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About dikman

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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    South Oz

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  1. I'm not sure how you'll go with a small cylinder arm that can handle heavy thread, hopefully others with more experience can provide suitable models to look for. I think the 227r can handle up to 207, but my Pfaff 335 can only handle up to 138.
  2. If you can find a larger pulley to replace the handwheel you'll slow it down even more.
  3. One of the advantages of a walking foot is no slippage of layers if using multiple layers, with a roller foot you could get slipping/bunching. I've also found that it's fairly easy to get needle deflection and breaking (not nice!) when using a roller foot if the leather is too thick or moves in any way while sewing. As for seeing the needle where it enters the leather, yep, I know what you mean. I bought an inner foot that is slotted so I can see where I'm sewing, not perfect but acceptable.
  4. Nice buy, and looks to be in remarkably good condition. Like that stool!
  5. I have a 201K (similar, just a little bit later model) with the original Singer handcrank. It takes a bit of effort to get through thicker leather (I would say 4mm/10 oz is the comfortable max.) Plus with that homemade handcrank you have to turn it backwards compared to the Singer (geared) crank. A nice writeup, but a bit over-the-top in my opinion, and way to much money for what it is.
  6. Looks good! That original setup would need to be bolted to the floor, I reckon, doesn't look particularly stable to me!!
  7. Funnily enough, I've found I'm doing the same thing, always studying holsters and belts.
  8. Wicked, there is a lot to learn about industrial sewing machines, particularly relating to leather use. Just keep reading, it took me quite a while to start coming to grips with the subject. For what you want to do any of the "old standbys" should be more than adequate - Juki 562/563, Consew 206, Singer 111W153/154/155, Singer 211G165/166, Seiko STH-BLD, all are pretty similar in operation and capability. Or a Pfaff 335 cylinder arm. These machines are all "oldies but goodies".
  9. Fish-scale pattern? Makes a change from basketweave.
  10. Nothing wrong with that video, Wiz, looks fine. Bit of a motley bunch you've assembled!
  11. Paint it? Heck, it's in far better condition paint-wise than all of my used machines! I'd leave it like that (unless you want to change the colour). That little wooden needle holder looks OLD!.
  12. Very nice, on the face of it looks to be in very good condition overall. You've done well.
  13. Matt, I've made a few different ones and the one big advantage that one has, in my opinion, is compactness. To make one like that you have to either cast your own pulley stack or figure out how to join different size pulleys plus machine it to take the bearing - not impossible, of course, but a lot of messing around, and time as Darren said.
  14. Nice. Just wondering what I could use it for. Might work for stitching bullet loops on gunbelts? Might have to make one anyway (just 'cos I can ).
  15. Yep, first one is a basic edge guide. Only problem with attaching it to that plate is you have to make sure that plate can't slip back, otherwise the edge guide will move. I'm no expert on feet, I'll leave that to others.The hook thingy fits into a hole along the back edge of the bed and is a pivot for tilting the machine back. You can see the round bit screwed to the table that it fits in to. This is an older style of tilt. The roller wheel is a roller feed, used instead of a presser foot. Not a lot of use on a walking foot machine!