trash treasure

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    nw florida

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    sewing machines
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  1. Singer 45k1 Restoration Decals

    If you decide to use decals, you might look for something like this : It's a special solvent type stuff, that softens the decal, and makes it "suck" down onto an irregular surface
  2. Adler 30-7 Leaf Spring

    HA! I was just about to post, and suggest this - Like leaf springs on a car ............
  3. Adler 30-7 Leaf Spring

    If you're willing to give a shot at making one, have you tried McMaster Carr ? They have spring steel in many sizes and thicknesses :
  4. Singer 307G2 Problem

    Have you tried this guy : I'm not sure, but he may be the guy I found a couple years ago, that was RE-MANUFACTURING linen cord belts for old Pfaffs, etc.
  5. need help choosing

    Also totally off topic, but not about the bars at least That photo of the 8 class machine - How did they control the speed when it was hooked up to a line shaft, like that one was set up for ? Was there a clutch they could feather ?
  6. How to Ship Consew 206RB5

    We drove this Adler about a 5 hr trip on a utility trailer - Part highway, and part not-so-nice roads. It was on casters - 2 good ratchet straps - NOT a light machine, and nothing moved a mm, nothing broke. Unless "someone else" is moving it for you, I wouldn't overstress - If you're paying someone to do it, then you can worry That must have been a rough trip, Colt !
  7. coats bonded poly thread

    I can't speak for their polyester, but we had a bad experience with some, supposedly bonded, nylon from Superior. It was 2 spools of black 138, and although sold as "bonded", would literally unravel in your hand, as it came off the spool. It also had a funny, "wrinkly" look to it. We asked for new thread, thinking it was just a bad lot or something - The 2 new spools they sent were the same way. It would start separating as it went through the machine tension - NOT good Just sayin'
  8. Sewing Machine Game.....

    OK, show and tell time - Here's a 111W155 I bought for $50, and finally got around to rebuilding, a bit over a year ago. It was in pretty rough shape, but came with a reasonable table and a truly massive Singer clutch motor. I replaced a lot of parts , new bearings, take up link, etc, etc, etc - It wound up costing a little more than the original $50 ;~) As you can see, it's been "modified" a little, with a nice 6" Browning sheave I found on e-bay for a couple bucks.The best part about the new pulley, is that it's grooved for a 3L belt, so the belt is exactly flush with the pulley edge, making it a comfortable handwheel. I covered the resulting "joint", between the machine and the new wheel, with a "sleeve" I machined - It attaches with a hidden set screw It has a 750w servo motor now, with a 2" pulley, and has a LOT of low end power, and excellent control - A pleasure to use. I also modified the table a little, cutting the left edge and hinging it, to save space . I also put it on wheels, so we can move it around, and use the big work table as an outfeed. We usually use it with V138 thread, mostly for heavy webbing, canvas, sailcloth, etc, but sometimes leather - It has sewn anything we've been able to fit under it, so far. And yes, I know it's green, but I had some green paint, and ............ We just refer to it now as the Green Machine That's what I got for today
  9. Adler Paint Polling

    Mine is GREEN ................ :~)
  10. Screwdivers

    Get a set of Chapman gunsmith screwdrivers - Wouldn't be without them :
  11. Something Different....a Singer 172K

    I had to go look this one up - The orientation of this machine is really strange :
  12. Needle hitting bobbin case

    Can you move the BUSHING that the hook shaft runs in ? On some machines, the bushing is held in place by a set screw, and you can shift it a bit forward or back.
  13. Singer 7-33

    OK - I guess this is Adler show and tell, now - Here's a couple photos of my Adler 20 -19 I believe I'm the third owner - The original owner bought it NEW, and used it to sew hair-on buffalo robes - It still had some brown fur caught up in the innards The second owner couldn't deal with it at all, and just parked it in a shed - and so now it's mine. The little light on it is interesting - The vintage woodworking machine people refer to those as "retirement lights" - They were made by Delta Machinery, for use on their drill presses and band saws - I've seen them go for $100+ on Ebay This is where I'm at with it - Actually a little further on than when this shot was taken - I've since cleaned and painted the handwheel, and polished the rim, and cleaned and re-furbed most of the parts - It's painted with Rustoleum "Verde Green" hammertone paint - I was hoping it would come out a little more "hammered" looking, but at least it's clean and shiny, now . As far as I can tell, the parts (good or bad) on it are all Adler - No Singer swaps - But I'm no expert, and if something wasn't marked, I couldn't necessarily tell, just by looking .......... Here is where I'm thinking to go with it - This is a German military issue Adler, on it's special stand. I have pretty limited space in the shop, and being so compact, this could work out very well, with some good casters - It's also pretty cool looking
  14. Singer 7-33

    I'm glad you're able to fix it without having to ream and fit - it's just more stuff to have to buy, and more work to do I'll see about some photos - I only work on it in fits and starts, and it's still got a ways to go - I'm just spread too thin, I guess. I agree with Yetibell - The pinned arm doesn't seem like all that secure of a connection, for such a heavy duty machine, and the Adler is even more massive than the 7-33. But it is what it is, and you just have to try and do the best repair you can.
  15. Singer 7-33

    I'm restoring an Adler 20, and encountered the same issue, on the OTHER end of that rocker shaft. In my case the pin wasn't broken, but very worn, and the hole in the shaft was wallowed out - You can see the end of the old pin in the photo The result was a lot of lost motion -There was a set screw (on the towel) through the arm, but that didn't help, as it just slipped on the shaft. Anyway, the pin was just a standard #2 taper pin - I bought the next size (#3), and used a taper pin reamer to size both the arm and the shaft in one go - It only needed a few thou. taken out , and just the narrow end of the #3 pin tightened everything up nicely. I also machined a little dimple in the shaft for the set screw - It's all good now. Just make sure the shaft hole is OK before you put it back together - Try the new pin in the hole - It should be a PERFECT fit. If the hole shows any "ovaling", or shows some space around the pin anywhere, you probably need to ream the whole shebang.