mikesc

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About mikesc

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    Leatherworker

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    Brittany - France

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  1. Kevlar thread ??

    You don't say where you are in your "profile", but presuming that you are in the USA Dupont list the places who manufacture or sell kevlar thread on this page http://protectiontechnologies.dupont.com/sewing-threads-manufacturers there is also ebay http://www.ebay.com/bhp/kevlar-thread
  2. Personally, I would not dare buy ( nor dream of buying ) my wife an ironing board ( semi-pro , or not ) unless she said repeatedly that she wanted one.."practical" Xmas presents are what one buys for oneself, when thinking with your head. But, that said, if you also buy something "non functional" to go with it, like flowers, or something that says something like my "sig" here..then ... You might ( if you do buy her a "pro ironing board"..want to add to it, a "sleeve board" ( they are a small ironing board just for doing "sleeves" ) and a "tailor's ham"*, which is for ironing curves, like in princess seamed bodices etc .. *these are actually fairly easy to make, but can be bought ready made..and are very very useful to anyone who makes ( female ) "shaped" clothing..
  3. Milk glue= latex ( natural rubber) glue..brand name that the Brits at least will know is Copydex..or "Blue Peter mystery glue".. Windsor and Newton or Daler Rowney sell it as a "resist" in art supply shops.. Often used to draw on water colour paper etc as a "resist" or mask..because it can be used for very fine details, you can use it in an "open nib pen"..the kind that many years ago ( when I was young ) we used at school and which had a porcelain "ink well" built onto the school desk top..The ink used was low grade "Indian ink"..the pens were scratchy.. If you have ever done any calligraphy, that is the same sort of pen, but when used for drawing has a "sketching nib". If you have access to any household ammonia ( be careful with it, it can blind you )..dilute it at 1 to 5 ratio..that is add one volume of ammonia to 5 volumes of water ( do this in a well ventilated area, with the air being pulled away from you with a fan or similar )..only mix up a small amount..Put some onto a soft absorbent cloth* ( cotton , lint free, old tee-shirt scrap ) and rub gently over the area where the latex appears to be just under the surface as a "bloom", rotate the cloth so as to present a clean ( but impregnated with your ammonia solution ) part of the cloth, you may get it out that way.. Make a test on a scrap piece of the same leather that already has your dye on, that will tell you if the dye reacts with ammonia even when weak..Another way which may work, without ammonia, try rubbing the affected area with a scotch pad ( the kind you use for dishes ), don't rub hard as they are abrasive, but you may be able to "catch the latex" with it..it will probably take off some dye and whatever finish you put on, you'll need to disguise that later with maybe more embossing / tooling or paint..emboss or tool dry ( yes I know that is not normally how you'd do it ) because a similar "bloom" can happen if there is a small amount of humidity in the leather when you put on any waxing or top coat.. You can usually get rid of the latter kind of "bloom" by doing as BikerMutt suggested above..warm the surface and use a soft cloth with a polishing action at the same time .. That kind of "bloom" can also happen when you work on a cold substrate..you can get it when varnishing / polishing wood..or in the clear coat when spraying vehicles if your air line doesn't have a dryer trap or humidity trap built in..or if the air in the spray booth is very cold.. Acetone would take every thing off..as Danne said..don't go there.. * If you have a clean microfibre cloth..that is more gentle than a scotch pad..try using it first..go slow, don't press hard. Some people use this stuff with very fine sable or artificial sable type brushes to mask out detail, it will gum them up and kill them eventually no matter how well they are cleaned out..IIRC in the USA custom painters can get it ( or something very similar ) in bulk quite cheaply as "spray mask".. True "milk glue" would be casein based, and is not the same thing at all.
  4. Gritzner sole stitcher?

    I put the pages onto another HD ( not on this machine )..and forgot all about it, ( and of my "tax year" here,- business tax year, personal tax years are approximately May to May - and have been very busy too, I mostly look in and maybe post late at night ) so the translation is going to be late, but I'll get on it. The missing pages may well be the ones that cover where the bobbin goes ( I read through the pages very quickly and noticed that the missing pages were a "bit critical" to be able to thread it, but, we'll see ) I'll try and get it all ( the pages that Verc sent to me ) translated and assembled into a PDF with the original photos, up before Xmas hits us..
  5. Secrets from the Workshop

    You might want to rethink that a bit, or wait until you have a 100 or so in place, before opening it up to paying punters ( 4 vids a month is two years "give or take" )..otherwise anyone signing up in the early months, will have far fewer videos to see than someone signing up 2 years from now ( and the "early birds" will have paid a total of £72.00 by then ( I'm rounding up the pennies to £3.00 a month there x 12 x 2 = £72.00 ) ..anyone who can do the maths, won't sign up today..and be paying a total of £72.00 to see 100vids...when someone signing up in month 24..will be paying only £3.00 to have access to all 100 vids.. Nice idea..and I like your youtube stuff ..you have a particularly clear speaking voice ..and you don't do all the visual "back flips"* and "zooms"* that plague so many videos..and there is no "evil music"* getting in the way.. *All "visual effects" and all "music" is evil on 99% of all videos..unless they are "music videos".. ps..I like the Bob Ross ( who just "free-wheeled" his videos ) and Tony Hart ( who rarely spoke in his ) styles of videos..but, I think you and most here are probably too young to remember either of them.. edit reason ..made a typo in my maths the first time , originally read £180.00 ( I was projecting over 5 years in the first draft ) corrected to £72.00..the original "wrong" £180..which BikerMutt "snagged" in his quote below whilst I was correcting..my apologies to you BM :)
  6. Taking TK-8BL Sewing Machine

