Josh Ashman

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About Josh Ashman

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  • Location
    Southwest Missouri
  • Interests
    Leatherwork & Horses

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  1. Quigley saddle bags

    I built those for my Dad a few years ago. As I recall the pouches finished to be about 3" deep. I usually don't do vegtan gussets like that, I like them to be chap leather with the front seam sewed under, but Dad likes them flat. Aside from a few little details and splitting the yoke piece I followed will's pattern to a "T". All the best! Josh
  2. Quigley saddle bags

    Hey Ron! it has holsters on the front of both pouches. It's actually a Will Ghormley pattern. Here are a few more pics.
  3. Quigley saddle bags

    I don't know why a person would put the top "billet" strap through a slot on the flap like that. I usually secure the bottom strap that has the buckle on it to the front of the bags so it doesn't flop down when you unbuckle it. Not that it's that big of a deal if it does flop down. Just personal preference I suppose. In my opinion the straps should rivet down wherever they are attached to. Could be the back side, the top flap, or wherever you wanted them to be. Here's some examples of how I do them. Good luck on your project, Josh
  4. rifle sling

    Hello Cuda, For me pricing can be pretty tricky, given the lack of input on your post I'm guessing a lot of others feel the same. For a "plain jane" rifle sling I usually charge around $30 or $40 if I'm providing the sling swivels. For one that is heavily tooled like the one in your picture I'd tack on another $50 to $75 depending on how detailed and full they wanted the tooling to be. Someone else may have a completely different price point depending on what material they had on hand, how busy they were and how much they like "giving away" their tooling time. Pricing is a balancing point for me where I get some return on my time, cover my materials and feel happy about providing a quality item for a reasonable cost to my customer. That said I don't do leatherwork for a living, it's just a hobby that I enjoy. I imagine others pricing varies greatly depending on their circumstances. Good luck on your project! Josh
  5. Western Tapered Gun Belt

    Your plan is solid, building the belt from a pre-cut stirrup leather will have it plenty stout for carrying the load you've described. If you think about it, the stirrup leather will carry half a riders weight when standing in the stirrups and a portion of their weight when sitting. The "onside" leather will take a riders full weight each time they mount or dismount. The few pounds of pistol, knife and ammo are no biggie by comparison. In my opinion, the suede liner won't add anything structurally so it doesn't much matter what thickness you use. 13/15 oz will be 3/16" to 1/4" thick so skiving it down where it'll fold around the buckle is a good idea. I'd also suggest making the fold when the leather is well cased. Good luck with your project! Josh
  6. Oil or not?

    I believe Ray gave the perfect answer. I oil carry holsters similar to what he described above. I oil carry belts just a little more. "Western" gun belts get a little more still and saddles and tack items get quite a bit more. With all leather items there is a level that is too much. You don't want to saturate the leather and you don't want to soften it beyond what is acceptable for its intended use. A stiff holster with little flex is good, a soft and supple set of bridle reins is good, either one oiled to the level of the other isn't that good. As for application, I keep scraps of sheepskin for applying dye and oil. I keep my oil in a re-purposed 20 oz soda bottle with a hole poked through the lid. Squirt a little oil over a piece of sheepskin and rub it over the grain side of the leather and yo're all set. All the best, Josh
  7. latest roughout

    That's a very clean looking saddle. Great job!
  8. Good job on the sheath! Apparently everyone has opinions on the keepers. I'll go ahead and share mine just for fun. I'm aware that they are worth exactly what they cost ! For a "wicked" sharp knife (really any knife) the down side I see to having the keeper up where you have it is that they seem easier to accidentally cut. I don't have any trouble un-snaping the keeper and drawing the knife with the flap going to the rear but I do always worry about cutting into the straps. As others have pointed out, the knife can also move out a little. Of course, for this to happen you'd have to be upside down, which would probably be much more concern than your knife coming out a little. I like straps that come from the back and wrap around the guard, like you have on the Bowie knife much better. However, on that Bowie I'd have put it around the front of the guard to keep from having to worry about cutting it. As for having 2 motions to get the knife un-snapped versus 1 swift motion, I've never had a reason to quick draw a sheath knife. I do however regularly walk through brush which could accidentally unsnap a keeper that was "pointing forward". I do pay attention to stuff like that, and I try not to let myself get turned upside down, so having it come unsnapped wouldn't be "catastrophic". It would just need to be snapped back up and the chances of the knife falling out would be fairly minimal, but if you point the keeper "back" it wouldn't catch and come unsnapped in the first place. Again, nice job on the sheath. The red and black with the buck stitching looks great and the shape of the sheath seems perfect to me. Solid work! Josh
  9. Ingle, I've made several SS knock offs and haven't received any flak over them, although I don't post on many gun forums so I don't know that they have been seen very much. The summer Special is a highly copied holster style, it's not just you and I. If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery you'd think the M-S crowd would be happy about that! BTW, I commented in the post you'd made, but I'm compelled to say again, great job on your version of the SS! It looked fantastic! Josh
  10. 2 gun rig for 5-1/2" SAA's

    Hey folks, thanks for your comments! This is by no means a CAS rig, just something my customer wanted to have. I'm not a CAS shooter myself so I'm not up on their rules, but I would think that thumb breaks aren't allowed. Maybe Red Cent will chime and and give a definitive answer on that. There's no disagreement from me that hammer thongs would have fit better, however I suppose that's the point of having something custom ordered. You can order what you want, assuming the maker is willing to build it, and I was Hope you all have a great day!
  11. Nice job Plinker! I really like formed cases like that and your did a great job.
  12. Some new holsters

    Really nice, clean work. Great job! Semper Fi!
  13. 2 gun rig for 5-1/2" SAA's

    Thanks guys! Chief, I make no claim to ever getting them right myself. I'd have probably put them lower but the holster was too tight to fit the strap down in there. I do like them a little higher tho. My nemesis with thumb breaks is extended thumb safeties on 1911's. I ALWAYS manage to get the snap dead center on top of it. I couldn't be any more 100% on this than if I was trying. Oh well... Double, I first tried M&G for 2 reasons, 1) it's cheaper than Resolene and 2) it's available at any store. I've been using it now for a number of years and in my experience, it works well so I've stayed with it. All the best, Josh