch (2 needles). I did make a home made stitching horse that I used all the time, but before I built it I got by with holding whatever I was sewing. To me, using the horse was faster because I could use both hands to stitch. Light leather gloves with a doubled up palm to keep fingers from getting sliced by the thread when pulling tight and for pushing the needle through. Finger tips and thumb tips cut off on both gloves for increased dexterity. Hand stitching holsters isn't bad at all. Hand stitching saddle skirts is not that fun! Good luck with your project! Josh
  4. Stamping Saddle Questions

    Hello Presley, I've built 4 saddles so I'm not any great source of information and I don't want to come off like I am. That said, I've followed the Stohlman books fairly close as far as basic process and been happy. If it were me I'd likely try to do something like this; Swells - stamp once they're in place. Bonus points if you can get them done while they are still cased from fitting. Skirts - stamp after blocking and before plugging. bonus points if you can stamp them while still cased from blocking. Rigging plates (if flat plate that drops to visible and you want to stamp) - stamp the front piece prior to assembling the plates. Rear jockies - I follow the process Stohlman lines out in book #2. It involves fitting temporary laces to get them fit up and multiple fit ups. they get tooled somewhere in the middle of that process. Cantle back - stamp it right before you glue it on. It works OK for me to tool it while it's still cased from fitting it but you may need to re-wet it a few times along the way. At least I've had to. Good luck! Someone who knows more than me will hopefully chime in and get you some good advice. All the best, Josh
  5. Very nice! Good job!!
  6. Hello TM, You're off to a good start. Looking at what you have there reminds me of a lot of my beginning projects! I highly recommend you find a copy of Al Stohlman's excellent book "how to make holsters", it's $13 on Amazon and probably available in every Tandy store if you have one of those near you. It has a section on how to lace up a holster. It also has some pointers on basket stamping and making borders. In addition it has some good (but dated) info on how to design holsters as well as many patterns that you can also use. Including a 1911 pattern that isn't terribly different that what you have there. I'm too slow at typing to try and pick out an answer that would be helpful to you and my advice probably isn't as good as it should be. Al's book will do a far better job than I could attempt. Again, good job on getting started! Also, good luck moving forward! Josh
  7. Righty Buscadero

    You're welcome Bodean! Thanks Bigfoote! Thanks Battlemunky! Thanks Plinker! I'm not exactly sure how much time I have into it. I generally put in a few hours each morning before my day job and sometimes a few hours in the evening or over the weekend. I worked on this for just over 2 weeks and my best guess is I have around 30 hours in it. If I did leather work full time I like to think that I'd get more done in one 8 or 10 hour day vs. 2 hours at a time over a 4 or 5 day period, but I might be kidding myself. Occasionally on a weekend were there is poor weather and I'm stuck in the house anyway I'll put in a full day at my bench and burnout is a real thing for me. After a while my eyes go fuzzy and my mind starts to wander, not an ideal thing when playing with sharp things :)! Once again, I appreciate all the positive feedback folks! Have a great Friday and weekend!
  8. Righty Buscadero

    Bodean, I use the liquid acrylic, which is a little gel like, so probably the same you have. My process is to give the leather a good coat of neatsfoot oil and let it "soak" in at least overnight. I apply the antique heavily with a scrap piece of shearling working from one end to the other on the front side then flip it over and work the other way applying it o the backside. Once I'm back at my starting point I wipe off the excess with a damp paper towel that has been doubled over multiple times. As the towel gets filthy with the excess dye I'll turn it over, then inside out, etc. If it doesn't want to "wash" off very well I'll add more water and/or pressure until it does. It seems to me the longer it sits the darker the the "highs" will be. Which can be good or bad, depending on how dark you wanted it. This isn't universally true, some hides go darker and some go lighter, more brown or more gray regardless of how long you let it sit on before wiping it off. Once it's been wiped off as much as I like, or as much as I can get I'll let it dry. At least overnight and if possible 24 hours. Then I give it a good wipe down with liquid glycerin saddle soap applied with a piece of scrap shearling. This often bleeds off some of the dye and in my opinion adds depth and warmth. From there it gets a seal coat made with a 50/50 mixture of Mop & Glo and water. Once that's dry I'll give it another wipe down or two of the glycerin soap. I often spray the shearling then rub it on a bar of soap, then apply it to the leather. I don't want it wet, I want it "waxy". That's about it. Somewhere int he middle of saddle soaping and seal coating I'll put everything together. When I start with the neatsfoot oil it's all separate pieces and when I do the last soap wipe down it's an assembled rig. I have a jar of the paste as well. When I was a kid that's what my dad used. I think somewhere along the line they changed the formula because the paste stuff in the jar doesn't seem to stick as well. At least not for me. All the best, Josh
  9. Righty Buscadero

    Thanks OldNSlow! Thank you sir! Thanks Bodean! I encourage you to do both! Thanks JD! With the cartridge belt full it's a little heavy but with the width of the belt (2-3/4") it isn't bad to carry. That said, I don't know how many of these fancy rigs get used that much. I have one myself and it mostly hangs on the wall. When I carry a sixgun it's usually in a simple pants belt mounted crossdraw or in a chest rig. Everybody is different, but for me those are less in the way when I'm out and about. That said, there is no question for me that a full western rig is cool as can be! Thanks again for the kind words folks, have a great day!
  10. Righty Buscadero

    Thanks Chris, I appreciate that!
  11. Very similar to a lefty Buscadero I recently made and posted pics of. Leather is HO 10/11 and dye is Fiebings antique black. Thanks for looking and have a great day! Josh
  12. I use a Fiebings Aussie wax a lot on field holsters and tack. It's similar to Sno Seal, which I have also used. My preference is the Aussie wax which is textured about like Vaseline but I have nothing against Sno Seal and it's easier to find. With either I like to "work" them into the leather. I rub a generous amount on then set the item in the sun for a few hours until it's no longer visible. If there's no sun I'll put them somewhere it gets uncomfortably hot (attic, dash of a parked truck, etc.). I have heard of people using a heat gun or hair dryer to work it in, but I've always been able to find a place I can set it and let time work it in. Once it's "melted" into the leather it's fairly dull. If I want a little "glow" I'll rub on some glycerin saddle soap. All the best, Josh
  13. Today's offerings

    Looking good Dwight! You've been busy!
  14. G43 Holster

    Very nice Larry! Great job!!