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About supercub

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Holsters, Knife Sheaths, Cases
  • Interested in learning about
    professional techniques for finishing
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  1. Interesting. My pro 2000 uses the Juki style O ring. Any idea which machines (by serial number) uses which tire? I guess the only real way to tell, is to measure the old one and order accordingly.
  2. It’s been awhile since I found the O ring, and I looked for it at just about every local place I thought might have one. I went to every auto parts shop and industrial equipment supplier in my area. I finally found one that would work at a vacuum cleaner repair shop. It wasn’t an exact fit, but it was close enough to work. Mine uses an O ring that is approximately 1 7/16” OD and 1 1/8” ID and 3/16” thick. I later found the “right “ O-ring , but darned if I can remember where. I think it was at one of the machine vendors on this site who handle the CB machines. Seems like the rings were only a couple of bucks. The juki parts manual I have doesn’t show this part and I wonder if it wasn’t one of Ferd’s mods.
  3. Had a similar issue on mine awhile back. Replaced the rubber "tire" on the winder with a new O-ring. seemed to solve the problem. It was a lot less than $80.
  4. WANTED: Sewing Machine Expert

    Have you talked to Bob at the Hickman Saddle shop in Post Falls? He may know of someone who can help you. Another one to ask is Dick's Upholstery in Hayden. Not sure what they use for machines, but they may know of a good repair tech.
  5. Tippmann boss

    I bought one of the original cast iron Boss stitchers when they first came out. There was a bit of a learning curve with getting thread tension and a couple of other minor quirks. After I figured it out, it worked well and did pretty much what I wanted it to do. It paid for itself quickly and was a whole lot faster than hand stitching. I eventually upgraded to a Juki/Ferdco pro 2000, but I still use the Boss for small projects. One comment about Tippmann customer service. It is first rate! I needed a new center presser foot for the machine. Called the factory and they shipped one right out. Only problem was that it didn't work. It was made for their newer machines - which had subtle changes from my old model. Long story short - they machined a new part for me that fit perfectly. Too many other outfits will just say, "sorry your machine is no longer made and parts are not available".
  6. Fly reel case

    Yep, the mat cutter does a great job (if you keep the blade sharp). I started using one a few years ago - wish I had thought of it when I made these reel cases. Minor correction re: the reels. The small cases were for Billy Pate reels and the large one was for a Bogdan saltwater.
  7. Fly reel case

    Its been 20+ years since I made those cases and my memory isn't what it used to be. As I recall, most of the smaller cases are for Ross reels and the interior of the cases are inletted to fit each reel. The owners did not want shearling lining to avoid trapping moisture against the stored reel. The larger case was lined with shearling per that customer's request. As for building them, I made a wooden "plug" to approximate the exterior dimensions of the reel. I then cut out a cardboard pattern and fit it to the plug. Once I had the pattern perfected (lots of cutting and scotch tape) I cut out the leather pieces and started stitching. I looked for a box stitching attachment for my harness stitchers, but the ones I found just didn't work very well. The old fashioned awl and harness needle method seemed to work best. If I ever do them again, I'll spend more time on a 45 degree mitre for all the corners. These corners are all butt jointed. The rod case end caps are sewed with a similar corner stitch - though mitred. I had originally planned to sew the long seam with a curved awl and needles with a "hidden stitch", but I wasn't satisfied with the quality of my stitching and ended up with the baseball stitch. If you plan to do one of these, you'll certainly get lots of stitching practice.
  8. Fly reel case

    I agree that the Stohlman case making books are a very good guide. A number of years ago I had a request for several fly reel cases for high end fly reels. I had only a vague idea of how to build one, so I tried to copy a design that Stohlman had for a camera lens case in' Making Leather Cases - Vol One'. They turned out okay, but they were an awful lot of effort. I sure didn't make any money off them. At least I was able to practice lots of corner stitching. Later, I made a rod case with leather covered PVC tube. I used the baseball stitch since I hadn't tried that before. Next time I might do something a little different.
  9. Pres-N-Snap

    I bought one of these years ago after messing up many snaps with the old hammer and anvil setters. It was money well spent. They also make a die set for "pull the dot" snaps which works well.
  10. Darkening neatsfoot oil finish

    Thanks for the suggestions guys. Years ago I tried some "oil darkening" additive available from one of the large leather supply vendors. It didn't work as well as I had hoped - color was blotchy and the smell was objectionable. I'll try the Fiebings dye mix on the next project. The sun lamp is another option - I had forgotten about Bianchi's suggestion in the gunleather video.
  11. I'm looking for a way to darken my oil finished holsters without dye. Ordinarily, I rub on a couple of coats of pure neatsfoot oil with a shearling pad onto the completed holster and let the oil migrate through the leather for a day or so. If it was summer, I'd set out in the sun to "tan" for awhile. This time of year, the sun isn't too bright and it is often overcast or raining. I was wondering if exposure to a UV tanning type lamp or full spectrum light would help to darken the finish? Anybody try this?
  12. Yep, It's pretty much a SWAG on the 70%.. Anyhow, it's more than 50% molded on the front. Most of the flat backs I've done in the past have the front molded, then sewn (after drying) to the unmolded back. On this one, I sewed it flat, and wet the front panel trying to keep the back fairly dry. The thinner leather on the front helped too. You probably noticed that I "borrowed" the overall outline of your Colt Commander holster pattern and modified it for the XDS - thanks! As for the Saddle Lac - yeah, I'm not a fan, but that was what he wanted, and it is easy to touch up and restore after wear. I re dyed and finished a belt with the same finish that had been in daily use for at least two years. Looked pretty good after refinishing (or at least it matched the holster and mag pouch).
  13. A friend brought over a new XDS for a holster and wanted something a little different than a standard pancake. So, I did a semi flat back 70% molded front). Used 7/8 oz HO on front and 8/9 oz on the back. He also wanted a shiny black finish -- so break out the Saddle Lac. Not my favorite finish, but he was happy.
  14. I've looked at your holster a number of times, and the more I look, the more envious and depressed I get - especially when I compare it to my holsters. No matter how careful I am, I have never been able to get close to the high quality of this holster. Great Job! How did you dye the contrasting border so evenly? Airbrush? Q-tip? Artists brush?
  15. Corner Stitch Machine help

    I have the French box stitcher attachment for the Tippmann Boss. It looks very similar to the Artisan unit. I have tried to use it on a number of occaisions with very limited success. Like others have said, you need at least 3 hands to operate it with the Boss. It is also limited by its inability to adjust the stitch row distance from the edge of the box. The stitch line is around 1/8" from the edge and you pretty much need to miter the leather edges to get a good seam. Some means of adjusting the distance from the box edge to the needle would be a valuable feature. I also had a tough time getting consistent stitches ( both in length and tension). As far as turning a corner 90 degrees - forget it. I eventually used it as a hole puncher on long runs (fishing rod case) and hand stitched the box seams. If you have any protruding features like snaps, belt loops, straps or buckles, they will interfere with seam alignment and will mess up the stitch line. I find it almost as easy to do it the old fashioned way with a conventional awl and harness needles per the directions in Stohlman's book. Unless you can set it up to sew one specific product on a dedicated machine, I found it to be a p.i.t.a. to adjust and configure. I wish it worked better. If it did, I'd make more boxes and cases.