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About howlback

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LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Geometric Stamping, Airbrushing, Pattern Making
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    Tips & Tricks
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  1. What is the best style knife/method when trimming oversized belt lining? (I'd like to use veg-tan of identical thickness as a liner)
  2. And Argentina. They also cost half of what american tanned hides cost. I can't afford american tanned leather.
  3. Cobra class 14 Leather splitter

    Don't have the cash flow for it right now but if it sticks around long enough I'll snatch it up and bring it up to Los Angeles
  4. ISO- used Cobra 14 Leather Splitter

    There’s one on Craigslist around Austin, TX. Wish I lived close enough to pick it up
  5. Band Knife vs Blade/Handcrank Splitters

    Something with the ability to recall a specific thickness would be ideal (Landis 30 style). I’d want it mainly for leveling out the thickness of my pieces. However, I do buy 5/6, 6/7 and 8/9 oz hides. It would Be a blessing to be able to purchase only 8/9 oz and split the piece down depending on the application. Lots of factors here but where I buy leather, the heavier weight hides get picked through a lot less (better hides to choose from) and they’re not that much more expensive.
  6. I want to run my cut patterns and straps through a splitter. Assuming the pieces aren’t too wide, will a cobra 14/artisan do this or will I need a Band Knife? I use Veg Tan only.
  7. Formed Calf Lace

    I use Tandy’s Premium Calf Lace. It is beveled, formed veg-tan calf lace that is light weight, extremely thin and fairly strong. I use it on ALL my lacing projects because when you’re looking at it vs. “Real Leather” brand, Tandy’s craftsman lace, etc. the others’ top grains get lost but the calf-lace keeps that continuity between itself and the top grain of the leather on your project. I don’t know if I’m describing it best so I will just tell that it looks WAY better. It’s sometimes cursed with bad splices and discoloration for being as expensive as it is but it’s great looking stuff on a nice project. I’ve never found beveled, formed lace like this before and I want to know where Tandy gets it or how it’s made so I can either make it or have it made for me in more colors. I use a lot of this stuff and even with Elite pricing it costs me $1.14/yrd
  8. Good lord, it's already up around the price that a good tool refurbisher would sell one at. "Please note that photos are a BIG part of the description, please be sure to study them closely, so you are aware of condition of item." That statement kind of scares me. Having the Landis mojo would be cool but for a few more bucks the class 14 splitters gives a lot more options when it comes to the width you can split.|parentrq%3A7271d0d21620ad4b371b21cbfffb2cf9|iid%3A1
  9. Which leather burnishing machine to buy?

    Side note: I'm fairly certain the cobra burnishing motor is a modified motor from Porter Cable. However after buying/modifying a few things, IMO in the long run it's cheaper and a hell of a lot less headache to just buy the real deal. Buy once, cry once.
  10. Sewing misshapen leather after stamping?

    I've taped before casing successfully when doing smaller items. Larger ones seem to dry unevenly though.
  11. Which leather burnishing machine to buy?

    I "made my own" by utilizing a Habor Freight 5-speed bench drill press and a drill burnisher from Pro Edge burnishers. The entire thing set me back about $120USD. Does it work? Yes. Is it ideal? No. If I'm burnishing a larger piece in one sitting, the motor gets extremely hot. I'm sure there are other drill presses that may not encounter this problem but in the end it's a drill press and I'm betting it wasn't designed to run non-stop for that long of time (not from Harbor Freight anyway). I will say I just took a class on finishing edges from a well respected member of the leather community. He brought pretty much every type of burnisher there is for demonstration. The Leather Machine Company Cobra Burnisher definitely stood out. It's quiet, it sands (two different grits if you mod it like his) and it runs in reserve. IMO, Leather Machine Co. designed products seem to have "all the kinks worked out" and deliver that extra convenience for leatherwork that some of the cheaper alternatives lack. You never really know what works for you until you try it! I will say that my drill press set up works great for small stuff but I'm counting down the days until I purchase something a little more heavy duty. I just looked at Tandy's website... 8,000 rpms! Good Lort!
  12. Generic Loop staple setter?

    I should note that I own a MT-900. Got an insane deal on it, otherwise I would never spend so much money on a foot press. I was looking for a die set to use wide leather staples in conjunction with it.
  13. When I'm not stamping, I click out a two pieces with the same die and sew them together. However, when I'm stamping the top piece of a project, I noticed the leather changes in shape. Should I glue the stamped piece down to an oversized piece of leather and cut it out to match the shape? Side note, I know I can tape the back of the project but when after casing a project the tape won't stick and if I tape it before, it doesn't dry consistently. Just seeing what other do to combat this.
  14. Here is a link to Weaver's... Any other manufacturers I can buy from?
  15. Synthetic Leather right around the corner!

    Tremendous interest before product has been fully matured = “Hype” Better than plastic though, I guess