Matt S

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About Matt S

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  • Birthday 10/17/1987

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  1. These are indeed excellent slings. The specs are available online with some judicious Googleing -- search for "M1907 sling".
  2. I saw a Tag Heuer in a department store last week. Bargain at £14000 reduction... To £56000...
  3. Thanks for giving us your time Brian, that machine looks like the dog's doodahs. The extra detail really helps too. Do you think the knurling on the wheels adds much to paint pickup?
  4. It's basically a recently produced Pearson no6 with a cylinder arm. Big thing for harness work etc. and no reverse.
  5. Is that the Tony Luberto one where you can move the foot side to side?
  6. What machine do you have Mike? I would look at a zipper foot, you can get very close with one of them. I once made one from a standard smooth bottom walking foot set by cutting off the left toe of the outer foot.
  7. How Northern! Do you peg your teabags on the line between uses? My UK-based money-saving tip is regarding strap cutter blades. Bloody fiddly to strop (i think that's the idea) and 50p+ each. Schick injector blades are even more, and double-edge razor blades don't snap cleanly enough to fit. But No10a scalpel blades work out 10p each and fit just fine and I buy them anyway for other leather uses. And they can be stropped more easily. Need a quiet motor for your burnisher? Silverline bench grinder for £25 including delivery. Pull all the safety junk off and put a felt wheel on the spare end and you have a power strop too. Just remember it's the most dangerous tool in the place (except for Yours Truly). Plus you end up with two 6" abrasive wheels you can put to other uses.
  8. Yeah that'll happen. Apparently it's common on pull splitters. I split a bunch of belts and 4" strips for wallets with my Cowboy 800 but ruined a lot of leather too. So much that I just bought a 7" crank splitter... Night and day difference. Those little Cowboy bench units are really best for doing lap skives, and that's why I keep mine around. A single lap skive or maybe two and the knife is faster. Any more than that the Cowboy comes out.
  9. This is why patcher machines like the Singer 29 were invented. Very small cylinder arm and can sew in any direction. I can't think of a way to do what you want with a normal cylinder arm machine. I would sew it on by hand with a whip or blanket stitch.
  10. How close to the edge of the arm is the needle on a large cylinder arm machine like the 441, 105, 205, or 45k? If a chap needed/wanted a machine for sewing heavy (v347/M8) threads as close as possible to a large protrusion on the underside of a piece, what other options are there out there?
  11. They want $100 for an edge beveller. That's a good chunk of the way towards a bluegrass edge machine.
  12. For edge dyes I use those empty 1" markers that graffiti artists enjoy. Very accurate and not messy.
  13. What about a 331LR, as used in the Pearson/BUSM 6 and Landis 1? They are about a 1/8" shank and 3" long.
  14. Yeah burnishing bridle can be a challenge. My current process is: (1) quick motor burnish with plain water to consolidate the edge (2) apply dye, giving it a quick rub with a rag before the alcohol dries (3) rub on some tallow to keep the fibres down (not too much) (4) apply burnishing solution, burnishing with the motor while it's still damp. Very easy to burn the leather here so keep bloody alert. (5) Put some beeswax on (not too much) and rub well in. Repeat a few times if you like. This is the result of a few years' casual experiments and gives the best balance between initial shine and longevity. It's an ongoing development but pretty much what most saddlers use. (I'm not a saddler, nor do I depict one on TV.) I have found it crucial to always rub in the same direction. Not all leathers respond the same.
  15. Well I mostly use bridle, which is a specific type of dyed veg-tan. Compared with russet tooling leather (what most of us mean when we say 'veg tan leather') it does behave quite different. As well as dying the piece has been pressed through a big roller to compress it, the back slicked with a gum solution, and it's been heavily treated with dubbin (wax, tallow and oil) for suppleness and water resistance. Most bridle has been through a tumbling process and is fairly supple before it gets to me. Baker's, on the other hand, is pit-tanned and as far as I know isn't tumbled, which means it's a bit stiffer (though of course it becomes supple soon enough in use if it's a flexing piece like a dog lead or shoulder strap). As to practical differences... well it's a tad more difficult to burnish the edges because of the tallow content. The Italian bridle is quite greasy so it is a bit of a bugger to burnish, but I have a motorised burnisher so I don't have too much of a problem. Baker's is easy because the core of the leather is fairly dry. Sedgwick is somewhere in the middle. Can't remember about Metropolitan since I've only ever bought one butt off them and that was a few years ago now. All stitch, cut and skive about the same as any other moderately dense veg-tan. One other practical advantage over certain veg tannages is that the back is always finished, meaning you don't have to line your items.