ljk

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About ljk

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 03/24/1944

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://info@make-a-patch.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    50 years of sewing, and leather working, embroidery machine
    owner, operator, mechanic and digitizer. Clicker die maker
    and operator. Sewing machine mechanic, volunteer sewing
    machine service on domestic machines at Colorado location.
    I own 40 machines

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    sheaths, bags, shoes, boots
  • Interested in learning about
    Old sewing machines and related.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    internet

Recent Profile Visitors

1,545 profile views
  1. Piping question

    Coming from the world of upholstery when I need to pipe or welt I use a welt foot of appropriate size. For boot side seams and purse piping I used lawn trimmer string. The hardware or big box store has many sizes and it is stiff. Plus you can melt the end and pull an appropriate taper. Lacking the right size foot a zipper or side seam foot will work.
  2. Pearson #6

    Hello I do have a 144w103 in Colorado, have some history. Also have a 111w155 in Florida that was the crinkle 50sh paint. Excellent original condition. tx Lynn
  3. I've have or had a Schabe, a Fipi, and a USM model C. I sold my business but kept the C. The C is very fast and reliable but only good for about 1000 clicks per day after that the flywheel gets warm and can multiple click (not good) The Fipi has auto height, I had to replace the trigger (microswitches) The Schwabe has never had anything but fluid replaced, simple design. Both machines run on phase converters. If weight is a problem a Tippman might be a good choice, or a Solar 10ton (check weight) Both can be viewed on Y tube. Best thing is the ability to manipulate a hide around the cutting mat. Those little mechanical clickers.don't look like much to me. My choice Cowboy cb10 good luck LJK
  4. Wanted to buy: Adler 30-7 or 30-5

    I do have a 30-1 It is setup with a gear belt reduction mounted on the back. This was a commercial system available back in the 90s. I used this machine on the bike circuit sewing patches and doing leather repair. It fits into a box for transport and also is used as a table. Has had work on the head will do 5/6 per inch depending in material thickness. Arm I would rate very good. Machine at my shop in Colorado won't be there till middle may. Price $750 If interested let me know and will send pictures when I get to Colorado
  5. Question on Singer 31-15

    I made the comment about the (31-19) because there may have been a possible miscommunication between the seller and buyer about the number. I have the short version I use for vamps. I also lengthen the stitches on most of the 33 and 44 series machine I have owned. The 31-15 was the go to machine for upholstery when I started the 111w machines where very expensive. I knew a girl on the bike circuit who used a 31-15 and not just a patch sewer, she could put a zipper in a heavy leather. She was a very accomplished stitcher. Good old machine.
  6. Question on Singer 31-15

    Hello The 31-19 was a walking foot. A fellow I knew had a leather factory and used them to sew thin western jackets and vests. He kept parts and said he could repair and service them in minutes.
  7. It seems like everybody clicks toward the middle therefore you get a slight valley. Naturally after time you get uneven cutting and possible die bending. Now I'm speaking of red die boards, and also wood boards. I go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap planner, about forty bucks. Use a low setting and plane from outside edge toward the middle. As you get toward the center the cutting action will lessen. Continue planning all around the edge until it will cut across clean and smooth. These planners usually run flat but adjusting the blades can be done
  8. Pfaff straight stitcher.

    This is a good straight stitcher with reverse, includes roller foot for leather. Regular high shank industrial machine $250 Located near Daytona Beach.
  9. These machines were used for a special leather product (vintage BMW) tank bags. Set up with teflon feet, split needle bar on 112w140. Also has special speed reduction pulley that can be quickly converted to high speed. The table also has plate you add to front of cuttout so you can use regular 111w style machine (included) Machines are near Daytona Beach but could be moved to southern Colorado in may (yearly) trip. total $650
  10. How did you get into leather work?

    It's been a fifty year adventure starting with upholstery and auto trim, followed by leather garments in the motorcycle industry. Today I'm veg tanning deer and elk for use in boots, shoes, wallets and purses. All but the current hobby were for profit businesses. I've had to adjust to have any success While looking for past info and pricing I have some evidence of an alarming pattern. Namely the continued effort too utilize subepidermal (split) leather) into top grain product. This has happened with me, getting corrected product not as advertised. The term full grain was not in my info 25 years again. Top grain was. We should question any supplier that does not divulge all info.
  11. JUKI LU-562-3 questions

    I believe your loose thread issue on corners or turning is caused by releasing tension by hand or by knee lift. This causes the first stitch or so to not tension up properly. Pull on the thread before the tension assembly, than stitch. I always make sure the take-up lever is at top or slightly descending before restarting. If this works than adjust tension assembly so the release is in the upper portion of the lift. Some machines don't have tension releases, my Singer 144w305 for example. Perhaps the experts could chim in, this issue has come up before and should be addressed.
  12. Consew sewing machines

    I have a Singer 144w305 w/reverse Used these machines in my leather shop we called it T-Rex When 7 layers of 4oz said no on my 206s we went to good old T -Rex. Looking for CB3200 money.
  13. work boots

    lI have no financial interest in this thread just trying to help. my go to machine in Fl. is a $2.00 auction bought 111w155 my thread is a $6.00 spool of bag sewing thread. you should learn to handstitch by doing those tool pouches, with a awl and some John Roberts needles your good to go. use two different colors of thread to prove it's done by hand. machines keep the top thread and bobbin thread on the bottom. I sew my uppers by machine (LIGHT LEATHER CAN BE DONE WITH OLD BLACK SINGER AND TEFLON OR ROLLER FOOT). my soles are done by hand in front of the computer (netflix) at night. I sew my insole to midsole and my midsole to outsole. all leather!!!!!!!! if you want a 3/8" plus leather sewing machine follow the advice of the forum members. the leather for the boots was home tanned veg elk I did myself. keep in touch tx Lynn
  14. work boots

    my bootmaking is part of a 50 year adventure in sewing, fabric and leather fabrication. as I age my best attributes are my eyes, hands, and experience. standing all day is hard. youtube and facebook will be your University . start by watching videos till you learn the learn the basics. then scour junk shops for footwear that fit your size and style, pay special attention to "how to measure". while junking look for tools, tools, tools. now take your favorite boot apart to learn construction, then start looking for a last. you can probably do the whole deal to get started for less than $200. I just made a pair of penny loafers with a $8 leather package including veg. and chrome from Hobby lobby on sale.
  15. first of all I'm not interested in being a die maker. although capable of making a suitable die for a small run let's say a thousand cut's it's not like the pro dies offered by our advertisers. these old USMC model C mechanical clickers are ideal for soles, wallets, holsters. what I can do is give you a quote for your cutting, along with making the die, my dies are steel rule 2/4 point and ideal for my cutting equip. they may not work well on hydraulic equip.