Matt S

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About Matt S

  • Rank
    Leatherworker
  • Birthday 10/17/1987

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    England
  1. My Scout Group has a Singer 29k

    Hi Fin, I'm about 500 miles south of you so can't pop over im afraid. However perhaps I can offer some remote assistance? The 29k is, as you may be aware, a patcher machine intended for sewing patches (repair or decorative) onto items made of cloth or leather. What would you be intending to use it for? 29Ks aren't terribly complicated machines. Is there something particularly wrong with yours or is it general help you're after? Singer 29Ks are quite desirable so depending on it's condition you may find that selling it could bring your scout group some useful money. Matt
  2. Class 11-24

    I'm not aware of any options for changing the direction of the feed on the 19-10, and TBH I think it would be a lot more effort that it'd be worth -- there's a lot of 9" feed-across-the-arm machines out there, compared with a long-arm machine like yours. Not sure about part #1, are you sure it's original? Is it stamped SIMANCO anywhere? Looks like your machine doesn't have a thread check spring, is that right? If so that's very unusual.
  3. Machine sewing braided thread

    Thanks, that's a much more reasonable price.
  4. Class 11-24

    That's one fine looking machine. I have a 19-10, which appears to be your machine's little brother.
  5. Machine sewing braided thread

    Ritza is a flat, braided thread whereas most threads are round and twisted so there's no direct comparison. The great thing about the flat threads is that they look a lot chunkier than they actually are. The other complication is if you just put a mic on a sewing thread it can squash down, especially if not bonded, so it's not too easy to get an exact measurement. There is a very handy comparison chart I refer to a lot here: http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html It has diameters in decimal inches and in millimetres as well as equivalent sizes of linen thread.
  6. very large cones for #69 in UK

    I'm not familiar with that sort of thread, the only monofilament I've come across was basic fishing line. TKT 40 nylon is usually a 3-strand twist, and may or may not be bonded. The thread used for top stitching jeans, for comparison, is usually one size larger (TKT 30) and a softer unbonded polycotton which makes it look chunky. TKT40 nylon has a breaking strain about 11lb for what it's worth. I also like the look of heavier thread and only use 40 where the leather is too thin to reliably lock tkt20 stitches inside the seam, or if I'm using a specialist machine that can't handle heavier thread, or if I need to match the appearance of another seam. Shirts, I think, are sewn with far lighter and softer thread -- 60s 80s or 120s, often cotton or polycotton -- mostly to prevent puckering and have their strain spread across several parallel stitch lines whereas in leather we often use just one. You can snap this thread easily by hand but even "just" 40 nylon cuts into my skin before it snaps. Tiger thread, being a flat braid, is difficult to compare with twisted thread. I've never seen strength ratings for it however I think that even the smallest size is far stronger than tkt40 nylon.
  7. very large cones for #69 in UK

    Le Prevo sells 500m cops of the stuff in a wide range of colours. £3 each, plus carriage and VAT. I use them, I threw a bunch into an order. I don't use TKT40 very much but for not many beer tokens I find it a handy way to keep some extra colours I might not normally hanve on hand for those odd jobs that come up that aren't worth buying a 3000m cone or I don't have time to wait for it to arrive. Mostly repairs. You can get continuous filament polyester in that size. This is more UV-stable than nylon but otherwise pretty similar -- except the price is at least twice as much and it's not as widely available. Core-spun polyester might work, as will poly-cotton threads (such as jeans thread) but it's not as strong. BTW you might find more results searching for TKT40 or 40s thread -- this is the metric size equivalent to V69 and pretty much universally used in the UK.
  8. very large cones for #69 in UK

    If you have a low ceiling over the machine or a wall behind the machine, put a small screw eye about halfway between the spool and the thread pin on the machine. This will basically do the job of the arm on top of an industrial thread stand. If there is no convenient place to put the eye, you can put it on a scrap of wood which you screw or clamp to the bench. Or, if you want to use a bobbin of thread on top of the machine, put a disc of felt or rubber on the pin before the bobbin to reduce overspin.
  9. Another Clicker post

    I make do with a no-name Chinese 6 ton hydraulic press for similar size dies. Cost me all of £60, plus the steel plates and a kitchen cutting board.
  10. Good buy or not?

    I agree with everything posted above. A 15 class domestic isn't going to work the best, but it'll work as a better sewing machine than no sewing machine at all. So long as you keep the thickness under 2mm or so, and the temper of the leather pretty soft, you should be able to do wallet inners if you baby the work a little. (Or at least I used to with my Singer 66.) It will also be useful for sewing fabric bag linings and all sorts of useful stuff. This will give you extra time to find a more suitable machine within budget.
  11. Sewing machine

