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About Danne

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  • Interested in learning about
    Making wallets and watch straps.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
  1. Low cost Templates

    Regarding the templates, I print my templates and glue them on "cardboard" I don't know the correct name. (See picture) If you do the same product a lot and you have done a couple of revisions and feel like it's your final product, THEN you can buy acrylic templates for this.
  2. Looking for a bell knife skiving machine.

    I might be wrong, and maybe it's only the machine where they have a configuration with single and twin motors, and you can update the single version. I can't find an exploded view of the Sieck or the Cobra, so I can't say for sure. But i'm certain there are others here who know.
  3. I agree with what you are saying. And I would say you should look at others work and try to learn from other (No. not copying, but things like techique) and compare with your old work and see your progress. And it's easy to think "My work is really bad compared to this guy or girl, and I have done this a lot longer" instead be happy with your progress. My work is really good IF I compare to the things I did a year ago. If I compare with others, there are ALWAYS someone who is much better. I inspected some handmade IWC-watch straps. They looked awesome, but either the stitching or the edge paint was perfect.
  4. Looking for a bell knife skiving machine.

    If i'm not wrong you wan't to be able to spin the bell at high speed and the feed in low speed for some leathers. And from the look of most of these machines you can do this modification "quite easy" if you feel like you need to. In short: Remove one pulley and install one extra motor a couple of brackets and a speed controller. And I guess there are "conversion kits" for this too.
  5. Looking for a bell knife skiving machine.

    Would you say the Sieck machine is one of the good machines, or did you mean I should buy a better machine like a refurbished Fortuna?
  6. I'm looking for a skiving machine. And I have a couple of questions. 1. If I buy something like this (chinese made?) http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/skiving/leather-goods-and-automotive-interieur/details/5385/ (From my understanding chinese made machines works quite good.) And a new Fortuna or similar are very expensive. (I do leathercraft as a hobby) the question is, what happens in 5-10 years when I need spare parts? 2. If I buy an old Fortuna (some rusty thing not used for years.) can I still buy spare parts for those machines from Fortuna? An old Fortuna I can renovate would be the best solution. I like machines and have worked with machines for many years. Which would make this an awesome project.
  7. Glue without the Stank?

    Yes it does. But it's not hardening. This is what my brush looks like after not being used for a day. Sometimes not in a week. I don't know what brush you have. Ts-boy looks like a copy of Minor, or maybe it's the same just "rebranded"
  8. Glue without the Stank?

    I have my glue in a glue pot (Minor 0.4L) When i don't use it i store it like this. And before use i shake it a little bit, because it gets a little thicker in consistency
  9. Glue without the Stank?

    I apply to only one surface. (Don't use to much glue, a thin layer is enough) if you glue flesh to roughed grain, put the glue on the roughed grain. i finish with either pressing the pieces together or hammering. After this i have really good bond suitable for continuing my work. If you need a solvent based glue too for some stuff. Renia have two products i like. Top-Fit and Colle De cologne. Top-fit is not stringy (or very little) Colle De cologne is better for waxy/oily leathers, but stringy.
  10. Nice wallet. Well done. i like the pocket shape
  11. Glue without the Stank?

    My brush look different. Ts-Boy looks like a clone of Minor.
  12. White Veg Tan

    Since you live in Us i would recommend Buttero (Really nice Italian leather) The reason I say "since you live in Us" is because you can't buy directly from the tannery (high moq) but you can find resellers in Us and of course asia. https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/leather/products/buttero-veg-tanned-leather-3oz-1-2mm-made-in-italy
  13. Glue without the Stank?

    315 and SG? For waterbased glues you can use regular brushes. I have a bottle of water on my desk to rinse my brushes after glueing. There are two ways to use Aquilim 315. 1. Apply 315 to ONE SIDE of leather (if one side is flesh side and one side is roughed/sanded grain, then apply to the piece with sanded grain.) and assemble directly and press a couple of seconds, or use a hammer. Now you have a good bond (which of course gets better when completely dried.) 2. Apply Aquilim 315 to both sides and let dry until it's clear, then assemble. If you need a good solvent based glue for leather i can recommend two different versions from Renia. Renia - Topfit: Very versatile glue, also a good glue for bonding wet leather (If you need that for molded pieces for any reason.) One benefit with this glue is that it's not "stringy" Renia - Colle De Cologne: Really good for oil tanned leather, but it's "stringy" I have most of Renias glues for leather. If i should choose three of them for the things i do, it would be. 315, SG and Top Fit.
  14. Still looking for some answers here.
  15. Glue without the Stank?

    Ok, just a way to make money. The included brush works perfect with aquilim 315. If you need a smaller brush, then you can use any brush you want.