MG513

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About MG513

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  • Interests
    Shoes, exotic skins, leather

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  • Interested in learning about
    More about shoes, specifically
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    ANother leatherworker

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  1. Adler 669

    Maaaaaaan. I’m not a cheap person (believe it or not), it’s just that I’m not sure if it will be worth it in the end. I mostly make stuff for me... Granted. Once the investment is made of course I may be way more inclined to recoup my funds, but then again I know me. Thx for the input. I knew the Adler was in a class of its own, I just wanted to be sure there wasn’t a machine a little lower to get my feet wet!
  2. Adler 669

    Ok now I’m really out here by myself lol. I found a Mauser a few weeks ago, 2500 for the head only. I had never heard the brand name before. It’s a Pfaff copy I believe, right? but I’ve heard they’re parts are crazy expensive. My nearest machine shop is 4 hours away, something goes wrong I’m screwed. Plus I know the 335 tops out just under the 15mm thickness... I’m good with traditional belts etc. I’d have the same fears pointed out by others about when the direct drive goes out then, what? It sounds like if I adjust my thickness requirement, the 335 type may work for me and may find one closer to my price range... hmmmmm
  3. Adler 669

    Nooooo don’t say that ! Man. I guess I’m going to have to consider this after all then. I definitely would want a synchronized binder and I think the narrow arm is a necessity. Hurry and buy so u can tell me if its really worth it
  4. Juki 1341 questions

    NEVERMIND! I looked it up and found the answer... I couldn’t figure out how to delete my previous question though.
  5. Juki 1341 questions

    May I ask, what is the advantage of a “synchronized” binder?? I assume there is a difference between that and one isn’t synched?
  6. Adler 669

    Thx a lot. I really wish these websites added these types of machine descriptions, I have no clue why they don’t! Anyways. Where would you say a Juki 341 or Consew 287 fit in this race? For me the parts and attachments seem more readily available and less expensive. Is there a machine that can handle 69-138, has the ability to disengage the dogs when using for binding, and produces a nice top AND bottom stitch and last but not least isn’t more than $2500?? Or am I dreaming? I also just found a thread you were on regarding the LS 1341 series too, as I first considered a used 341. U mentioned the Thor clone and I really I like the fact that it has the foot adjustment dial, but for the handbags/backpacks I plan to make I think that cylinder would be too big. This one really seems like a more heavy duty machine. Looks like u went with 2600 after all. How are you liking it so far? Their site says this tops out at sewing 10mm thick, do u have a suggestion for a machine 1 step up that could handle 15mm at the thickest? I find all of these options a bit stressful. EDIT: I didn’t read far enough. Now I see the 2600 didnt end up working for you
  7. Adler 669

    That’s the same thing I was thinking lol. Thought I must’ve been overlooking one of their models! Your comments were helpful too Uwe. And I love your videos btw, watch them all the time even when they don’t apply to my machines! I clicked on those 2 Juki links, but I’m afraid I really don’t see the differences between these machines. I mean is there one?? What’s the difference between the 145 series and the 246?
  8. Adler 669

    Thx for the quick reply. I’m in the market for one and I’m trying to narrow down the brands. I like the functions, including the longer arm of the 669, but it is way out I’m price range, even the accessories are expensive. The Juki’s and Consew’s sound more realistic for me, may I ask which Consew you went with? I own a 206rb and love it
  9. Adler 669

    This info was really helpful. Did u end purchasing the machine? What are your thoughts on it? Thx
  10. Hey Wiz! Of course sending out samples would be a no brainer considering I have very limited options where I am to visit in person. But at the same time, most places will have pros that are very familiar with these machines and they will easily be able to dial it in for a handful of samples. Not to insult my own intelligence, but sometimes “dialing” it in can be tricky. So although the samples would absolutely help show me what a machine is capable of, I also want to have the confidence that I can receive the same results at home. Plus I’ve never even sat down at a cylinder machine. I wonder what the difference would be sitting at 1 with a 10.5 inch arm versus a 13, etc... I’m thinking seriously of setting aside time to visit a place, but if that’s not possible the samples will certainly have to do. Thx for all the suggestions!
  11. Thanks a lot. I’ve been thinking a lot the past few days and honestly I’m not sure if I’m more clear or confused on which way to go lol. I thought for sure the 341 would be best, but I do know that some tight radius may be in my future and that cylinder may be a bit too big for it. So now I’m torn between the 341, the 335, and just yesterday I saw someone using a Juki 246. Last but not least the Adler 669. This is the last option simply because it’s the most expensive and likely will only happen in my dreams lol. However this machine allows you to disengage the dogs when you need to use it for binding and that seems like a feature that’s well worth the cost. Stitch quality is important to me, and it seems that the Pfaff/Adler’s get rave reviews for top and bottom stitching. But I also want to be able to sew with 138 thread top an bottom for belts and straps, it seems the smaller 335 types top out at 92. I know 1 machine does not do everything, but I definitely think it’s possible to get close. There’s just too/so many options! To add insult to injury I’m several hours away from any industrial shops, so that makes it hard to try before you buy. I bought my first 2 machines site unseen, and although I love them now, I vowed that if I bought another one id try it out first. I’d just have to plan out vacation time to do so. I would definitely like to try both feeding mechanisms and see what makes more sense for the bags/purses I’d like to make. Lol first world problems. Anyways, I appreciate all your tips! The research continues!
  12. Thanks a lot for your responses. The video was quite helpful, although I watch this particular channels videos a lot its only now that im noticing the differences between a walking foot and a needle feed. It now makes more sense what your were saying about being able to relieve a little pressure when going around a tight corner. i would assume the only way to geth around that on a walking foot cylinder would be to think of ways how to avoid those tight spaces in your initial design. Lots to think about!
  13. Also just for further clarification, are u saying the 341 is not in fact a walking foot machine??
  14. Thanks so much for the reply. Yea I’ve never even heard of that model Pfaff until now lol. Would u say that the 335 is the closest machine to this out right now, despite it being a compound feed I believe? I’m trying to decide whether to go with the 341 or possibly a 335. I like the additional thread options and punching power provided by the 341, especially as it uses singer 111 parts and should cover whatever I may decide to make in the future, but I’m wondering if at some point the smaller diameter cylinder may come in handy. Decisions decisions!
  15. Hey, first I want to thank you for suggesting the Cowboy, as this had yet to come up in my search. I assume this is a Juki 341 clone, correct? Can a binder also be attached to this machine? You mentioned that you used a different machine though, can you say which one? So far I really like the 341 but if you can get results like what youve shown Id like to research that type of machine as well. I am selling my Consew 206rb to get a cylinder and Im trying to narrow down the results. Thanks