VabaX

Members
  • Content count

    41
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About VabaX

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    VIC, Aus
  1. Thread getting dirty, how to avoid?

    Hmm, I see. I've had absolutely zero experience with laser cutters, but they sound pretty mad. So you laser cut, then dye, then resolene? or do you dye and resolene and then laser cut? (thus leaving the holes un-resolene'd?). Either way, first question; is the colour/tint of the discoloration in the thread actually consistent with the colour dyes that you use? eg, is the discoloration black/grey when you use black dye, medium brown when you use medium brown dye, etc? Just to rule out the possibility that the burned holes could be causing it, thats all. If you cant be sure, mabybe follow your normal process on a test item, but simply DONT dye at all, and see if it still gets discoloured. If so, you know it's not the dye. Second: I know waxed thread is generally the standard for this hobby, but i actually dont use it, and I dont' even wax my own thread either. I stitch with completely unwaxed poly thread, and as i said, i dont have any problems with discolouration with the exception of my own dirty, sweaty hands. If the waxed thread you're using is one of those very heavily waxed ones that looks like you could just about wax your car just with a bundle of the thread, then I wouldnt be surprised if the wax was picking up some contaminants, but I couldnt give you a definitive answer on that. Could be worth testing it out, even irrespective of whether the thread is to blame or note. trying different products etc is the only way to improve what you do.
  2. sewing speed

    Never done a belt myself, but i'm doing a full sized compendium at the moment, and I'm feeling the pain. I've got just over 500 stitches in total, and doing it all on the one thread. doesnt help that i probably started with too much thread, so its a bit of a ridiculous amount to pull through each hole, but the last couple times i've dont largish items i've started with too little thread, and only made it to the end by the skin of my teeth . maybe once i eventually finish it, i'll let you know how long it took
  3. Thread getting dirty, how to avoid?

    I'm not exactly sure what your usual process/ order of steps is, but I've never had this issue, and I build my pieces as follows: Cut out the pieces Edge creasing on edges of card pockets burnish edges of pieces like card pockets Dying - using airbrush coat all pieces in resolene - one normal coat and then a second light pass once the first has soaked in glue pieces together punch stitching holes and then stitch burnish final/main edges of item As far as I see it, there are 2 main things to note about the way i do it that may explain why i've never had this problem, the first being, as Tom suggested above, the order in which the steps are done, and secondly, the fact that I do my dying with an airbrush, and so only a very thin amount of dye makes its way into/onto the leather in the first place, potentially meaning that there is far less (or none at all) 'unset' dye sitting on the leather. Certainly, after applying the resolene, any small amount of 'unset' excess dye becomes captured within the resolene as it cures. I do plenty of items using feibings black, navy blue, dark chocolate, etc, dyes, and even with the brightest of white threads never have any issues with the thread getting dirty, with the exception of when the dirtiness is caused by my own hands (i wear gloves whenever it looks like this may be the case)
  4. Well, I just use a set of sharpened pricking irons as if they were chisels, and my stitching looks great imho you get the significant slant and the narrow opening of the irons/awl combo without having to mess around with an awl, and the benefit of needing to do nothing more than keep going in a straight line keeping the iron vertical to get perfect holes like with chisels. only works with the right set of irons ( i use wuta, would probably work even better with KS) and on thin items (I have done up to 4 layers of kangaroo, but I couldnt say exactly how thick it was. would have been between 3-4mm)
  5. Holy crap man, 2 layers of 7-8 would like a light weight powerlifting belt. I do my belts out of one strap of ~9 ounce, and they're pretty solid belts
  6. Are any of their pre-cut straps thin enough to be used as a lining? you wouldnt want to end up with a 6mm thick belt...
  7. I might have to pick one of them up too. Do you use an awl as well? I have a set of the Wuta 3.38's and 3.85's, and they're narrow enough that I can punch all the way through up to about 3.5mm thick (after sharpening the prongs), so I never use an awl. Just wondering if that would still work if I go down to the 3.0's
  8. Very nice. I'm currently using the same sized thread, but 3.38mm spacing. I guess i'll need to step it down a level if I want to make mine look that fine. Do you use a heated edge creaser?
  9. Absolutely beautiful mate. Whats the stitching spacing/thread size?
  10. sourcing string cutter/beveler in NZ/AUS

    Hmm, yes, I should think that's likely the case. Possibly some liquids too, but tools etc would be 100% fine, unless your customs have some kind of weird kind of product-destruction fetish lol
  11. sourcing string cutter/beveler in NZ/AUS

    Im in Aus, and i get most of my tools from Birdsall, they have a pretty large range of stuff, and they're much better priced than Scamdy (read: Tandy). Not sure if they have exactly what you're after, 'cos I cant tell what it actually is that you're after, but go have a look. They're based in Sydney.
  12. what method of dying did you use, and what sealer?
  13. Neatsfoot oil is very cheap. There are a few other types of oils, but they're all just as obscure as Neatsfoot is, so you'd still have to buy them specially for this purpose. Other oils like olive etc will go rancid, and wont 'cure' or 'settle' into the material properly. same reason as why you dont use those vegetable oils for oiling an axe handle or a tabletop, etc. Also, dont use mineral oils either, as that will start to degrade the leather and the stitching. Just get small bottle of neatsfoot or mink oil (should be easily less than $10). you'll find it at any leather supplies retailer. And as I said, a proper finish like resolene ontop to actually seal the leather, to lock in the oils and to block out any other contaminants that will make it go grubby.