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About Alisdair

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  • Location
    Geneva, Switzerland

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Sporran making
  1. Which snap buttons?

    Typically, the first type is used for thinner and more flexible leathers. It has a less firm hold. The second type is used for thicker and stiffer leathers and has a very firm hold. If you use the second type with thinner leathers, you're probably going to distort the leather when opening whatever's being held together by the button, because it has such a firm hold. Conversely, if you use the first type with thicker and stiffer leathers, the two halves will often pop open by themselves when any movement or bending is involved.
  2. Flamery Mayer pricking wheel

    I don't think so...I think that the seller was a bit over-zealous in cleaning the brass, and cleaned part of the steel in the process. I'll just wait another 20 years or so for the colour of the steel to go back to normal!
  3. George Barnsley plough gauge

    Hi guys, I received this new-old stock George Barnsley plough guage. It's a beauty. Like all Barnsley tools, these are no-frills, high quality workman's tools. The steel of the knife has a lovely ring to it and will sharpen wonderfully well. I will spend the weekend polishing this up, smoothing over rough edges, etc...
  4. Flamery Mayer pricking wheel

    Just a photo from above, where you can see it's a bit bent - dunno in the previous owner used it to hammer a nail or to beat his goat, but it still works fine!
  5. Flamery Mayer pricking wheel

    Yep the Ball is screwed on in the opposite direction to the Vergez Blanchard ones. The Flamery Mayer stamp is on the front end:
  6. Flamery Mayer pricking wheel

    Hi Guys, I just scored this sweet Flammery Mayer pricking wheel. As I understand it, Flammery Mayer was a foreman at Blanchard, and took off one day with their designs and client list! Looking at this item, I can definitely see the Blanchard design in there.There are 5 nice wheels, and I'm looking to buy more- I reckon I'll buy a Vergez Blanchard size 6 and size 9 to complete this set (size 10, 12, 14, 16 + another).
  7. Tools maintenance

    Yep, your beeswax mix will work to create a barrier between the metal and the air.
  8. Tools maintenance

    Hi...the leathercare product I talk about here: fine on tools, too. If I have a bit left on a rag after doing my leather treatment, I'll give any tools lying about a quick wipe with it.
  9. French skivers

    Hi guys...I'm in the market for a good French skiver. Any thoughts on Barry King versus Horseshoe brand tools? Any other good candidates in that price range?
  10. Old stitching wheel with guide

    Yep, I'll probably have to have "fun" reducing their thickness, hand, as I don't have a workshop with grinders, etc.
  11. Old stitching wheel with guide

    Yes, as old as it is, this is still very functional and the guide is a brilliantly simple, but useful addition. I definitely would like to get a set of wheels made. Does anyone have any suggestions for this?
  12. Yep, by varying the turp to linseed oil ratio, you get something more or less liquid. I used raw linseed/flax oil...I've been told that the boiled stuff sometimes contains nasty additives.
  13. Tandy Round Knife Verses Le Prevo T162

    In addition to a beautiful Vergez Blanchard round knife, I have a Barnsley single head/quarter moon knife, which probably only cost me about 20 GBP: Once sharpened, it's a beauty!
  14. Hi Guys, So, having received a nice big block of beeswax, I spent a bit of time this weekend mixing up some leathercare product and saddler's wax/coad. The leathercare product can be used on leather, wood or shoes. It is a mix of 1/3 beeswax, 1/6 turpentine and 3/6 flax-seed oil. You melt the beeswax, then add the turpentine and flax-seed oil to the careful, it's highly flammable! But once you've done this, a pot of the stuff will last for years. With respect to the saddler's wax/coad, I use a 2/3 rosin to 1/3 beeswax mix. Crush up the rosin and melt it, then add in the beeswax...again this is highly flammable, so be careful! Once melted, pour the mix into a bucket of warm water. Gather into a ball and kneed it continuously. When it starts getting to the consistence of soft toffee, start "taffy-pulling" the stuff, over and over again. You have to do this, otherwise, the rosin and beeswax will separate again, as they have different setting temperatures. When it reaches room temperature, gather into a ball and keep it in a baggie or other container. I absolutely love passing any thread I use through this stuff: the thread holds its shape nicely, and the stickinesss helps to get a nice hold for your stiches. Any other uses for beeswax in leathercraft that I should know about?