    Yes..what Uwe said :)
  7. Taking TK-8BL Sewing Machine

    "Here" I had to order mine from the UK..otherwise 1" steps only..the main market here for "belts" appears to be for lawnmowers and garden machinery..or you can "order" one in half inch increments from a "sewing machine dealer", who will then order it from Germany or the UK , but they'll charge you ( take the money from your credit card ) when you "order"... at double or triple the price they ( or you , if you buy direct from say College Sewing ) are going to be paying.. I now have large stock of belts, ( I prefer the toothed ones ) and bungee cord to "bodge" with while waiting for a belt size that I don't have to get here from the UK. There is also the weird thing that belt size is calculated as the distance around the circumference of the belt, but the circumference is measured as being through the middle of the "cross section" of the belt ( so it is neither the inside circumference, nor the outside circumference ) , but for some reason, French sewing machine dealers quote the measurements in cm or mm ( despite most belts being sold as in "inches" ) and some of them tell you it is the outside circumference, and others tell you that it is measured from the inside circumference. So to get fewer "wrong size belts", it is simpler ( and cheaper ) to buy from the UK or Germany.
  8. Some dyes which have "metallic salts" in them will react this way with some leathers, ( depending on the tanning of the leathers, and or the age or concentration, or quantity of the dye used ) or with other dyes..I've seen it happen more with black and purples, but have seen it with browns and reds, not much, if anything, that you can do about it without knowing the exact composition of the dyes and exactly what the leather was tanned with ( both "veg tan" and "chrome tan" as terms are actually pretty vague and really do not say exactly what was used, except that one involved chromium salts at an early stage in the process )..you could try various things ( like rubbing it over with a cotton pad moistened with a very dilute solution of hydrogen peroxide, or white vinegar at around 6%) to "mute" or attenuate the "effect" , but I don't think any of them would give an even result. You'd risk having a sort of "marbled" vaguely "insect wing" effect in some areas, could be usable, could be horribly patchy, you could also try rubbing very fine prismatic glitter ( the kind that is sold for Xmas decorations ) into the leather ( some black lambskin has the surface treated this way ) make it "sophisticated" or "festive"..a kind of potentially making lemonade from a lemon. If you know any custom painters and can get them to give you just a quarter of a teaspoon of "prismatic paint" ( it is very expensive when bought by the quart or litre ) that rubbed sparingly all over into the leather on the outside and then sealed could give you something very unusual. You could also "grunge" it, as above use either peroxide solution or white vinegar , but on a torn off piece of coarse natural sponge, dab it on, it should affect the dyed leather surface to leave a slightly marbled effect, do that in a few places ( work diagonally to make sort of marbled rough edged stripes about 15 to 20 degrees out of parallel to the short side of the wallet ), then seal again. If you are artistic paint a motif , skull or skulls or say a tribal tattoo type of thing in a contrast colour , or black around the middle line parallel to the long side , right along it.. No end of things that you can do to salvage it and make a "one off"..only problem then will be if it turns out "cool", you are not going to be able to be sure to get the background metallic effect every time if you get orders. :)
  9. Taking TK-8BL Sewing Machine

    "Most" being the operative word..my singer 211 motor ( original motor, original table, original machine ) bought from new.. did not have that ( or any other means of adjusting the belt ) adjustment available, normal three point fitting to table..but single "pivot" bolt attaching the motor to the mount..if the motor was pivoted to fit available belt sizes, the belts either rubbed against the back end of the belt slot, or was waaay too "slack"( didn't turn the machine pulley )..the belt was badly worn, cracked and splitting, probably the belt that came with the whole set up from new..the "bungee cord bodge" above worked..2 months later I was able to find a toothed belt ( needed 1/2" difference rather than the usual 1" ) that fit.
  10. Taking TK-8BL Sewing Machine

    Try "bungee cord"..the kind with an elasticated centre..wrap some around the two pulleys, so that you have some tension, mark the length that gives you , cut 10% shorter..hand stitch the ends together when they are butted together, avoiding as much as possible any "bump"..it will look messy..it will work.. HTH :) this "bodge" would never survive being run fast ( due to the difference between the driven side tension, before the machine pulley and the slack side tension, after the machine pulley ), but, as you'll be running it slow..it will work fine for as long as your stitching ( which joins the butt ends ) holds out..like using panty hose in place of a "fan belt" on a car..only this bodge can last for months if you stitch carefully enough through the braid that covers the elastic part of the bungee cord. The bungee cord should have a diameter which allows it to fit fairly ( doesn't need to reach the bottom completely ) snugly down into the VEE of the machine pulley..but which also fits "reasonably " into the VEE of the drive pulley on the motor..
  11. ABOK

    Pomes de Touline "key fobs" ( like the ones I posted photos off in para-cord etc ) made from leather laces or leather cords..are a nice , affordable, quickly made item to add on a leather stand at "ren shows" or similar..especially with a little description as to what they are derived from ( anything "Frenchy" sells well, IME, "on your side of the pond" especially with the ladies ) ..You should be able to work out how to make the "knots" easily enough from the photos.
  12. Tension

    That is probably about the best description what usually causes a "click" ..and about the best description I have read anywhere, of the most likely remedies for the "click" in question.. Raises glass ( of rather nice Martinique 45% by volume Rhum ) to you ..Take a bow Mr Wizcrafts
  13. YAYYY!!!! Knipknives

    That is the kind of satisfied customer review that everyone wants..one can actually feel your pleasure in owning your knipknives there BikerMutt, brings a warm smile ..
  14. Try a kilt..Heinlein recommended them too,.You can hide a lot of things under a kilt.