SteveHolt

“Raised” Effect/Beveling

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Hello guys/gals,

I am trying to achieve the raised effect as seen and highlighted in the picture attached. No matter how much I bevel and bevel, I cannot seem to achieve anywhere near this result. I know a lot of this can be attributed to my sub-par beveling skills, but I thought I could at least achieve something close to the picture. 

Any ideas/tips to help achieve this sort of raised look?

 

Thank you all so much for input. 

4425DDC6-EECC-4F68-AA00-434F16AAB575.jpeg

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First, what bevelling tool (or tools) are you using? If you can give us a make and number (like, say, B60 Craftool Beveler Stamp) that would help us figure out if it's the right tool for the job or something else. 

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I was using a basic Barry King checkered beveler tool, but due to tennis elbow I have recently switched over to a push beveler and Beader that I purchased from Bruce Johnson. 

The Barry King beveler I had looked very similar to the Tandy B701. 

Thank you!

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I’m no expert, but from what little experience I have I’d say that look requires thick leather, well-cased. Post a pic here of the results you’re getting and you’ll get good constructive feedback I’m sure.

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Could it be a very thick piece of leather and the bevelling is scalloped out to give a valley look, much like on wood they use a router or chisel

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Steve, are you just using a beveler? How thick is your leather?

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What you're seeing there is called a beveling ridge.  This one is done well and smoothly and it makes a nice 3D feature in the carving.  The type of beveler makes all the difference.  This looks like a standard beveler from Tandy (No idea about the number, sorry), but you can achieve this effect with a steep beveler from Barry or any of the other makers.  I t will be easier with a larger beveler so that you minimize tool marks.  Its possible its been done with a push beveler, but I don't have one of those, so I can't say for certain.  The leather does not need to be excessively thick.  This could easily be done in 6 oz leather with the right combination of tool/leather.

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On 4/21/2018 at 6:19 PM, Stetson912 said:

Steve, are you just using a beveler? How thick is your leather?

Hey Stetson! Yessir just the beveler. Using 8-9oz leather. 

On 4/21/2018 at 9:59 PM, immiketoo said:

What you're seeing there is called a beveling ridge.  This one is done well and smoothly and it makes a nice 3D feature in the carving.  The type of beveler makes all the difference.  This looks like a standard beveler from Tandy (No idea about the number, sorry), but you can achieve this effect with a steep beveler from Barry or any of the other makers.  I t will be easier with a larger beveler so that you minimize tool marks.  Its possible its been done with a push beveler, but I don't have one of those, so I can't say for certain.  The leather does not need to be excessively thick.  This could easily be done in 6 oz leather with the right combination of tool/leather.

Thank you so much immiketoo! I am absolutely going to look at some steep bevelers. I picked up a tool at Springfield the other day, “Craft Japan F896” which I think could help. Haven’t had the chance to use it yet, but we shall see.

Thank you all again!

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Immiketoo answered it pretty well. You have plenty of thickness there for it to work. A steep beveler will help.it looks to me like the lines were cut in with a swivel knife as well. Maybe experiment with this?

I know immiketoo would say cut less bevel more, meaning cutting lightly with a swivel knofe or not at all. so i would give it a try both ways (cutting light and heavy) and see which gives the best results.

It'll also help to make sure you are casing your leather enough and it isn't too wet wen beveling. Just my thoughts.

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2 hours ago, Stetson912 said:

I know immiketoo would say cut less bevel more, meaning cutting lightly with a swivel knofe or not at all. so i would give it a try both ways (cutting light and heavy) and see which gives the best results.

I would say that :)  Maybe I should say cut correctly bevel the right amount?  There are infinite combinations of this that will work, as long as you find what works for you.

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Is this bevelling possibly done from both side of the leather? As in, bevelled the top side and also bevelled the back, then the back filled with ... something ... wax? Epoxy? Wadding?

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8-10 oz Wickett & Craig leather. Properly cased and beveled with a Tandy B803. Only tooled on the top.

29791277_1631955580185923_7041823695078438101_n.jpg

27752328_1576802749034540_6622751928899043955_n.jpg

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I always cut in my line with 1/4 in swivel blade. For that technique I prefer the Square cut one and not the 45 angle for this as I can cut lines a bit straighter and get more blade in for a bit more exaggerated width.

I have two smooth store bought bevelers, a b200 and a b935. The B935 is thinner but much steeper than the b 200.

With my cut made I put my beveler in the cut and draw. If you want more just go back to the top of your line and draw again until you are happy. I get nice clean bevels with this method.

I also made a tool from some brass rod that will bevel both sides of the cut. Same deal .. but a nice cut, fairly deep is needed to hold the tool. Then I just press and push until I am happy.

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On 4/26/2018 at 6:34 AM, JRLeather2 said:

8-10 oz Wickett & Craig leather. Properly cased and beveled with a Tandy B803. Only tooled on the top.

 

Absolutely beautiful @JRLeather2 Absolutely beautiful...

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Beveling can be a challenge getting the casing just right sure helps. 

    JRLeather2,  WOW! beautiful beveling!  

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On ‎26‎/‎04‎/‎2018 at 9:34 PM, JRLeather2 said:

8-10 oz Wickett & Craig leather. Properly cased and beveled with a Tandy B803. Only tooled on the top.

Excellent job. I can only hope to be this good.

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Thanks for the kind words. I should also point out that was done with no swivel knife cuts and a single pass with the beveler. I also lean the beveler back to get the other line.

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