trash treasure

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    nw florida

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    sewing machines
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  1. OK - I guess this is Adler show and tell, now - Here's a couple photos of my Adler 20 -19 I believe I'm the third owner - The original owner bought it NEW, and used it to sew hair-on buffalo robes - It still had some brown fur caught up in the innards The second owner couldn't deal with it at all, and just parked it in a shed - and so now it's mine. The little light on it is interesting - The vintage woodworking machine people refer to those as "retirement lights" - They were made by Delta Machinery, for use on their drill presses and band saws - I've seen them go for $100+ on Ebay This is where I'm at with it - Actually a little further on than when this shot was taken - I've since cleaned and painted the handwheel, and polished the rim, and cleaned and re-furbed most of the parts - It's painted with Rustoleum "Verde Green" hammertone paint - I was hoping it would come out a little more "hammered" looking, but at least it's clean and shiny, now . As far as I can tell, the parts (good or bad) on it are all Adler - No Singer swaps - But I'm no expert, and if something wasn't marked, I couldn't necessarily tell, just by looking .......... Here is where I'm thinking to go with it - This is a German military issue Adler, on it's special stand. I have pretty limited space in the shop, and being so compact, this could work out very well, with some good casters - It's also pretty cool looking
  2. I'm glad you're able to fix it without having to ream and fit - it's just more stuff to have to buy, and more work to do I'll see about some photos - I only work on it in fits and starts, and it's still got a ways to go - I'm just spread too thin, I guess. I agree with Yetibell - The pinned arm doesn't seem like all that secure of a connection, for such a heavy duty machine, and the Adler is even more massive than the 7-33. But it is what it is, and you just have to try and do the best repair you can.
  3. I'm restoring an Adler 20, and encountered the same issue, on the OTHER end of that rocker shaft. In my case the pin wasn't broken, but very worn, and the hole in the shaft was wallowed out - You can see the end of the old pin in the photo The result was a lot of lost motion -There was a set screw (on the towel) through the arm, but that didn't help, as it just slipped on the shaft. Anyway, the pin was just a standard #2 taper pin - I bought the next size (#3), and used a taper pin reamer to size both the arm and the shaft in one go - It only needed a few thou. taken out , and just the narrow end of the #3 pin tightened everything up nicely. I also machined a little dimple in the shaft for the set screw - It's all good now. Just make sure the shaft hole is OK before you put it back together - Try the new pin in the hole - It should be a PERFECT fit. If the hole shows any "ovaling", or shows some space around the pin anywhere, you probably need to ream the whole shebang.
  4. Those are really interesting needle points - Shaped like tiny axe heads - To chop their way into the leather ?
  5. We usually buy marine canvas, sailcloth, thread, hardware, etc, from Challenge . Call and ask for Becky - Have her send you the catalogs : Also Bainbridge for some hardware - Used to be they "preferred" that you order in larger quantities, but not too bad lately : Also Dimension Polyant, for some colors of sailcloth - We usually deal with Moose, at their US warehouse: Address: 78 Highland Dr, Putnam, CT 06260 Phone: (860) 963-7413
  6. Ha ! I just knew I'd spark controversy with that :~) Seriously, I feel your inner torment - I'm in the middle of restoring an Adler 20, so I am no one to talk .............
  7. From the picture, it looks like the needle bar stays vertical, and shifts back and forth on those rails, following the shuttle . I'd love to see one in action - Must be like watching a locomotive :~)
  8. I had to go look that one up : No one in their right mind really needs this machine ............No
  9. If you're going to be working with large enough sails to need 138 for seaming, then you should look for something with a BIG bobbin, whatever you get - Zig zag uses it up fast, and you'll be constantly changing bobbins in the middle of seams otherwise. And unlike some leather work, you can't just get away with lighter thread in the bobbin, for sailmaking ;~) We have used V92 in the 107, but usually just sew with 69 in it, as we mostly sew smaller sails.
  10. We had a Pfaff 438 at one point : A lovely machine - More arm space, wider zig zag throw, and reverse, but if I were to be honest, I'd say that it really didn't have a better stitch quality than the 107 we have. Pfaff = Expensive parts, though ........
  11. Even if you had 220V available at your place, you're probably going to want to swap the motor on that one - The open fuse box shows that the motor is 3 phase! You might / could talk down the price, based on that alone. OTOH, you could set it up with a VFD, and have speed control that way, but still MIGHT want a reducer. OTOOH, it looks about average condition for most of the machines we buy :~)
  12. Hi -

    I saw in an old post of yours,that you have some copies of old manuals - Including one for the Adler 20. Is it the same one that's available from the Adler site ? That one is mostly in German, and difficult to read.

    If the manual you have is a different one , could you please let me know.


    1. Singermania


      sorry Tom, haven't had time to get on here lately, will have to take a look at it, I suspect though its the same one.


  13. If you can't take it apart, and you can't bake it, you could take it to an auto body shop, and have them spray it with some black 2 part polyurethane enamel . Not authentic japanning, but It would probably look pretty good, and the finish would certainly be hard enough.