Matt S

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About Matt S

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  1. Michael, why do you want to use veg tan specifically? It is far from ideal for garments so unless you're planning on tooling or embossing my advice would be to look at something more appropriate.
  2. Yes that's the phrase i was searching for -- tunnel loop.
  3. That looks very smart Alexis. Did you make the hames irons yourself? Are they stainless or nickled steel? Will you be making a collar also? Having used several sets but never made any is there a particular reason why you used the keepers rather than a tunnel loop on the tugs?
  4. Thanks for sharing with us Brian. Looks like a real practical design that solves a problem lots of us have encountered. Keen to see your DIY edge finishing machine!
  5. Halcyonia it would be great to see some pictures of your #6.
  6. Depending on the context you could bull the item:
  7. I don't know where in the world you are Marcus, but Abbey England and a UK eBay seller offer new manufactured Dixon style pricking irons in 1/2", 1" and 1-1/2" sizes. Rumour has it they are made by the same guys used to work at Dixon's. If you contact these sellers they may be able to have a 2-tooth iron made up for you, or it you take one of their 1/2" irons (around £20) to a grinder you could remove all but two teeth. I've never handled a Blanchard iron but I would expect the angle and length of the teeth not to match your Dixon iron.
  8. This was on sale for some time on ebay UK. I am advised the stitch regulator assembly is from an old Adler machine. On such a machine the two wingnuts adjust the limits of forward (down) and reverse (up) sewing. Whether this means this K21 has been retrofitted to reverse I don't know, but I think that would be in the description if it has.
  9. What is the total thickness of leather you are trying to stitch? Patchers are not designed or capable of anything much above 6mm. Can you provide a picture of your work? A size 100 needle should be used with a synthetic TKT40/V69 thread, which is a size often used on commercial wallets and purses -- much smaller than the threads usually supplied with those lock-stitch awls and smaller than any linen thread I think I've seen. TKT40 is towards the largest you can reasonably expect to use in your patcher. Linen thread is a little difficult to use through a machine, as it has zero stretch. I believe that the machine has to be designed with it in mind, and linen threads have not been common in industry in decades. Prewaxed linen is especially sticky, and machines supplied for its use had heating apparatuses to soften the wax before it got sewn. I realise that you want to use natural materials for a more period-correct product but If that's your aim you should be hand stitching in my humble opinion, using tools and techniques appropriate to the time and region.
  10. That's very cool. What is the large brass piece? Is it something you cast yourself?
  11. Looks like some submodel of Adler 67. Uses a 134R needle. Usually can manage up to 8mm of leather, but that is maximum, I wouldn't recommend any more than 6mm regularly. Maximum size thread would be TKT20/V138 with a 140 needle, though you may be able to use a TKT13/V207 through a 160 needle with TKT20 in the bobbin. Parts and accessories are about as readily available as industrial machine parts come. As to whether it's a good deal, it depends on your situation (including local availability of parts and consumables), your needs, and the price.
  12. The 45K uses 214 or 328 class needles. If you have a 45K clone it will most likely be setup for this system but check your manual for this detail. As to the Chinese patcher it will depend on which type you have. The most common one (an inexpensive hand-crank that is sold with a tripod) is not a Singer 29K clone, though it is often decribed as such. I have have read conflicting reports as to what needle system it uses. As Eric says, once you know your needle system choose a size to suit the thread you use and a point style to suit the material you are sewing. Ignore the chart you posted, it shows typical uses and is not at all universal.
  13. Hi Diyer, I think your machine is one that's tempting me ;-) I take your point about deflecting thinner needles, I used words I didn't even think I knew as I turned size 160 331LR needles into shrapnel when I couldn't use the needle steady on my #6. Running flat-out is not something I intend to do, which as you point out will help with any deflection issues. Have you done much sewing around 2mm with your 105?
  14. I'm in the market for a cylinder-arm machine. I have a design in mind for mens' wallets which requires a cylinder arm machine. Thickness is between 2 and 4mm. Reverse is essential for this job, as access is very tight. Fairly straight-forward then -- so long as I use thread no larger than TKT20 (V138) I can use any number of Singer 153W or Pfaff 335 type machines. However, since workshop space is limited I would love to be able to use this machine also for sewing gussets into heavy satchels -- 4-8mm thickness of hard bridle leather should be easy enough but I want to use TKT10 (V277) thread or thicker, which elmiinates the usual cylinder-arm machines. I do not have the budget for a 441 or 205 type machine and was tempted to get a Singer 45K89 (cylinder arm snapping-foot with reverse) as I can deal with dog-marks. However some Adler 105-64s have come up, which seem to be a generally more refined product with more parts and accessories available off the shelf. Plus, I like needle-feed! :-) So to my question. The manual for the 105-64 recommends needles as small as 22/140, which will work well with TKT20 (V138) thread. I realise this is at the lighter end of the machine's comfort zone. Will I encounter problems forming a neat stitch in 2mm total of veg-tan leather? I am hoping that a 105-64 will prove to be a very flexible machine for a variety of jobs where my BUSM #6 is too much gun.
  15. @Dunluce what blade are you using for your skiving? I tried the safety skiver and several different notes until I found the boring English paring knife to be my most comfortable tool for the job. Gotta be ridiculously sharp and with a flat back, just like a plane iron. As bikermutt says, definitely go for something smooth and hard -- the tip of the knife rides over the work surface so you have a reference point for staying stable. I think @gmace99 has a video on skiving in his YouTube channel UK Saddlery.