TBigLug

Members
  • Content count

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About TBigLug

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 05/09/1982

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Munith, MI
  • Interests
    Working draft horses, dirt farming, construction, woodworking, truck driving, etc.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Holsters (eventually, lol)
  • Interested in learning about
    Holsters, belts, scabbards, gun sleeves, etc.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Google
  1. Pretty basic. Started with raw veg tan leather. Wiped down with deglazer on a towel. Immediately applied mahogony dye with a tack sponge going left to right, top to bottom then top to bottom, right to left to cover from all directions. Let dry 30 min then on with stitching. Normally I punch my stitch holes before dying but I got in a rush last night.
  2. Last pic. Could have stood to be another 1/4 inch longer but it works for me. I like my holsters open ended anyway.
  3. Built it for my wife's short barrel G&G. Definitely better stitched than my adapter. Ised chisels and thicker thread. Mahogony stain. 8-9 oz leather. Bag kote. Didn't turn out too bad. Had no pattern so I started fully from scratch on this one, lol.
  4. Leather Strop

    Sounds like a good teason to make another one someday.
  5. I saw those, where can I find an oblong punch that is wider, say a 1/4 or 1/2 inch instead of the 1/8 or smaller I see mostly? I'm using a hybrid, I use the chisels to mark my holes then finish off with an awl. I don't pound all the way through with the chisels because it was opening my holes up too much and deforming the leather on my two layers. I should probably go back to just hammering through until I get better with my awl. It rides good. I haven't got to range test it yet but it feels great. Holds it down low enough I can clear that long 8" barrel without looking like the Joker and pulling it above my head to draw it, lol.
  6. I made a scabbard!

    Wet it down with sponge until it turns darker, wait until the surface goes back to original color but leather still feels cool to the touch. Stamp away. That's an abbreviated process but that's how I've been told. Start on some scrap to practice as well.
  7. Also if I had it to do over I would make the main slot narrower and the belt slots a little narrower as well.
  8. So I recently got in to black powder revolvers. That in turn is what got me into leather working again. The first gun I bought was an 1851 Navy that came with a holster. I quickly discovered the belt loop was way to small to go over my gun belt. Turns out it was designed to work with a belt style called bandolero. I decided instead of making a new bandolero style belt I would build an adapter for my current belt. I wasn't able to find one for sale and figured, what the heck. I got leather, let's see what happens. I used two layers of 5-7, mostly for stitching practice. I still for the life of me cannot get the backside of my stitch holes to line up. I think it just boils down to taking my time. I need to build a taller stitching pony. I'm 6'5 and have to get super hunched over to use the one I have now. I dyed the outside burgundy to test out some shading, not to match the holster. Oiled with neetsfoot, finished with my neetsfoot/ beeswax mix. Looks like it will work fine. Does anyone have an idea for cutting the slots better? The belt slots I punched eaxh end with my 5/16 maxi punch then layed my ruler along the top and bottom to cut out. Didn't go good. Bottom slot I didn't have a 1/2 punch for ends so I had to trace ot out, make my straight cuts then havk, chisel, cuss and carve to get out the rounded ends. Went even worse. Super hosed that one. Open to ideas. I'm not sure if a strap punch will go through multiple layers without deforming the top. Or do you punch from back side?
  9. I made a scabbard!

    Still looks good. I like imperfect leather goods anyway. Shows it was built by a real person not stamped on a machine.
  10. An idea for a dog collar

    That's a cool design. Outside the box meets traditional, good job.
  11. Leather Strop

    The flesh side seems to work the best for me to start on then finish off on the grain side. I could probably skip right to the grain side but this way I have options.
  12. Leather Strop

    I needed to put together a stropping board. Found a chunk of 2x3, cut a 2" strip of leather 24" long, glued one 12" piece flesh side out, other 12" piece grain side out, found a pair of 1" strips mounted them the same on the sides. All of it contact cemented to the wood. Now I have rough and smooth out surfaces in 2" for my blades and 1" for my awls and edgers. Rub on some rouge and away we go.
  13. Dog Collar

    I tried to get a couple pictures but he's terrible at focusing for pictures, lol. His neck measurement is 24" right on the nose. When he stands on his back feet he can look my 5'3 wife right in the eyes. Super smart, super protective dog. I raised him to do one thing, protect my wife. He does that job superbly.
  14. Got my latest leather project done. 2 layer all hand stitched dog collar for Barney. Used an old brass buckle and D ring off of one of our old horse halters. Gives it the antique look but the strength of new. I blew the lining up of a bunch of stitches on the rear but you won't see them when it's on a 200 lb Great Dane St. Bernard cross anyway, lol. First time doing a long line of stitching on ome item. Lots of room to improve. The decision to dye it mahogony was made after the pieces were glued together so the natural color shows arond the D ring. Holds some sentimental meaning to me. The hardware came off some old halters that my grandfather used for years on our draft horses. Hence the rust and tarnish patina.
  15. Leather Carving Tool List

    This was the chart I used to help in the conversion from old to new number area. Craftool Conversion Chart.pdf