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Found 153 results

  1. Dyeing technique

    I’ve tried to search the net to avoid asking, but now I must. How does one get theb pooled/woodgrain/streak effect in dyeing or staining?
  2. Hi everyone, This is my first post here on the forum, so I apologize if I didn’t put this in the right place. Sorry for the length, I just want to give all the info I can to get the best advice. Thanks in advance for your time! I recently picked up a side of matte-ish black Horween Essex for a custom tote order. The tote was made and shipped and I started using the rest of the side for a crossbody bag with an alligator flap. I checked in yesterday with the tote customer to make sure she was happy and she said she was, but she’d noticed that the color was rubbing off on her white pants. She didn’t have this problem with her first tote from me last year and I’ve never had this problem in the 3 years I’ve been working with Essex so I was surprised. Out of curiosity, I went over to the alligator and Essex bag that I just finished up and rubbed it with a scrap of light colored T-shirt and sure enough quite a bit of color came off. Obviously, I’m concerned that not only does a customer have a tote that’s leaving color on her clothes, but in the meantime I have just finished an expensive, fairly time consuming hand-stitched bag (my first using alligator) that’ll be rubbing on someone’s shoulder and hip. I can’t have it leaving big black marks on someone’s clothes. I wouldn’t even try and sell it if I know that’s a possibility. Now that the bag is done, what can I do to try and seal it? The edges are all painted with Vernis edge paint so I’m nervous about getting any kind of solvent on them and having that turn into a big mess. I tried buffing the whole bag with a soft cloth to remove excess color, but the color transfer hasn’t stopped. I thought about using Resolene, but I’m concerned about (a) being able to apply it consistently and not having it gum up since it’s all finished and 3-D and not an easy flat surface and (b) won’t it make the matte black really look shiny and plastic-y? I liked the way it looked before with the soft finish. It made the gray alligator flap pop. Lastly, does it work well on leathers with soft-medium tempers. I’ve used it on heavy veg tan work but not this kind of thing. I can’t afford to experiment with stuff that “might” work, because if it works on a flat scrap and not on the finished 3-D bag, the whole thing’s wasted. Is there any way to salvage it? I loved the way it turned out and would really appreciate any advice. I’d also like to be able to help the tote customer so she’s not stuck with a bag that ruins her clothes. She’s in a different state, so if you have a product in mind that she could buy separately and apply as a non leather worker that’s even better. Thanks again! -Hannah
  3. Had a buddy that found a deal on a $350 pair of shoes for $35, they just didn't match his wardrobe so asked me if i'd take a crack at 'em...here's the result. https://imgur.com/a/6LQd18z
  4. Hi guys! Regarding using acrylic top coat for coating parts of my leather bag, would there be a safety issue? Im using Zelikovitz Acrylic Top Coat in Satin finish. It clearly says Toxic on the warning label. I understand this could mean the fumes while applying it as it does have a strong smell. I have a toddler around and I am concerned of heavy metal exposure because of the coating in some parts of the bag. With regards to it being on some parts in the bag that I routinely touch, would there be a safety issue with skin absorption with the dried up acrylic coat on the leather? thank you!
  5. Hello everybody, i have a problem. I am using fiebing pro dye chocolate and i dont know why it's getting grey color instead of chocolate. It's look like this, each photo is made on different leather.
  6. Should I dye or paint?

    Hello everyone. I am a new leather worker and I am going to be starting a big project soon. I am planning on making a leatherbound journal for a gift. With this journal, I shall have a border and details carved/pounded in. I would like the journal to be black and the details to be red, however I am not sure how I should go about coloring the details. If I dye the details first and then do the base, I'm worried the black would sink in to the details, so I'm a bit wary about that tactic. If I paint the details, first I'd need to know the type of paint but then I'd also need to know how natural it will look. I also am unsure what I should use to seal the dye for each idea. This shall be on vegetable tanned leather. If anyone has any advice, it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks so much for your time reading this.
  7. I am making a heat shield for my motorcycle, I have my pieces cut out and dyed. After I got this far, I was like "Should I have glued my two layers of 4 oz veg tan leather before dying? When do I add the satin sheen?" I plan on gluing it down then stitching around the edge. I just want to make sure with my next project to do it in the correct order. TYSVM!
  8. I am getting back into leatherworking now that my kids are getting older. I feel like there are some things I've forgotten, and/or I'm unsure that my old methods are acceptable to me now. Attached is a picture of bracelets I'm making. I am using fiebring dye with those little applicators that come with them and in small packs (a white puff on a little metal rod). I'm thinking that at the very least, they could be a little wider for my wider products, so I'm swiping over the leather one time. I'm reading now that some of you dilute the dye and dip for a better coat, so if you do that, how do you lay it out to dry or hang it without marring the product? I suppose I could apply some sort of resist in the letters? So, after it dries, I'm using Fiebring sheen for the finish, which is a flexible acrylic. I feel like I am wasting/spilling/soaking more of the sheen into the cloth than actually gets on the leather. Does the type of fabric I use make a difference? I also find that it pulls more of the dye off even if I've already rubbed the leather with a wet cloth. Am I doing something wrong? I used to use a spray but I don't remember what it was and I'm not sure I want to use something that might be more toxic and require a mask. What are my options for a good finish? PS. I really wish the reds were less pink! It's a beautiful color but it annoys me that I can't get true red
  9. Clean antiquing/highlighting

