Matt S

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About Matt S

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  • Birthday 10/17/1987

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    England
  1. I have a spare Pearson 6 winder. The base broke before it came to me, but it can be bolted to a bench. The large wheel has been broken and brazed back together at some point so it runs a little rough but works fine. The wax pot insert is missing. All in all it's a user, not a museum specimen. I'll get you some photos later today.
  2. Sadly I think most automatic riveters like this are only suitable for splash/machine rivets. Nothing wrong with them in the right context, but not what the majority of us here need. I have a couple of manual presses which do jiffy rivets as fast as I need them. Still looking for a mechanical solution to saddlers rivets.
  3. Jaspa, that looks like a BUSM automatic riveter I almost bid for on eBay. Went for beer money but I would have had to pick it up halfway across the country.
  4. BUSM6: beautiful. 45K: works fine. 7: don't have one (yet).
  5. Yes, I do that with some of my machines which are not fitted for reverse, like my BUSM/Pearson 6 and my Singer 45k. However some designs do not allow or make it inconvenient for reverse, and so it would be handy. Singer 7s can be modified to sew >1".
  6. I've read your description before on how to increase the sewing thickness, but how did you modify them for reverse? I have a few ideas rattling around in my brain that would involve stitching over 1", and might be able to find houseroom for a 7...
  7. That's a great resource Mike, not only for leatherworkers but also for potential customers.
  8. West Germany existed between 1949 and 1990. Nice machine, they seem to be the mainstay of a lot of purse and bag makers.
  9. Both the 99 and 15 use standard domestic 15x needles, which are readily available. The 15 uses the very common 15 type domestic bobbins (which I have even found in the supermarket), whereas the 99 uses a 66 type bobbin which are available through eBay and machine dealers. Both use a simple drop feed so the underside of your work may get marked, but this isn't the end of the world. I have a 99k which I occasionally use to sew the bottom of wallet pockets with v69/tkt40 thread. The machine is theoretically able to go a little thicker but the main restriction is the size of needle. 15x needles for leather are usually only available up to size 110, which restricts me to tkt40 thread. I have found some larger needles but don't want to stress a domestic machine any further, especially when I have industrial machines better suited to heavier jobs. These machines are commonly available and not expensive, so you could consider them expendable -- use them up and when they wear out use the money you make from their use to buy a real industrial machine.
  10. Looks like British Army. The moustache was compulsory until 1915.
  11. How complicated is the pattern? If it's simple you could probably make a cardboard template then mark and cut several dozen in the time you could learn CAD. Small clicker dies can be used without a press by tapping along their length with a mallet.
  12. Check the screw tension in your needle block. I have found that if I tighten the gibs too far (to take all the slop out) there is a situation somewhere between "too tight to move the block back and forth" and "loose as a clown's pocket" that prevents the block moving fore and aft as far as it should, and it ends up with a much shorter stitch length than indicated on the dial. The long rocker arm doesn't follow to the bottom of the cam all the way. The solution is to loosen the locking screws on the LHS of the block (hex heads). Also make sure you're lubing all the little oil holes in the block generously, and I think there's one on the axis of the rocker arm which controls the front-and-back movement of the block. Have you removed the block and cleaned all the schmoo out? There's oil galleries behind the ways and they can get clogged. Like all British engineering you know when it's oiled sufficiently -- it starts leaking like the Exxon Valdez. For reference the Pearson/BUSM 6 can do as many as 16 to as few as 3-1/2 SPI. The screw which bears against the screw on the stitch length adjuster is used to trim the stitch length adjustment for accuracy as the machine wears. If you need to turn it, remember it has a locking screw which needs backing off first or you could bugger the screw.
  13. Some hides are as much as 10mm in places, but that isn't at all even across the hide. The first splitting is typically just to level the hide out for further splitting.
  14. Renia 315 Aquilim is pretty good. It's a water based neoprene contact cement. Doesn't gunk up when stitching (which is great) but it also doesn't dry as fast as normal solvent cement so I help it along with a heat gun. If you're in the US I know that Lisa Sorel sells it (learned of it from her videos so I'm happy to plug).
  15. Michael, why do you want to use veg tan specifically? It is far from ideal for garments so unless you're planning on tooling or embossing my advice would be to look at something more appropriate.