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About alyshae

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    leather, horses, writing

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    mostly tooling and deerskin
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    Googling anything about leather!
  1. Fiebings cordovan is much darker than on the swatch. I love it for dying edges but would recommend diluting it got all over dyeing
  2. I contacted fiebings after accidentally mixing oil and spirit dues and they said it's no problem, mix away
  3. Thanks Grampa Joe but I meant how to secure just the drops when dismounted so they don't drag or get stepped on
  4. I am doing my first pair of shotgun chaps with a heel drop and would like some opinions on the best way to fold them up when off the horse. Snaps, Velcro, button? Thanks in advance
  5. I have a Stohlman guide to dyeing, and when doing multi-tone pieces he suggets having a piece of scrap available and always going dye - touch to scrap - apply to piece. This allows the first "burst" of dye to go on the scrap. There was also a post on here some time ago where a fellow said he had accidentally left a little dish of dye uncovered overnight, and it thickened on him. He used it anyway and found out that it was great for small areas - the thickness reduced the spread.
  6. Dyeing finished leather like that can give weird results. Tandy flyers have shown them using their Waterstains on white deerskin, but I haven't tried it. I do know their claim of bleedproof seems to be holding up for my tooled leather stuff, so that might be an option worth exploring. The other is to use this lace for something else and just invest in a properly dyed skin / spool of lace in the color he wants, if there isn't a sentimental reason for using this particular hide.
  7. Funny, I just emailed Feibings this week about the oil dye, after I accidentally mixed the dark brown oil dye with the medium regular before noticing one was oil dye. They are compatible and can be mixed, happily. They said the dye material ( I guess he meant pigment) is oil based, hence the name, but the solvent is pretty much the same as the regular dye.
  8. Thanks for the quick reply, gentlemen. That's what I thought the answer would be, but figured it would be worth asking as it would save me some time and her some bucks! I had seen both done, but pics on-line don't always give enough detail to determine the quality of the product and we all know price isn't always an indicator, either.
  9. Hi all. I'm doing my first set of chinks in which the fringe is sewn on, not cut in. She also wants spots along the stitch line. I'm curious as to whether the spots would go through both pices as an added anchor or be set in the fringe leather before stitching? If they go through, would one stitch line be enough enough in addition to the priongs? I hand stitch. Thanks!
  10. I'll flex the leather a few times during drying, too. Seems to help. I also use the resolene 50/50 on bridles and chap yokes and it holds up well. I can track it since I ride at the stable where most of my stuff is being used.
  11. I use the 50/50 dilution and love it. I apply with a piece of sponge, and immediately after I whisk a dry end of the sponge very lightly and quickly, back and forth to even it out and pick up any thicker areas. Do two - three coats like that and I've never had streaking or tacky areas since I started. Works for me
  12. Just thought I would update this post regarding the chinks, 2 years later. Hubby loved them, and so did the wife as she took to wearing them even though they were too long on her. I just made her a properly fitted pair which she told me she has worn at full day cow-working clinics and doesn't even know she's wearing them. The hide adjusts for temperature more than most so even on hot days she wears them all day without really noticing, they are so comfortable. They aren't stretching, at least not noticeably. Full disclosure we don't have a lot of heavy brush here on the prairies but the hide is holding up beautifully. I'm beginning to think the rarity of them is more os a practical thing, as finding two large hides, with few holes, that match color and thickmess is a pain.
  13. Could you line the collar with a softer leather (oiled utility, for example) so the part touching her dog is soft but the main collar is the stronger stuff?
  14. In my experience the deertan is a bit thicker and a little less stretchy and soft than the deerskin. I think kip is goat instead of cow.
  15. Great advice from all, especially the fiberglass tape! I was also wondering about the clients definition of "oiling". When I first got into leather and decided to research it, I found several people advising to soak new bridles in oil overnight. Serious over-oiling could have produced the stretch and the appearance of dye running out of an undyed collar.