    So I've never been satisfied with the amount of control I have when I'm putting highlight/gel antique on a project -- it settles into the crevices in a very patchy way, makes my cutlines look uneven in their depth, and it always seems to stain the raised surfaces much more than I'd like, even when it's been sealed with resolene before highlighting. I've attached a picture showing what I mean, how it just looks kind of muddy after it gets the highlight. I've only ever used Eco-Flo products for highlighting, but I'm considering ordering the Fiebings antique paste -- I'm thinking that maybe the paste wouldn't stain as quickly? (And also that Fiebings beats the pants off Eco Flo in every other product they make, why not this one too.) Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had suggestions -- how you prep your leather before highlighting, how you apply the highlight, what product to use, etc -- that might give me better results.
  10. Eco Flo or Fiebing

    Looking to make my first purchase of Dye to use on Veg Tan cowhide, have looked at old posts but there seems to be two opposite views on what to use Spirt v Water based Perhaps someone can explain the main difference between the two if any, and if there are any other good consistent makes available in the UK. Resolene, seems well spoken of for the final coat, would that be a good choice for me to start with or any other outstanding finishes
  11. I've got the six knife sheaths done. Started dying them last week and knocked over the bottle of Fiebing's Saddle Tan. Had enough to do two and more was on the way. The two from the old bottle are streaky. The dye went on or took unevenly. There's mottled patches. I've been trying to even it out, without much success, and they're already darker than I'd like them to be. The knifemaker is cranky and giving me grief. I don't know what to do. I've made a test patch with more of the dye, and I'm prepared to try sanding lightly with 600-grit (I saw that on here somewhere) and I've got some Barkeeper's Friend, but haven't tried that yet. I told the knifemaker today I thought the options were (1) over-dye them black (which the client doesn't want), or (2) start over and make new ones (and he wants to get paid sooner than that). I'll take pictures tomorrow -- too dark now. Thanks in advance.
  12. Oil and dyes

    Hello fellow leatherworkers. Recently I've been questioning myself into what is better, to oil before dyeing or after? I've been said that before dyeing so dye gets in nice and even and some tell me it's better after. And what could be the best to get an even dye? I've used sponge, dauber, brush and always seem to get blotches in some areas even if caution is used. Sometimes they look cool but others I feel the piece ends up not to my taste. I'm thinking on airbrushing the dye. Can I get your thoughts on this please? Thank you a lot! Joe.
  13. This was a rather simple thing to make, but I think it turned out really well, and I've actually found it to be really useful. If you want to know how to do this, click here to check out the video of me making it. Anyway, let me know what you guys think!
  14. I'm having a problem when dyeing leashes. The edges are very dark and the center of the strap is much lighter. Also around the slots it's soaking up a lot more dye. The back of the piece doesn't seem to be affected, just the grain side. I am running the straps through a small trough as in "dip-dyeing". I run it through three times and it's better, but as you can see, still not acceptable. I had this issue once before, and this time I burnished the edges first, to harden them up a bit, but it didn't seem to help at all. Any suggestions? I'm ready to go back to using a dauber. Also, dip dyeing takes a LOT of dye! Thanks, Jeff
  15. How do I prevent dye from rubbing off on clothes?
  16. How do I prevent dye from rubbing off on clothes?
  17. Hi, I have some vinegaroon that is about a year old. Its been stored in a mason jar. I tried a tester piece of leather and it worked fine and blackened the leather fairly quickly(2 minutes). I neutralized and applied neatsfoot oil while it was still damp. How long have you stored your vinegaroon. I have read a few stories on here about vinegaroon dyed pieces fading over time. I was wondering if anyone has ever applied a spirit black dye over vinegaroon. I would think it might add a deeper black to the occasional issue of the vinegaroon being a dark gray sometimes. I am guessing once the vinegaroon piece has been neutralized it should be ok to dye for the extra insurance that the piece stays a nice deep black? Thanks for any input!!
  18. Painting on dyed leather

