Matt S

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About Matt S

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  • Birthday 10/17/1987

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    England
  1. There is a seller on eBay who offers new-made tools, I suspect, made by the same oldboys that used work for Dixon's. I'll dig you out a link when I get home.
  2. Sew or rivet the holster to the belt before sewing it closed is my guess. Lots of Australian knife sheaths/pouches done this way. Alternatively, so long as you have the holes punched before closing it, you might be able to reach inside the mouth with a rivet squeezer or anvil bick after the holster is closed but before it's moulded.
  3. What sort of shotgun? SxS coachgun or 32" trap auto make for very different scabbards... Al Stohlman's third book has several sections on designing scabbards and cases to fit guns of various designs.
  4. What sort of holsters and sheaths do you make? The thickness of each layer of leather is not so important as the total thickness. If you make sheaths out of three layers of 8oz that's going to be 3/8" of veg tan, which is substantial for a machine. There are many machines which can handle that thickness and more, but most will not. When looking for such a machine you can find inexpensive (under $1000), you can find machines that do what you want and you can find machines fast but you are not likely to find all of these in one.
  5. As CW Knight said, most pick guards are shielded from electrical noise. Why not kill two birds with one stone and cement the leather blank to some aluminium sheet? Doesn't need to be very thick to provide some additional stiffness.
  6. I have one of them 6" Cowboy pull skivers. With the blade well stropped I can usually split 4" without stretching, so long as the leather is on the firm side. That's enough for the occasional few wallets but if making more I find it better to buy it the right thickness to start with, or send it out to be split.
  7. Forget the gum trag. Smooth your edges with fine sandpaper if it's not even, then moisten and allow to half-dry before burnishing. When burnishing apply minimal pressure and move as fast as you can. Moisten using plain water, spit, diluted PV glue, wallpaper paste or weak gum arabic solution.
  8. I would use either the saddle stitch or the back stitch. 8 or more SPI. 18/3 linen or a similar-sized braided polyester (0.4 or 0.6mm). You don't tie off stitches, you back-stitch.
  9. Constabulary and jimi I take your points concerning the age and unknown state of the machine. Yes I do like tinkering but I'm going to need this machine to work. As you say feed dogs and needle plates are really available. Reproduction needle clamps are available from China. The seller has some feet available for £30 each which is more reasonable but I wonder why he hasn't put one on this machine to increase its value. It has a shuttle and apparently the machine turns over without binding or sticking.
  10. Aye jimi that's the one. Been on for a while so I'm trying to negotiate a price with the seller. Is it not a k5 then?
  11. How about a stack of washers on a bolt with scalpel blades wedged between them?
  12. Ah interesting point I hadn't considered -- would the presser bar be a different size or style to a foot-type machine? The parts list describes the K5 as identical to the K1, except for the roller assembly being substituted for the presser foot. No different presser bar or indeed any other part than those of the roller assembly are listed.
  13. Looking at buying a 45K5 missing its presser foot. Generic industrial lockstitch feet look like they'll work, or could be fettled to work -- as I was advised by a technician. Am I barking up the wrong tree?
  14. The front and back/top are 2.5-3mm shoulder, the gusset is 2mm belly. Makes each seam about 5mm thick so quite manageable. Yes bridle-finish was originally developed for use with horse gear, which is why it is firm, supple and water-resistant. These all make for great properties for general leather goods such as trouser belts, bags, cases, satchels... if you split it down it makes for great wallets and watch straps too. This stuff is from the last pit-tannery in the UK.
  15. That's a nice looking bag, and a lot of stitches. Stitching in the gusset to one of these usually takes me about an hour. That's only 60" of stitching at 7 SPI. The whole lot is English bridle leather, the high tallow content makes for a beautiful and functional bag but glues don't hold it much and the corners are super-fun, what with having to bend 90 degrees in two planes. You can't quite see it in the photo but the gusset is one long piece. 1" per minute is usual for me unless the leather is thicker than 1/2". Awls are fast but they require some practice, they need to be sharp and they need to be smooth. Tandy awls are, apparently, absolute junk. Can't say I've ever had the pleasure. (Yes the upside-down buckle got corrected before the customer picked it up! :-p )