LNLeather

Some Tips On How To Use Antique

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This is some Antiquing info I got from Raymond Tipton of duckcreektraders

I thought this might be of some help to others. There are many ways to add antiquing to your work.

For many different results you can put your resist over some areas, painted or not, or you can put the

resist on the entire piece and then use the antique paste. I am sure others may do this differently, with

different products - for instance sometimes I just use the antique paste to color a coaster (I love the color of

undiluted Antique Saddle tan) and then when the piece is dry I put on more Antique Saddle tan to fill in the

low spots and then wipe with a paper towel, leaving the antique in to highlight the low spots.

Please, feel free to add your tips or pictures too

post-15330-077977900 1334675829_thumb.jp post-15330-071659000 1334675976_thumb.jp post-15330-058602200 1334676244_thumb.jp post-15330-059647800 1334676354_thumb.jp post-15330-078726900 1334676516_thumb.jp

post-15330-024711000 1334676556_thumb.jp post-15330-048440400 1334676581_thumb.jp post-15330-015714100 1334677054_thumb.jp

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Nice job! What rope tool did you use? TLF, custom....?

pete

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Wow, nice Tutorial. I used to use antique direct on the finished project. Lately I have been doing over a Neat-lac resist which I like and thne again over a different color. For example light or nuetral and then dark brown or dyes. The combinations are endless. THanks for sharing. Also your rope is killer. Now give it up what was the stamp? :You_Rock_Emoticon:

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Nice job! What rope tool did you use? TLF, custom....?

pete

The rope tool was made by Raymond Tipton of bunkhousetools and he used his emboss roll #164

post-15330-067215600 1334813110_thumb.jp

It is really cool how he did that, because you can't tell where he started and where he ended with the emboss roll.

post-15330-076750300 1334814067_thumb.jp

:thankyou:

Please, feel free to add your tips or pictures too. I learned a lot from this tutorial, and like Bluesman said "The combinations are endless"

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This is some Antiquing info I got from Raymond Tipton of duckcreektraders

I thought this might be of some help to others. There are many ways to add antiquing to your work.

For many different results you can put your resist over some areas, painted or not, or you can put the

resist on the entire piece and then use the antique paste.

post-15330-077977900 1334675829_thumb.jp post-15330-071659000 1334675976_thumb.jp post-15330-058602200 1334676244_thumb.jp post-15330-059647800 1334676354_thumb.jp post-15330-078726900 1334676516_thumb.jp

post-15330-024711000 1334676556_thumb.jp post-15330-048440400 1334676581_thumb.jp post-15330-015714100 1334677054_thumb.jp

Thanks a lot for the tips. Tried it yesterday and like the way it works. I did two pieces to test. I used Fiebings hi-liter and Eco-Flo gel, they both came out about the same after resisting (Satin Sheen) the whole piece.

The piece on the right is hi-liter and gel antique on the left. Both are Saddle Tan.

Have to figure out how much resist to put on to get background darker. Just experiment to see if I can use less.

Now off to practice more, to get it where I want it.

thanks for all your help, Charlie

Guess I should re-size the pics first. Will next time.

post-24960-039845300 1335116383_thumb.jp

Edited by Charliewz

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Thanks a lot for the tips. Tried it yesterday and like the way it works. I did two pieces to test. I used Fiebings hi-liter and Eco-Flo gel, they both came out about the same after resisting (Satin Sheen) the whole piece.

The piece on the right is hi-liter and gel antique on the left. Both are Saddle Tan.

Have to figure out how much resist to put on to get background darker. Just experiment to see if I can use less.

Now off to practice more, to get it where I want it.

thanks for all your help, Charlie

Guess I should re-size the pics first. Will next time.

Hi Charlie

There is so much to learn - I'm happy you found this to be of some help. :thumbsup:

ps.

I know some folks complain about large photos but I have learned to either

download the picture and view that

or

if you hold down the command key and then press the - key,

that will down size your window and you can see the picture easily.

Just make sure to count how many times you hit the - key

and then........ to put it back to normal hold down the command key and hit the + key

3 to size down and 3 to size up - will put it all back to normal on my computer.

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1337764239[/url]' post='249217']

if you hold down the command key and then press the - key,

that will down size your window and you can see the picture easily.

Just make sure to count how many times you hit the - key

and then........ to put it back to normal hold down the command key and hit the + key

3 to size down and 3 to size up - will put it all back to normal on my computer.

control 0 (zero on the number pad) will take you to the browser's normal zoom, 100% I think. I'm on an iPad at the moment so can't try it.

