Matt S

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About Matt S

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  • Birthday 10/17/1987

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  1. I wonder about the effect of the loss of mass/inertia on the function of the machine. Would a servo motor be able to cope with the uneven resistance on the belt through the stitch cycle?
  2. I dunno mate, saw some velcro gloves in the Swanndri shop the other day...
  3. Stool for sewing at

    I take advantage of the size of the "go" pedal and put the ball of my left foot at the bottom left and the ball of my right foot at the top right. I press the pedal only with my right foot -- the weight of my left keeps the pedal under very careful control. It also helps that I learned to drive on a series of vehicles with dodgy clutches ;-)
  4. Machine sewing braided thread

    Thanks Zigzag. May I ask how much it was? DCR wanted £3800+VAT for a 441.
  5. slow stitching speed

    Well that's your answer then: having a very low minimum speed is useful for doing the fiddly bits.
  6. Adding firmness to raw edge straps

    Not sure I'd use bontex inside a strap, but if you really want to I would suggest to cut the bontex so it fits within the stitch lines with a couple mm to spare. Then you won't have any exposed bontex on the edges and you'll slim down the edges slightly. 3oz is what, about 1.2mm. I would approach the job with a multi-fold, either two C-folds glued and sewed together or one C-fold itself folded in half then stitched. This would increase the thickness and strength, give some body/stiffness, and give you folded edges which I think are much better than painted edges on a strap. Sandwiching a length of webbing inside the strap like Latigo Amigo suggests would also work well and would eliminate stretch. I'd still use a piece that's narrower than the stitch lines though.
  7. slow stitching speed

    For me (whose tools all have to pay their way) it's about control and precise placement. I only go slow at starts and ends (especially backtacking), steps up/down for precise placement, sewing around curves and into square corners. My servo motors' pedals give 10 steps between the lowest and highest programmed speeds. I usually have the max speed set near the motor's maximum speed (4500RPM) -- tickle it for precision @80SPM, stomp it on the straightaways @750SPM. I'm not gunshy, I'm not claiming that slower production = better product, I'm not stretching my jobs to fill the gaps between coffee breaks. I pay myself. More product out the door = more pay. Having a slow machine speed available reduces the amount of handwheeling I have to do, and I sure can't handwheel at 80SPM. Can't hold onto the workpiece, press the reverse lever and handwheel at the same time either. Thanks for the recommendation Wiz. We have a smaller selection of servos this side of the pond, as we do 240ish volts @ 50hz out the wall. A better servo is on my wishlist, but it's a long list. This one only cost £100ish and came with a needle positioner.
  8. slow stitching speed

    Yes the RPM of the balance wheel on the machine = SPM. Is that 100RPM what's quoted on the machine or the motor? To calculate this from your motor RPM you have to know the ratio of the pulleys in your powertrain. A lot of upholstery-weight machines have around a 80mm pulley. So with a 40mm pulley on the motor (the smallest you can easily get) you're only getting a 2:1 reduction. The super-cheap servo on my upholstery-weight cylinder-bed machine starts at 500RPM so I had to fit a 3:1 reducer to get it under 250SPM. With the reducer I have it down to about 80SPM, which is pretty slow. Bonus with a reducer is that you get an equivalent boost in torque (punching power). I find this calculator handy:
  9. Machine sewing braided thread

    Hi @ZigZag, I've tried the two braided polyesters I have on hand in machines, Tiger 1.4mm and a similar size un-named polyester braid that is slightly rounder, looser braid and entirely dry. I had better success with the Ritza. What machine are you running these braids through, if I may ask?
  10. How to keep my ruler from sliding?

    I tend to only use the ruler to mark the leather with an awl, then cut the leather freehand using a knife. Usually a round knife or an Olfa wheel. My big ruler has a handle on it so I can press pretty hard to stop it from moving about. Cutting the leather in one pass makes for a much neater edge.
  11. Only if they come with a puncture repair kit!
  12. Show your Shop

    There's nothing quite like an egg banjo with a hint of coke smoke. I am quite envious of your meeting St Fred!
  13. trivial trivia

    My dad used to be a nun. Every time he was up in court the judge asked him his occupation and he would say "nun!"
  14. Show your Shop

    The steeplejack Fred Dibnah, who came to fame in the UK in the 70s for fixing or demolishing tall buildings using the original techniques where other contractors wouldn't touch the job, used to get criticised for having a "few" pints at lunchtime. In his words: "If I didn't av four beers in me I wouldn't av the nerve to climb bleedin thing!"
  15. Old Dr.'s saddle bags

    Well those are immensely cool. Most of the metalwork will need to be custom built I think (how's your tin bashing Mr LeBeef?). I think you could use penny washers in the rivets to spread the load like the original.