Josh Ashman

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About Josh Ashman

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  • Location
    Southwest Missouri
  • Interests
    Leatherwork & Horses

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  1. "Mr. Ashman" would be my dad, I'm just Josh I'm glad you've got a little inspiration from looking at any of my work, I'm sure there's someone out there doing the same looking at this work of yours! Again, nice job! I applaud you for working out your own pattern and making it all work. All the best, Josh
  2. Western Holsters

    Hello Chrisash, There are many different styles of holsters and cartridge belts and a lot of what is shown on TV and in movies is inaccurate. That said, I am not aware of any true 1 piece holster/belt combinations. The "buscadero" and other similar styles feature a drop in the belt with a slot that the holster attaches through. This "fixes" the location of the holster on the belt and is likely what you are seeing. This is also generally thought to be more of a Hollywood design than a using design. A low slung gun belt with a leg tie down may look cool and seem like a fine idea when you're walking down main street but it's really not at all comfortable on a horse or for doing much of anything at all. Carbine or rifle in a saddle scabbard and pistol in saddle bags or pommel bags is how I go armed when on horseback 90% of the time. If I have a pistol on a belt it's strapped high and tight to my side and only when I'm on something I trust not to blow up. The reasons that make this true for me today would have been the same to someone 100 years ago. That's my $0.02 anyway. All the best, Josh
  3. Western Gun Belt

    Hello GuyNC5, I'd suggest you aim for a total thickness of between 10 and 12 oz. including the liner. Depending on what leather you have on hand or what you want to stock up on will likely determine the best way for you to get to that. I like to keep a supply of 8 oz for carry gear and to use for double layer belts, 4 oz. for bullet loops and liners and 10/11 for single layer belts and western rigs. So, if it were me I'd use 8 oz. with a 4 oz. liner. If you don't have any leather on hand you might want to get a 6 oz double shoulder or back and double it up. Good luck with your project! Josh
  4. Murphy's is good stuff . Here is a link to an old thread where you can see the before and after pics of an old Hamley I cleaned up with a process as described above. All the best! Josh
  5. Hey Dwight, I've cleaned up a bunch of old saddles and I have a system that works pretty well. It may shock some of the "light coat of conditioner over the course of several months" types, but it has worked very well for me on saddles that were over 80 years old as well as newer ones that were neglected. Here's what I do; 1) Remove the fenders and stirrup leathers. Also the cinches, latigos , breast collars, etc. 2) Remove the back jockeys and the skirts. I just cut the old strings as they'll be replaced anyway. I also toss any old nails/screws as they will also be replaced. I'll also separate the skirts if they are laced. 3) Fill a large bucket with water. I use empty sweet lick tubs, anything around 2' in diameter or bigger would be good. 4) Dump half a bottle of Murphy's Oil Soap in the bucket. You can get it in the laundry isle at most any store. 5) Dunk the jockeys, fenders, back cinch, basically everything except the seat/tree and the skirts. If you have to replace the sheepskin remove it from the skirts and dunk them too. Let the pieces get good and wet and start washing them. You can use a rag or on roughout you can use a bristle brush. 6) Once a piece is clean give it a thorough rub down with straight Murphy's soap. I pour it into my hand and just rub it in, front and back and put on heavy then hang the piece to dry in the shape it should roughly be in when it goes back together. I usually hang stirrup leather/fenders over a fence panel and lay out the skirts on a table. 7) I don't dunk the tree but I do sit by the bucket and thoroughly wet the seat leather where you can to it (front jockey area, etc). Once clean lather on the Murphy's. Then put it aside to dry out. 8) Once it's getting towards dry but not all the way dry I'll hit it pretty heavily with NF oil. 9) Let it sit 24 hours and you can begin to repair what you have seen that needs done. 10) Before it goes back together I'll rub everything down very well with Aussie Wax then sit it in the sun to let the Aussie wax work into the leather. Then I'll give it a good rub down with liquid glycerin saddle soap. 11) From there it's just a matter of putting it all back together. Good luck however you decide to proceed! Josh
  6. Good suggestions above, but if you already have the M&P it's as easy as gluing the pieces together, forming it, letting it dry and then stitching it. Easier to do if you're hand stitching as you won't have the foot of your sewing machine walking around the molded portion of your holster. You'll want to edge the top and bottom where you can't get to them after assembly and do any tooling, dyeing, etc first. If a close stitch line is your top priority, you can't beat forming it first and putting the stitch line exactly where it needs to be. Good luck, Josh
  7. Couple Old School

    Nice work, as always Bobby! Thanks for sharing!!
  8. Thanks Eddie & Bruce! Have a great Friday and weekend folks!
  9. A few knives sheaths

    Very nice Eddie! Good job on the sheaths and on the knife. All the best, Josh
  10. Hey Mike, great looking work! Thanks for sharing it! All the best! Josh
  11. Thanks Ray & Battlemunkey! Pretty interesting Dikman! I bought a pair of elk stag grips for a 1911 from Ray a few years ago and used wood stain to darken them up. My process was just as you noted above. If I had another pair of light colored stag grips and wanted them to be darker I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. Bullmoose, I should have had a comma in there. Fiebings antique black (comma) top coat of M&G cut 50%. Meaning, I dyed it with Fiebings antique black (I use the liquid acrylic type that comes in a bottle, not the paste that comes in a jar. Although I have used both over the years, I just like the liquid type better) then I top coated it with Mop and Glo cut 50/50 with water. This is something I picked up from a member named Katsass and I have been happy with the results. I do give it a final wipe down with liquid glycerin saddle soap so it smells like a leather product not a kitchen floor. Have a great day folks!
  12. Thanks everybody! I was just playing around with the oxblood dye, I hadn't done that before but I thought it turned out nice. The grips came from Buffalo Brothers, their website is and they were easy to order from. These are their "old ivory" color with an "antique" finish. The pistol came with a nice enough set of wood grips but they had "NRA" laser carved on the side. I'm an NRA life member and fine to support them, but not the right thing at all for the grips on a SAA Have a great day everybody!