Bender

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About Bender

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  • Website URL
    https://www.fenderarchery.com/

Profile Information

  • Location
    CA
  • Interests
    Archery & Leatherworking

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Don't have one yet
  • Interested in learning about
    Not sure yet
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
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  1. good snaps (and bad snaps)

    AHA! OK I get it. Too much is dependent upon the qualities of the leather itself. Cool. I'll figure something out. I have a bunch of snaps that have been working for other products. So I'll measure those, figure out what they are and start with just going one post length longer for this new product.
  2. good snaps (and bad snaps)

    Oh Awesome! Now I see I have multiple choices. Which raises a question, any kind recommendation on a minimum/maximum on how far above the leather the post should be sticking out? Obviously too short and the post won't grab. (Figured that one out for myself already. ) But what about too long? I would guess that there is a point where too much post material sticking up makes it impossible for it to be pressed down and grab securely also. Again thank you! As soon as I get my post lengths figured out I'm placing an order.
  3. good snaps (and bad snaps)

    Hey! Since we're on the subject of snaps, are there snaps where the "shank" or "stem" or whatever you call it is longer than what seems to be "standard"? I have run across snaps described as "Line 24" which I think are longer but I can never seem to find any actual dimensional specs on these or any other snaps. I need to make it through 4-5 mm of leather with the head (the pretty side). Where that goes is actually a couple of layers. I have been doing my own searching, but getting nowhere because whatever i find is totally lacking in any sort of relevant info. So anything out there? Or do I need to reconsider my design to figure out some way to have where the snap goes come out thinner?
  4. "Long" term leather storage

    Ok, so no applications of anything during storage. Fine. Probably solves the color problem. And fortunately what we have now actually meets those recommendations. Due to where we live, this summer may be problematic, it gets to near desert like humidity levels, even in the basement/shop. But I'll burn that bridge when I get to it. Thanx!
  5. Probably not using the right key words or something but getting WAAAYYY too many results. We're small, so not moving a lot of volume...yet. So this leads me to wonder about storage of leather. I think our upholstery hide will be OK, but about our 10 oz veg tan? Don't want drying & cracking? Sure, could oil it but I seriously need it to not significantly change color. Right now we're using the Bee Natural Leathercare RTC Sheridan Resist & Finish on finished product. working good for our needs so far. But what about hide that hasn't been made into product yet. Now I imagine that taking a hide and storing it flat would certainly assist with the cracking problem. But what about drying out? Should we use that Bee Natural stuff on the hide even for storage before it's made into product? Although it doesn't seem to actually ADD much to the leather would it be sufficient to seal the leather so it holds what it came longer? Heck I'm so new at this I'm not even really sure what sort of time line we're looking at for how long a hide can be stored before its an issue, nor how long a whole hide might hang out with us in storage before it is all made into stuff and sold.
  6. Why the special hammers?

    Well, by "useless" I meant that it just wasn't delivering enough force to actually drive any sort of hole punch or anything through a 10 oz veg tan. (And yes I repeatedly check for sharpness.) And knowing that such have been in use since rocks were soft, yes I was rather befuddled. But then again, said hammer, being wood, it had an extremely light head weight. I do understand the idea of different hammers for different jobs. One whole drawer of my tool box at work is devoted to nothing but different hammers, from tiny little guys up to a short handled 8# sledge. I wonder though, I use chisels, punches, drivers etc etc almost daily at work. Most used with a steel hammer. Are these leather tools made from a softer or perhaps more brittle grade steel than what a mechanic's punch or chisel might be made of? Would that be part of why these specialty leather working hammers are made of softer lighter materials?
  7. Why the special hammers?

    I see that leather workers use special wood, leather, or plastic hammers. Fine. But WHY? I'm not doing any stamping yet, just punching holes. Bought a leather working hickory hammer, thinking to do the "right" thing. Basically useless. Tried rubber mallet, plastic faced hammer, and dead blow hammer. All just plain useless. Doing great with a simple brass hammer. So I'm not like thinking I'm some sort of Junior Genius, but rather raises the question, what am I missing? Why use such soft hammers? There's gotta be a reason. Because other wise it seems like it's just making life harder.
  8. Figured It Out

    Yep. I have to make a conscious effort to not wind up in full blown Hoarder status.
  9. Good tools?

    Thank you guys! Oh and battlemunky, thank YOU! It's nice to know once in a while that I'm not a complete, idiot, just a partial one.
  10. Figured It Out

    In another post a while back I was asking about cutting 10 oz veg tan, and dies and what not. I knew I could fudge something out of a piece of 2" pipe but I didn't have high hopes for getting and keeping an edge for any length of time. Munging around looking for something for another project, I ran across an old bearing. (car engine T-belt idler bearing) Sure enough the outer race was 2" diameter. I found the steel I needed! Pounded out the inner race, chucked up the outer race on washers and a bolt, on center, the stuck that in my drill press. Running the drill press motor, held a grinder up to it to form the edge, touched it up with a stone, and this thing is crazy sharp, and holding the edge. I even notched the edge so the cut pieces could have a "stem" like we originally wanted.
  11. Good tools?

    We aren't there yet, but my wife and I are considering doing hand tooling, possibly expanding what we offer. Naturally when I think of leather tools, first though is Tandy. But over the years, needing a thing here and there, I have found that some of Tandy's stuff is good, exactly what I needed. But then I'll some other thing and it's near worthless. Totally hit or miss. No telling what I'll get. Who is a supplier and/or manufacturer of quality leather tools, no screwing around? I would especially be interested in names of tool manufacturers so I know who I'm actually looking for regardless of who supplies it.
  12. Yet another question

    Thank you! Given an actual model designation to look for I can go back and look again at Sail Rite Now FWIW, I have attached a pic of the hemming I'm doing with the glue and fold method to keep it together until I sew it down. PITA but it working better than trying to fold it over as I go along sewing. Tried that on a piece of scrap and it was horrible.
  13. Yet another question

    Aha! Mea culpa ! I missed it that there was a separate forum for that.
  14. Well I did do my due diligence and ran some searches here but came up with nothing clear cut. This question would probably really be for folks that do machine sewing. I would like to do a hem on a couple of our products. Right now we're, measuring, gluing, folding, then clamping. We have a Tuff Sew (Sail Rite?) 9" Deluxe Super Straight stitch walking foot machine. We're wanting to run simple straight hems on 4 oz upholstery leather. Google searches turned up this: https://www.ebay.com/i/162640916131?chn=ps&var=461641406941 and this: http://www.techsew.com/plain-hemmer.html Anybody got a clue if one of these, or perhaps some other unit might work for our machine? I'm not getting anywhere by attempting to contact the attachment manufacturers and Tuff sew does not carry a specific recommended attachment. I can always attach a pic of the machine, the feet and the plate if that would help. Patience would be appreciated also Everything I know about sewing, and machine repair and set up (what little I do know) is entirely self taught. Oh and when looking at hem sizes for various attachments how does that measurement work out? For example we're taking the leather and measuring 1" from edge and folding over that edge to meet the line that the 1" measure lays out. Is that a 1" hem or a 1/2" hem?
  15. New Here & a Question

    Cool! Thanx! I gotta go do some stuff for my 9 to 5 but I'm on it! I would like to have something on hand before Christmas.