Josh Ashman

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About Josh Ashman

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  • Location
    Southwest Missouri
  • Interests
    Leatherwork & Horses

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  1. Hey dikman, That first picture shows my swivel knife, which has a hollow ground blade and the other tool with the white nylon deal where the blade would otherwise be is the beveler I use. Basically, you cut the like then go back over it (with a fair amount of down pressure) to bevel it. It's doesn't do as good of a job as an actual beveler stamp, but it's quicker and you don't get the "choppy" look that you sometimes do if you're not great at beveling (I'm better now than I once was, but still have tons of room for improvement). I'm not sure that the swivel knife blade being hollow ground makes it any better, but it's the blade I always use. I've had it for a long time, probably about 30 years, although I didn't use it much until the last 7 or 8 years. It was purchased from Tandy in the late 80's when I was in grade school shop class and we did a little leatherwork for one of the school projects. I'm not sure that a Tandy blade purchased today would be the same thing but that one works well for me. Thanks Lobo! I appreciate that! Hope retirement is treating you well sir! All the best, Josh
  2. Thanks LederRudi! As for the color, these 2 will just get highlighter so they'll be mostly left "natural". It a big order and I cut and stamped the 3rd this morning. It'll get black antique. They would look nice with just a few light coats of oil and left in the sun for a day, but I'll have to save that for one of my own sometime! All the best, Josh
  3. You're certainly welcome Chris! Broke down into each step it's pretty easy to pull this border off. I'll also add that the more you get stacked in there the less each little flaw jumps out. All the best!
  4. Thanks Dikman, it's nice of you to say so! Thanks Gary! As for how I stamp, it's been s bit of a progression. I started out going all the way around the "inside" and then filling in the "outside". I also pre-measured the spacing by laying it out with little tick marks. Then I went to alternating each side a stamp at a time, making the complete design as I went so I didn't need to pre-measure their locations so much. And now, since alternating sides requires me to twist and turn more than I care to, I've gone back to stamping all the way around one side complete and then doing the other and I just "eyeball" the spacing. Thanks noobleather! Will do! All the best, Josh
  5. Thanks Alpha2! I could never decide where to stop the border, so I just started running them all the way around All the best, Josh
  6. Couple of progress pics of two Threepersons style holsters I'm working on this week. One is strong side for a 45/8" Blackhawk, the other is crossdraw for a 6-1/2" Single Six. Both have what I call a San Carlos border. Both are 10/11 HO craftsman.
  7. Very good, sorry for the slow reply! I was goofing at at the lake All the best!
  8. I've had lots or practice at making poorly stamped/tooled gear. It seems that the more you do it the better you get. My stuff isn't great by any means, but it's better now than when I started. Not sure if it's helpful, but the way I do serpentine borders is to scribe my lines lightly, then cut them with a swivel knife, then run over them with whatever the beveler blades for a swivel knife handle are called. Then I do the "hourglass" shaped stamp that I use. I put one of the flat sides into the cut and beveled line and go to work stamping. I use the same side of the stamp all around the one side then do the other side. I used to layout spacing marks but anymore I just "eyeball" them in. When coming into a corner that has to "close out" I'll stop short several inches then work my way out of the corner and try to make any spacing adjustments over several stamps so I don't have one big gap or 1 space that is way too tight. Good luck!
  9. Hello Alex, For what it's worth, my thoughts are that if your process for building a flat back takes an extra 30 minutes or so I think adding an additional $15 to $25 is what I would do. I also agree with what Dwight had to say, where his flat back process doesn't add any time for him I can see why he wouldn't bother with charging any more. I charge more for tooled stuff. The reason being that it takes more time. It's the same leather, dye and thread but the time investment increases. The dollar amount I mention above is in line with what I add for a similar amount of tooling time. All the best, Josh
  10. Recent Builds

    Outstanding! I really like your sight channel bump out! Classy looking holsters for sure and great attention to detail in the assembly and finish. Thanks for sharing!
  11. You could do all that, and it'll probably work nicely. Or, you could use the awl by hand and spend the time and effort you would have used to build your hole stabbing machine to practice stabbing holes by hand. Good luck whichever way you go!
  12. Stamping Saddle Questions

    I've glued cased leather without issue. Specific times I can think of are the cantle back and seat and I also use Barge, sometimes Masters if it's cheaper. All the best! Josh
  13. When I hand stitched my process was somewhat similar. Instead of a drill press (don't have one) I used a regular awl blade and haft handle but I did "pre-stab" all my holes. I'd place one of those rubber "poundo" boards from Tandy over a cutting board and stab the holes straight down. the poundo board is basically just rubber and is roughly 1/4" thick. It kept my awl blade from going too deep and the cutting board kept it from getting dull too quick. Once the holes were stabbed I'd stitch it up using a saddle stitch (2 needles). I did make a home made stitching horse that I used all the time, but before I built it I got by with holding whatever I was sewing. To me, using the horse was faster because I could use both hands to stitch. Light leather gloves with a doubled up palm to keep fingers from getting sliced by the thread when pulling tight and for pushing the needle through. Finger tips and thumb tips cut off on both gloves for increased dexterity. Hand stitching holsters isn't bad at all. Hand stitching saddle skirts is not that fun! Good luck with your project! Josh
  14. Stamping Saddle Questions

    Hello Presley, I've built 4 saddles so I'm not any great source of information and I don't want to come off like I am. That said, I've followed the Stohlman books fairly close as far as basic process and been happy. If it were me I'd likely try to do something like this; Swells - stamp once they're in place. Bonus points if you can get them done while they are still cased from fitting. Skirts - stamp after blocking and before plugging. bonus points if you can stamp them while still cased from blocking. Rigging plates (if flat plate that drops to visible and you want to stamp) - stamp the front piece prior to assembling the plates. Rear jockies - I follow the process Stohlman lines out in book #2. It involves fitting temporary laces to get them fit up and multiple fit ups. they get tooled somewhere in the middle of that process. Cantle back - stamp it right before you glue it on. It works OK for me to tool it while it's still cased from fitting it but you may need to re-wet it a few times along the way. At least I've had to. Good luck! Someone who knows more than me will hopefully chime in and get you some good advice. All the best, Josh
  15. Very nice! Good job!!