CTG

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control 0 (zero on the number pad) will take you to the browser's normal zoom, 100% I think. I'm on an iPad at the moment so can't try it.

CTG

Hi CTG

You are Absolutely Right! Thank You... Control 0 (zero on the number pad) does take me to my browser's normal view.

Thanks sooo much. I am sure that will be helpful to other as well.

Thanks again for your help!

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Hi Cheryl. This is the first piece I ever antiqued, and didn't know to use a resist so it went every where but washed off :-) Well mostly. I used another coat of tan, then two coats of resolene over about 28 hours and THEN felt safe enough to try again. I used Angelus med. brown acrylic antique. I practiced on here before using it on my guitar strap I was making. I'm pretty happy with the results but it's a pain to work with. Strap is looking good too, tooled the edges to have a border to shove some antique in, LOL.

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Hi Cheryl. This is the first piece I ever antiqued, and didn't know to use a resist so it went every where but washed off :-) Well mostly. I used another coat of tan, then two coats of resolene over about 28 hours and THEN felt safe enough to try again. I used Angelus med. brown acrylic antique. I practiced on here before using it on my guitar strap I was making. I'm pretty happy with the results but it's a pain to work with. Strap is looking good too, tooled the edges to have a border to shove some antique in, LOL.

Well. I guess every piece we do is a learning experience... One thing (among many) to remember, and I need to remember this one too, is to practice new things on scrap first.

I meant to say, I had liked the way your horse turned out. I know you did it the way she was in the picture you took, but I did like the way you got the look of Sienna facing away...

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Thanks Cheryl, I liked that picture of her too. I wanted people to wonder what she could see off the edge of the leather we couldn't :-) But you're right about practicing, AND I found out today the antique needs a finish on it too or it will rub off. I had to use a sponge but an airbrush would have been much better. Finish took some of the antique with it on the guitar strap I'm now working on.

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:sign23:

:cheers:

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:thumbsup: When did this get pinned?

Edited by LNLeather

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Thank you, great tutotrial!

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Okay, so I have a question for all of ya! What do you use to resist the antique? I typically use Super Shene or Satin Shene, but my white never stays white enough after I do the antiquing. I've also tried that Block Out stuff, but I find that this white crud will always settle in my low spots, and even the antique can't fix it. I want my white to be bright, bright!

What to do, what to do?

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Sorry, just checked my product bottles; I was mistaken - it's the Eco Flo Professional Finish (Clear Matte) that's been leaving white crud all over. The problem with the Block Out is it didn't work well (yellowed up the white quite a bit!)

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Out of curiosity, why do you mix the antique with Tan-Kote? What's the benefit?

I think you will notice and you will find that there is a lot of variation in how different leatherworkers use the different products.

The Fiebings Antique Paste I have is very thick and if the product is diluted, you will find it works as well and the product will

last longer - go further... I use water to dilute some of the Antiques, Dyes, and Finishes... A lot of it is personal experience, personal preference.

Try it, test it on some scrap and when you get a result or color you like........ well there you are.

ps

Don't dilute the original container. Use a small plastic or glass jar and use that for Testing and Using the Diluted Antique.

It also helps to label your concoction - the color and how much/what you diluted it with.

Edited by LNLeather

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Although, you will probably find others have different reasons to do it earlier on their leather...

Most times you will find that "slicking the edge" should be one of the last steps, after dying & antiquing but before the finish.

Edited by LNLeather

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Sorry, just checked my product bottles; I was mistaken - it's the Eco Flo Professional Finish (Clear Matte) that's been leaving white crud all over. The problem with the Block Out is it didn't work well (yellowed up the white quite a bit!)

Just floating around the forum and saw your question. I am not sure if you ever got an answer or not. I use a 50/50 mixture of resolene/water in thing layers. Approximately 3-4 layers. Allow each layer to dry before adding the next. I let my final layer of the mixture cure for at least 24 hours, more if I can. You always want to let your resist fully cure.

I have also read and seen lots of great resist work come from those that use Wyosheen. I have never tried it yet, but I plan to someday.

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I tried to use the antique paste several times, with and without Tan Kote, but finally gave it up. No matter how hard i tried, once it was dry, the whole paste flaked off.

Any tips what i might have done wrong?

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The light color you see on the projects is the natural leather with a finish on it. The antique (stuff in the grooves) is more than likely med brown antique paste by Fiebings or Eco Flo antique gel.

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