Matt S

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About Matt S

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  • Birthday 10/17/1987

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  1. Those are knives from plough gauges.
  2. The Coleman brand isn't very popular over here but we have plenty of camping or hiking stoves around. I have several, mostly powered by paraffin (kerosene) but none compete with the convenience of the 3KW fast-boil kettles that are available in every supermarket and department store.
  3. Well that would disrupt our ability to boil water for tea.
  4. I think that @Singermania has a copy.
  5. So I picked it up yesterday. For the record it will fit in a 5 door VW Polo so long as you take the head off and put the back seats down. Acceleration up hills suffers a tad though... Machine is generally in great condition, under 2mm of oil/dust/wax -- though this has protected everything underneath. The solution top wax box is still there, as is what I think used to be a hot water reservoir at the back (flat iron box with a loose lid and a pipe through the the front). Serial number is 10,400-something. Does anyone know how this relates to manufacture date? I asked about the missing wax tub on the bobbin winder. The chap didn't have a spare one but he said he had another, complete winder. After some dickering, a handshake and an exchange of cash I took home a second, complete gas heated bobbin winder, a smaller one that I think is for the Landis (but fits Pearson bobbins), three wax pots for the Singer 45, a spare Pearson shuttle, some bobbins, and around 100 various NOS needles. The manual for this machine is the February 1917 edition. There's also a BUSM catalogue but it's missing its covers and flyleaf. The Singer 45k parts list was not part of the sale but I'd fit sale. Guy also has a lot of misc 45k parts including a few shuttles for sale, with boxes of threads, full reels of webbing, saddlery hardware and cases of thread. I'll upload some detailed photos later this week, including the ones people have requested.
  6. Hi Matt,

    Great find on the BUSM 6.  Enjoy it.

    If you don't plan on keeping the 45K manual, I would like to buy it.


  7. Before you go north of Watford (where there be dragons) have you tried JT Bachelors of Dalston? They have a good line in veg tan -- sides and shoulders. Closed weekends though I think. Is there any reason you don't buy tooling leather from Abbey? I've only ever bought their Italian bridle.
  8. Potentially not the answer to exactly the question you asked, but I prefer to pay the tanner to do it. Dying is a messy process with a long wait between steps and I have never got as consistent as I would like. Dying a piece of russet veg is useful for those who have colour their leather, often to accentuate tooling or stamping. I do not, and the price difference is certainly worth it to me, even as a hobby. I get 3.5mm russet veg shoulder at £4/foot (buffed back) and bridle shoulder between 6 and 8 usually. A belt is half a foot, so for a difference of £2 per belt I've saved an awful lot of hassle.
  9. If you touch it to a wet rag it shouldn't sizzle. Creaseing on veg tannages like bridle are usually between 60 and 80 degree celcius IIRC. Make sure the contact surface is smooth and well polished; a rough, pitted or chipped surface will not glide no matter what temperature it's at.
  10. Yes that's the original manual, and one for the Singer 45k. I'll see if he has the tub for the bobbin waxer. I read your thread a few times, don't think I'll going to strip mine as thoroughly as yours, I'll never get the thing in fettle again!
  11. Haven't picked it up yet (have to figure how to get it into a hatchback... She'll be right if I take the head and feet off the stand I reckon) so the detailed photos have to wait till next week. The winder seems to be missing its inner wax pot, but otherwise intact, including the gas jet. There's a top wax box but no other waxing gear, flat table, a box of bobbins, needles and feet, and some various manuals.
  12. Well I'm excited, just bought a BUSM/Pearson #6! Came with bobbin winder and round-rein attachment, as well as some feet (not sure if they're prickers or needle steadies yet). Probably have to sell the Adler to make space for it... (Anyone interested in an Adler 67?)
  13. There is a seller on eBay who offers new-made tools, I suspect, made by the same oldboys that used work for Dixon's. I'll dig you out a link when I get home.
  14. Sew or rivet the holster to the belt before sewing it closed is my guess. Lots of Australian knife sheaths/pouches done this way. Alternatively, so long as you have the holes punched before closing it, you might be able to reach inside the mouth with a rivet squeezer or anvil bick after the holster is closed but before it's moulded.