Matt S

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About Matt S

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  • Birthday 10/17/1987

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    England
  1. @Dunluce what blade are you using for your skiving? I tried the safety skiver and several different notes until I found the boring English paring knife to be my most comfortable tool for the job. Gotta be ridiculously sharp and with a flat back, just like a plane iron. As bikermutt says, definitely go for something smooth and hard -- the tip of the knife rides over the work surface so you have a reference point for staying stable. I think @gmace99 has a video on skiving in his YouTube channel UK Saddlery.
  2. When it's on, a clutch motor is always spinning. in the motor housing, between the motor itself and the belt pulley that drives the machine, is a friction clutch. Normally this is fully disengaged so the machine doesn't turn but by pressing the pedal the clutch plates engage in proportion to how far down you press the pedal -- press it halfway down and the clutch is less engaged than when fully down. Think of it like a manual transmission car, except that the gas pedal is stuck at full and there is no brake -- you control the speed of the sewing machine by pressing the clutch pedal (which operates in reverse to that on a car) and by manually applying friction to the balance wheel with your right hand. with practice an operator can get excellent control and sew very fast, which is what these machines were designed for -- professional sewing machine operators, who spend 8+ hours a day sewing the same sort of items at a piece rate -- sew faster, get paid more. It's a learning curve and not something you can jump right into, even if you have a great deal of experience with domestic machines. Servo motors on the other hand are controlled by a digital circuit. You set using a small knob or a few push buttons the maximum speed and all sorts of other little settings, and are much easier to control. Switch it on and nothing moves until you press the pedal. Push harder and the machine moves faster. Let up on the pedal and the machine stops dead. They can be just as fast in a production setting than a clutch motor. They are also typically much smaller and lighter than an equivalent clutch motor -- I once replaced an old 30kg clutch motor with a 5kg servo that cost me only £100 brand new. The clutch was the size of a 5 litre beer tin, and the servo, with its control panel, half the size of a shoe box. the Singer 45k25 is a classic in the world of leather work, and I would love to add one to the menagerie. They have been out of production for decades and spares are a bit of a premium, though because they are classics certain spares are being reproduced. Remember though that, as well as marking the backside of the leather (which is often not the end-of-world situation a lot of people think it is, and can be heavily mitigated anyway) and not having reverse, they are designed for heavy work with heavy threads that often don't work in thinner leathers. It all depends on the thickness of your items, the temper of the leather and what you consider to be heavy threads. The 45k class for instance can sew using thread up to 18/8 linen (v554/tex600/tkt5 nylon or poly) and down to 18/3 linen (v207/tex210/tkt15) but I don't think I could comfortably get a good stitch on anything less than 2 or 3mm total thickness with the 18/3, and much thicker using the 18/8. On the other hand, were I to saddle stitch say two pieces of 1mm veg tan I could use a thread just about as thick as I like. It's just one of the trade offs when machine stitching.
  3. I think it's a Gritzner (sp?) outsole stitcher. Dont know much about them but a name is a good starting point I suppose!
  4. Yes, the pricker is still available, as are the other tools except for the edge irons.
  5. If you believe that, I would like to sell you a bridge in London...
  6. Now that looks fun. You in the BWSS? I'm at Bisley usually but have been known to trek up to Wedgnock.
  7. Hi, I would like to take numbers 14, 28, 29, 35, the patterns and the journals please. I live between Heathrow and Edgware so can meet you at a place and time of your choosing.
  8. Near London for now. Mainly shoot paper and steel using vintage rifles.
  9. It's a practice borrowed from saddlery. It reinforces a strap when sewing on a buckle or loop. I don't think it provides much utility in a wallet seam, but it does no harm and some people like the look. I guess it proves the seam is hand stitched, at least. If the thread wears through you either need a better thread or to stop carrying rocks in your pocket
  10. Arrite mate. Where ye from? What you shoot? What issues you been having?
  11. You would probably need to have a custom die made up but you could use a $100 shop press instead of a prior clicker press.
  12. It is possible to make a permanent impression on treated leather but in my experience the stamp needs heating above 60 degrees Celsius. Ian Atkinson has a good video in the subject.
  13. Bump for the weekend
  14. Having a clear out, selling some duplicate and unneeded tools. All prices are plus postage, which I am happy to quote and combine. I will give a 5percent discount on the tool prices to Contributing members. Crew punch, size 39 (1 inch), unmarked but very likely Dixon's. Edge good and polished. £25. (Girth) strap pricker, for girth points on English style saddles. Essentially a 4SPI pricking iron but makes oval pricks rather than slanted, longer ones. Unmarked but a quality older item, looks like an old Dixon but can't say for certain. £20. Brass or bronze straining fork, another saddler's tool for which I have no use. Lovely thing and a lot of gravity in it. There are a few minor cosmetic casting issues but still l looks great. £40. Cobbler's glazing iron. Unmarked and old but unmarked. £10. Two edge irons of slightly different designs. The one with the darker handle looks older and has a slightly wider slot in the head with narrower flanges and can handle a thickness of up to 5mm. The lighter handled one is probably newer and could handle leather up to about 3mm. In use these are heated with a candle or small stove, dipped in wax and then rubbed onto edges in order to seal and burnish them. I am 99 percent sure that these are Dixon tools but cannot say for certain. £25 each. Two single creases, can be used cold or heated. One (with "Made in England" sticker still in it) is unmarked but looks identical to those from Dixon's. The other is marked 2 with a slightly thicker edge. £15 each. Payment can be made by PayPal, or bank transfer.