Josh Ashman

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About Josh Ashman

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  • Location
    Southwest Missouri
  • Interests
    Leatherwork & Horses

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  1. I've stopped taking any orders for a while so I can get caught up. When I start up again I don't plan on making holsters for anything that I don't already own or have a mold for. I actually like the idea of limiting it to only 1911's and SAA's, but since I have a bunch of molds it makes sense to build for them too.I might think differently if I did this for a living, then again I might not. Different business models make sense to different people. If you want to make a holster for anyone who wants one, great! If you want to build a select few holsters for people who want them, great!
  2. Jim, I was just being a smart ass. The picture you took was hard to see exactly what was going on, but I had gathered the general intent. Not sure why you'd be concerned with weight on leather when you're packing a double stack 45, but as you mentioned earlier, we all value different things. Good for you for making a unique design that you like and that has worked well for you. It'd be easy for me to give a critique on your actual leather working skills based on what I could make out in the pictures, but I don't see a reason to. You like what you built, so that's awesome. With a little practice you can hand sew a holster in about 30 minutes. It takes 2 needles, an awl and some thread. If you suck at hand sewing you can still do it in under an hour. I don't have a vacuum pump. Have a good evening folks, Josh
  3. This whole thread is so damn dumb I can't believe I'm still sucked in. But here I am... JLS, I bolded and underlined "might". Nobody is "justifying" a thing by noting that 50/50 type holsters work well for a lot of people. That's pretty obvious to anyone with a brain. Your free patterns and advice are appreciated by a bunch of starting out leather workers and I applaud you for your efforts to be helpful. I also recognize that you a fine leather worker and make quality gear. That said, much like Sam, you haven't invented any of this and in my opinion you're wrong every now and then. I don't use falling down laughing emoticons to point out where I think you're wrong as that seems like a real jerk thing to do. ChiefJason, I'm happy that you're doing so well with the flat backed holsters. Some of us are just as happy and proud of our holsters that aren't flat backed. Jim Timber, what the hell does a hem do on a holster?
  4. Del Fatti, Alessi, Sparks? Clearly all makers of crappy holsters looking to cut corners.
  5. Here it is new on Oct 24th 2013, and here it is as of last night, and upside down, I'm plenty happy with my results. All the best, Josh
  6. Jim, I don't have any pictures of 6 year old pancake holsters being held upside down. As I noted earlier, after several years of use I have about retired a 50/50 pancake I made myself. I think it had about 3 years of use when it went out of daily rotation. Last I checked it would still hold a loaded 1911 upside down, but just barely. I may check again when I get home out of curiosity. Having a holster hold a pistol upside down isn't the "end all be all" of whether or not it's functional, at least it isn't for me. I would say that function is king, however, form also comes into play in my opinion. All of the problems that have been stated about 50/50 pancake holsters haven't been an issue for me in holsters I've made for personal use or ones I've built to sell. I'm a hobby maker although I've been at it for many years, so I've built more than a few of these types of holsters. Most of them are owned by people I know personally, family and friends. So far no complaints. Speaking personally, if it were about making a quick buck I'd skimp on my edges. That would save me a bunch more time than building them flat backed, or flatter backed. As you noted, not everybody will agree or like what someone else does and they certainly don't need too. All the best, Josh
  7. Hey Jim, good to know that my holsters are "crappy", easy to make, and that they don't work well. Let's see some of your work pard. I'm curious to see what a nice, functional holster looks like. JLS, as I noted earlier, technically I agree with most if not all of what you've said. However, I don't have any of the problems you have noted that will be caused by 50/50 pancakes in the holsters I've made and sold. Of course, since Jim was helpful enough to point out that they are all crappy and don't work well maybe I just don't know the difference.
  8. Carguy, in my opinion, yes. I respect that others may have different answers. Based on my experience in building that exact type of holster and not having any trouble with binding, especially binding that got worse as the holster became more broken in. However, the best way for you to know for sure what you think about it is to build yourself a holster and see how it works for you. Josh
