trash treasure

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About trash treasure

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    nw florida

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  1. Anyone recognize this machine

    7 Class - Very Large
  2. Singer 91K5 Glove Sewing Machine Parts

    Have you thought about trying to get a looper from one of these Chinese glove machines, and seeing if it might fit, or at least be adapted ? The Chinese often copy and modify existing designs for their sewing machines, and who knows, maybe the looper is the same - Stranger things have happened ........
  3. Changing out a handwheel with a motor pulley

    It doesn't have to be painful if you use the right pulley - Here's the pulley I used on our Singer 111 - It's a Browning sheave that's specifically made for a 3L belt, which means that the belt rides at the top of it's groove, and forms a nice comfy surface for hand wheeling
  4. Simple Singer 241 large hand/balance pulley Mod

    I think he used the shaft collar, in his first link, as a sleeve - It had a 15mm bore and 25mm OD - Pretty close fit for a 1" bore pulley. Oops ! - It looks like already answered - Sorry
  5. Uwe is 100% right - We use a #21 needle with 138 thread, for sewing webbing - But that's relatively soft, and the knot buries fine - For leather, you want something larger yet .
  6. Not leather

    With a machine that heavy, I don't know how much head tilting you'd do anyway - I have an Adler 20, and the normal set up has the machine submerged in the table to the bed top level, and hung by steel straps, about 2½" - 3" down under the table top. At 200+ lbs, you'd need to lift it out, or crawl underneath, like servicing a car
  7. Pfaff Timing Belt

    Thank you, Uwe ! This is very similar to the way my machine is set up - I will check this out, and see what's what :~) It is a mystery why this info is not in the manual - Maybe they figure you're just supposed to know.
  8. Pfaff Timing Belt

    This is NOT about a leather sewing machine, but it IS about industrial machine adjustment - I recently picked up a couple Pfaff 463"s with tables & motors, for our shop - Cheap - Just plain high speed garment machines. One had a broken timing belt, and the other (in better shape overall) had a "newer" replacement belt installed. So, I downloaded the service manual, and got the one with the belt set up, but there is an obvious problem - Although the hook / needle timing is on, and it picks up and makes a stitch, the tensions are so far out of whack, that the normal adjustments of the upper and bobbin tension, and take up spring make no difference. At this point, I'm thinking that the upper and lower shafts may be out of sync, and as a result the take up arm is not acting at the right time. I know that Uwe said, in a recent thread, about timing the take up with the thread passing the furthest point of the hook, but I don't know if I want to trust that, as I think the hook may have been moved enough to compensate, somewhat, for the shafts being out. Also, this machine has a rather complicated bobbin case opener, timed to the hook, and the adjustments for that were not quite able to be set in the range the manual shows - So, I'm wondering ....... So - Is there some basic way to check the synchronization of the shafts ? There is NOTHING about timing belt replacement for this machine in the service manual, NO marks on the bed or pulleys, and nothing anywhere I can find on the web
  9. Zig Zag Machine Advice

    Another one to add to the list : Pfaff 438 - Really nice machines http://www.ebay.com/itm/PFAFF-ZIG-ZAG-438-sewing-machine-Industrial-HEAVY-DUTY-Used-/162694648820?hash=item25e15b53f4:g:m8IAAOSwQm9Z0lex
  10. Singer 111W155 Rehab

    Those drive screws can be a bear - Especially when they're holding a fragile raised relief badge like the singer one. I've had pretty good luck with just carefully masking the badges - Scrape the paint off around the badge first, and then mask the badge with painters tape, carefully burnishing the tape over the edge, and trimming with an Exacto knife or razor blade. If you want the badges off, then start with a small straight punch with a good crisp, square tip, and a small hammer. Hold the punch at a low angle against the side of the screw head, and tap the screw a couple times, from different directions, sideways - This will usually loosen it up in it's hole. Then you'll need to get under the edge of the screw head (or the badge itself) with something sharp and sturdy enough to pry with - A small sharp wood chisel will work. Maybe a sharpened putty knife, etc, to start with - Creativity helps here :~) If you need to get new drive screws, you can find them at McMaster Carr - Their stainless ones are kind of attractive ...... Be patient, and good luck
  11. What about this machine?

    NOT a Singer - It's a Japanese 15 class clone. OK domestic machine, but as other's say, not even remotely close to industrial.
  12. Singer 45k1 Restoration Decals

    If you decide to use decals, you might look for something like this : https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Setting-Solution-Microscale-Industries/dp/B0006O9K5Q It's a special solvent type stuff, that softens the decal, and makes it "suck" down onto an irregular surface
  13. Adler 30-7 Leaf Spring

    HA! I was just about to post, and suggest this - Like leaf springs on a car ............
  14. Adler 30-7 Leaf Spring

    If you're willing to give a shot at making one, have you tried McMaster Carr ? They have spring steel in many sizes and thicknesses : https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-spring-steel-sheets/=18t37pq
  15. Singer 307G2 Problem

    Have you tried this guy : http://www.sewingmachineparts.net/timing_belts.html I'm not sure, but he may be the guy I found a couple years ago, that was RE-MANUFACTURING linen cord belts for old Pfaffs, etc.