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About dikman

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  1. Bit of a problem if trying to make a minimal table for a flatbed machine, due to the large cutout needed and the drip tray underneath. I guess a pedestal-type mount could be made, but it would be a bit more complex than that needed for a cylinder arm machine. All I can suggest is cutting down a standard table so it is no wider than the legs and perhaps cutting some off the back so it isn't as deep. I have to make a table (eventually) for a walking foot head I have and that's all I'll be doing.
  2. You don't necessarily have to buy a new machine, just one that is suitable for what you want to do. At least now you have a better idea what to look for.
  3. My tables always seem to end up with extra holes drilled in them .
  4. Brian, I found the same thing except I filed the bottom of the plate to allow the lever to touch the bottom of the frame slot (can't go any further than that!). I watched all the mechanicals to make sure nothing was touching where it shouldn't and everything works fine.
  5. Not controversial. Clutch motors are great for high speed garment machines, not so good for the slow speed and control often needed for leatherwork. Someone who is skilled can use a clutch motor successfully on leather, but that isn't most of us! If you're new to this then a clutch motor can be a scary thing to start with, if you can get it fitted with a servo then do so, it will make your leather sewing much more enjoyable. Fitting a speed reducer with a servo will also give you increased low-speed torque, but that may not be necessary, just depends what you're sewing.
  6. Download the manual and read it - lots of times! Try and clean out as much dust and dirt as possible, using a stiff brush and rags, before oiling it. If you can't get the Lily Oil then hydraulic oil (ISO 34) is pretty much the same thing. Make sure it turns over ok by hand, if it doesn't find out why (don't force it). Finally, if it's got a clutch motor be warned, they are scary things for a first-timer and hard to control for leather work. 225.pdf Manual.
  7. I was just looking at the photos and thought "aha, the needle's in backwards" and felt pretty clever - then I found others had beaten me to the punch! Don't feel too bad, work9to5, you aren't the first to do this and you won't be the last. At least it's an easy fix.
  8. If it worked before then the needle height should be ok. Did you insert the bobbin so that the thread is coming off in the right direction and is threaded correctly? You could try reversing it in the bobbin housing and see if it makes any difference.
  9. That is one serious looking machine!
  10. I've got one of these and it's a nice enough machine, for what it is. As Wiz said, the needles are what I would call an odd-ball size. I fitted a roller foot but haven't actually used the machine much (it was free, but took a bit of work to get it running). It should sew what you want, but If you're looking for your first leather machine this is probably not the right one to get (I consider it more like a second machine when someone already has a suitable leather machine). A bit of advice, if you think you'll be getting into leatherwork then seriously consider a walking foot machine. It will be much more suitable for leatherwork and as Wiz also said factor in a servo motor. You'll be struggling with anything less than this combination.
  11. Chucky, as it's only $2000 I think you should buy it and then you can tell us exactly how it works and what it does.
  12. The motor looks ok to me, only down side with an all-in-one unit is that to change settings you have to clamber under the table to get to the controls. Had to smile at the "600w bigger than 3/4 hp" bit. Technically, yes, it's bigger than 3/4 hp but the difference is so small you'd never notice it!
  13. Ah, but it's got a "new, powerful motor" . Quite a write-up they gave it, easy to see how someone new to the game could get suckered in.