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About arz

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  • Location
    Brasov, Romania

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Wallets, belts, watch straps
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  1. Yes. For me it is much better having the feed speed slower. You can control it much better. Also, the knife can stay at a high speed so it cuts better. In a normal setup if you slow the feed speed you also slow the knife. However, the single most important thing I learned about using a skiving machine is this: get the blade very very sharp. Makes a world of a difference! Once you learn to sharpen it correctly you will be amazed at the difference A skiving machine is very nice to have. Mine is in a building about 10 minutes from our apartment (where we have our small shop). If it was in my shop I would use it daily! -Adam
  2. Glad it was of help. Great photo of your setup! -Adam
  3. Yes, the minimum setting is 200-500rpm for the Jack 563. You have to learn how to control it (to get to 200rpm). I put a foam ball under my pedal which helped a lot (old trick that works well!). Good motor though. I believe you can set the Ho Hsing to stop at 100rpm, real nice. That Seiko sounds nice!
  4. I like the power I have with the Jack 750w. The slow speed control is good and the needle positioning seems to work fine. But...I wish it was "just" a little bit slower for detail work. Which is why the Ho Hsing is nice. I have heard that it is not that much more money at College Sewing. Locally it is about 50+ euro ($60+) more than the Jack.
  5. My Jack 561A (750kw) motor has this feature. I may be wrong, but I think the back heel function is pretty common. If I were to buy a new servo motor I would buy a Ho Hsing G60 (or G40 for a smaller motor). It is the best motor for the price I am told. You can buy the Jack or Ho Hsing motors from You need to call them for a price on the Ho Hsing motor.
  6. Maker Mark

    Here is another place for people in the UK or EU: I have heard very good things about them. They are experts on hot stamping. They also sell one of the best stamping machines you can buy in Europe. Pricy stuff I think... Edit: In Europe (or B2B) it is common not to list prices. It is just the way things are often done.
  7. Maker Mark

    They made it very quick for us. The pricing page is kinda hidden Here is one of them: And another pricing page: And Etsy page:
  8. Maker Mark

    I had ours done by Hex N Hit Stamps. Very popular with the makers I follow on Instagram. Not cheap but very good quality and great people to work with. Made with brass, can be cold stamped, heated or used with foil in a machine. They will make any kind of machine holder you want. Their Instagram account.
  9. Hello from Eastern Europe :)

    Welcome to the forum! Very nice work!
  10. Adler 69 parts

    I bought parts from college sewing also. However, original Adler parts were much cheaper for me to buy direct through my local Adler dealer. You can also get an account at: khsew for feet etc. Good prices. I am looking for a new needle bar...$$$. I wish I could find a generic one
  11. UK suppliers

    I agree. I bought a very nice used leather thickness gauge from them. Arrived quick and in good order! I would order from them again....
  12. My Adler is working much better. I "think" I have it adjusted good. For those who may read this here is what I did: 1. I went through the service manual at lest twice adjusting everything according to spec. There we a few settings just a little off. From what I have read things must be set pretty good. 2. The take-up spring I think was the key to my problem of random knots. If it is set to low or too high a knot would form, often after I stopped. 3. Also getting the bobbin wound as perfect as I can. I am still having trouble getting the bobbins to wind perfectly even every time. I hope to get better at this. 4. Using the correct needle size. I found with my Italian vegtan a size 140 LR needle is perfect. With softer leather a 130 or 140 works very good. The 150 needle seemed too large and the knot I think was too lose in the hole. I am using 2-5mm of leather total with Serafil M20 (#135) thread top and in bobbin. I guess you just have to spend hours learning how to adjust these machines (I about gave up!). The local mechanic did not want to mess with it so I just had to learn. After working with it for hours (too many!) I am starting to understand it I "hope" I can now start putting it to good use! I do still have a few problems. My new KH feet are not working well. The needle will not line up with the hole in the center foot. I think the needle hole in my needle bar is "just" a little too large, this allows the needle to move to the left about 1.0-1.5mm when I tighten the screw. Oh well....
  13. UK suppliers

    We live in Romania. The only place I have ordered tools from in the UK is Abbey England. We really like their brass hardware! We buy tools, hardware, glue etc. from (Japan). Even with import tax (19%), the prices are good. We have been very happy with the quality. We have also bought from, Mando in France,,, Wuta tools, and from the US (Rocky Mountain leather etc.). Lot's of great places to get leather related items now compared to a few years ago!
  14. Update: I have installed the missing parts and edge guide. But...I am having a lot of trouble getting a consistent stitch. Problem 1). I get it adjusted good and it will stitch for a few cm (inches) and then a knot (most of the time on the bottom) will appear. It seems random. It will happen on a long run, or after I stop, no difference. Softer leather seems to sew much better. English bridle is not bad. But my Italian vegtan...I just cannot get it set right. I have gotten some beautiful stitches, but I cannot trust it to stitch more than a few cm before a knot will form at the bottom (more likely) or top. Problem 2.). If I stitch 2mm of leather, and then get to a part that is 3mm, a knot will show on the top of the 2mm part just before the 3mm part. How do I get consistent tension on multiple thickness? Say only 1--3mm difference between layers? I have tried everything I can think of and have read every post I can find. So....I had a local mechanic look at it and he just said buy a new machine He did not want to play with it. He did say that one of my problems was the bobbin might be spinning when I stop...or....I am losing tension at times. He recommend I put a small piece of fabric behind the bobbin and a drop of oil. I tried that and it made no difference. I could try to find a bobbin case with a break/spring in it.... I am using Serafil M20 (#135) thread. I have tried 130, 140 and 150 LR needles. Here are some things I have tried: 1. Different needle sizes 2. Rethreaded, tried threading through more/less posts (thread is new) 3. Make sure thread cone is thread through center eye above it 4. Playing with bobbin/upper tension 5. Make sure bobbin is wound even, not too tight or lose etc. (might still be a problem) 6. Adjusted reverse stitch length 7. Adjusted take up leaver/spring 8. Smoothed some burrs on the bobbin case, and other parts of the thread path 9. Tried putting a small piece of fabric (from a shirt tag) and a drop of oil behind the bobbing. To stop it from spinning. 10. New, steal bobbins from Collage Sew 11. Removed pin that releases tension when you lift the foot. I release it only by the hand lever. 12. Increase foot tension. It is quite a lot it seems to me. Here's some photos. I can post a video on YouTube later if that will help. Thank you for any help you can give! -Adam Photo above: Top thread is top stitch, next is bottom stitch
  15. Looks nice! A softer leather is easier to work with. We just made a bag from a Sedgwick lacing hide (2.0-2.2mm). It was hard getting the gusset glued in place (it was not turned).