JimTimber

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About JimTimber

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday

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  • Website URL
    simplethreadeddevices.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Minneapolis, MN, USA
  • Interests
    Firearms, hunting, fishing, kayaking, fabrication, welding, machining, and newly found interest in sewing

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    I'm as green as they get
  • Interested in learning about
    Sewing
  1. What's so bad about the neck and belly areas? I like the black one better too. They both look nice. The cant of the brown one looks a little shallow and for me would be harder to draw. I've got a 22 degree cant (often called the FBI cant) on my IWB and find that it's more comfortable for all day carry because it rides behind my hip bone when seated (4 O'clock position), and it's easier to draw. I can sleep on top of a 2011 in my holster - it's that comfy.
  2. Oh, I can relate to that too.
  3. It was his (the one he was keeping out of the 4 he'd bought), but that's good to know. I need to order some bigger thread and smaller needles. I got my belts figured out today, but needed to catch up on missed sleep so I haven't finished installing the motor control yet. Once that's done, she's ready to sew but I don't have any appropriate needles either so I won't be doing much with it until those arrive.
  4. That's nuts Wiz! I'm not sure I'd attempt something of that design. I follow what you're saying about opening up the throat for accepting the thicker material. That's good info for sure. I didn't touch any of the settings and it's possible the foot would've mashed it and gone over the bump if I'd tried, but I was already getting a lot of needle deflection from whatever reduced needle size he'd installed. I want to say it was a #24 (277 thread), and it wasn't poking straight while I was rapidly just trying to get used to the foot pedal, hunched over, and on one foot (I've had both knees carved on in the past 8 months and I'm not overly steady like that just yet). I also fed that wad of webbing in as my first stitches. I should've started with the doubled up bit and added to it, but I also was most curious how sewing that much meat would feel. It worked great! Now that I know how the hook interfaces with the needle scarf, I'm even more impressed that it didn't drop any stitches despite the needle being sent into the bottom plate at a leftward angle.
  5. I could've gotten cheaper pulleys, but these will add more mass to my flywheel. The surplus bearing shaft was just a little too short so I got creative and fixed it. I still need to make my bracket and get it mounted. This'll go under my 211G with the servo. Ag gear reducers are way overbuilt (mine's way overbuilt too, that's a huge fan bearing with a 3/4" shank) and will have a lot of input loss from the oil bath. Not as bad as a worm drive, but not as good as a typical ball bearing jack shaft like everyone uses for sewing machine reducers. You're going to need 2 pulleys with any gearbox you choose just to adapt it. The bearing I bought was $6. Sometimes buying something specific is cheaper than adapting something that's free.
  6. Cast iron has a lot of graphite in it. You can lube when tapping, but it's usually not detrimental if you don't. It's a nice video. How do you like the guide now that you have it?
  7. This webbing is the densest stuff I've ever seen. The 441 will go through it as fast as I'm comfortable with. When I saw the pics of sewing phone books, I realized there's really nothing I can hit it with that'll do more than break a needle or maybe nick the hook if it goes real wrong. Keep your fingers out of the way - they're probably not too much of a challenge either. It's an inch at the folds, and the foot didn't want to walk up it, but I have no idea how the guy had his set up (this was done on his he'd assembled, mine was in the factory sealed boxes). I need a shorter belt before I can put mine under power.
  8. I bet Uwe's extended lever is just plain easier to use even without the guide. I'll have to check my bits to see if anything's close enough to 10mm. I got a Keestar 441 yesterday and almost have it ready to sew.
  9. Worm drives don't move too well in reverse (meaning movement applied to the output shaft rather than the input shaft). It'll be like your brake is locked on all the time unless you're actually using the motor under power to turn the flywheel. I would not recommend one of those for this application. It'll be a nightmare to sew with.
  10. The logistics just didn't work out for me. 4 days on the road is a no-go. Good luck with the sale!
  11. Is the drop down guide better than the bed mounted one?
  12. Is this still available?
  13. Thanks! After getting one side done, I discovered something - 2 is going to be heavy. lol I'm going to make this one into a pouch for hunting and will revise the pieces I have cut for the other one into a more traditional hull bag with ammo pouch.
  14. Thanks! I'm pretty excited to get the speed reducer going in the next few days. The servo motor runs about a stitch a second at the slowest now, and should be dropped down to a stitch every 3 seconds like some of the other members have mentioned theirs do. Being able to crawl and then run (with the top speed on the servo bumped up) will really make this old Singer a joy to work with.
  15. You'll get more height out of using the foot lift instead of the lever behind the needle. Like Floyd said, you should be able to feed that in without any adjustments at all.