  9. Technically I agree with most all of this. At the same time, based on my personal experience and in my opinion the "real world effect" is a whole lot of nothing. Yes, a pancake holster made completely even will pinch the sight when the "wings" are folded in. If you flex some curve into the wings when you mold the holster I think you mitigate it to some extent. Leather also stretches and compresses to an amazing degree. It will do so while you build with it and it will do so long after you're done making whatever it is you're making. I build my pancake holsters even and put some curve into them when I form them. When they are new they are tight, if they are on the belt on a narrow person they will be even tighter. Depending where they were cut from, the characteristics of the leather and how much coffee I had before I sewed the holster up I can generally shake the holster upside down with a loaded gun (not one in the chamber, no safety lectures please). After a few years of every day use they are much looser and need to come out of daily rotation The pictures below show a curved pancake evenly molded and formed in a slight curve. The 2nd pic is the same holster being moved upside down holding the real gun. And the 3rd pic is me with what used to be my EDC pistol and holster I built for it. It was tight when new and it loosened up over several years to the point that I no longer use it that much because it's a little loose. My 2 cents, which is worth exactly what it cost, is if you have any doubts about a holster pattern you want to try, build yourself one and wear it for a while then you'll know how that design will work. All these discussions about how molded leather will behave down to the 1/16 and 1/32 don't take into account the very nature of what leather is. As an example take a 6" length of 1" wide strap cut from 8 oz. leather and a bowl of warm water. Dunk the leather in the water for a minute and you can turn that 6" length into a 6-1/2" length without any trouble. You can also turn it into a 5-1/2" length. You can also turn a straight cut strap into a curved strap. Work it a little and dunk some more and you can turn a slight curve into a semi circle, or even a full circle. Have a great day folks!
  10. Good points JLS! I can usually find a use for my bellies but I dang sure wouldn't want any extras! They make OK liners if you don't expect much out of them. I'm close enough to SLC that I usually just go pick my leather out in person so the shipping doesn't affect me and I'm small time enough that I only get a side or two at a time. Circumstances and type of operation would dang sure have an impact on what makes the most sense for a person. All the best!
  11. Belly leather is stretchy and won't firm up. It also doesn't tool well, it's too mushy to have crisp defined marks. I don't have too much trouble with neck leather although it does often have wrinkles on it and if you're using skirting that hasn't been split it can get really thick in the neck. I buy leather by the side and always find a use for about everything. It seems to me that if you just buy the bend the price per square goes up enough that you could have had the whole side for the same final dollar amount. I have pushed it and thought I'd make some "questionable" leather work and had to remake the project because I wasn't happy with it. Just my 2 cents. Looking good Carguy. I'd stop your weave short of the edges and run a cam border around it. Have a good day folks!
  12. Once the liner is glued and stitched to the front you treat it the same as a single layer of leather. It shouldn't be any more difficult to get tucked into the loops than a single layer of comparable overall thickness. Again, depending on how loose you make the slots and how "deep" the drop for the belt loop is you may have to dunk it in water to get it to bend enough to form it back through the loops. I used to make a fairly long belt loop but then decided I liked them to be tighter fitting to the cartridge belt so thy wouldn't "ride up". Once I started making them fit tight I had to start dunking them. I have to basically fold the holster part in half to get it through the loop. I cringe a little when I do it, but I do it all the same. The only "bad" thing I've had happen is the dunking causes the antique finish I use to bleed a little on the stitching and muddy it up. If it were me then, yes, I'd sew around the loop slots. If you just glue them they could come loose. Like everything else though there is no hard and fast rule. I've also stopped the liner before the loop and just had that be a single layer. I don't think I'd do that with 6 oz but I wouldn't think twice about doing with 8 oz. Mostly just depends on what you want it to look like. Good luck!
  13. Thank you ma'am! I just use a set of wing dividers and cut each line with a swivel knife then use one of the nylon bevelers that goes in a swivel knife body. I want to get one of the JWP beaders from Weaver but haven't let myself pony up the money yet. I scribe the far outside line from the edge of the leather then scribe each line on in from the previous one.
  14. Thanks JLS, you, Dwight and some of the others give so much good advice on here I figured that since I had a little experience with what CaptQuirk had asked about that I should chime in and try to be helpful as well. Good luck to you too Red Bear, I'm sure yours will be great! I was just scrolling through some old pics to see if I had something and the ones Red Bear linked are about the best I have on hand. Apparently I don't take a lot of pictures of the back side of my holsters . Anyway, these are the slots that the lace will go through; and although I don't have a finished picture of the back, you can see the laces in this one. I leave them long enough to hang down 5 or 6 inches. The bleed knot looks just like the one on the front, except I don't put a concho under it on the back. This one isn't lined CaptQuirk, but you get the general idea. All the best folks! Josh