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About brathair

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    Outdoors, Hunting, Shooting, Scottish Highland Games

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
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    Traditional Western Tac and Carving
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  1. JJ, thanks for the post. Your right that does cast it in a little different light. That sure would be a lot easier than what I was thinking. I am going to have to do some experimenting both ways. I will have to post pics of what I come up with. And yes the leather does look a little thin. I usually use a 7/8oz on this type of holster which is thin enough.
  2. Thanks for the reply. I agree It looks like it was press molded. I was thinking right along the lines of what you said as far the spacing my only concern was the ability to stretch the leather enough. I thought about leaving more room to work but then considered that it might create (for lack of a better term) wrinkles or seams in the leather if I did. I think I might do just what you said and take the top piece and mold it then cut the outline for the holster out and glue it to the back and go from there.
  3. Can anyone set me in the right direction by giving me some guidelines specific to this type of holster? I have made plenty of Iwb holsters. I have never attempted to make a closed bottom holster in the likes of this one before. The holster will be for a glock 30 which is very similar to the gun in the pic. Just think very fat and stubby. My problem is I don't know where to begin setting my margins for the muzzle in a holster of this type. The holster design will not be exactly like this but I do want it closed around the muzzle in a similar manner. The back of the holster will also be relatively flat, reminiscent of the modified pancake holster designs. Any help would be appreciated before I begin experimenting. BTW. To give credit where it is due.. I believe the holster pictured is made by Brigade Gun Leather.
  4. Does anyone know where I can find a Taurus pt738 dummy? I checked the typical blue gun suppliers as well as ASP red guns with no luck. I am currently trying to contact Duncan. If anyone has one and can point me in the right direction it would be appreciated.
  5. Assuming you are speaking of the Marine Corps Combat Knife with a 7" blade and a leather washer handle then the dimensions are as follows: Circumference of handle approximately: 3 3/8" Kbar factory sheath retention strap: 5"X13/16" Center to center distance between male and female end of snaps approximately: 4 1/16" Hope that helps
  6. If you have a good hardware store or auto parts store near by you can use upholstery buttons. They work just as well as anything else, and may be closer to you than other sources. The trick is finding them in the right size. Not everyone is going to stock them.
  7. I am going to agree with what everyone has said but also offer a little voice of dissent. I would stick with the cheaper leather right now. Tandy leather is admittedly not as nice as the Herman Oak and others. However, you are still practicing your molding and getting your patterns down. If the Tandy leather is cheaper for you to buy go with it. I have gotten descent results with Tandy leather and have used it on a number of occasions because it was what was available at the moment. You are still going to be able to improve while using the Tandy. There will come a point when your skill will be beyond the materials you are using but it is my personal opinion that you will recognize that point when in comes. In the meantime practice with what is cheap. Now if you have the extra money go ahead and spend it if you are curious as to the differences in the leather. JMO
  8. Thanks for the link. I will give it a look.
  9. Hi all, I am looking for any information I can find on 1900-1913 U.S. Calvary Officer gun leather. I have a client who is looking to have a rig made for Wild Bunch shooting. The costume he is putting together if for a Calvary Officer of the above time period. He has already ordered some of the Wild bunch specific rigs and wants to get something more period correct. I have a copy of Packing Iron unfortunately it only covers up to just before this transitional period. I have done a few internet searches as well but am still not finding the information I am looking for. Any guidance, pictures, patterns, links, etc. that anyone could offer would be very much appreciated. Thanks P.S. I will of course be asking the client all of this and more but I want to do my homework before our phone call this week.
  10. Hopefully one of you is a history buff or Reenactor. I am looking for any and all the information I can find on the uniform worn by Calvary officers at the turn of the century just prior to WWI. I am more particularly interested in the gun leather and sidearms that and officer would have carried at this point in time. Patterns, pictures, links etc. would all be helpful. Thanks
  11. Thanks for all the pictures everyone. That is just what I was looking for. I like it and I'm going for it. Much appreciated.
  12. Does anyone have any experience using 346 thread to sew heavy projects with, as opposed to a 277. I sew mainly holsters and gun belts made of leather that ranges between 8-12oz. I have always used a 277 nylon or poly thread. I found a good deal on some 346 thread though and am thinking of switching to take advantage of it. I like the way the 277 looks on my projects. I know on paper the 346 is heavier but I have never personally seen or handled the thread. How much of a difference is there going to be visually if I sew with the heavier thread. I use thread that contrast my leather colors so that it stand out. I don't mind the thread showing I just don't want the thread to overwhelm the projects because it is too large. Thanks.