Josh Ashman

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About Josh Ashman

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    Leatherworker
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southwest Missouri
  • Interests
    Leatherwork & Horses

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  1. Once the liner is glued and stitched to the front you treat it the same as a single layer of leather. It shouldn't be any more difficult to get tucked into the loops than a single layer of comparable overall thickness. Again, depending on how loose you make the slots and how "deep" the drop for the belt loop is you may have to dunk it in water to get it to bend enough to form it back through the loops. I used to make a fairly long belt loop but then decided I liked them to be tighter fitting to the cartridge belt so thy wouldn't "ride up". Once I started making them fit tight I had to start dunking them. I have to basically fold the holster part in half to get it through the loop. I cringe a little when I do it, but I do it all the same. The only "bad" thing I've had happen is the dunking causes the antique finish I use to bleed a little on the stitching and muddy it up. If it were me then, yes, I'd sew around the loop slots. If you just glue them they could come loose. Like everything else though there is no hard and fast rule. I've also stopped the liner before the loop and just had that be a single layer. I don't think I'd do that with 6 oz but I wouldn't think twice about doing with 8 oz. Mostly just depends on what you want it to look like. Good luck!
  2. Thank you ma'am! I just use a set of wing dividers and cut each line with a swivel knife then use one of the nylon bevelers that goes in a swivel knife body. I want to get one of the JWP beaders from Weaver but haven't let myself pony up the money yet. I scribe the far outside line from the edge of the leather then scribe each line on in from the previous one.
  3. Thanks JLS, you, Dwight and some of the others give so much good advice on here I figured that since I had a little experience with what CaptQuirk had asked about that I should chime in and try to be helpful as well. Good luck to you too Red Bear, I'm sure yours will be great! I was just scrolling through some old pics to see if I had something and the ones Red Bear linked are about the best I have on hand. Apparently I don't take a lot of pictures of the back side of my holsters . Anyway, these are the slots that the lace will go through; and although I don't have a finished picture of the back, you can see the laces in this one. I leave them long enough to hang down 5 or 6 inches. The bleed knot looks just like the one on the front, except I don't put a concho under it on the back. This one isn't lined CaptQuirk, but you get the general idea. All the best folks! Josh
  4. Dwight's advice to double up your 6 oz is spot on in my opinion. I'd make up your pattern, use it to cut the front. Tool it if you're going to as it will "grow" a little with the tooling. Use the front to make a pattern for the liner and cut it. Glue them back to back and stitch everything but the main seam. I like to use a welt on the main seam, if you want one use the holster body for your welt edge pattern, cut it then use a compass to make it as wide as you want, glue it in and stitch up the main seam, or skip the welt and just glue and stitch. Depending on how tight your loop slots are and how much drop you have for the belt you may want, or need, to dunk it in water to fold it over for the belt loop and get it pushed through the slots. A few other thoughts; 1) I'd put the slots in after the pieces were glued. 2) I'd use a 3/16 "or so" hole punch at the ends of the slots and a head knife to cut between them. 3) I like to put a 1/2" latigo or chap leather "keeper" through the bottom of the skirt and main holster body to keep the holster from wanting to pull up through the loops. You can put a "bump" out of the main seam to hold the holster from pulling up, but the keeper lace provides some more insurance. I tie the ends with a bleed knot. A Chicago screw would also work. Good luck with it! Josh
  5. Yup, that's a fine plan. Some do line with suede, but others will tell you lining with suede is the devil. I'm not a fan of it, but it's probably not the devil.
  6. Hello Alpha2, Mop & Glo. I dilute it with water in roughly equal parts and use it for my final finish. I got the idea from fellow member Katsass on here and have been very happy with the results. I also know of other members who've tried it and don't like it at all. All the best, Josh
  7. Thanks again folks! I appreciate the kind words! All the best, Josh
  8. Thanks Red Bear! I cut the length of the hose just a hair under the width of the pistol. Once the screw is threaded into the T nut it'll squish down a lot. Part of my thought process is that having the tension of the compressed hose on the screw will keep it from backing out. I'm pretty new to tension screws, someone with more experience than I have with them might chime in and give you some more info. Thanks Eric! To get the pink I used some hot pink Angelus paint I had picked up some time ago and mixed it way down with iso alcohol. To mix it I put about 1/2 teaspoon into maybe 6 oz. of alcohol in a bottle and shock it vigorously. Another way of saying this is that I poured a little of the paint into the least full bottle of alcohol I had laying around. I applied it with a piece of scrap shearling. I thought it was "OK", it was a little to much like paint for me but my wife thought it was cool and the customer loved it. ext time I'm going try a few drops of Oxblood Fiebings in alcohol until it seems like the right color. I'm hoping to get more of a dye and less of a paint. Thanks again!
