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About dikman

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    South Oz

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  1. Sounds like a plan (I think), LD. Post some photos if it works. And yes, cutting and welding the bars to narrow the table seemed like too much trouble. One problem I've found with having "normal" size tables is that I keep piling stuff on them when I'm not using them!!!!!!!!!
  2. Considering it went from Berlin to Scotland, in a cardboard box (!), I'd say you're lucky that's all that broke!!! I'm sure you could find someone who can braze it, might not look too pretty and the heat will affect the paint finish a bit but at least the repair will be out of sight.
  3. Once I got the idea into my head, I chopped the table! Took just under 2 hrs, so a fairly easy job. Only downside is I lost my parts drawer, but I can live with that. I could put in a cutout, like in Chuck's photo above, and perhaps cut off a couple of inches or so from the back so it's not quite so deep, but at this stage I'm happy with just the smaller size. If I decide to keep it as is I might fit some beading around the edges, just to make it look neater (the front laminate was missing when I bought it).
  4. This is what I currently have, and seems like a lot of wasted space (at least for what I do). I guess the simplest option would be to cut the table back to the actual leg width. This will reduce the width by 14" to 32". Next option is cut and weld the two horizontal metal bars to reduce the width even further. Either way is going to be a lot less work than building a new table.
  5. See what you mean, not a lot of info turns up, but it looks like a nice little walking foot. They say light/medium/medium heavy glove leather so I would think it should handle the seat leather?
  6. Madmax, I too thought that the single central support could be a little wobbly, unless it was made particularly thick! I have a spare set of legs from a table and was toying with the idea of using them to make a narrow version of a "standard" table. It wouldn't be quite as compact as the Cowboy table but should be more stable. Failing that, making one with four vertical posts, one in each corner, might be another option, although making something like that with adjustable height might be a bit of a problem.
  7. Sorry mate, should have posted a picture. The only one I could find in a hurry is on this page - http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cowboy.html
  8. The biggest problem with this machine (besides the horrible paintwork!) was the lack of a thread tension release. Going through the old parts lists I found what it was supposed to look like but didn't like my chances of being able to buy one - so I figured I'd make one. While obviously not as neat as the "bought" one, it works, which is the main thing. The shape is also slightly different as I'm assuming the genuine part is probably hardened, being so thin, but all I had to work with was plain steel so I put a twist in it to give it more strength where it pushes on the release pin. It took a lot of trial-and-error fitting and grinding to get it so it would just squeeze in without removing too much metal. I was going to paint it but then realised with all the oil in there it would probably dissolve the paint, so I just gave it a good coat of thick wax. It's not pretty, but I can't see it when it's inside!! It was a bit of a pain working in that area! Now for the paint........
  9. I have a Pfaff 335 which is mounted on a conventional table, which makes it look like there's a lot of wasted space. I've been looking at some of the minimalist-type tables that the Cowboy-type cylinder arms etc use and wondered what are the pros and cons of using this type of table? It would certainly have a smaller footprint and would be practical to fit wheels to and make it somewhat moveable. Could be an interesting project. Do you folks who use these tables find they have any serious disadvantages?
  10. You're doing well, Chayse. Now you've got to admit, isn't it a lot of fun fixing these things up?
  11. Yep, I'm already noticing that . The straight stitchers aren't too bad, but those walking foot machines are getting heavier and heavier and heavier.....
  12. Be careful, it doesn't always work like that. I had a blower for my forge that was a beautiful old Italian unit (was used for circulating air in old radio communication cabinets) and one day i turned it on and saw a couple of sparks come from it, but it still worked. Later I opened up the connection box to have a look and the lacquered covering on the winding wires had deteriorated but because they disappeared into the body of the motor it was impossible to repair. This is the other real danger with old motors, if the wiring that actually goes to the coils is moved it has a tendency to flake off the lacquer coating as this becomes extremely brittle with age and heat from the motor.
  13. Nice puns, Mike . ndnchf, it's good that you understand what we're talking about re- the motor. Many people don't realise how potentially dangerous they are. I still have an old Singer clutch motor (first one I got, and mine's bigger than yours ). I'm reluctant to get rid of it because, like you and Constabulary, I reckon it's a wonderful old piece of machinery - but I'll never use it and don't really know what I'll do with it. At least yours has the braided covering on the wires so there's a good chance that the wiring is safe - for now - but I notice in the second photo that it has joiners on the ends of the wires that are wrapped in the old cloth "insulation" tape. That stuff is also not good. Having said that, as long as you don't touch or move the wires it might be ok - for a while.
  14. First thing, motors that old can be dangerous once you start moving them around and/or messing with them. The wiring insulation was generally a rubber compound which, over time, becomes hard and brittle, and when it's moved the insulation breaks and falls off. The switch box may have a large capacitor in it (mine has) for starting the motor and these can also dry out and make the motor difficult to start. I recently bought a 111W117, which came with an old Singer motor (different to yours), I didn't hesitate in junking it. As for servicing, if it's been greased and still spins ok then the only other thing that might be an issue is if the clutch faces need cleaning. If yours is working ok then my advice is don't touch the motor! The servo is a no-brainer, particularly if you want to do leatherwork.