Halitech

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About Halitech

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    Leatherworker
  • Birthday 01/29/1971

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  • Website URL
    http://www.halifaxleather.com

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    Male
  • Location
    Nova Scotia Canada

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  1. Welcome to the insanity called leather working The classic double shoulder you are looking at is, as suggested by the category it is listed in, is finished so it will not accept tooling, dye or any other finishes. The other one will. And like cj, I've had good luck with my leather purchases from tandy but I always go in and pick over the leather to get what I'm looking for instead of having them ship me whatever.
  2. the tri weave is the hardest to master but once you get it, all others are easy. I like your color combination and your letters. Only thing I would point out is the ends where you laced it together. On the next one, put your edges together and make sure they are the same size before you start doing any carving or tooling so you don't have 1 corner sticking out and not being inline with the other edges.
  3. use double sided tape or glue the pieces together first. Then punch/stitch
  4. I've used Varathane brand Red Chestnut wood stain before. It does take longer to dry and takes more work to buff but it came out pretty close to the same color as when used on pine. Recommended? not really. Doable? yes.
  5. Depends on just how crooked they are. If it's just a little bit, you could. If it's a lot, probably not
  6. dye the purse black jk but so far, I've not found anything to remove it
  7. cutting it out, that's the easy part. Getting all the fold lines in the right place, that's the hard part :/
  8. The only 2 things that come to mind for me are these: https://www.tandyleather.ca/en/product/squeeze-frame and these: https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/498438190/vintage-tooled-leather-coin-purse-with?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=leather coin purse&ref=sr_gallery_26
  9. for belts and holsters, the 8/9 is all you need. For wallets, you will want 4/5 for the backs and 2oz for the inside or you'll be sitting on a really thick item. I bought the cheap one from tandy and it works great for items under 3" wide
  10. I'm sure Chief and Rohn and a few other oldtimers will be glad to hear that about the lace so they can stop using it after 40 years. If your lace is brittle, maybe it's a problem with your lace as some people use it on holsters for every day carry and they don't have an issue with it breaking. I thought maybe you had an issue with transitioning from a single layer to 2 layers on a corner or just don't like doing corners at all.
  11. looks good but just curious, why go from lacing on the top opening to stitching on the sides?
  12. neatsfoot oil is not a finisher, it simply adds oils back into the leather that dying and tooling removes you want leather that is flat on the flesh side. If it's hairy or stringy, it's lower quality. See NVL's response about armour all I use Aussie conditioner and beeswax mainly and sometimes tan kote or resolene
  13. couple of questions 1. where did you get the leather 2. how thick (weight) is the leather 3. if you apply some neatsfoot oil to it before dying, does it get softer 4. does it get stiffer after you apply the armour all?
  14. if I'm getting your question, you're looking for info on the stiffener inside. Tandy, SLC and others all carry a bag stiffener. It's like a waterproof cardboard and not that expensive
  15. not sure it's the right way but I got an acrylic paint pen from Elmers that I use to paint the edges. I let it dry then use a thin,wet piece of fabric on a plastic paint scraper to rub off the excess. Then I paint the actual letter