    I am trying to find the best dye to paint on top of. I am using fiebings dye and painting on it with Angelus paints but it always takes more coats than I would like to cover. I have seen videos of people painting over they're dyed work with ease. Is there a trick to it?
  19. So I screwed up a piece and learned myself a lesson. I was making a fire fighters radio strap and forgot to stamp it. The dye was still wet so I wiped the area I needed to stamp with water stamped and then let dry. Polished it up after dye dried but the section I had stamped wouldn't shine was dull/flat. I figured at this point the piece was ruined anyway so I put resolene on it let it dry and tried to buff out the stamped area to no avail. So if your looking to get a flat look to your project wipe it down with water while the piece is still damp from dyeing. Happy little mistake
  20. I tried to search for this but only found one thing that wasn't really related. I was almost complete on making a simple wallet and dyed it red on the inside where the money and cards go and mahogany on the outside and then sealed it with beeswax/NFO. I noticed that I could see some of the red had bled through to the exterior giving the mahogany a pinkish hue. I then dyed the exterior mahogany again and it has dried with that metallic green tinge to it. Does anyone know why and what causes this to avoid it for the future and also if the piece can be salvaged now? I dyed the inside mahogany too. If I could get rid of the green it'd probably be fine but rubbing/buffing it only seems to polish the green! Ha! Anyone seen this before and know why and what to do about it? Thanks!
  21. Hello As a new member, I am not quite sure if this is the right place, but.... First off, let me start with a bit of a background info. I am by no means a professional leatherworker. My day job is prop making / replicating for films, theaters, reenactors etc. This includes doing some work on leather every now and then (wish I could do it for a living though). For past 4 years I've used the same supplier of leather and other leather working products just fine. But yesterday I ran into a problem I haven't faced ever before. As you can see from the attached picture, I was in the process of making some leather items for a project and moved on to dyeing the leather. Previously I have gotten desired results with just slapping the dye on, two layers and gotten a nice, even, smooth, reddish brown colour on the leather. This time after the first layer all my leather was looking like in the attached image. Blotchy etc., as if I had been using too much dye (which can't be the case). The thing is, like I said, for past 4 years I've gotten my leather and dye from the same supplier and I've had 0 problems with my process, so I am a bit at loss here. I've ended up wasting a good 100 euros worth of leather now and a days work so far which annoys me. Is this caused by grease or some other contaminant on the leather surface? Should I be cleaning my leather from now on before dyeing to avoid problems like this in the future? How to clean the leather? Any products to recommend or so? The leather dye I've used with great success until now is ROC Narusværte, Danish leather dye.
  22. Hi-lite stain running

    Hello, I made a few belts and i used Tandy hi-lite stain in the briar brown. The belts come out looking real good with the stamped parts darker in the creases, but when i applied tandy super sheen, the stain ran out of the creases and left black streaks across the belt. It was about 6 days between staining and putting on the top coat. I would really appreciate any help. Thank you.
  23. Hi leathercrafters I wonder what is the correct procedure. First oiling and than dying or first dying and than oiling. I usually use Fiebings proffesional oil dye. Thanks J.
  24. So tonight I was working on two separate notebook covers 5oz leather, one dyed turquoise and the other was grey(heavily diluted black dye) had both to the color I wanted. I wanted to dye the interior darker black for the grey and medium brown for the turquoise. The problem was the darker dye bled through to the front on both pieces. does anyone know how to prevent this?
  25. First of all, Im new to leather working. Been doing smaller things for a year or so. Recently i have interested myself into dying and finishes. Ive been trying out various spirit based dyes and right now my favorite is the Fiebings Professional Oil Dye. I get great results with this dye and it penetrates the leather well. However i recently acquired a natural colored leather side 1,5mm thickness. It seems to have a light finish applied to it. Ive tried to dye this leather but the color only penetrates a very little amount. By very little i mean that a nail scratch penetrates the color and the natural color is exposed. Ive tried removing the finish with both denatured alcohol and aceton, same result. Ive even tried sanded the leather with 240 grit still bad color penetrating. So obviously something is stopping the dye to soak in. Could the fibers on top be compressed in anyway? I want to learn why it is behaving this way regardless if it can be fixed or not. Ive tried dip dying still bad results. Color penetrates flesh side very well but stops when reaching "grain side layer" Appriciate any help!