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    Long Island, NY

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    None yet but trying...
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    All aspects of leathercraft
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  1. So I ran through a bunch of scenarios today and I think I like the look of just one round hole in the corner (top). I think it’s the cleanest look. I will just treat tight curves the same as I do 90 degree corners. Now I just need to figure out the break point where I would use the two prong Stitching Chisel. Thanks for your help Stetson.
  2. Thanks for the ideas Stetson - I’ve seen and use a round hole in the corner for 90 degree turns and it works well. I’ll see if it will work with rounded corners too. It may actually just be my stitching technique so I’ll have to reevaluate that too.
  3. Hello All - I’ve been trying to clean up my stitching and I am having difficulty getting a nice stitch line around a tight curved corner (~1/2” radius) At 7 spi (lower stitch lines) I think it looks fine but at 8 spi (upper stitch lines) it just looks like a continuous line around the corner. I’ve used the 2 prong chisel and I’ve also used a single flat awl to try to come up with a nice looking stitch around a curve but not really satisfied. The placement of two stitch holes is driving me crazy! Any pointers?
  4. Wickett Craig Harness Quality?

    I heard that the yield of W&C sides are on the lower side but I just received my order of Buck Brown Traditional direct from the factory yesterday and it was beautiful. First time ordering from W&C and it was pretty painless. From the phone call to receiving it took 12 days. Note that when all is said and done, it is actually more expensive to order direct from W&C then through a vendor such as TheBuckleGuy when you add on splitting, paste, refinishing and shipping.
  5. Selling my Wuta 3.00 set (8 prong/2 prong). They were maintained well and are in perfect condition. A recent birthday present made them redundant. Paid over $100 for them. $80 bucks OBO includes CONUS shipping. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks for looking!
  6. And yet another splitter adjustment question.

    Thanks Bruce. Almost dialed in perfectly. I think I’m in the home stretch now.
  7. And yet another splitter adjustment question.

    Notching worked! I made a notch on the old blade that was 1/8 wide by 1/16 deep and that did the trick. Now I have clean cuts all the way through. Thanks Bruce. Any thoughts about that gap between the frame and crank assembly?
  8. And yet another splitter adjustment question.

    Bruce - thanks for taking the time to walk me through this. On another note (or maybe related) there is quite a gap between the frame and the gear assembly (see photo). Could you suggest how I would adjust to minimize the gap? I wonder if the cutting issue would get better if I properly adjusted to get rid of this gap. Thanks again.
  9. And yet another splitter adjustment question.

    I was able to give the old blade a pretty good edge and after I installed it I have the same issue. The leather splits well until the very end where it hangs up. i guess the next step is the notch it? Bruce, can you recommend a depth? Thanks!
  10. And yet another splitter adjustment question.

    Thanks Bruce, I was hoping you would chime in. The cutting edge of the blade that came with the splitter went strait across with no notches at the ends. It did allow the center bolt to attach and had a flat chisel grind. It was pretty dull so it didn’t split well and just shy of 2 7/8 so the adjustment knobs didn’t reach the blade. Ill try to sharpen and reattach the old blade to find out if it has the same issue and let you know. Thanks!
  11. So after a few hours of fine tuning my (new to me) American LS440, I think I’m almost optimized. The last bit that’s giving me trouble is that all the pieces gets stuck at the very end of the run. The last mm just doesn’t want to cut. A few threads down I see that someone had a similar issue but my blade is new and I believe positioned correctly: blade set 0.015 away from stop by feeler gauges. Bruce Johnson talked about a situation where notching the blade ends solved the issue but I just want to confirm and get other ideas before taking a drastic step. The center hole of this new blade doesn’t line up with the adjustment screw hole so I’m wondering if this screw issue goes hand in hand with my splitting issue. Any ideas are greatly appreciated!
  12. Original depth of 6 inch splitter blade

    On a scale of 1-10 I would put it at 9 with 10 being scary sharp so that’s pretty good. Thing for American splitter owners to know is that the center hole is off and can’t be used with the new blades from Pilgrim unless modified. Not a big deal but a little disappointing. I was told that they were exactly the same. Just in case this question comes up in the future, the size of the replacement blade is 3 inches deep.
  13. Original depth of 6 inch splitter blade

    I just purchased a replacement blade from Pilgrim. They are a bunch of knowledgeable folks there. Helpful and shipped the hollow ground blade the same day. They confirmed that the original depth of the blade to be >3 inches so it was about time I replaced it anyway. Ill use this as a template to make a hardened steel blade this way I’ll always have one ready to go.
  14. Hello All - Does anyone know the original depth of blades used on an American LS440 splitter (Landis 30). I just picked one up this weekend and it seems that the blade that came with the unit is just shy of 2 7/8" and barely touches the adjustment screws. I would like to get one fabricated locally out of treated O1 steel. Much appreciated!
  15. On my journey/quest to find a decent crank splitter I came across an American LS440 splitter at about full price. I am not concerned about the looks of the unit, and I will be sending the blade out to get hollow ground, but the top roller has some pitting that may transfer to the leather. Should I even consider these types of units? I can probably send the drum to get refaced but would it compromise the performance of the splitter? How thick are the walls on the rollers? Thanks!