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About amuckart

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  • Birthday December 27

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  • Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
  • Interests
    Medieval reenactment
    footwear, purses and casework
    medieval and renaissance shoes
    old sewing machines

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Reproduction medieval shoes
  • Interested in learning about
    Sewing machine restoration/operation
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  1. Singer Friction Clutch-Pulley

    I can't add anything beyond the "bigger spring, new brake leather" other people have already said, but I'd love to know more about your japanning process.
  2. I looked at a CH8B when I was hunting for a big stitcher a few years ago. In the end it wasn't worth it because feet and needle plates and other parts were too difficult to come by. Irrespective of any other merits and flaws, the Juki 441 clones from manufacturers like Cowboy/Hightex, Cobra, and Highlead have become the de-facto standard for modern heavy leather stitchers and as a result there is a much wider range of feet and needle plates and other accessories available for them than there is for other similar machines like the Seiko you're looking at. I ended up buying a Hightex (Cowboy) 441 clone from China. It was a bit of an adventure but I got a machine and a full set of harness feet and needle plates and a pedestal stand for only a little more than the Seiko I'd been looking at would have cost me. Since then I've acquired a Highlead 441 clone which is better built and noticeably higher quality (and at normal price, quite a lot more expensive) which the feet and needle plates fit on to just fine. As others have noted, a 441 type machine is probably overkill for what you want to do. You may well be better off with a smaller machine that'll handle thinner materials more gracefully.
  3. 18th Century Leather Edge Beveling

    There's more than one question in here. Bags, straps, belts, and knife sheaths are all very different things, made by different trades out of different materials. The biggest barrier to giving an answer though is that "leather" covers a large range of materials from different animals, of thicknesses that was tanned, curried, and finished in a huge variety of ways in accordance with the intended purpose. Two pieces of leather made for different purposes could have almost nothing in common save that they once graced the outside of an animal. Think about leather used for gloves and leather used for the soles of shoes. Both 'leather' but utterly different in nearly every physical property you can name. Pre-industrial leather is also a very different material from modern 'vegetable' tanned leather that's been tanned using a short process in highly concentrated solutions of tanning liquids, so you can't extrapolate backwards based on the behaviour or modern leathers. Most modern veg tan is machine thicknessed and has a highly corrected grain surface. If bought as russet it also tends to be quite dry because it's intended to be tooled or dyed and finished by the maker. Modern leathers don't tend to come in nearly the range of finishes etc. that pre-industrial leathers did, and pit tanned leather that's been slowly tanned over the course of 6-12 months is a physically very different material than modern veg tan. Of all the expertly-made 18th century shoes I've seen, none have had any evidence of rounded edges, even along the topline.
  4. 18th Century Leather Edge Beveling

    Edge slicking devices do exist in 18th century contexts, for example shoemakers used them for sole finishing on some work, but that doesn't mean it was a universal practice across all crafts that used leather as a material. Try narrowing down your search to the context of the project you want to make and then go looking for references to the tools that would have been used to do the job.
  5. 18th Century Leather Edge Beveling

    That argument doesn't hold and it's based on a bunch of unfounded assumptions. Firstly that an un-rounded edge is "sharp" which they aren't and secondly that rounding an edge is simple and fast which isn't necessarily true. It depends an awful lot on the item, what it's made from, etc. etc. The comment was made on FB by someone who isn't a leatherworker, so I wouldn't give it much credence.
  6. My STH-8 will sew with 277 thread, but it doesn't like it. My understanding is that the CW-8 is basically the same machine in a cylinder arm configuration. Too much friction between the material and the machine. Because 441s have no lower needle guide like machines originally designed for needle-feeding difficult material, the needle deflects instead of feeding and you get inconsistent stitch length and missed stitches. Oh I wish I could go down that route! Unfortunately the cost of a Campbell machine landed here in NZ is around the NZ$10,000 mark, so that's not happening any time soon.
  7. i find myself sewing some tightly curved things that are too small for me to do on a 441 clone, and I'm wondering what the smallest machine that'll sew with 277 or 207 thread is. Singer 45k is too big and I don't think a CW-8 type machine will be small enough or feed think thread. The stirrup plate on the 441 might be a so,union but I'm damned if I can get an acceptable stitch quality using it, and I've had zero luck feeding Biothane without a feed dog. Is there a machine out there that'll do this? Thanks.
  8. Windham Cub

    it looks like the love child of a Singer 45k and a Pearson & Bennion A1. I can see turning that handle getting real old real fast.
  9. I've tried that and it didn't work well. They weren't quite the right height, the out feed had no slope away from the machine and they were much too light so the drag of the fabric could pull them over. If you're building something for a permanently placed machine, you may as well build it directly into the table and not have to deal with the join between the machine table edge and the big table edge.
  10. I would use the router around the whole circumference. You'll get a far better result that way. Take most of the material out with a jigsaw, leaving a small amount inside the lines, then take it back to the lines with the router. It does mean you'll need two templates, one for the full thickness cut and one for the corners. First route full thickness with a template like this: Then route the corners half (or whatever) thickness with a template like this That will give you a hole like this: You'll need a way to ensure the templates are perfectly lined up but that can be done by making sure the outsides are exactly the same size and clamping a builder's square on to the the table.
  11. Router bits have cutting edges that are a certain length, say 1 1/4". With a router bit like that you can cut material 1 1/4" thick. If you want to cut material 1 5-16" thick you have to leave 1/16" of the shaft sticking out pf the bushing on the router. This is invariably a Bad Idea. If you can get a 1 1/2" bit, then you can use up to 1 1/2" thick material for your table top. That's more than enough for what you want to do. 1" is plenty for table tops like this.
  12. Singer 97-10 Reducer.

    To answer this question - no, adding a reducer won't affect the way the machine stitches. Have you checked for wear throughout the machine? Does the shuttle carrier have any play in it if you try to rotate it while holding the hand wheel still? Is the point of the shuttle worn? What type and size of needle are you using?
  13. Adler 467 For Venator

    Thank you very much for sharing this.
  14. I was a bit unclear. You can't (or rather, shouldn't) try and cut materials that are thicker than the cutting edge of the router bit + bearing are long because doing so requires only partial insertion of the shaft into the collet of the router and if you get that wrong it can go very badly very fast when the bit is spinning.
  15. Yes, that's what you want. There are two types of flush cut router bit: ones with the bearing at the shaft; and ones with the bearing at the tip. For this job you want one with the bearing at the shaft, which that ones has. To use a bit like this you need to cut the bulk of the material out first so you're just using the router bit to create the finished edge. Just make sure that whatever material you end up using is thinner than the router bit is long.