    No worries Jeff. I don't have any particular brands to recommend. As @chrisash alludes most machines these days are manufactured by a limited number of Chinese factories. Premium brands like Durkopp-Adler still manufacture some of their machines in the West but most don't. Any dealer can import a shipping container of machines and have their name put on them. What makes the difference is how the machines are specced, inspected on arrival, setup and supported. Plus it helps if they sell "honestly" -- if they listen and understand your needs rather than doing the Honest John Car Dealership act. The machine I recommended in the previous thread was a Chinese clone of the venerable Singer 45K. These were used by industry for decades for all sorts of leathergoods -- wallets, briefcases, riding tack... They are simple, inexpensive (as heavy industrial sewing machines go) and nearly bomb-proof. However they only feed is via the feed-dog (the serrated bit of metal underneath the work. This can cause two problems. The first is that layers can slip out of alignment unless glued or tacked together. As a holster-maker I assume that you glue your layers together before sewing so this shouldn't be a problem. The second is that this feed-dog has to be quite sharp in order to grip the work. This can leave marks underneath the leather (see here) depending on lots of factors but mainly on the leather hardness and how tight you set the foot tension. These marks will be on the back of your holsters so you may not care, or if you do you can rub with a bone folder or tap with a hammer to reduce them (as here). @CowboyBob sells this machine, properly setup for leather, on a table with a good servo motor and speed reducer, for $995. If you need or want a reverse (backtacking) feature it'll cost you another $300. You can read the specs on his page here. He has a good reputation, contributes a lot of valuable information FoC on these boards, and has supplied many members here. Similar machines are sold by many dealers around the world, so please don't think that I'm giving him any undue prominence. Compound-feed machines, which feed the work using a combination of a "walking" foot and a needle that moves backwards as well as the feed-dog, tend to leave fewer marks on the work than a drop-feed-only machine but this depends on the leather and machine settings. (They also tend to suffer from less layer slippage but that's not an issue if you glue your layers together.) They are, however, far more complex and expensive than a drop-feed-only machine. Popular machines of this type for work in heavy leather are Chinese clones of the Adler 205 and Juki 441. Such machines, setup for leather, on a table with a good servo motor and speed reducer, start at around $2000. Best thing would probably be to find an industrial machine dealer you can visit with samples of the work you want to sew. If they won't demo the machine they recommend for your purposes -- or better yet show you how and let you do it -- don't give them your business. Failing that contact some of the dealers we have advertising on here. Testimonials are all over this forum, and they all tend to post on here. You're lucky in a lot of ways -- the US seems to have the widest range of dealers and excellent machines at bloody good prices accessible to the "little guy".
  12. Sewing machine

    Goldstar Tools appears to be a drop-shipper, so the machine's state when it lands on your doorstep will be a roll of the dice. It could be perfect, it could be a boat anchor. It will probably need a setup at the least. Either way you will have no recourse to the supplier if something goes wrong. I'm not convinced that this type of machine is suitable for your needs anyway. TKT20/V138 thread is lighter than most holster makers like to use. Further, you mentioned the thickness you wanted to sew (in a previous thread) and it will be right at the maximum that this machine can do. Problems can occur when you sew at your machine's maximum. We also don't know what the servo motor is like. Many of the cheaper ones have annoying design features -- I have one that will only start at 500RPM and another that has no ramp -- it will only do the speed you set it at, no variation at all. BTW I just noticed that it's an automatic oiler, which usually need you to run your machine at high speed in order the oil reaches all the required bearings and wear points. When sewing leather items, especially the small quantities that most of us on this forum sew, you will be sewing at a relatively slow speed, so the oil pump won't function. Ideally you will want manual lubrication where you put a drop of oil on each of about a dozen oil points dotted around the machine. This may sound tedious but it's only required once each day the machine is used and takes under a minute. I know that it's not everyone's cup of tea but I previously mentioned another type of machine, available from a reputable US-based dealer, that will be able to do the sort of work you want all day every day. It comes with a good quality servo motor, a speed-reducer pulley and a guarantee all for the same price that you would gamble on this less suitable machine. The trade-off that you get is that it's more likely to leave dog-marks on the back than a more complicated compound-feed machine like the 205 or 441 types. Ye pays yer money and takes yer choice.
  13. Sewing machine

    Looks like a Chinese clone of the Seiko CW8. Uses 135x16 and x17 needles and 111 style presser feet. These are readily and cheaply available. Expect it to be able to use up to v207 thread in the needle and perhaps 5/16 maximum thickness. These are at the upper ends of its abilities and it's good practice to not run your machine(s) near full capacity for all sorts of reasons. It will be much better behaved with v138 thread and if you keep the work at or under 1/4" thickness. What I would call an upholstery weight machine. $999 sounds like a great price. Who sets it up, sews it off and guarantees its function?
  14. Work in progress - dog leash

    I can recommend Abbey Saddlery in England. They have excellent customer service and ship internationally a lot. They have similar hooks, such as this, available in brass or stainless steel: http://abbeyengland.com/Store/CategoryID/370/List/0/Level/a/ProductID/73261 For prices you'll have to make an account. You'll have to pay VAT @ 20% but at least you won't get hit with import fees.
  15. Singer 17-23 capabilities

    There's even more if you count the 17U series Singer never seemed to publish the extensive machine specs that we expect today. I suppose it was assumed that your factory manager knew what he was looking at or trusted that the dealer did. I see nothing in the 17-23 operator manual, its catalogue entry, photos, or discussions on this forum and elsewhere that this particular sub-class could sew anything thicker that 1/4" or use heavier thread than any other Singer 17. It's just not what it was designed for. The svelte castings and tiny bobbin of the 17 class don't leave very much room. The largest needle thread I've read people reporting is TKT20 and that really would be the upper end. Certainly I couldn't get my 17 to run it. If I may suggest, drilling is probably not helping the... refinement of your saddle stitch. A diamond awl will make a huge difference. I like the Osborne 43. If you're laying out your stitches by hand you might want to invest in a pricking iron or a couple stitching chisels. At the very least a pair of dividers with fine points would make things more even around curves and such.