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About Chief31794

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Tifton, GA
  • Interests
    Leather Work, Music, Grandkids.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Western Floral Carving, Lacing
  • Interested in learning about
    Leather Craft
  • How did you find
    Google Search

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  1. Maybe I got a good one, never know. Mine is about 2 years old and I've replaced the tip once, use it a lot, goes through batteries pretty well, but mine works great. Chief
  2. I use a cheap thread burner that I got off of Ebay, instant on, uses 1 AA battery, battery lasts a month of so, no chance of scorching leather which I used to do from time to time when using a lighter. The point on this thing lets me burn the thread into a "Ball" recessed into the hole it came out of, locks the stitches and barely shows at all. Works exceptionally well on machine thread (277), works for hand stitching as well but takes a second or two longer to melt the thread. It looks like this. Chief
  3. Thanks Thanks Thanks Bob.
  4. Beautiful job Bob, and I am a big fan of lacing and this is super impressive. Chief
  5. If Wiz is right about your location, I'm in Georgia and would be able to make something like this for you, contact me at
  6. Thanks Rohn, I prefer Mexican Basket Weave lacing but this one work pretty well too and some people like the "retro" look of the double loop. You're not allowed to post pictures of bills, I've tried when showing wallets or money clips and most software will balk at trying to upload it, so I just automatically smear the bill to make it uploadable. That is where it started/ended, however, I hadn't tucked that back in when I took the pictures, I take a modeling tool with the sharp end and push this small piece back into the lacing. You are correct and win the prize, see the answer above as to why I hadn't recessed that piece at photo time. There are at least 6 pieces of lace used in making that wallet and the splices where you end one piece and start another are totally hidden, the only small hiding you have to do is where it meets back up to the start point. Thanks, Chief
  7. I have had this camo pattern printed on leather that I got from Springfield for a while, decided to make some items from it. It is a really nice leather 4/5 oz and very soft. Inside is hand made from Mission Grain Pigskin. Also I posted this because many people think that all I know how to do is Mexican Basket Weave lacing. This is more "old school" double loop lacing. Chief
  8. Thanks Thanks Bob, I have some of that embossed leather as well and it does a good job. I got three of these hides from a guy who had killed them and then had them tanned and whomever he had tan them knew what they were doing, they're like butter and look really good. Chief
  9. Genuine Gator (still has the hunting tag attached to the skins). Whoever tanned and finished this material did a great job, most of it is usable and feels like butter, cuts well and really easy to work with. I have 4 skins in the shop and three are like this one, the other not so much, stiff, hard to cut, very little usable. A good tannery/finisher is imperative for working with this stuff. Interior is glazed pigskin, and a faille cloth liner on the wallet back. Chief
  10. Thanks, I started leather working in the late 60's and at that time every thing was laced (just about). I still like the look as well. Chief
  11. Thanks These do protect Bibles pretty well. I prefer to have the Bible (it seems to me that nearly all Bibles are different sizes), but taking orders for them doesn't facilitate that so I have them provide the measurement of the cover height, Width and the thickness of the spine. I then lay the cover out leaving bengin space, and 1/2" clear all the way around. That makes them the height + 1" for the height, the (Width X 2)+ the thickness + 1/4" bending allowance for the width. As long as the custom measures to within 1/8" it works well. Forgot, I also add 1/8" all the way around for the lacing holes the 1/2" clearance is inside the lacing holes. Sorry. Hard to remember the steps easier to just do them. THanks,
  12. Thanks Thank You Thank you. Bob, I use #77 super strength contact adhesive spray for this, used to use Master's Contact Cement which is what I use for everything except Faille Cloth and that's because if you're not very careful it will "bleed" through the cloth. The spray works really well. Chief
  13. Don't get much call for these in the past few years. But got this one, made from Hermann Oak (c) 4/5 oz with Faille Cloth Lining. Chief
  14. Thanks, straps aren't terribly difficult to make. Market isn't huge on Dobro Straps, Banjo and Mandolin straps are a medium volume market, guitar straps are a large volume market however, it's flooded with people and companies that make guitar straps. Chief
  15. The main difference is length and attachment method. Dobro Straps are attached to the headstock and must support the instrument while it is lying flat and banjo straps are attached either with hooks or directly to the J-Hooks or cradled all the way around the drum to support the weight (13 - 15 lbs for a banjo with a tone ring). Some banjos cannot mount a cradle strap due to the way they support the J-Hooks (normally less expensive banjos have supports in the middle of the J-Hooks). Guitar straps are normally 48-60" long, Dobro Straps 60-72" long and banjo straps depend on whether they are attachment type or cradle type. Hope that helps, here's a couple of pictures to help (maybe). The guy playing the dobro below is Frank Poindexter, he's been a professional recording artist for many years, worked with Tony Rice (he's actually Tony's Uncle), Frank plays regularly with the band, "Deeper Shades of Blue". The Banjo Player is Jamie Sparks another professional recording artist, Jamie currently plays and records with "The Bluegrass Brothers". The strap is an attachment type banjo strap and the two pictures show how to mount the two different types of banjo straps Chief