Yetibelle

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About Yetibelle

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Minneapolis, MN USA
  • Interests
    Large Leather Sewing Machines

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  1. Cowboy 3200 vs 3500 vs 4500

    I decided on the CB4500 since it will give me the most versatility, the longer arm, the higher lift, ect. I will be sewing an average of 1/4 to 1/2 inch most of the time so the CB3500 would have worked but I think I would have tried to push it sometimes and then ended up getting frustrated. I know this because I did this with my 111w155, I kept trying to run heavy thread and bigger projects than the machine is meant to handle. I could get it to work sometimes, but other times I would just get the machine clogged-up. So rather trying to force the machine to go beyond the limits I took the advice and got a machine I could grow into. I am sewing leather and canvas bags and organizers (I need a better name for that). I have been looking the last few years for a Singer 97-10 or Singer class 11-22 or similar, I have not been able to find them locally for any reasonable price so I decided to go for a the Cowboy CB4500 since it has all the features I was looking for (plus reverse) in an arm machine, that can also be converted to a flatbed. I really love the old machines and I will still keep restoring them, but I wanted a dependable machine that could I can use everyday.
  2. Cowboy 3200 vs 3500 vs 4500

    I think Wiz was referring to the Holster and Stirrup plates. They have a raised surface for fitting thicker leather under the foot, but because they are raised you loose some clearance under the foot. You can see how they are shaped in the picture. The distance between the throat and the needle will be about the same. I suspect you only use these plates on smaller thick projects that need the lift. I assume you would use the standard plate most of the time.
  3. 111W117 on a table at last

    Looks Good. I love that base.
  4. Buying first leather sewing machine

    I think this is my new meditation chanting mantra: "Resist the temptation to change the question every time you get an answer."
  5. Consew 206RB

    I think this is the one. Goto: www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/206RB-5.pdf
  6. Consew 206RB

    Yeah - I saw that CL post, that looked like a really clean machine for the 3 minutes the listing was up. Good score! Haha Yes get a servo motor for it, they have a dial you can slow them up and down. They are about $100-$130 on Amazon. Very easy to swap out.
  7. Singer 29-4 question

    I really like the 29-4, they are fun machines. I found some 29-4 sew fine straight but when you go to turn the head they start to fail. I have been told this is due to a worn part in the head that can be replaced but that part is typically $30. So when you test the working machine make sure it sews as you turn the head and the stitch length is consistent. Having the second machine for parts is nice but most if those parts you may never need. The $450 includes the treadle base, or just to machine heads?
  8. Buying first leather sewing machine

    I struggled with "what machine is good for me" for the last few years. I am glad I started with old antique machines so I could get use to the big machines before I got a new machine. Chances are the first machine you get will be good but you will realize you should have got a different one. I recommend finding a good used machine and spending as little as possible starting out. You can practice and get over the learning curve for less money.
  9. I'm looking at that motor setup you have there is that just a portable testing motor you rigged-up? How can you tell/identify the Singer Class 7 models that can be modified for reverse?
  10. Cowboy 3200 vs 3500 vs 4500

    Those are good points I didn't factor-in the throats plate "math" in my thinking. How many foot and threat plate options are there for the 4500? I figure I would be working with the inline-foot and the left\right foot for narrow side lines. There are custom plates that people have made also if I remember right.
  11. Cowboy 3200 vs 3500 vs 4500

    Well that may be the option I will check on that tomorrow and see what they have in refurbished. So far that's 2 votes for the 4500.
  12. l was sooooooo close to talking myself into a 4500, that I just talked myself out of it. Darn...... I'm sure other must have struggled with this question so I'm looking for how you may have worked this out. I technically own a few machines, but I have never had a NEW machine and now I'm ready and just can't narrow it down. I want to run the heavy thread but in reality I don't see myself sewing thicker than 1/2 inch on most projects. I like the idea of the longer arm but Is it worth the extra $700 for 415 and extra arm space? Why can't the 3200 run the 415 thread if they use the same needle and hook? Last - What about the 3500 is this the compromise? Yes I do plan on calling Toledo - but also looking for what others may have gone through picking there first NEW machine. Thanks
  13. Techsew T1563

    I say any vintage or antique machine head that is 80% or more complete for under $100 is worth it. Especially if its on your list of machines. As long as its not damaged or some other abuse (turned into a tractor - Blasphemy!).
  14. Capability of hand crank singer 15-91

    Sure the old Singer home machines are really tough and can sew just about anything most of the time. I have a few of them myself, however if your telling me you have $350 to spend on a vintage machine, I would not recommend that 15-91, you should look for a Singer 111w155 or a Singer 29-4. If you want to stick with a vintage home machine look for a Singer 201-2 it is a little bigger than the 15-91 with the same direct drive motor. If you like the hand wheel option look for the Singer 29-4 machine they can use a treadle or a hand wheel. So many options..
  15. Capability of hand crank singer 15-91

    Also $350 is a lot for a 15-91. you should be able to get one from CL for under $150 most of the time. Plus they kind of wrecked it putting that hand-wheel on the way they did.