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About sfmiaw

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    Leather working (obviously)
  1. I do not have this particular model, I do have a 6" skiver that is a knock-off version of it. However, I can comment on the 6" skivers in general. While tapering strap ends is fine (1-2"), I have found that splitting/skiving anywhere close to 4-5" with these is VERY leather temper dependent. If you are using anything sort of mild to soft leather, then I have found that the 6" skivers will "resist" and stretch it out (this includes some tooling leather) which will ruin the texture and uniformity of your project. (or maybe my blade isn't sharp enough).IMO, it would be much easier if you just bought 2oz leather instead of splitting it, but otherwise it would depend on the firmness if the leather you are using.
  2. I'm a total noob compared to most of the guys on the board, but I have found that an edge guide does wonders for keeping straight lines, even with a change in thickness. Get a drop down edge guide if you can, it makes turning your work much easier.
  3. Thanks for responding Ferg, I considered filing a notch, but my estimations on where the needle punches the hole is still off. I'm sure with enough practice this will be a non-issue, but until then, I hate it when I ruin a perfectly good strap due solely to this issue. I think a cut-off needle foot would still move the material since the strap pieces have already been glued together, and the pressor foot is still there (smoothed with JB Weld so it doesn't mark the leather). I was just hoping that there was a commercial remedy available since my only metal cutting tool is a dremel. Thanks for replying Wiz, Can you post a pic of the feet that you mentioned? I will probably end up experimenting by grinding/cutting a spare needle foot. I'll let you all know how it goes. I imagine that my uses differ from most of the other members of this board, but it's always good to share.
  4. Hi everyone, I was wondering if there is a needle pressor foot available that is "stubby" or "short" (for walking foot machines), by which I mean that you can see the needle as it is puncturing the leather? I am having a hard time determining whether or not i need to make another stitch, or a half stitch at the point of my straps and it is very inconvenient to lift the feet to check on the needle position in the leather. I would rather buy one than try to saw my current needle foot in half. Thanks, Frank
  5. Thank you for the detailed response!
  6. Wow, thanks for the fast responses! I was hoping it was more cosmetic changes than structural. I found this gem sitting unused at a curtain-maker's back corner and got it for less than half the price of a -5. Now hopfully add a sewpro 500gr and a few dozen q-tips to clean out the dust and I'm good to go!
  7. Hi everyone! This site has some wonderful resources and some great contributors! I don't think I would have started my little leather sewing facination without your help, so for that, I thank you all! I recently lucked into a Consew 206rb-4 and I was wondering what the difference is between version 4 and 5? Also, if anyone happens to have a pdf manual for the Consew 206rb-4 or a link, I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks! Frank
  8. Gregg, Thank you so much for your reply. I do not forsee ramping it past hobby/small jobs anytime soon, so unless the 206rb-5 is at firesale prices, then I can get by with the CP206 for now. Frank
  9. Hi everyone, I'm considering the Consew CP206, 206rb-5 and Thompson pw-400 sewing machines for straight stitching veg tan and oil-tanned leather, up to 10oz (4-5mm). Basically I'm making leather watch straps and dog collars. I've done some searching on the site but my head hurts now from the effort so I thought I'd post to see if someone would be kind enough to help with some advice about my specific issues. I think I read somewhere that the Consew CP206 (walking foot portable) is a more modern version of the Thompson pw-400. Is that correct? If that is true, will both handle what I'm trying to do? Furthermore, will these machines take 3-cord linen (#92/#138 equivalent) or even 4 cord linen (#207)? If they are not nearly identical, then which machine would be more appropriate? Lastly, would I have to "modify" the feed dogs and walking feet if the leather marks easily? I know that the 206rb-5 is the better choice, but price-wise and space-wise, I would prefer the portable (~$400) if it can do the job. Thanks.