  9. That's really nice Eric! Good on you for sharing. Aside from a few tool differences it matches what I do very closely. All the best, Josh
  10. Like everybody else my suggestion is to glue and stitch. I would also recommend using contact cement instead of rubber cement. Barge or Masters are the 2 brands I use most often although I know a lot of people use Weldwood and have good results. One option, if you really don't want to bother with stitching it is to find a local shoe repair shop, saddle shop or holster maker and see if you can hire them to sew it for you. Another option would be to use heavy skirting (14/16 oz) and just make a single layer belt. It wouldn't be as resistant to stretching as a doubled and stitched belt but I believe it would be better than a doubled belt that was just glued. Good luck with your belt. Josh
  11. Thanks Biker & Krusher! Finish is 50/50 water/Mop&Glo. The brown tones are Fiebings dye cut with alcohol and the pink is Angelous hot pink leather paint cut with alcohol. Next time I aim for pink I'm going to use oxblood dye cut heavily. I put a coat of black antique over the pink to highlight the carving. Thank you very much BHP! I'm just playing around with the tension screws as well. I've had personal holster loosen up enough after a few years of use that I'd tighten them up if I could, which was my intent with these. It's a new thing for me so I can't give a lot of feedback, but they are fairly easy to add it seems like they'd become useful as the holster gets more use. I can say that both of these holsters were plenty snug without any real tension on the screw, give the screw a few turns and you couldn't draw at all. Just in case anyone wondered, I picked up the stainless T-nuts and flat head screws from McMaster Carr. These are 8-32 and 3/4" long screws. 1" would have worked too, but they would have protruded slightly through the T nut. I have finishing washers on hand from my saddlery work but you can get them from McMaster as well. I am using hose from the auto parts store for the spacer, it's ID is probably between 3/16 and 1/4". I just went in and asked to look at their bulk hose in the back and got several feet of the sizes that looked like they'd work. All the best, Josh
  12. Be prepared for an onslaught of "SOB holsters are the devil" comments. My 2 cents is that like any other carry position it works for some and doesn't work for others. There are several things to consider about SOB carry, i.e. possibility of serious back injury if you fall on it, serious printing if you bend over, etc. Then palm out or palm in bring up another round of discussions. When I get asked for an SOB holster I have these conversations with the customer so that they know what they are looking at, assuming they didn't already. If they are committed to getting one I'm generally fine to build them one. And, although I don't use it often, I do have a clip on IWB similar to the one pictured above, except it's "palm in" for an officers model 1911. In my opinion it serves some purposes just fine. All the best, Josh
  13. I call them "half breeds". I don't think I invented the term but I don't recall where I heard it, or when I started using it.
  14. Hello Barrel Pony, I am one of those novice saddle makers and I'll share a few thoughts. The last saddle I built was a working saddle for my wife and although I didn't skimp or shortcut on any material I also didn't go extravagant. It's a simple roughout Wade with Jeremiah Watt stainless hardware built on a Bowden tree with Hermann Oak leather. I spent just over $1,300 on the materials. A larger scale maker would be buying in bulk and would be able to get the material quite a bit cheaper. Larger makers will be run on a production basis by many different workers, which most people view as a downside. They will also be building based off of proven patterns and will likely be familiar with their job. A novice saddle maker, such as myself will be doing everything one step at a time by hand, but that doesn't mean they'll do it well or "right". I think the best value I have seen for what I would call a semi custom saddle is Jeremy Stead, you can check out his work on www.ranhcsaddle.com but it will be about double your budget. Another great option would be McCall Saddles, again they would be at least double the budget you have noted but they are a great semi custom saddle, in my opinion. Good, production saddles that would hit around your budget, again in my opinion, would be; Saddle Barn, My wife and I have owned 2, a swell fork and a Wade, both were hard working ranch saddles and they were both quite nice. Billy Cook, my wife has a Wade Tree Ranch saddle from them and it is very nice. Colorado Saddlery, we've owned 2 a swell fork and a Wade, both were good saddles. Another great option would be to look for a used saddle that fits your needs. I once picked up a used Scotty Derringer slick fork. He is a custom maker in northern AZ that was located in the area I lived at the time. It was my first custom saddle, although not built for me and it was great in every way. For background my wife and I have owned and rode horses all of our lives. We own and run a small cow calf operation in addition to our other endeavors. We do not compete in shows or rodeos nor do we ride every day. We do ride 3 to 4 times a week at times, we do start all of our own horses and have for over 20 years and we have occasion to rope a calf every now and then. When I say a saddle is "good" I mean it holds up to this level of use, works and fits on the horses I put it on (with reasonable padding) and is comfortable for the rider. Good luck, Josh
  15. Thanks Jeff!